Patterning – Thoughts on knits

Singer MemoMatic 323 prepared in my shop in October 2026

Singer MemoMatic 323 is a standard-gauge knitting machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart. Read more about this model in its own article in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of the blog post below is dedicated to a specific Singer MemoMatic 323 machine serviced in my shop.

As usual, the machine was deep-cleaned, oiled, and serviced. All needles were removed, cleaned, and inspected (for rust, straightness, and mobility of the latch). The sponge strip was replaced with a new one. (I recommend buying a small roll of medical tape to reglue the sponge strip because frequent removal of the retaining bar might strip the old tape – a typical problem of the refurbished sponge strips).

Read in more detail all the steps I take when cleaning, inspecting, and testing my machines. Briefly, after the machine was inspected, I knitted several swatches to familiarize myself with how the machine behaves, to test how the tension dial works, and then on the full bed to test the same and also to check whether all the needles form correct stitches. The video of all those tests is here.

The machine behaved great during all those tests. I demonstrated tuck-, slip-, and fair isle patterns. All stitches were formed well. I will include a couple of cards for popular (for blankets and for baby items) patterns with the standard set of punchcards.

I included a new needle indicator strip (although the needles leave the black oil mark the second they slide against the strip and thus, the new strip already looks used). I removed the old and crumbling side end-racks and installed new ones. The carriage was opened up and serviced. The drums on the carriage move very freely (which is important for smooth carriage movement).

The machine will come with all major accessories and most minor ones. It might seem at first (based on the picture below) that a LOT of accessories are missing. However, the manual the closest matching the machine feature and function covers two models: Singer MemoMatic 322 and 323. Singer MemoMatic 322 has a built-in knit leader, while Singer MemoMatic 323 does not. Thus, some of the accessories crossed out below (gauge scale, stitch scales, and knit leader sheets) are not applicable to this machine because it does not come with a knit leader.

Single motif accessories (one point cam, plate cam, and separators) did not come with this machine, and I do not have any replacements. I also do not have any weaving brush attachment (weaving arm) to include. My understanding is that single motif and weaving are among the last techniques new and returning knitters try (as well as try to master) on the knitting machines.

The minor accessories also not included are: ravel cord (any strong and silky yarn will work), tapestry needle (any needle of your choice, including plastic, will work), name paper (it is simply a sticky paper to put your name on it and attach to the machine), and the punchcard rod (called card guide).

All the tests shown in this video were done without the card guide, and there were no issues related to the absence of this rod.

Among the accessories that are included are the box with a lid (original, in decent shape), stitch transfer tools (two original and one also original but does not say “Singer” on it), claw weights (one original and one brand new, new stock), table clamps, needle selection ruler, punchcard clamps (including an extra set because the original green one might not survive for long), 1×1 needle selection ruler, oil (decent, but I still recommend getting Hope’s gun oil on Amazon). I will include a small ball of yarn that I used when knitting on this machine: good to familiarize yourself with the machine with a yarn of known performance. I am including extra wheels/brushes with plastic covers (those get bent quite frequently, so practice first till proficiency and then remove those plastic circles if needed).

I am including a brand new set of punchcards. They should match the original cards. I included about a dozen various cards as well (some from Knittery (professional ones) and some hand-punched (not by me)).

The row counter is original.

Imperfections: overall, the machine is in a very decent shape. However:

I replaced the broken end caps on the lid with brand new ones (new stock). So they are bright and shiny and new. Not quite an imperfection, but it the look will clearly show the discrepancy in wear/tear (pictures are coming in the second draft).
There were super minor, very small spots that could be interpreted as rust on the case on the inside. I covered them with the Rust-Oleum for extra precautions.
Like all knitting machines, this vintage beauty machine has its own character too. Before connecting the yarn, practice moving the carriage on the first dozen needles and then expand to the whole bed with one solid continuous motion with both hands. This is not an imperfection but more of a “need-to-pay-attention-to” sort of thing.
There are a couple of very minor stains on the needlebed and plastic case (they are even hard to see in the pictures below)

The oyster clamps seem a bit chewed up but still work pretty well.

With regard to the manual for this machine. The hard copy WILL NOT be included. I tried to find a suitable online copy… Even though all machines in the 32X series look and are operated similarly, there are minor discrepancies in their accessories lists and some minor functions… (in table clamp shapes, the way the sinker plate looks, presence or absence of the weaving arm, some single motif accessories…. to name a few). So, I found that this video shows the most accurate manual for the Singer MemoMatic 323 knitting machine. Additionally, the manual for the Empisal Knitmaster 326 is poor quality but also somewhat accurate. A good manual is here. Keep in mind the difference between 322 and 323 models (only 322 has knit leader and all associated accessories). None of the manuals describe the machine exactly as it is. For example, one manual describes all accessories correctly, but the model picture has two knobs at the punchcard pattern center, and this machine has only one.

