Category: Knitting Machine

Singer HK100, fully serviced and tested in December 2022

Singer HK100 plastic flat-bed knitting machine was made in 1983 to supply hobbyists with less expensive and simpler knitting machines. Indeed, it is extremely easy to set up and is almost intuitive to use. It still can produce a lot of nice garments with a variety of yarns. I personally tested some cotton yarns, acrylic (Red Heart – shown in my video), and the worsted wool blend. This machine is excellent for beginners who are just trying to get a feel for what machine knitting is like.

Singer HK100 is considered a mid-gauge/bulky knitting machine. It contains 120 needles and is capable of only manual stitch and needle manipulation to create various patterns, like, tuck, slip, fair isle, cables, lace, etc. However, there are so many youtube tutorials and printed patterns that the possibilities are endless.

The machine has a unique brown/white color combination, which makes this machine very distinguishable.

What I found especially user-friendly is the yarn guide/tension mast. It simply inserts into the carriage while the yarn cone or cake is positioned on the floor. The reason I find it newbie-friendly is that even seasoned machine knitters sometimes struggle with the metal tension masts on more advanced knitting machine models. Additionally, when I knit on my flat beds, I typically don’t lift my head up to see what’s going on with the yarn on the mast and sometimes there are sudden stops if the yarn tangles. In the case of HK100 and the yarn being right in front of you, you will always see what is happening with it and you can easily catch the knots before they choke your carriage. In fact, my video shows that there was a knot in the yarn, I caught as it was about to enter the carriage, untangled it, and then continued knitting without problems. I was very pleased that I fixed the problem on the go.

I also liked very much the intuitiveness of this machine. For example, when I was a newbie on my metal flatbed machines, I always had to look in the manual as to what the position of the levers meant; what I need to do to simply slide the carriage without knitting. On Singer HK100 there are not that many levers and the only function of the levers on the side of the carriage is to NOT KNIT 😊 You will see in my video that after I made a mistake, I simply pressed the lever and slid the carriage out of the way without knitting.

Another interesting observation I made with this model is that it handles knots without too much drama 😊 Here is what I mean by that: during one of my tests, my worsted wool blend tangled a bit and formed a small loose knot. It passed through the carriage so easily that I only saw the knitted-in knot after 10 (or so) rows. On one side, I was pleased because in my other machines, a knot in the yarn means a tighter row, breakage, sudden stop… But in this case, the knot became part of the knitted fabric. In fact, the knitted-in know was visible only on the wrong side but not on the right side.

Below are the specifics on the machine, I cleaned and tested and offering for sale here and in my Etsy store:

When I just took the machine out of the box (which looked like it was the original box), it looked like it was never used. However, it was dusty. I took out all the needles and cleaned and inspected each individually. I removed the sponge bar, cleaned the “canal” for it inside the machine (right under the flatbed), and inserted a new sponge bar. (Video on how to remove a retaining for inspection, or for a needle change bar is here.

The machine comes with all major assesories, a hard copy of the manual, and three brochures on how to knit various things (all in excellent, barely-use, like-new shape).

A couple of minor things missing are:

  • The plastic gauge ruler (also called a gauge scale). The gauge scale can be easily calculated manually. In fact, I find these rulers confusing.
  • Tapestry needle, but any needle can be used. In fact, I like using colored plastic needles since they have a larger opening and are not as sharp, and easier to see if dropped. But I am also not worried if I, my kids, or my other family members including dogs step on one.
  • Ravel cord. Actually, any smooth yarn could be used as a ravel cord (also sometimes called a waste-yarn thread). I keep several long sections of various yarns on the hook next to my machines to use as a ravel cord. Some knitters don’t even use ravel cords at all.

The fact that all these minor assesories are missing, does not affect how the machine works.

One missing part that I had to fix is a row counter tripper. The machine arrived to me without it. I glued a yellow piece of plastic shown below and it stayed throughout my whole testing.

To make sure it does not break again, I packed it with lots of bubble wrap. Other solutions are possible as well (for example, inserting an L-shape piece of plastic into one of the slots on the back of the carriage).

   

I recorded a video of almost all the tests I ran on this machine. The knitted fabrics were converted into a colorful cowl/neck warmer, and a set of matching scarf, and a slouchy hat.

   

A favor: please, comment on the blanket in the background. Apparently, I used it without my son’s permission and I am now in trouble. But if he hears from my readers how cute his favorite blanket is (it is his camping blanket), I might be forgiven 😊)

Brother KH930E prepared for Mercedes in December 2022

Brother KH930E is identical to Brother KH930. The only difference is This brother knitting machine has greenish color on the carriage. Brother KH930e was an anniversary edition and this is why the difference. Brother KH930 machines are capable of electronic needle selection to knit various patterns. There is a vast library of built-in patterns, which are listed in the stitch book. Custom patterns can be entered manually into the machine. There is an optional cable that allows transferring patterns directly from a computer (through special software).

