Category: Bed type

Studio mod. 327 knitting machine for Ethan

Studo mod. 327 knitting machine is a standard-gauge machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart. There are a lot of resources on how to use this and similar knitting machines (such as Studio mod. 326, Silver SK327, etc.). Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The post below is dedicated to a specific machine serviced and tested in my shop in May 2026.

Maintenance performed on this machine:

  • I replaced the side racks with new ones
  • The knitradar was tested: the paper moves freely, and all the knobs and levers move freely too.
  • The row counter works great.
  • All needles were removed, cleaned, and inspected. Bad needles and those with sticky latches were replaced with new stock generic needles for similar machines (read more on that below).
  • The needles were also tested during the knitting on the full bed: all stitches formed beautifully (see the video of these tests). More on full-bed tests below.
  • The sponge bar was replaced. I recommend getting a very thin medical tape: if you need to remove it to replace the needles, the tape I applied to the replaced spongy strip might tear.
  • The case was opened and deep-cleaned. The needlebed was cleaned from various angles as well.
  • I opened the carriage and cleaned the mechanisms inside. Inspected and cleaned patterning drums. They move freely.

This Studio mod. 327 will come with all major and almost all minor accessories.

The missing accessories are:

  • Oil: use Hoppe’s gun oil available on Amazon
  • A pair of E point cams (read more on that below)
  • Cast-on thread: Any silky and strong thread will work
  • Name paper: it typically accompanies a machine to write your name on it

A hard copy of the manual will not be included. However, a manual for the Singer 327 machine is available online for free. However, the manual for the 328 model (on the same website) is of a bit better quality. Use that one as well.

“New Magic cams” are not from the original mod. 327 machine, but from one of the later models. It does not have M and E positions. Thus, point cams E are not included (well, those did not come with this machine anyway). But I am including an additional pair of point cams M (the later models have two pairs of them).

On the subject of the magic cams: The manual describes very poorly how to use the “magic cams”, cams E and cams M as well as yarn separators. Look on the same website for a manual for Singer/Studio 360 machine for two reasons: it explains the usage of magic cams for single motif knitting much better. And also because I do not have the original Magic Cams for the Studio mod. 327 machine.

So, according to the (poorly-written) manual: Studio mod. 327 comes with “new magic cams”, point cams M and point cams E. Point cams M are more standard and come with almost all Singer/Studio machines. However, these point cams E are unicorns. In fact, it was my first encounter with these point cams E while researching this machine. I found a pair of point cams E on eBay, but since I don’t have “new magic cams” with markers M and E, it is better to use those. So, only regular, point cams M are included. So, the single motif cams are those for other models, but I am sure they will work with this Studio mod. 327 as well. I attached them to the carriage (see the image above), and the whole assembly moved well on the needlebed.

I did not replace the slightly bent plastic round covers on the sinker plate side wheels (a picture below showing a scratch on the lid shows one of the wheels: they are not in horrible shape at all!). Those bend so easily that they will very likely bend during your first tests. But I am including an extra pair of these plastic circles (they are very easy to replace). All the tests were performed with these slightly bent plastic brush covers. The extra brushes (the manual says they are for tuck, but I knitted tuck without them) are brand new (new stock). I knitted tuck-stitch without them because this is how the sinker plate was set up. But honestly, these brushes come off so frequently that knitters remove them just not to deal with them.

The punchcard rod to hold the punchcards is the original. However, I did not use it during the tests shown in the video. Thus, its use is optional. One pair of punchcard clips is the original one (orange), and the second (green one) is new but old stock.

The extra replacement needles are new stock. They are slightly different than the original needles: longer by ~1 mm, and the concave part is slightly different. However, a few of the same needles were placed into the needlebed already, and they knitted beautifully without problems.

All minor accessories are stored inside a stand-alone box, although the box is not the original box for the Studio mod. 327 model, but still from Silver Reed-manufactured machines. All major accessories are stored in the lid.