Below is the serial number for this machine, which I will delete from the web after the machine is received by its owner.

Brother KH260+KR260 setup tested in August 2026

Brother KH260, especially with a matching Brother KR260 ribber, is a highly sought-after setup. Read more about the wonderful Brother KH260 knitting machine and KR260 ribber in their corresponding posts in the Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. This post is dedicated to the setup I serviced and tested in August-September 2026.

The machine is in great shape and worked very well (see the video of the tests). I tested the machine by itself, with a ribber, and with a ribber+color changer setup. I used three different yarns, two of which were problematic ones (based on my previous experience with them). The machine handled all stitches (stockinette, slip/part, tuck and even plating) all very well. The thickest yarn, as shown in the video, was the light green one. The case and the lid are in great shape too. Despite some minor discoloration (which sometimes indicates rust starting to form), there were no static issues, and I tried several yarns, including difficult ones.

All accessories will be included with some minor exceptions (see below). A hard copy of the manual, with some additional brochures and additional punchcards included as well.

The carriage is in great shape. I left the carriage in the settings that correspond to the “last pair of needles being selected” (read the manual on that). Because I left the ribber insertion brackets in, I used the ribber lock for the machine. The machine-only lock is included as well with the accessories.

The tension mast came with the machine, and there was usable wax in it (although a bit yellow). I am sending it along. The cast-on combs are also original and are in great shape. Three of the claw weights are brand new (new stock), and three are original ones (thus, they are slightly different in color).

One pair of card clips is original (white); one is new stock but used. The needle selection ruler and the set of transfer tools is original. Card holder pin/rod is included, but I did not even use it during my tests.

A brand new knit leader scale (part of the machine setup) is also included. The cast-on thread is in a bobbin. Table clamps are original and look brand new, in my opinion.

All needles were removed, cleaned, and inspected (according to my standard procedure). I paid special attention to the latches because I had some minor problems with the tuck stitches. I deep cleaned everything, including the card reader mechanism. The sponge bar is new, not refurbished.

I cleaned the sinker plate, the needlebed, and the carriage again after the tests, but some residual lint accumulated after my tests (very minor) might remain.

Punchcards are a new set (new stock), but it matches the original one (thus, correspond to the patterns shown in the manual). Unfortunately, I damaged card #1 slightly from this set, but I am including another one from another set. It is made on a bit thicker paper and is marked as 1s (others are marked with “p”). I am also including, as a thank you, two original Knittery cards and four custom-punch cards (punched by hand but not by me).

The accessories are stored in the built-in storage box.

During my tests, the only issue I experienced was when I knitted tuck. First, I knitted tuck when the ribber was attached to the machine (so, the machine was at an angle to the table). Some of the stitches did not slide easily, and I had to manually inspect them. When I removed the ribber and the main needlebed was parallel to the table, I was able to tune the tension for that particular yarn with the amount of weights to knit tuck without checking the needles too much. Additionally, I knitted tuck without engaging the tuck wheels and the brushes (the manual describes it pretty well) and still got good results. Read my article on tuck and how to troubleshoot it. The article emphasizes the importance of swatching (aka, figuring out the right tension and weight combinations) for tuck.

Minor imperfections of the machine:

Wheel brushes for waving and tuck have some discoloration, but nothing too serious to mess with it (it is even hard to see in the pictures).

The row counter has typical yellowing/discoloration, but it does not affect its functioning. It is original: the pink insert on the dial gives it away.
The metal insert to hold the parts inside the lid was a bit rusty, so I covered it with my favorite Rust-Oleum.

The needlebed had some discoloration as well, so a layer of Rust-Oleum was applied as well.

There is some minor straining/discoloration on the needlebed itself. But it does not affect the functioning of the machine.

Minor staining and unevenness on the needlebed main bed and/or lid.

The ribber is set up at the moment perfectly for the machine (distance-wise): the first knitted zig-zag row looked perfect.

I suggest using the settings that the ribber came with, and if there are problems, then try to adjust them. I knitted on the ribber+machine 1×1 ribbing at two different needle combinations (shown in the video) and got excellent results for both.

The only comments I have about the ribber are to pull on the fabric when the yarn is worsted-weight to make sure nothing gets caught. The weights sometimes rest against something on the machine stand, and it is something to watch for as well. I feel a tilt stand would be ideal for this setup, but those are hard to find. Even I don’t have one in my possession.