Now, let’s talk about the specifics of this particular machine.

The machine was cleaned, and every needle was inspected and tested. The whole purpose of my demonstration of knitting on a full bed is to ensure that all needles create even stitches. During the testing, I noticed that one of the needles was creating uneven stitches… I replaced it (without taking the fabric off the machine) and the problem disappeared. See my video and a picture below.

The machine did not come with many tools but I put together a set of tools. Looks like some of the tools that were actually included were added later. For example, the lid color is different from the rest of the machine. The electric cable also looks a bit worn out but works great. Cast-on comb, rails, and lace carriage look in good shape (although I did not test the lace carriage except for making sure all buttons move freely).

The minor things that are still missing:

  • Had copy o the manual; it can be found here. Manuals for KH940 and KH930 are identical.
  • Design Sheets. This is just simple graph paper to create patterns first on paper to visualize them better.
  • Caton-on cable. Any other silky or easy-to-remove yarn would do.
  • Tapestry needle – just use your favorite needle to sew garments together
  • The carriage lock was missing but it is important to have it when putting the machine into storage. It ensures that the carriage does not slide when moved or transported. I included a 3D-printed carriage lock.
  • Wax is not included.
  • Oil can be purchased here

None of these tools are critical to the machine’s functioning and allowed me to successfully test slip, touch, and fair-isle patterning on this machine. Please, refer to the video. All the buttons and levers on the carriage move freely.

I even tested the custom transfer of a pattern I created in special machine knitting software. I used a custom-made cable and transferred the pattern to the machine and then knitted it. This is what I got Couple of nerdy gifts for my nerdy friends

Now about imperfections.

One of the plastic connectors is missing so the model tag is often sliding.

The case lid and the lower part of the machine case have several scratches and dents. Needless to say, it is kind of expected from a 30+-year-old machine and these dings absolutely do not affect how the machine functions.

The most obvious problem is the crack near the switch. But the whole time I knitted on this machine, this did not cause any problems. I am going to cover it with masking tape so the dirt and lint do not get inside too much.

Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia:  https://mightyknittymachines.com/brother-kh930-electronic-knitting-machine/

Below are the items I knitted while testing this machine.

Reversible neon yellow/green, purple, and blue fair isle cowls/neckwarmers.

 

My biggest reward and satisfaction will be you making lots more beautiful items.

KH581 cleaned/fixed/tested in November 2022

MESSAGE ME AT FACEBOOK/COMFIKNITS IF YOU DONT SEE A PAYPAL PURCHASE BUTTON.

THIS MACHINE IS ALREADY SOLD….CHECK MY OTHER POSTINGS AS THE NEW MACHINES ARE COMING 1-2 TIMES A MONTH

A little bit about this model: Brother KH581 is an 8-push button machine. It first appeared on the market in 1969. This particular model was probably made specifically for Japan as the carriage has Japanese markings only (although this is the first and only KH581 I’ve seen so far in real life). It is similar to other eight push buttons Brother machines sold under models KH 588, KH561, KH560, KH585, although I have not tested those yet and there might be some minor differences. This model comes in pretty blue color and even some the assesories have blue tints. I find this color very attractive and unusual.

The standard setup comes with a lace carriage and rails. I think that is the first model to have both of these in its standard setup.

A big advancement of this model over its 4-push button knitting machines (like KH551) is the presence of a whole “pattern center”. It consists of familiar push buttons and a lever with a wrench but also of a slide indicator and a reverse knob. The manual is very clear about what they are but it still took me some time of playing with them to get what it does. Once I figured it out, it was almost like an EUREKA moment to me! I, once again, just was amazed how smart Japanese engineers are.

So, in regular 4-push buttons machines, we need to select the buttons (and then unpush them) every time we need to select certain needles. In 8-push button machines, we select the needles once and then the reverse knob and we simply tell the patterning center by how much the needle selection needs to be shifted. Once I got a hang of it, I was blown away by how simple it became to memorize your needle selection. In fact, you don’t memorize – you simply shift it. Also, excellent pattern charts in the manual explain it really well. Just don’t be discouraged by a learning curve and experiment with the swatch. You will see in my video that while knitting the butterfly pattern (referred to in the manual as “holding” pattern, I selected the buttons only once at the beginning. The rest of the needle selection was done by only turning the reverse and slide knobs. I also feel that this helps to reduce wear and tear on the buttons: the spring indeed will loose their strength from constant pushing and unpushing.