The punchcard set is generic, new stock. But it is generic to Brother machines. It can still be used for the Studio mod. 327 knitting machine. The minor difference is in which row the punchcard readers start reading and knitting the pattern. I am working on a detailed article on that, but briefly: align the punchcard readers with two rows below the line. Other words: at the punchcard reader edge, you will see two rows and then the line. For simple repeat patterns, it does not even matter where to start. But for a single motif it is. So, if in doubt: swatch-swatch-swatch.

In addition, as a thank you for your patience, I am including several custom punchcards (a couple of hand-[unched and a couple of professionally cut from Knittery) and a set of blank punchcards (old stock but in great shape).

The knit radar sheets are original and still in great shape. However, while I was recording the functioning of the knit leader, I damaged one sheet (the row counter tripper ran into the sheet and ripped it: something to pay attention to). I am still including it: it can be tapes/glued. But I am also including a blank (on one side) graded sheet as a replacement. Additionally, knit radar sheets for generic/common shapes are available online if you need to print extra. The stitch scales are original ones, but only the “gauge scale” and “stitch scale” rulers are included. The “centre scale” rulers are not included (I do not have a set), but my understanding is that the “centre scale” rulers are more than enough.

The little knob covers for the punchcard reader are 3D printed replacements. The table clamps look like new stock, too (they came with the machine).

The carriage lock is the original as well.

A couple of things to pay attention to:

  • Push the carriage a bit down on the ends of the needlebed. I experienced these issues with my other Silver Reed-made knitting machines
  • If knitting on the full bed while using the knit leader sheets, pay attention to the row counter tripper so it does not rip the knit leader sheets.
  • The rubber end rails often fall apart and crumble (with time). If they do and if you do not knit on the full bed (on all needles), you do not even have to replace them. There is a way to move the carriage and avoid mispatterning: just do not let the drums get off the rails. So, move the carriage slowly at the end of the needlebed. But with the rubber end rails, there is nothing to worry about for at least several years
  • cover your machine with a sheet or a curtain to avoid sun damage and dust.

Imperfections:

There are some scratches around the knit leader wheel and on it as well. The function is not affected.

The lid has some minor scratches and bumps, but otherwise is in great shape (especially considering the age of the machine).

The case itself is in great shape, but a couple of stains, scratches, and bumps are present as well.

Here is the serial number for this machine, which I will remove after you receive and inspect the machine.

Happy Knitting!

Brother Profile 551 (KH551) knitting machine serviced and tested in my shop in May 2026

Brother Profile 551 knitting machine is an amazing miracle of Japanese engineering. This knitting machine has 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart, and all mechanical patterning capabilities. Read more about the pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of this post is dedicated to a specific Brother Profile KH551 serviced and tested in my shop in May 2016.

I performed the usual maintenance on this machine as I always do: removed all the needles, cleaned and inspected them. The bent needles were discarded and replaced with new ones. Some needles were polished until they were smooth. To further ensure that all needles formed correct stitches, I knitted on the full needlebed (see the video). I knitted stockinet, hold-, tuck-, and slip/part stitches, and all went really well! In addition, read my short article on tuck stitch if you experience problems with tuck stitch.

The needlebed, the carriage, and the sinker plate are in good shape, especially considering the age of this machine. See below some cosmetic imperfections on the carriage. The carriage runs very smoothly. Suppose you feel it does not run smoothly, oil (as shown in the manual), and reattach the sinker plate. The needle selection and the buttons work great, too. Also, at the end of my video, I show how to correctly activate the needle selection mechanism.

The machine will come with all necessary accessories. A lot of original accessories with a couple of minor exceptions. The S-shaped table clamps are original, but I had to cover them with a layer of Rustoleum. The transfer tools are original as well and are even in the original case (a better picture is below with a row counter). A set of claw weights is not part of the original setup, but I am including a pair because it is a very handy accessory to have. They are brand new (new stock).