The ribber will also come with ALL accessories. Most are original. Only some are replacements, but still original to Brother. A hard copy of the manual is also included (typically I do not have spare copies to include). It is with the knitting machine package and all other brochures.

The ribber carriage is in great shape. The spanner is the original but is a bit rough to the touch. It is not a big deal. I feel that the spanner has not been used at all.

The claw hangers are new (new stock). The D-slider is original.

Table clamps are original but showed some discoloration, and I applied a layer of Rust-Oleum.

The cast-on combs are original too and have some discoloration, but I decided not to make them uglier with my mediocre painting skills. The combs are still smooth to the touch. Only one side is discolored. The other looks perfect.

The handle is new stock (thus, it is a bit whiter than the rest of the plastic).

Both the ribber and the machine will come with their original packaging, which I will then put in another box. The resale value of the machines with original packaging is a bit higher, and it is also nice to have them for storage, especially the ribber packaging since it has all these nice compartments.

Differences, pros, and cons of Brother pushbutton and punch card knitting machines

… in progress while I am organizing my thoughts on this subject.

The comparisons below are done for the 4- and 8-pushbutton machines versus the 24-stitch repeat punchcard machines. This means Brother KH800 and KH801 are not participating in this comparison. The hybrid model, Brother KH811, is also not considered here. A full current list of machines included in this article is at the end of this post.

At first sight, Brother pushbutton and punch card machines have different patterning mechanisms. However, the actual needle selection occurs using the same patterning plates, a basic mechanism of almost ALL Brother knitting machines.

Pushbutton machines need a ratchet tool to activate the needle selection. Punchcard machines just need a prepatterned punchcard inserted into a slot of a card reader, and after that the needle selection is automatic.

Pushbutton machines offer an 8-stitch repeat pattern, while punchcards 24. However, the users are still limited to the punchcards themselves: there is somewhat limited selection of premade punchcards unless knitters hunt down knittery and other custom cards or punch them themselves. It would seem that pushbutton would offer more variety but more of a more involved (some are by hand manipulations) process.

I feel that keeping track of knitting cables spread at even distances from each othter is easier on pushbutton machines: I can memorize which buttons to press to move the needles (that mark my cable positions) forward.

It seems that the list of accessories compatible with punchcard machines is much bigger. Ribbers for pushbutton machines are hard to find and there is only a limited number of models that fit. Ribbers for punchcard knitting machines are all interchangeable, and they are easier to find on the used market. Thus, I feel pushbutton machines offer more flexibility in terms of creating patterns, which might be important to designers and those who ar enot ready to give up satisfaction of manipulation stitches by hand. Punchcard machines offer faster automation of knitting patterns.

Additionally, minor accessories, like linking, transfer, and intarsia carriages, as well as color changers were NOT made for pushbutton machines.

I heard that lace patterns come out very nice on pushbutton machines.

Pushbutton machnes are somewhat lighter than punchcard ones. Most pushbutton machines have all-metal robust case. It is sometimes prone to rusting when not stored properly. Out of dozens pusbutton machines I only saw two that were not really fixable. Punchcard machines have metal lid and the case but the end caps and covers are plastic. These plastic parts are prone to sun light damage. Visible damage is yellowing but the over time degradation makes the plastic fragile. These plastic components often break during shipping.

However, if a pushbutton machine misbehaves, it is easier to troubleshoot it: punchcard machines have way more complicated timing-belt-based patterning process, which might be overwhelming to tune up.

There is no bulky gauge pushbutton machine. On a flip side, Brother’s only fine-gauge machine is pushbutton.

My personal choise would be to keep pushbutton machine for creating patterns and having a punchcard for quick patterned design of already established (in my head/skill level) garments/items.

List of 4- and 8-pushbutton machines as well as 24-stitch repeat punch-based knitting machines:

4-button	8-button	24-stitch repeat punchcard
KH511, KH521, Brother KH531, Brother Profile 551	Hi-Knitter Auto, Profile 552, KH552, KH561, KH571, KH580, KH581, Profile 583, KH583 Profile 585, KH585, KH587, Brother Profile 588, KH588, KH601, KH610, KH701, KH705, KH710, KH880	KH260, KH264P, KH810, KH820, KH821, KH830, KH831, KH835, KH836, KH838, KH840, KH850, KH851, KH860, KH864, KH868, KH871, KH881, KH890, KH891, KH892, KH893, KH894

Brother Profile KH552 for Paige, July 2026

Brother Profile 552 knitting machine is the first machine on the market with an 8-push-button needle selection mechanism. Read more about its pros and cons in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The post below is dedicated to a specific Brother 552 machine serviced and tested in my shop.