The manual shows how to work the most basic patterns. Additional patterns can be found in here.

The machine setup is very easy and almost intuitive. I still recommend following the instructions.

Pros and cons of KH581 in comparison to other brother knitting machines.

Pros (in no particular order):

+ Much simpler needle selection process especially for complex patterns, where different needles need to be selected during each row.

+ Lighter than more modern machines. Thus, it would be ideal for those with weaker upper bodies.

+ Relatively compact: needle bed is narrower than its younger counterparts.

+ Excellent for hand-knitters who want to transition to machine knitting. Often hand knitters are seeking for more even stitches or for less wear on their hand and finger joints when knitting every stitch manually, yet they don’t want to give up the pleasure and satisfaction of manipulating stitches. I had several customers who bought push -button machines from me for this exact reason.

+ Excellent for beginners, crocheters and knitters, as it is not overwhelming as electronic and punch card machines might seem at first.

+ Since the machine is mostly mechanical, not many things can go wrong. Just keep this machine free of dust (which can be achieved with regular vacuuming and sponge bar replacement) and free of moisture.

+ Pretty blue color which makes this machine stand out.

+ All tools are interchangible with other 4.5 mm gauge machines and can be easily purchased new or used.

+ Carriage is very easy to move. I was able to do it with just one hand (but it also depends on a correct combination of yarn and tension).

+ Matching ribbers are available and can still be found on the used market. In fact, I am testing a matching ribber (Brother KR580) right now.

Cons (in no particular order):

  • I was not a big fan of the tension mast being stuck inside the tool holder…
  • Replacement needles can only be found on a used market. Nobody makes them anymore. I have plenty or replacement available in my shop.
  • Fair isle knitting might not be as easy as on punch-card and electronic knitting machines.
  • Hand-manipulations of stitches and keeping track of which buttons to push and which levers to turn might be overwhelming for some knitters.

About this machine in particular:

It knitted very well and handled sport yarn, acrylic and wool, at different tensions really well. I did not feel that the machine was sensitive to yarn tension, which was pleasant and allowed me to relax while knitting.

I inspected every needle on this machine to make sure the bed has only good and well-functioning needles. I also inspected the stitches they make (this is why I run all my knitting demos on a full bed). I replaced a sponge bar and cleaned the machine.

Tests on a full bed confirmed that everything works great. I tested stockinet, slip-stitch, tuck-stitch and tuck with hold patterning. Check out my video to see this machine in action on a full bed. Below are pictures showing the swatches with patterns I tested.

I did not test the lace carriage but I thoroughly cleaned it and ensured that all buttons, knobs and levers moved freely.

All major assesories are included with this particular machine except for:

  • A hard copy of a manual. A scanned pdf copy can be downloaded for free here or here (this particular manual is the exact copy of the hard copy I used to learn this machine).
  • The lid to the storage box – it arrived to me just shuttered. It probably weakened due to its age and got cracked during transport.
  • Parafin (or wax) is not included. The original one was too crumbled to include it. When I tested this machine on three different yarns, including 100% wool and 100% acrylic, I did not feel I needed it. There are two groups of knitters with regard to using wax: those who swear by it and those who care less. You decide which one you are for yourself
  • A bottle with oil is also not included. The one that came with this machine was too dark to use it. I recommend Gun oil. A lot of knitters use it and I use it to clean and oil all my machines.
  • Cast-on thread is also not included but any smooth yarn of the correct thickness can be used instead.

None of these missing assesories affect the functioning of the machine.

This machine was probably meant for the Japanese market. Thus, the wording on the carriage is in Japanese. But you will very quickly learn that the two button on the left-hand side are for tuck and the two buttons on the right-hand side are for “slip” patterns. The position of these buttons is standard across all Japanese knitting machines.

I also felt that the buttons on this machine needed an extra strong push to remain in their pushed position ( I had to do it with my thumb, which is stronger, than an index finger). Just keep that in mind while playing with buttons.

I always convert the fabrics I create while testing the machines into cowls/neck warmers, which I then donate to local charities. Here is what I got while testing this machine:

Overall, I was pretty impressed with this model and this machine. I so wanted to play and experiment with how many different patterns I can come up with I hope you will enjoy experimenting with it too.

KX350 cleaned and tested in November 2022

Brother KX350 is a plastic bed, mid-gauge, knitting machine. It was my first ever flat bed knitting amchine and I am so glad that it was because otherwise, now knowing how capricious other machines can be, I would not have become an avid machine knitter.

This particular model was cleaned. The spong bar is new. Needles were checked.

It comes with the original box, although the box is somewhat beat up. The storofoam inside the box is a bit worn but clean and still holds the machine and the assesories well.