The 1×1/0 needle selection ruler is original, but the other two are plastic replacements from new stock.

The tension mast and the cast-on combs are in great shape, especially considering their age.

The carriage lock is original.

The ratchet tool is a replacement. I used it during all the tests shown in the video. The needle picker is a 3D-printed copy and works well. The cleaning brush is a generic replacement. Not sure if the tapestry needle is the original, but it came with the machine. The wax is a bit crumbled, but if you need it, it will provide a good starting point. As a thank you for your patience and an apology for not having all other original tools in stock, I am including an adjustable needle transfer tool. I think it is original (not the new-stock generic), but the sticker is no longer attached to it.

The accessories that are missing are: the toolbox and its lid, the tool holder, and yarn hangers (easy to replace with a paper clip), and machine oil (use Hoppe’s gun oil available on Amazon).

I included a replacement needle indicator strip. The original ones that come with KH551 machines are transparent. The strip that I included is not new, but from one of the older machines to complement the vintage look of this machine.

The case and the lid are in great shape. Read below about some minor cosmetic imperfections.

About imperfections:

The tension dial on the carriage has some dents. It, however, still works well and provides reliable tension.

The carriage handle has a minor crack. It is, at the moment, the best handle I have to offer. I’ve seen handles in much worse shape, and they were still working fine. When attaching the handle onto the carriage, screw both sides at the same rate: a couple of turns on the left, then a couple of turns on the right, etc. The same with unscrewing/removing.

The raw counter is original, but the front panel had a crack. I secured it with super glue. The row counter otherwise works well (see the demo at the end of the video).

The lid and the case have some very minor stains and dents. Some of them are shown below.

Apparently, the handle has an opening in the metal cover. First, I thought it was a defect, but all other machines have the same feature. So, no alarm here.

None of these imperfections affected any functioning of the machine.

Happy knitting!

Brother KH840 for Zoie

Brother KH840 is a standard-gauge knitting machine with punchcard-based patterning capabilities. Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of the post is dedicated to a specific KH840 knitting machine serviced and tested in my shop in May 2026.

The needlebed, punchcard mechanisms, and the carriage were deep-cleaned. All needles were removed, cleaned, and inspected. Needles with sticky latches or bent needles were replaced with the new (never used) ones (new stock).

The machine will come with all major and most minor accessories. The missing accessories are:

  • hard copy of the manual. However, a decent copy of the manual is available online for free.
  • punchcard holder pin. The machine did not really come with one. At the moment, I also do not have a replacement. In the video I recorded while testing this machine, I demonstrate that it is really not needed.
  • The bottle with oil is not included. Please, order Hoppe’s gun oil from Amazon.
  • Wax will not be included as well.

The cast-on thread is in a bobbin, and it is pink. The punchcards are the original Brother set but might not match those in the manual. I am including five additional cards as well as a thank you for your business and patience.

All other accessories are in great shape.

The tension mast is new (new stock) and never used.

The punchcard knob cover is a 3D replacement. The original white one was cracked and did not sit securely.

The carriage lock is also new (new stock).

The lace carriage works great too (see the video).

The extension rails are also new. I knitted on this machine using them and they fit well.

All accessories are stored inside a built-in toolbox.

All major accessories fit inside the lid.

Well, talking about the lid: the original lid is still in rough shape, and instead of delaying the delivery of the machine, I am including a spare lid I have, but it is from KH891.

But because it is not the original lid, there is a color difference.

It is in great shape with only some minor imperfections (not all shown).

There are a couple of other imperfections that you should be aware of.

I took parts for the carriage from another carriage. Thus, there are some color differences.

Because the machine and the carriage were deep-cleaned with cleaning oils, you might see some oil bleeding onto the needlebed. Just wipe the stains with a dry absorbing cloth.

The tension mast might be a bit tight to insert, but push in gently.

The small cast-on comb has minor bents but overall is straight and hangs on the stitches well.