I deep-cleaned this machine using my standard procedure. In addition, I deep-cleaned the pushbutton mechanism. I removed the old sponge strip and replaced it with a new one (it will not be visible). The new sponge bar helps the buttons spring back faster/better. I also oiled the selecting plates, which also helps the pushbutton retract more reliably (which is demonstrated in the video).

The machine knitted wonderfully during my tests on the full bed (read here why tests on the full bed are so important to me; not just knitting a swatch). In this video, I show stockinette, slip- and tuck- stitches with 3 different yarns (but all a bit thinner than the sock yarn). All needles formed wonderful stitches. I will include a little bit of the first (blue) yarn with the setup. During those tests, I showed the functioning of the A/B and L/R knobs in the pattern center.

The description of the slip “zig-zag” pattern in the manual is not accurate. I am including a printed copy of that pattern as well. An accurate schematic for the zig-zag slip-stitch pattern is actually in the manual for the Brother KH587. It is in Spanish, but the schematics are self-explanatory. This manual has a lot more patterns than any other.

The setup will include almost all original parts: claw weights, ratchet tool, transfer tool, table clamps, carriage, cleaning brush, crochet hook, carriage lock, carriage screw-on handle, row counter, cast-on combs, wax in a container, sinker plate, and toolbox (although it might be from KH585/KH588 since it has designated spots for two carriage handles: one for the main carriage and one for the lace, but KH552 does not come with a lace carriage).

Replacement parts are:

Needle selection rulers: a slightly different set as shown in the manual
Tension mast (in great condition from a Brother machine but not the original one for the Brother Profile 552)
Replacement needles are new stock;
Cast-on thead is very likely not original; it is wound up on a bobbin.

Accessories that WILL NOT BE included:

Oil bottle; to lubricate my machines, I use Hoppe’s gun oil (Amazon has it).
“Accessories Kit” and “plastic case for spare needles” are just covers for the accessories. They were missing. Typically, those are so old and fragile that they are useless anyway.
Hard copy of the manual. There is a copy online that claims to be a manual for KH552; however, it is for KH588 (it shows the list of accessories for KH588). For reference: check out an online copy for KH585 (this is the one I used, as shown in the video, but the zig-zag pattern is not accurate).

BTW: Another useful free online brochure for pushbutton machines with patterns is a Baby’s book.

The accessories marked in blue below are for the KH588 machine and do not come with the Brother Profile 552 setup.

The machine’s look is in great shape as well, especially considering its age.

There are a couple of minor imperfections (read below):

There is a minor dent on the front panel

The lid had a couple of rusty areas, which I covered with Rust-Oleum.

Due to the machine being so old, or potentially because the tension mast is a bit bigger than the original one, you might see a case that is not fully closed. The crack is smaller when the pressure is applied, which makes me think that it is either the enlarged tension mast or simply the way all the components are packed inside (sometimes it is a pain to solve the puzzle of how all these pieces should lie perfectly inside for the lid to close the exact intended way).

Carriage had a rought/discolored spot on the back; I covered it with Rustoleum. Other than that one spot, the carriage is in great shape. I did not experience any static issues (which sometimes happen due to the rust in the components).

The claw weights are in good shape but have these minor cracks. Typically, something like this does not affect their functioning. I wanted to supply the machine with as many original tools as possible. But if you’d rather have new white claw weights, let me know, and I will replace them.

Cast-on combs are in great shape as well; however, the long cast-on has a small bend. I used that comb during all the tests shown in that video and did not have any problems. The small cast-on comb had some rust-like discoloration on the metal ends, so I applied a layer of Rustoleum as well.

Other useful things to know:

Just a small comment that a “hole” below between the clamp “feet” is NOT missing a screw. I checked with pictures of other machines and with another one of mine, and all of those do not have any screws in that area. I am not sure what the purpose of that hole is. Hmm…

Despite these minor imperfections, the case is actually in very good shape.

I am very confident in this machine, as I spent a lot of time cleaning, servicing, and ensuring it works properly.

Pictures from repairs of the Brother Profile 552.

The pictures below are applicable to most 8-push-button knitting machines.

Showing screws around the pattern center

The look of partially disassembled pattern center

Position of the “foot”. Also, a small screw hole is shown in the middle. Well, it is not for a screw. Not sure what for. But nothing goes in there. I see this small hole on many machines.

The image shows the position of the “feet”: the wide opening faces the “teeth).

Inside the pushbutton mechanism. Check out the video, in which I show how to (re) insert the buttons and the staples.