The set includes all standard assesories shown below. You can start knitting right away! It is super easy to setup up. The manual is written very well and is easy to follow. If you are a visual learner, a video tape includes additional instructions.

The machine sounds a bit loud. My husband calls it an old type writer. There is not much more to say about this particular machine as it behaved excellently during the full bed tests (knitting stockinette) and that all levers on the carriage move freely.

It is a wonderful machine for a beginner, and I am glad it is going to a loving home.

Read more about Brother KX350 model’s pros and cons in my previous blogs.

Flat Bed Brother KX350 knitting machine, cleaned and tested in October 2022

Brother KH 551 knitting machine refurbished in October 2022

This is my Brother KH551 machine tested and cleaned in October 2022.

The machine passed all my tests. I tested how needles move during their push-button selection and tested slip/part and tuck stitch patterning. I tested how this machine knits on a full bed using somewhat challenging yarns: boucle, fuzzy (mohair-like), and yarn with boucle-like specs. All knitted fabrics looked beautiful.

I installed a new sponge bar, checked ALL needles, ran several tests on them to make sure all latches are moving freely, and replaced all damaged needles with new (aka, from old stock) or with refurbished ones. After all this, I typically knit on the full bed to ensure that I did not miss anything while inspecting the needles. If needles do not knit properly (which I judge by the defects in the knitted fabric), I replace them.

I did not see any defects in the fabric – please, refer to my video for details.

The machine came to me with several accessories missing and without a hard copy manual.

  • The hard copy of the manual can be found here;
  • The toolbox which stores all accessories did not come with this machine. I placed all the tools in a bag and securely attached it to the bed for easier transport during shipping
  • I typically discard the oil/grease that comes with these old machines because of their age. I recommend using gun oil, which can be purchased here.
  • The small bag that stores the needles had to be thrown away. It is simply a container that holds them and is not critical
  • The sinker plat yarn hangers did not come with this machine. See page 19 in the manual on what these are needed for. I feel that their use is pretty specific – for plating. I consider myself an intermediate machine knitter and I am yet to learn this plating technique. I also feel that these yarn hangers can be imitated by a simple paper clip.

All knitting machines have their own characters and this one was no exception. I felt that it is somewhat more sensitive to tension or maybe I was just testing it with a challenging yarn. So, I discovered that it liked slightly more than average tension. I had to hang the weights to the corners of the knitted panel every other 10-15 rows or so. I needed to pay A LOT OF attention to the tension in the mast and adjust the tension on the dial. In general, on all machines, all projects will require several tests and swatches to determine the best yarn/tension combination.

Because this yarn was a bit more sensitive to tension, I am including complimentary claw weights (see the picture below, they are typically NOT included with a standard KH551 set).

Let’s talk about the imperfections of this machine:

The needle selection tools also had seen their days. But they still feel smooth to the touch.

My video shows some minor bents on the case.

The most annoying imperfection to me was a twitching row counter. I tried to fix it, oil it, and replace parts – to no avail. I feel that the plastic rotating gears wore over time and make the numbers twitch a bit when transitioning from 9 to 10 and from 19 to 20. I did not notice this twitching for other transitions. The operator simply needs to nudge the row counter during these transitions to keep the correct row count.

Overall, I would definitely consider having KH551 in my machine collection. It is a sturdy and hard-working machine. I hope its new owner will think so too.

Read more about this model in my previous posts on Brother KH551.

http://thoughtsandknits.com/2021/11/01/my-first-restored-and-tested-kh551-knitting-machine/

Brother KH551 – my second one

http://thoughtsandknits.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=1644&action=edit

Brother KH 930E, my second one, restored/cleaned/tested in October 2022

What was done with this machine in terms of cleaning and refurbishing:

  • Included tools that were missing (some are still missing-please read below). All major parts and assesories are included.
  • Cleaned outside
  • Opened the lid and cleaned under the lids using only isopropanol around the electronics
  • Inserted absolutely new sponge and a retaining bar (it is NOT a refurbished retaining/sponge bar). So, it should last longer.
  • Inspected all needs – run 2-3 visual inspections under different “angles”. Replaced all defective needles with brand-new ones.

All assesories are included except for:

  • Pattern book (it can be downloaded from here)
  • A hard copy of the manual (it can be downloaded here. The pdf cover page states that the manual is for KH940 but KH940 and KH930/930e are identical in their operations. The only difference between KH940 and KH930/930e is the size of the electronic storage memory: KH940 has more memory.)
  • Design sheets (they are simply graph paper; if you REALLY need it, any graph paper would do)
  • Tapestry needle (any plastic or metal needle would do)
  • Oil (the container that came with the machine was empty; but regardless – I recommend using newer/fresher oil. I typically use this gun oil)
  • Wax (the one that came with the machine was too old and crumbled)

Here are the pictures of all accessories. They all fit into a small build-in compartment (see the two left-hand side photos below).