With regards to the tests on this machine (which are documented in this video): all (tuck, slip, fair-isle, and lace knitting) went really well. I made sure that I had consecutive 20-30 rows of patterning to avoid “hidden” issues, and there were indeed none.

The tests were done on the full bed to demonstrate even tension across the bed, that all needles form correct stitches, and that the carriage slides well across the full bed. I used card #1 because it is the easiest pattern to see any mispatterning. I also like to start with the tuck-stitch (after stockinet rows) because it reveals problems (with needles and their latches, with the carriage not passing the yarn correctly, etc.) right away. I am very pleased with the performance (even the ever problematic tuck stitch behaved really well!) and look of this machine. Hope you are too!

Issues (and solutions) with Brother lace carriages.

LC = lace carriage

… in progress. Last updated: May 06, 2026.

If the LC is not selecting needles correctly, check:

  • The sponge strip in the retaining bar. It needs to be pristine.
  • If the machine is electronic, check the magnet on the back
  • if none of the above work, take the cover off the lace carriage and inspect the internal mechanisms. There are several service manuals available online for Brother lace carriages.

Lace carriage is stuck on the bed: If your carriage LC has a release button, press it and lift the carriage. Wiggle it a bit to release the needles that are stuck during the transfer of the stitch. Do it gently so no needles break or become bent during the process. If no release button, keep on jiggling until it lets go. Actually, before even putting the LC onto the bed, make sure ALL buttons and levers on it move freely.

Brother KH830, March 2026

Brother KH830 is a standard-gauge knitting machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart, and punchcard-reading capabilities for automatic knitting of patterned fabric. Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The post below is dedicated to a specific machine, serviced and tested in my shop in April 2026.

I deeply cleaned this machine and, while disassembling, discovered that the needle retaining spring has some rust. Luckily, it was the only internal part rusted (because of the rusted needle retaining spring, I was extra-extra diligent in checking for rust signs). I replaced the needle retaining spring and treated some very minor rust spots inside (mostly on the case) with Rust-Oleum. The new needle retaining spring works great, helping needles to form correct stitches (watch the video of my tests).

The carriage and the punchcard mechanism were also disassembled and deep-cleaned as well. Additionally, all the needles were removed, cleaned, inspected and polished where needed. The needles were then inspected again when I inserted them into the needle bed, and then tested while knitting. I discovered a couple of faulty needles this way and replaced them (with new stock needles). Read more about knitting tests below.

Since the lace carriages are simpler, they often do not need as deep cleaning as the main carriages. Thus, the lace carriage was tested and then cleaned of old dirt and grease. It works great (see below). BTW, the lace carriage is the original and came with this KH830 setup (sometimes I included carriages from other models).

The whole retaining bar was not refurbished but was replaced completely. So, you’ll get a sponge strip under the plastic ends (not with medical tape around).

The machine will come with all major and most minor accessories. The missing accessories are:

  • wax and wax container;
  • tapensry needle (any needle of your choice will work)
  • bottle with oil. It was too old to use it. I recommend Hoppe’s gun oil available on Amazon.
  • The hard copy of the manual will also not be included, but it is available online for free.

The table clamps, tension mast (look below how white and shiny it is), carriage lock, and extension rails are all new. The needle indicator strip is also brand-new.

Some are brand new from old stock, and some from new stock. You will be the first owner to use them (well, I used them during my tests).

A set of original Brother punchcards (generic ones, especially made recently, are produced from significantly thinner sheets of plastic) is included, but the designs might be slightly different from those shown in the manual. Card #17 is missing, but I am including an additional five cards for fair-isle and lace. I am also including, as promised, a set of original blank Brother cards for making your own designs.

The machine did not come with its own carriage, but I found another carriage for KH830. Therefore, you will see some color differences. Additionally, some people are asking me whether I forgot to include a couple of screws while assembling the carriage back (see below). No, I did not. It was designed this way. The tension dial cap is also a replacement; thus, a slight color mismatch is present there as well.