Position of the guiding plate. It goes against the wall of the pushbutton mechanism. Long staples go through it, and this is how the buttons are retracted. Wiggly staples do not go through this guiding plate.

Partially inserted pushbuttons. The sponge strip is replaced with a fresh one.

Same as above but a different view angle.

The picture shows that I propped the selecting plates assembly with a tool to keep it out of the way while I was inserting the pushbuttons.

Studio mod. 327 knitting machine for Ethan

Studo mod. 327 knitting machine is a standard-gauge machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart. There are a lot of resources on how to use this and similar knitting machines (such as Studio mod. 326, Silver SK327, etc.). Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The post below is dedicated to a specific machine serviced and tested in my shop in May 2026.

Maintenance performed on this machine:

I replaced the side racks with new ones
The knitradar was tested: the paper moves freely, and all the knobs and levers move freely too.
The row counter works great.

All needles were removed, cleaned, and inspected. Bad needles and those with sticky latches were replaced with new stock generic needles for similar machines (read more on that below).
The needles were also tested during the knitting on the full bed: all stitches formed beautifully (see the video of these tests). More on full-bed tests below.

The sponge bar was replaced. I recommend getting a very thin medical tape: if you need to remove it to replace the needles, the tape I applied to the replaced spongy strip might tear.
The case was opened and deep-cleaned. The needlebed was cleaned from various angles as well.
I opened the carriage and cleaned the mechanisms inside. Inspected and cleaned patterning drums. They move freely.

This Studio mod. 327 will come with all major and almost all minor accessories.

The missing accessories are:

Oil: use Hoppe’s gun oil available on Amazon
A pair of E point cams (read more on that below)
Cast-on thread: Any silky and strong thread will work
Name paper: it typically accompanies a machine to write your name on it

A hard copy of the manual will not be included. However, a manual for the Singer 327 machine is available online for free. However, the manual for the 328 model (on the same website) is of a bit better quality. Use that one as well.

“New Magic cams” are not from the original mod. 327 machine, but from one of the later models. It does not have M and E positions. Thus, point cams E are not included (well, those did not come with this machine anyway). But I am including an additional pair of point cams M (the later models have two pairs of them).

On the subject of the magic cams: The manual describes very poorly how to use the “magic cams”, cams E and cams M as well as yarn separators. Look on the same website for a manual for Singer/Studio 360 machine for two reasons: it explains the usage of magic cams for single motif knitting much better. And also because I do not have the original Magic Cams for the Studio mod. 327 machine.

So, according to the (poorly-written) manual: Studio mod. 327 comes with “new magic cams”, point cams M and point cams E. Point cams M are more standard and come with almost all Singer/Studio machines. However, these point cams E are unicorns. In fact, it was my first encounter with these point cams E while researching this machine. I found a pair of point cams E on eBay, but since I don’t have “new magic cams” with markers M and E, it is better to use those. So, only regular, point cams M are included. So, the single motif cams are those for other models, but I am sure they will work with this Studio mod. 327 as well. I attached them to the carriage (see the image above), and the whole assembly moved well on the needlebed.

I did not replace the slightly bent plastic round covers on the sinker plate side wheels (a picture below showing a scratch on the lid shows one of the wheels: they are not in horrible shape at all!). Those bend so easily that they will very likely bend during your first tests. But I am including an extra pair of these plastic circles (they are very easy to replace). All the tests were performed with these slightly bent plastic brush covers. The extra brushes (the manual says they are for tuck, but I knitted tuck without them) are brand new (new stock). I knitted tuck-stitch without them because this is how the sinker plate was set up. But honestly, these brushes come off so frequently that knitters remove them just not to deal with them.

The punchcard rod to hold the punchcards is the original. However, I did not use it during the tests shown in the video. Thus, its use is optional. One pair of punchcard clips is the original one (orange), and the second (green one) is new but old stock.

The extra replacement needles are new stock. They are slightly different than the original needles: longer by ~1 mm, and the concave part is slightly different. However, a few of the same needles were placed into the needlebed already, and they knitted beautifully without problems.

All minor accessories are stored inside a stand-alone box, although the box is not the original box for the Studio mod. 327 model, but still from Silver Reed-manufactured machines. All major accessories are stored in the lid.

The punchcard set is generic, new stock. But it is generic to Brother machines. It can still be used for the Studio mod. 327 knitting machine. The minor difference is in which row the punchcard readers start reading and knitting the pattern. I am working on a detailed article on that, but briefly: align the punchcard readers with two rows below the line. Other words: at the punchcard reader edge, you will see two rows and then the line. For simple repeat patterns, it does not even matter where to start. But for a single motif it is. So, if in doubt: swatch-swatch-swatch.