The hole in the carriage handle is to attach the machine to the motor. The previous owner made this hole, not me. I don’t own such a motor!!!

Tests performed on this machine:

  • Tested needle selection – works great!
  • Tested on a full bed tuck, slip/part and fair isle – all worked great.
  • Tested file transfer – work great! Knitted a small item from this custom pattern.

Read more about pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia: https://mightyknittymachines.com/brother-kh930-electronic-knitting-machine/

Additional notes on this machine:

  1. During tuck knitting, I always check the tuck wheels to make sure that they are always in their working position (pushed forward). I reach with my hand under the sinker plate while it is still on the bed and check it. When they accidentally slid back, the stitches move slightly forward on the needles and the nest row does not form correctly and a lot of looping occurs. So, this is why in the video you will see me constantly checking under the sinker plate. Once I figures out what to look for in my stitches (namely, not too much moving forward on the needles), I stopped checking these wheels/brushes. I also feel that if this problem occurs, the operator should play a bit with the tension (on the tension mast and on the tension dial) of their yarn. Also, tuck-stitching requires an optimized yarn tension and weight combination.
  2. The machine is somewhat sensitive to the yarn tension. Honestly, they all are so I recommend when starting a new yarn to play with tension on a small swatch before making a garment and knitting fast.
  3. The eight pins where the transfer cable gets inserted are fragile. Please be careful.
  4. Always turn off and even unplug this machine when not using its patterning capabilities. There are stories about motherboards being damaged if left for too long in ON condition. If this happens, replacement boards are available for purchase from somewhere in Honk Kong (but it is a reliable source).

The transfer cable is NOT included. I used my personal one.

Enjoy!

Flat Bed Brother KX350 knitting machine, cleaned and tested in October 2022

Let me introduce a freshly cleaned and tested Brother KX350 knitting machine. It is a plastic flat bed knitting machine with 132 needles positioned 7 mm apart. So, it is considered a mid-gauge. But it handles bulky yarns (medium worsted) pretty well. I was able to easily knit Red Heart Super Saver yarn on this machine.

It is extremely straightforward how to assembly and setup p the machine. The manual is written very well.

The machine is very light-weight, which makes it easy to handle.IT comes with all assesories including a video tape (if you are into that kind of things )

 

About this specific machine:

All worked great. The box shows some tear and wear.

Pros and cons not mentioned earlier:

(+) The sinker plates is NOT detachable, which prevents it from being lost.

(+) Simple and straightforward to use.

(+) Includes heavy-duty combs, which act as cast-on combs and weights at the same time.

(+) Very clear manual with some instructions on knitting garments and other knitting techniques.

(+) Not as loud as metal beds when knits

(+) There is a stopping mechanism to prevent the carriage from accidentally sliding when knitting too vigorously

(+) Numbers for the needles are written right on the bed. I like it a lot since nobody has to worry about misplacing the strip

(+) putting the machine back to the box is so EASY! (especially comparing with the metal beds with heavy lids). All assesories are stored in their designated places inside a sterofoam.

Cons:

(-) plastic bed (which to me does not seem to be a con at all…. I am not worried about rust. I am also not worried about plastic being brittle and discolored if I keep the machine in the box when not in use)

(-) comes in a carboard box, which is not a bid turn off for me anyways…

(-) the machine has only basic patterning capabilities. But since it knits regular yarns (those that you can buy in Michael’s and Joan Fabric) – no patterning is needed since you can get self-striping and variegated yarns that provide a lot of interesting color combination and self-patterning. .

 

Read more on pros and cons on this machine in my previous article about this machine.

 

While testing this particular machine, I knitted using medium worsted yarn the cowl/neck warmer below.

The original box has some minor staining. The machine will be shipped in original box covered with brown shipping paper.

Overall, in my opinion, this machine is perfect for a beginning machine knitting. You will get a feel of what it is – machine knitting. You will not kill your back trying to carry this machine. You can still knit a lot of various patterns, however, they will require a lot of hand-manipulations. Which is again great for people who LOVE hand-knitting and just need to have knitting with more even stitches and faster.

Watch this machine in action in my video blog.

Brother KH260 refurbished in September 2022

Brother KH260 are wonderful and highly desired machines. They habe 110 needles, spaced 9 mm apart from each other).