The cast-on combs are in great shape. However, only the long one is the original one (it is grey-ish in color). The small one is a newer replacement (it is whiter) because the original one was bent out of shape too much.

The little knob/cover for the punchcard reader lever is a 3D-printed replacement. The punchcard rod is included. However, all the tests I performed were done without it (I don’t ever use it on other machines). So it is not a critical accessory at all.

All accessories fit nicely into the toolbox. The lid for the toolbox has a different level of discoloration (despite coming with this machine): I suspect it was either not used a lot (hidden somewhere away from sunlight) or was purchased later in the machine’s life. Thus, discoloration.

Last about discoloation: the place where the row counter is attached has the most contrast. make sense: the row counter is attached to the front panel, blocking it from the sunlight. Thus, no discoloration due to UV damage.

The cleaning brush that came with the machine has a chipped corner. This is the last original Brother brush I have. I am including this one instead of the generic ones because I find original Brother brushes much better (thicker and fuller, and bristles do not fall out easily).

Although I clean and machine before and after, some superficial dust/lint/puff might remain as an aftermath of my tests.

The toolbox has some staining inside (see below). The tool holding compartment (not shown) has some staining inside too: looks like somebody was keeping pens in there.

Despite yellowing and discoloration, the plastic parts are still very strong and sturdy.

The case overall is in great shape with only minor stains, bumps, and scratches.

The “most severe” imperfections are shown below.

A couple of comments about the knitting tests. Knitting on a full bed is important to demonstrate that the machine can handle the tension differences (which depend on the weights’ distribution, claw weights position, cast-on comb attachment, edge-weights, etc.) and that all needles produce correct stitches. All the tests I performed went great with this machine. The carriage was running smoothly, and at a perfect combination of yarn, tension, and lubrication could be moved with just one hand.

During the full-bed tests, I like using card #1 because incorrect needle selection will be seen immediately on the needlebed and on the knitted fabric. There was no mispatterning, which indicates a well-serviced punchcard mechanism, timing belt, carriage, and sinker plate.

The timing belt moves smoothly. I recommend moving (very slightly) the carriage back and forth (by just 1-2 mm) to ensure that the carriage is engaged correctly with the timing belt. You can see some of these movements in my video.

As you can also see in my video, the machine responds really well to changing knitting parameters. It handled the tension changes, as well as knitting using various stitches: slip, tuck, and fair isle. I used three different yarns. The bluish yarn has some texture (small boucle). The pink yarn (used in two-color fair-isle) is a very silky 100% acrylic yarn, prone to static.

The thickest yarn was used for lace patterns. The card used during my tests is included with your setup.

General recommendations:

  • Start with this thin yarn on a small number of needles
  • Slip-stitch requires tension that is a bit lower than stockinet
  • tuck-stitch requires tension even lower than slip-stitch. Read here on how to get successful tuck-stitch fabric.

Happy Knitting!

Knitking KR880 ribber serviced and tested in my shop in March 2026

KnitKing KR880 ribbing attachment fits standard-gauge Brother, Defendi and KnitKing punchcard and electronic knitting machines. It is identical to Brother KR830 ribber. Read more about KnitKing KR880 and Brother KR830 ribbers in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of the post below is dedicated to a specific ribber serviced and tested in my shop in March 2026.

The carriage of the KnitKing KR880 ribber was cleaned and serviced. All buttons and levers move freely and function properly. All needles were removed, cleaned, and inspected. The connecting brackets are new (read more on that below).

The ribber was tested on the Brother KH860 machine. I’ve spent a good amount of time making sure the correct distance between the ribber and the main bed. The zig-zag cast-on row looked even across the full bed (see the picture below) with no dropped stitches.

When you get this ribber, I recommend using my settings first, and if the ziz-zag does not look even or the stitches on the first row do not form, only then adjust the distance. In general, the zig-zag might not form necessarily due to incorrect distance but due to yarn issues (if too thick, a wider distance might be needed and vice versa), type of knitting, etc.