In addition, as a thank you for your patience, I am including several custom punchcards (a couple of hand-[unched and a couple of professionally cut from Knittery) and a set of blank punchcards (old stock but in great shape).

The knit radar sheets are original and still in great shape. However, while I was recording the functioning of the knit leader, I damaged one sheet (the row counter tripper ran into the sheet and ripped it: something to pay attention to). I am still including it: it can be tapes/glued. But I am also including a blank (on one side) graded sheet as a replacement. Additionally, knit radar sheets for generic/common shapes are available online if you need to print extra. The stitch scales are original ones, but only the “gauge scale” and “stitch scale” rulers are included. The “centre scale” rulers are not included (I do not have a set), but my understanding is that the “centre scale” rulers are more than enough.

The little knob covers for the punchcard reader are 3D printed replacements. The table clamps look like new stock, too (they came with the machine).

The carriage lock is the original as well.

A couple of things to pay attention to:

Push the carriage a bit down on the ends of the needlebed. I experienced these issues with my other Silver Reed-made knitting machines
If knitting on the full bed while using the knit leader sheets, pay attention to the row counter tripper so it does not rip the knit leader sheets.
The rubber end rails often fall apart and crumble (with time). If they do and if you do not knit on the full bed (on all needles), you do not even have to replace them. There is a way to move the carriage and avoid mispatterning: just do not let the drums get off the rails. So, move the carriage slowly at the end of the needlebed. But with the rubber end rails, there is nothing to worry about for at least several years
cover your machine with a sheet or a curtain to avoid sun damage and dust.

Imperfections:

There are some scratches around the knit leader wheel and on it as well. The function is not affected.

The lid has some minor scratches and bumps, but otherwise is in great shape (especially considering the age of the machine).

The case itself is in great shape, but a couple of stains, scratches, and bumps are present as well.

Here is the serial number for this machine, which I will remove after you receive and inspect the machine.

Happy Knitting!

Brother Profile 551 (KH551) knitting machine serviced and tested in my shop in May 2026

Brother Profile 551 knitting machine is an amazing miracle of Japanese engineering. This knitting machine has 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart, and all mechanical patterning capabilities. Read more about the pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of this post is dedicated to a specific Brother Profile KH551 serviced and tested in my shop in May 2016.

I performed the usual maintenance on this machine as I always do: removed all the needles, cleaned and inspected them. The bent needles were discarded and replaced with new ones. Some needles were polished until they were smooth. To further ensure that all needles formed correct stitches, I knitted on the full needlebed (see the video). I knitted stockinet, hold-, tuck-, and slip/part stitches, and all went really well! In addition, read my short article on tuck stitch if you experience problems with tuck stitch.

The needlebed, the carriage, and the sinker plate are in good shape, especially considering the age of this machine. See below some cosmetic imperfections on the carriage. The carriage runs very smoothly. Suppose you feel it does not run smoothly, oil (as shown in the manual), and reattach the sinker plate. The needle selection and the buttons work great, too. Also, at the end of my video, I show how to correctly activate the needle selection mechanism.

The machine will come with all necessary accessories. A lot of original accessories with a couple of minor exceptions. The S-shaped table clamps are original, but I had to cover them with a layer of Rustoleum. The transfer tools are original as well and are even in the original case (a better picture is below with a row counter). A set of claw weights is not part of the original setup, but I am including a pair because it is a very handy accessory to have. They are brand new (new stock).

The 1×1/0 needle selection ruler is original, but the other two are plastic replacements from new stock.

The tension mast and the cast-on combs are in great shape, especially considering their age.

The carriage lock is original.

The ratchet tool is a replacement. I used it during all the tests shown in the video. The needle picker is a 3D-printed copy and works well. The cleaning brush is a generic replacement. Not sure if the tapestry needle is the original, but it came with the machine. The wax is a bit crumbled, but if you need it, it will provide a good starting point. As a thank you for your patience and an apology for not having all other original tools in stock, I am including an adjustable needle transfer tool. I think it is original (not the new-stock generic), but the sticker is no longer attached to it.

The accessories that are missing are: the toolbox and its lid, the tool holder, and yarn hangers (easy to replace with a paper clip), and machine oil (use Hoppe’s gun oil available on Amazon).

I included a replacement needle indicator strip. The original ones that come with KH551 machines are transparent. The strip that I included is not new, but from one of the older machines to complement the vintage look of this machine.

The case and the lid are in great shape. Read below about some minor cosmetic imperfections.

About imperfections:

The tension dial on the carriage has some dents. It, however, still works well and provides reliable tension.