This distance and large needles makes this machine “bulky”. Brother KH260 can handle a large variety of thicker yarns, including worsted. I tried double-thrded boucle yarn and it ahndled it well as well. I was especially happy about it because I love textures yarn, especially boucle, but not many machines can handle them.

 

What I did on this machine:

  • Removed all needles, cleaned them and inspected individually and then during knitting on a full bed.
  • Oiled carriage and ensured that all levers and kbod ove frely and do not mis-function during knitting
  • Cleaned the bed and gently cleaned the plastic parts

Overall the machine was in good shape before I started cleaning it. The case does not have any major bends/scratches. Only minor ones.

This machine came with all its assesories with some minor exeptions.

The card clips were missing – I cinluded two paris of new ones (small yellow plastic things in the picture below).

The assesories that are missing from the machine and wll not be included are:

  • Oil canister. I do not include old oil on purpose. Please, get a fresh/new oil. The recommended by many machine kntiters is Hoppe’s Elite Gun Oil
  • No ravel cord is included but any smooth strong yarn can be used.
  • Place card holder was missing from the set. As you can see in the video, I was not even using it and the cardreder worked well. However, any straight or bent hand-knitting needles will work. I included one.
  • -some manuals state that the machine comes wth 20-count punch card set. The hard copy of the manual that came with this machine lists only 15 cards. Indeed, a set containing only 15 cards came with it.

 

All tools fit into a tool box: a buil-tin compartment on the main bed.

This tool box is excellent to store assesories whlie the machine is not in use. The sinker plate, tuck-brushes, punchcard, tension rod and the row counter also fit wonderfully into the lid of the case when not in use.

The machine size is larger than all other single-bed flat-bed machines. The bed is winder and slitly longer.

The machine performed wonderfully with slip, tuck and fair isle patterning on full bed. I did not even have my usual trial/error starts. I did nothave to putz around too much with tension and the right number of hanging weights…. I was very pleased how well everything went.

I used this machine to knit simple stockinet, fair-isle, slip and tuck-stitch patterning. You can see those in my video. Below are the things I made while testing this machine and filming my demo.

Cowl/hoodie from a variegated dark red yarn using slip-stitch. Reversible/double sided.

 

Cowl/hoodie with a matching hat. Hoodie was knitted using a self-striping yarn and tuck-stitch patterning. Can be worn as reversible. The hat was knitted using simple stockinet. The ribbing was made by a mock-1×1 ribbing.

Cowl/hoodie knitted using fair isle and custom-made punch card. It can be worn as double-sided/reversible.

 

I did not really find a lot of cons for this machine. Maybe simple specifics of the machine which make it to stand out.

So, pros and cons are:

Pros:

+ Carriage (despite being heavy) is still relatively easy to move especially in KC mode (attached to a timing belt)

+ capable of handling thicker and textures (typically challenging) yarns

+ accessories, including needles, are still easy to find.

+ straightforward manual

+ because of the usage of thicker yarn, creates a texture similar to hand-knitting. I personally love those large stitches. Makes me instantly feel warm and cozy. The thicker yarn when knitted on loose tension also make the knitted fabric very soft and moldable (not stiff as on some standard machines).

 

Cons:

– Larger than other machines, including some other bulky models. It is also heavier.

– Expensive as they are highly desirable.

– carriage levers prone to sticking, especially when not in use for a long time. This might result in improper needle selection. But can be done with regular maintenance/care.

– requires more weights than other machines very likely because of heavier yarns.

– tuck brushes need to be installed. Some machines (mostly standard) already have built-in tuck-brushes on sinker plate. This is not really a con but just one more thing to keep track of and not to misplace.

 

Overall, machine knitters all over the world call Brother KH 260 a working horse. And I am in complete agreement!!

Singer 360K for Philip

Overview and run down of Singer 360 K for Philip

Test performed: full bed stockinet, slip, fair isle, 1×1 mock ribbing.

Sport yarn is the best. Thicker (e.g., worsted yarn – best on every other neelde).

I did not extensively test the knit leaders but all knobs and levels work.

The machine came with some assesories and some I added. I added a set of punch cards. The set is brand new but differs a bit from the original Singer/Studio set. The machine came with some knit leader sheets, and they will be included.

The overveiw is below.

Missing are:

  • Oil canister. I do not include old oil on purpose. Please, get a fresh/new oil. The recommended by many machine kntiters is Hoppe’s Elite Gun Oil
  • Only one ravel cord in included but any smooth strong yarn can be used
  • only one set of point cams (number 15) and yarn separators were included. These are usd for single-motif knitting. This is somewhat advanced technique and if you are proficient enough with just one single motif (two sets are needed to knit two single motifs) you will know by then where to get additional sets. To be honest, I tried single single-motif and it was so challenging that I simply gave up. It is challenging by all the small details needed to kniw a single motif. There are other machines to do it much easier. Plus, I like motifs throughout the whole bed anyways… But with just one set of point cams and yarn separators you will still be able to knit just one single motif.