The machine will come with all accessories but one: the fine bar. The one that came with the machine is in rough, unusable shape and I don’t have a spare one. It is absolutely not the main accessory (a lot of knitters posting on social media that they don’t even use it).

The connecting arm is not the original one to KR880 but a replacement from the Brother KR850 ribber. That connecting arm is a bit more “advanced” since a plating attachment can be added if desired. I do not have one at the moment to spare, otherwise I would have included it. The hard copy of the manual will not be included as well, but its free pdf copy is available online for free.

End-stitch presser plates, the racking lever and replacement needles are new.

The cast-on combs and the table clamps are original, but they had some discoloration. I cleaned and polished them and covered them with silver Rustoleum.

Aluminum claw weight hangers are new as well.

Imperfections:

  • Even though I oiled the machine and the brackets, since the brackets are new, they are a bit resistant when moving the bed up and/or down. Thus, practice lowering the ribber needlebed before knitting. I’ve had ribbers in the past that were too easy to lower, and it was somewhat inconvenient. So, I’d rather have a ribber that is a bit resistant to lower than a ribber that can drop down without a warning.
  • Rustoleum does not always cover the surfaces that are smooth. I did not want to roughen the cast-on combs just to get an even coat of paint. Thus, you’ll see some unevenness in my paint job.
  • The carriage has a Sharpie marking and typical sun-related yellowing/discoloration

To ensure that the carriage functions well and that all needles form correct stitches, I knitted on a full bed but on every other needle. Thus, I tested two sets of every other needle position. Everything went great: watch the video of my tests here.

Happy knitting!!

About knitting machine stitches: tuck

… constantly in progress. Last updated: April 2026

Despite being one of the prettiest, tuck-stitch is the most finicky stitch in my opinion. So, below couple of tips for everybody on how to make it less painful to knit beautiful tuck-stitch patterns.

  1. Make sure the tuck brushes or wheels (if your machine/sinker plate/carriage are equipped with those) are pushed forward. It is possible to form nice tuck stitches without them, but it is way better WITH them.
  2. Tension should be set on lower numbers; it will also depend on your yarn. Swatch, swatch, swatch before using tuck for a garment to discover the right combination of tension and yarn.
  3. Poorly formed tuck stitches could be because of the static (yarn is prone to static, the air in the room is dry, there is minor rust in the machine or carriage, insufficient oiling): a dryer sheet on the nedlebed, attach wax to the tension mast, spray your yarn with anti-static.
  4. Tuck needs even weight across the knitting. If the stitches did not come off completely from the needles (due to yet not established tension, sticky yarn or static, etc. …), just inspect the row and push them down by hand. See a demo of what I mean by that in this video at the 7th minute.
  5. Sometimes I move the carriage a bit slower when knitting tuck to check if all stitches rolled off the needle heads correctly. If you see that some stitches did not slide off the needle heads, do it manually. This might happen if the yarn is textured, the needle heads are not as smooth, due to static, or insufficient weight.
  6. The carriage is moved too quickly or too slowly.
  7. Needle heads are not smooth enough: oil them, polish them or replace
  8. Latches for tuck-stitch need to be ideal: not bent or sticky latches. Thus, check the needles especially thoroughly if you see mis-patterning or poorly formed stitches.

Always remember that tuck-stitch takes twice as many rows to form. Thus, pay attention to it when calculating your gauges and yarn consumption.

Brother Profile KH551 serviced in February 2026

Brother Profile knitting machine is a standard-gauge machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart. It has a push-button needle selection mechanism that allows to knit patterns. Read more about the pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. This post is dedicated to a specific Brother Profile 551 serviced in my shop in February 2026.

The carriage was cleaned and serviced (oiled as well). All levers and buttons move freely.

The machine was cleaned and oiled. The sponge strip in the retaining bar was replaced with a new one. The retaining bar is the original.