The carriage handle has a minor crack. It is, at the moment, the best handle I have to offer. I’ve seen handles in much worse shape, and they were still working fine. When attaching the handle onto the carriage, screw both sides at the same rate: a couple of turns on the left, then a couple of turns on the right, etc. The same with unscrewing/removing.

The raw counter is original, but the front panel had a crack. I secured it with super glue. The row counter otherwise works well (see the demo at the end of the video).

The lid and the case have some very minor stains and dents. Some of them are shown below.

Apparently, the handle has an opening in the metal cover. First, I thought it was a defect, but all other machines have the same feature. So, no alarm here.

None of these imperfections affected any functioning of the machine.

Happy knitting!

Brother KH840 for Zoie

Brother KH840 is a standard-gauge knitting machine with punchcard-based patterning capabilities. Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of the post is dedicated to a specific KH840 knitting machine serviced and tested in my shop in May 2026.

The needlebed, punchcard mechanisms, and the carriage were deep-cleaned. All needles were removed, cleaned, and inspected. Needles with sticky latches or bent needles were replaced with the new (never used) ones (new stock).

The machine will come with all major and most minor accessories. The missing accessories are:

hard copy of the manual. However, a decent copy of the manual is available online for free.
punchcard holder pin. The machine did not really come with one. At the moment, I also do not have a replacement. In the video I recorded while testing this machine, I demonstrate that it is really not needed.
The bottle with oil is not included. Please, order Hoppe’s gun oil from Amazon.
Wax will not be included as well.

The cast-on thread is in a bobbin, and it is pink. The punchcards are the original Brother set but might not match those in the manual. I am including five additional cards as well as a thank you for your business and patience.

All other accessories are in great shape.

The tension mast is new (new stock) and never used.

The punchcard knob cover is a 3D replacement. The original white one was cracked and did not sit securely.

The carriage lock is also new (new stock).

The lace carriage works great too (see the video).

The extension rails are also new. I knitted on this machine using them and they fit well.

All accessories are stored inside a built-in toolbox.

All major accessories fit inside the lid.

Well, talking about the lid: the original lid is still in rough shape, and instead of delaying the delivery of the machine, I am including a spare lid I have, but it is from KH891.

But because it is not the original lid, there is a color difference.

It is in great shape with only some minor imperfections (not all shown).

There are a couple of other imperfections that you should be aware of.

I took parts for the carriage from another carriage. Thus, there are some color differences.

Because the machine and the carriage were deep-cleaned with cleaning oils, you might see some oil bleeding onto the needlebed. Just wipe the stains with a dry absorbing cloth.

The tension mast might be a bit tight to insert, but push in gently.

The small cast-on comb has minor bents but overall is straight and hangs on the stitches well.

With regards to the tests on this machine (which are documented in this video): all (tuck, slip, fair-isle, and lace knitting) went really well. I made sure that I had consecutive 20-30 rows of patterning to avoid “hidden” issues, and there were indeed none.

The tests were done on the full bed to demonstrate even tension across the bed, that all needles form correct stitches, and that the carriage slides well across the full bed. I used card #1 because it is the easiest pattern to see any mispatterning. I also like to start with the tuck-stitch (after stockinet rows) because it reveals problems (with needles and their latches, with the carriage not passing the yarn correctly, etc.) right away. I am very pleased with the performance (even the ever problematic tuck stitch behaved really well!) and look of this machine. Hope you are too!

Brother KH830, March 2026

Brother KH830 is a standard-gauge knitting machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart, and punchcard-reading capabilities for automatic knitting of patterned fabric. Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The post below is dedicated to a specific machine, serviced and tested in my shop in April 2026.

I deeply cleaned this machine and, while disassembling, discovered that the needle retaining spring has some rust. Luckily, it was the only internal part rusted (because of the rusted needle retaining spring, I was extra-extra diligent in checking for rust signs). I replaced the needle retaining spring and treated some very minor rust spots inside (mostly on the case) with Rust-Oleum. The new needle retaining spring works great, helping needles to form correct stitches (watch the video of my tests).

The carriage and the punchcard mechanism were also disassembled and deep-cleaned as well. Additionally, all the needles were removed, cleaned, inspected and polished where needed. The needles were then inspected again when I inserted them into the needle bed, and then tested while knitting. I discovered a couple of faulty needles this way and replaced them (with new stock needles). Read more about knitting tests below.

Since the lace carriages are simpler, they often do not need as deep cleaning as the main carriages. Thus, the lace carriage was tested and then cleaned of old dirt and grease. It works great (see below). BTW, the lace carriage is the original and came with this KH830 setup (sometimes I included carriages from other models).