     

All tools fit into a built-in storage.

The machine itself is in great shape.

There are couple of impercets on the plastic and on the cover.

They are:

  • Masking tape stain on the tool box lid

Some writing on the carriage. I wiped it but did not rub too much to avoid damaging already old and potentially brittle plastic.

 

The case and the lid have minor scratches and minor bend. The most prominent is the red stain on the lid.

 

The strip with numbers has some minor staining (seen on video).

 

Video just for you:

 

I also recommend getting this small cast-on comb. (I am not affiliated with them). It makes the cast on so much easier for beginners…

 

Manual and recommended brochures specifically for this machine are here:

(but keep in mind that I am sending you generic punch cards – they might not match the numbers shown in the third brochure).

https://mkmanuals.com/knitmaster-360-260-knitting-machine-manual.html

https://mkmanuals.com/knitmaster-360-260-operation-knitting-machine-manual.html

https://mkmanuals.com/knitmaster-360-260-pattern-book-knitting-machine-manual.html

Please read my other post on overall pros and cons of Singer/Studio knitting machines and 360K model in general.

http://thoughtsandknits.com/2022/09/04/360-for-laura-cleaned-in-august-2022/

http://thoughtsandknits.com/2022/08/07/studio-360-k-memomatci-reported-in-august-2022/

Second Singer Studio 360 Mod restored/cleaned/refurbished in March 2022

http://thoughtsandknits.com/2021/10/13/my-first-singer-360-memomatic-360k/

 

Some pictures as I am putting the whole package together.

Brother KH551 tested and cleaned in September 2022

Preface: If I had to describe this machine with just one word – it would be FLAWLESS!!!

But, first, a little bit of history. Brother KH551 knitting machines were introduced to the market in the 1960s and were the first machine with somewhat semi-automatic patterning capabilities. In this machine, there are 4 buttons, that you push to prepare for the needle selection and then rotate the knob (using the wrench) to select the corresponding needles. It is an excellent machine for beginning knitters. I feel that it would be also great for people who are not quite yet ready to give up hand-knitting but want to have more even stitches and a bit faster progress…. Brother KH551 is also lighter than other machines mostly because its bed is narrower. The carriage is also significantly lighter and I could easily move it with just one hand.

The machine comes with heavy-duty cast-on combs that eliminate the need for any other weights. As you can see from my video, I did not attach any additional weights and had only one small problem with an uneven stitch which is amazing considering no additional weights and a rather difficult (with specs and boucle) yarn.

Not the whole machine is light, but the carriage is also light and small and is ideal for somebody with small hands and not a lot of upper body strength. Its lightweight makes it pretty portable, compared to other machines. The machine is capable of plain old knitting with hand manipulations of the needles. But also is capable of semi-automatic needle selection. The petiteness of the machine also makes it easier to store when not in use. I like the three-thread tension mast and a yarn clip in from of the tension mast rod. I love the three-horned tension section of the mast (not just a triangle) where each color of yarn can be inserted individually. However, the tension on the second and middle tension disk only has two settings (although they might depend on the very right one).

One feature of this model that I have not observed in others: There is some kind of protective lever at the end of the bed because the machine does not slide very easily from the end of the bed. One has to work really hard to “accidentally” pull it off the machine. In the video, you will see me seemingly struggling with the carriage towards the bed’s end (when knitting on a full bed only). But the knitting itself did not struggle: I believe it was just that protective mechanism in action.

The setup includes all major accessories. A couple of minor things are missing:

  • Sinker plate yarn hanger. The machine came with only one. However, when or if or both you decide to knit using the plating technique (see p. 18-19 in the manual), you can just make a similarly shaped hanger out of a heavy-duty paper clip). On other machines, when I knitted multicolor slip- and tuck-patterns, I was just leaving the thread on the side of the machine to keep it out of the way…Regardless of the technique you chose, the absence of this part does not affect the machine’s functioning and you can still do a LOT of various things with it using a variety of techniques.
  • I did not want to include the old container with oil because I did not want to risk putting such old oil onto this machine. I recommend getting a Hoppe’s gun oil (this is what I used to clean the needles and lightly oil the machine) and oil only lightly on the parts mentioned in the manual.

This machine comes with two brochures: a hard copy of the manual (which is in great shape) and a knitter’s guide (which contains techniques, a bunch of how-tos advice, and a couple of examples on garment knitting). I used this brochure when I knitted my sweater last year (using another KH551). The manual is also available online but the scanned copy is not of great quality.