All the needles were inspected; first visually while I cleaned them, and then by knitting on all of them. I did discover a couple of faulty needles (one ofthe “finds” is shown in the video), which were replaced. To test all needles, I knitted several different patterns: plain stockinet, slip (or part) stitch with the patterning on every other needle as well as tuck-stitch. See the video. All needles formed correct stitches (but read below more on tuck).

I included a new needle indicator strip.

The machine comes with all major and most minor accessories.

Among the major accessories, the tension mast, the ratchet lever (it the video I used a different one but later replaced it with the original one), and the table brackets are original. The missing minor accessories are 1) one of the sinker plate yarn hangers (I am including the second one and if needed, one of a similar shape can be made from a paper clip. These are only needed for fair isel and/or weaving (refer to the manual)); 2) tool box, 3) case for the minor accessories and 4) the unravel cord (any silky strong thread will work as well). I forgot if I included a tapestry needle (sorry 🙁 ) but any needle of your choice with a wide eye works. I even included a small tube of good lookingmoriginal knitting machine oil. But for future lubing, order Hope’s gun oil on Amazon.

A hard copy of the manual, unfortunately, will not be included. I don’t even have my own copy. But it is available online for free.

The transfer tool set is not original (the original one has metal needle pushers/combs), but it is brand new. It includes the transfer tools, latch hook, and the 1×1 needle selection comb. The two other combs are not original either, but in great shape, and the selection-“teeth” correspond to those mentioned in the manual.

The replacement needles are not in the picture, but they are indeed included (I placed them inside the kit).

Things to pay attention to:

  • When removing the retaining bar to inspect the sponge strip or to replace the needles, the tape on its ends might come off. Securing the sponge strip ends with some sort of tape is a typical way of replacing these sponge strips. Just apply a fresh section of medical tape. Make sure not to wrap too much around: not even once, but just enough to attach the sponge and leave the top surface of the retaining bar exposed.
  • Check the position of the row counter once in a while. Because I had to loosen up the sliding bracket, it might become loose if the machine is not fastened strongly enough by the table clamps and vibrates a bit.
  • If the carriage starts making strange noises, check the sinker plate positioning (described in the video).
  • The manual online has a poor resolution. There are a couple of pdfs for the manuals for other pushbutton machines on that website. The position of the levers is the same. So, when uncertain: refer to those or message me.
  • If the cast-on comb teeth are slightly bent, apply gentle pressure (just with your hand) to bent them back. No extreme bent please so they dont snap.
  • Since there is no toolbox, I placed the tools inside the bubble wrap and placed it on the needlebed. They might fall out when you open the lid. I fastened the bubble wrap with purple masking tape. So if you see this tape, it is not to secure the lid and the case but to prevent the bubble wrap from sliding inside.

Imperfections:

  • it turned out that the cast-on ruler set that came with this machine is not the original one (the original ones are metal). They do not quite fit inside the lid’s brackets. But they are in such a great shape and match the color that I felt they should go with this machine. So, it might be quite frustrating to put them back into the lid, but this is the best way they are stored/travelled.
  • The handle has some minor cracks.

  • The row counter is not the original one, but it works great. I had to expand the socket a bit to accommodate its wider base so it will only go inthe middle position. The left- and right-hand rail-like placement slots can accommodate the tool holder. One in a while
  • Needle picker has some age-related discoloration but works fine. Watch a video I put together on how to use it.
  • There is a small section on the lid where a small connecting plate broke off. It was either glued or soldered on. It is such an awkward place and I just let it be. The lid is a tiny bit loose in that area but nothing too bad.
  • Other than that, the lid and the case are in great shape. There was some staining on the outside, which I cleaned, but some minor stains are still there (or maybe I am just seeing them after spending so much time trying to remove them 🙂 )

General advice on knitting, which is applicable to any machine:

  • pull the yarn up a bit when knitting on a large number of needles and turning the carriage to knit in the opposite direction; it will help to avoid looping on the edges and dropped stitches due to the tension change.
  • also, to avoid looping and dropped stitches on the sides, especially when a lot of needles are active, apply claw weights. I just realized that they are not in a typical setup but I’ll throw a couple into the package. Please, look for them.
  • Tuck-stitch might be a steep learning curve (see above) but with patience, you can do it!! General advice, especially when just learning your machine: when knitting tuck stitch, move the carriage slowly, watch for any signs of incorrect tension, watch for stitches that did not slide correctly, apply weight for tension on the fabric, and pull the yarn up when turning the carriage. All this might not be needed for some yarns but for some, it is a must, especially at the beginning of familiarizing yourself with your machine and its likes and dislikes. In the video, I made a mistake during yarn switching and some of the needles dropped stitches. This is why the tuck with pink yarn was not on all needles. But notice that I am not adjusting the stitches as I did with the grey yarn. Tuck overall is finicky: certain tension is needed, low static, oiled needles… just to name a few “issues”. The video shows some tricks.

Happy knitting!

Solving mispatterning problems with Brother punchcard machines.

….in progress. Last updated: April 2026

KnitKing, Defendi and, most famous, Brother machines accepting 24-stitch cards, bulky and standard, for automatic needle selection, and, thus, patterning, can be quite finicky, especially if you inherited the machine that has not been recently serviced. There is myriad of reasons; some are simple, some are more complex. Below is my attempt to identify and summarize them.

The bullets below are NOT listed in their troubleshooting order.

  • old sponge in the retaining bar: replace
  • carriage is not seated properly: Brother carriages have a small lip; make sure it is “hugging” the needlebed (and not sitting on top of it).
  • old grease in the carriage, which causes some of the levers be stuck. See my demo on how to check for stuck flippers.
  • Problems with sinker plate: it might manifest itself by expected needle selection when ONLY the carriage is used but when the sinker plate is attached, the needles are selected incorrectly. More on this here.
  • The timing belt was reattached incorrectly. A small demo of correct attachment is here.
  • The timing belt and the rotating shaft are misaligned (shown here).
  • The relative position of the patterning pins and square brackets is incorrect. See examples of correct and incorrect positions here. Watch how fix an incorrect installation.

Solving problems with mis-patterning Brother punchcard machines: problems with sinker plate alignment

… in progress. Last updated: March 2026

The advice below applies to Defendi, KnitKing, and Brother knitting machines accepting 24-stitch cards, bulky and standard-gauge.

I came across this problem right after I spent hours cleaning the insights of the machine, aligning the timing belt, all pins and plates, and removing old grease. I was very confident that the insides and alignment of the machine was in excellent shape. In fact, when I was passing the carriage back and forth, fast and slowly, while card #1 was inserted, every other needle was selected in each pass like a clock.

However, when I attached the sinker plate, some of the needles started being selected incorrectly (watch a video of what I mean). I was very puzzled because this was the first time I ever experienced something like this.

One of the most probable causes is a sinker plate alignment (on the carriage itself). So watch closely how the sinker plate goes onto the carriage. If both sides slide in easily without any (even minor) drop-in. The misalignment can be due to a bent versus just damaged sinker plate. I noticed that if I loosen up the sinker plate, it does NOT mispattern. So, after lots of staring and measuring, I noticed that the carriage plate underneath the thumb nuts was a bit bent on one side. I straightened it and the sinker plate was attaching more evenly and mispatterning disappeaed.

On another occasion, I noticed that the left and right sections of the sinker plate assembly were not symmetrical. One was slightly above the other. There was a small bend in one. I straightened it and adjusted the screws to make both parts symmetrical relative to each other.

I will be collecting pictures of sinker plate misalignments (but it would still be hard to cover all angles). So in the meantime, just stare at your sinker plate and watch for any asymmetries, weird angles, loose sections, etc. It helps if you have another (good/non-faulty one) sinker plate for comparison.

Good luck, and let me know how it went!