I tested this machine and other KH551 and I was very pleasantly surprised by how well it handles potentially challenging yarns. This machine handled boucle yarn without any problems. In fact, I did not even have to restart the knitting of this shawl. Check out a pretty pathetic attempt of me modeling it below. I later added decorative edging to the shawl. I found a yarn that matched the color of the tiny yarn specs (boucle), made a cord out of it, and then attached it to the edges. I actually like how it turned out. Light yet warm garments are the most favorite types of garments for my constantly-cold petite body.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A couple of other things I liked about KH551: Love the small container for tools. I like that it is so easy to remove and position onto the bed. I also love a special container that stores all the tools when not in use. The table clips are somewhat different than the younger models. It is first screwed onto the case and then onto the table.

I removed all the needles, cleaned them and inspected them all individually. I then knitted on a full bed machine, which helps me to identify faulty needles even more: when there is a propagating error or a flaw in the knitting that appears in the same place, it is definitely due to faulty needles.

A couple of disclaimers about this machine. The case (lid and the bottom part) has several very small dents (hey – it is over 50 years old after all! It is like us having age spots and wrinkles). The table clamp attachments (on the bottom portion of the case) were rusty and I cleaned them and painted those areas with rustoleum to slow down or even prevent further rusting to extend the life of this wonderful machine. It appeared to be the only place, where I observed rust on the main bed. There is some rust on the lid – at the ends where the metal ends touch the cover panel.

I replaced the sponge bar and cleaned the machine, carriage and sinker plate from dust/lint.

The row counter is easy to operate: also shows how many rows remained and how many rows are current. The numbers do not jump uncontrollably as in a couple of other machines I tested when you are trying to re-zero the ones- or tens positions. Basically, the numbers do not slip when you turn the wrong way. This type of row counter is actually my most favorite out of all other machines I tested.

To summarize, below are the lists of pros and cons for the Brother KH551:

Pros:

+ Carriage is very light and slides very easily

+ The bed is narrower than other machines – which makes it more compact

+ …and makes the machine lighter than other similar models

+ relatively easy deep cleaning – all parts are solid and straightforward to insert/assemble/disassemble

+ The needle count is engraved on the bed – so these slippery and constantly in-the-way paper liners showing the needle count won’t annoy you by constantly sliding and getting lost.

+ Threading the yarn is a bit more intuitive and straightforward in my opinion

+ built-in capabilities for 3 different yarns

+ the hard case is a combination of fake leather and plastic, which makes it not only look neater and nicer than other machines but also made durable. The case shows absolutely no discoloration despite the age of this machine.

Cons:

  • The push-button mechanism helps to select the needles but you need to change the needles selected quite often (basically turn the ratchet tool to SET and OFF). It might be tedious and you need to keep track of the correct order. When I tested this machine, I got into this zen-like rhythm that helped no prevent mistakes…
  • Some might find the machine too simple – yes, it has only limited patterning capabilities. However, with manual needle selection and yarn manipulation, the possibilities are endless.
  • I discovered some typos in the manual when I was testing the patterns. I vaguely remember that I’ve seen an addendum to correct the errors but I cannot find it now. Maybe it was for another machine… Just keep it in mind when you try the patterns from the manual and they are not working.

A little bit more about potential typos in the manual. I tried at least a dozen of times to knit the patterns on p. 33: a purl-like stitch on the left and another one on the right. The purl-like was either dropping stitches on the whole swatch or was tangling the yarn so bad that I had to start all over again multiple times…I do not exclude a complete operator failure….But: when I started reviewing the pattern on the right-hand side (the anonymous one on p. 33), I noticed some inconsistencies. I was still able to knit it but the pattern did not look like in the manual: see the picture below (the very top swatch) of what I got and compare it to the manual – two big differences. Well, at least the swatch did not fall off the bed like in the case of the “purl-like” pattern attempt. But that pattern (on the right-hand side in the manual) definitely had typos: Look at the schematics: it shows TUCK but the description writes PART. I vaguely remember seeing an addendum to one of the manuals of the machines I refurbished last year… Maybe the purrlike stitch pattern on the left also had typos/errors and this is why I could not figure it out… But I successfully knitted herringbone (not shown in my video – sorry), seed stitch A, seed stitch B (pics below and on a video), and diamond design (pattern I in the book on p28)….I then knitted these patterns on the whole bed and converted what I got into a hood/neck warmer/cowl…

Not much else to say about this machine left, other than it was an extremely pleasant experience working on it. Indeed, now, after failed attempts to knit a “purl-like” pattern, I want to go back and experiment with all possible knob and lever combinations to see what other UNKNOW YET patterns I will come up with.