The whole retaining bar was not refurbished but was replaced completely. So, you’ll get a sponge strip under the plastic ends (not with medical tape around).

The machine will come with all major and most minor accessories. The missing accessories are:

wax and wax container;
tapensry needle (any needle of your choice will work)
bottle with oil. It was too old to use it. I recommend Hoppe’s gun oil available on Amazon.
The hard copy of the manual will also not be included, but it is available online for free.

The table clamps, tension mast (look below how white and shiny it is), carriage lock, and extension rails are all new. The needle indicator strip is also brand-new.

Some are brand new from old stock, and some from new stock. You will be the first owner to use them (well, I used them during my tests).

A set of original Brother punchcards (generic ones, especially made recently, are produced from significantly thinner sheets of plastic) is included, but the designs might be slightly different from those shown in the manual. Card #17 is missing, but I am including an additional five cards for fair-isle and lace. I am also including, as promised, a set of original blank Brother cards for making your own designs.

The machine did not come with its own carriage, but I found another carriage for KH830. Therefore, you will see some color differences. Additionally, some people are asking me whether I forgot to include a couple of screws while assembling the carriage back (see below). No, I did not. It was designed this way. The tension dial cap is also a replacement; thus, a slight color mismatch is present there as well.

The cast-on combs are in great shape. However, only the long one is the original one (it is grey-ish in color). The small one is a newer replacement (it is whiter) because the original one was bent out of shape too much.

The little knob/cover for the punchcard reader lever is a 3D-printed replacement. The punchcard rod is included. However, all the tests I performed were done without it (I don’t ever use it on other machines). So it is not a critical accessory at all.

All accessories fit nicely into the toolbox. The lid for the toolbox has a different level of discoloration (despite coming with this machine): I suspect it was either not used a lot (hidden somewhere away from sunlight) or was purchased later in the machine’s life. Thus, discoloration.

Last about discoloation: the place where the row counter is attached has the most contrast. make sense: the row counter is attached to the front panel, blocking it from the sunlight. Thus, no discoloration due to UV damage.

The cleaning brush that came with the machine has a chipped corner. This is the last original Brother brush I have. I am including this one instead of the generic ones because I find original Brother brushes much better (thicker and fuller, and bristles do not fall out easily).

Although I clean and machine before and after, some superficial dust/lint/puff might remain as an aftermath of my tests.

The toolbox has some staining inside (see below). The tool holding compartment (not shown) has some staining inside too: looks like somebody was keeping pens in there.

Despite yellowing and discoloration, the plastic parts are still very strong and sturdy.

The case overall is in great shape with only minor stains, bumps, and scratches.

The “most severe” imperfections are shown below.

A couple of comments about the knitting tests. Knitting on a full bed is important to demonstrate that the machine can handle the tension differences (which depend on the weights’ distribution, claw weights position, cast-on comb attachment, edge-weights, etc.) and that all needles produce correct stitches. All the tests I performed went great with this machine. The carriage was running smoothly, and at a perfect combination of yarn, tension, and lubrication could be moved with just one hand.

During the full-bed tests, I like using card #1 because incorrect needle selection will be seen immediately on the needlebed and on the knitted fabric. There was no mispatterning, which indicates a well-serviced punchcard mechanism, timing belt, carriage, and sinker plate.

The timing belt moves smoothly. I recommend moving (very slightly) the carriage back and forth (by just 1-2 mm) to ensure that the carriage is engaged correctly with the timing belt. You can see some of these movements in my video.

As you can also see in my video, the machine responds really well to changing knitting parameters. It handled the tension changes, as well as knitting using various stitches: slip, tuck, and fair isle. I used three different yarns. The bluish yarn has some texture (small boucle). The pink yarn (used in two-color fair-isle) is a very silky 100% acrylic yarn, prone to static.

The thickest yarn was used for lace patterns. The card used during my tests is included with your setup.

General recommendations:

Start with this thin yarn on a small number of needles
Slip-stitch requires tension that is a bit lower than stockinet
tuck-stitch requires tension even lower than slip-stitch. Read here on how to get successful tuck-stitch fabric.

Happy Knitting!

Brother Profile KH551 serviced in February 2026

Brother Profile knitting machine is a standard-gauge machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart. It has a push-button needle selection mechanism that allows to knit patterns. Read more about the pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. This post is dedicated to a specific Brother Profile 551 serviced in my shop in February 2026.

The carriage was cleaned and serviced (oiled as well). All levers and buttons move freely.

The machine was cleaned and oiled. The sponge strip in the retaining bar was replaced with a new one. The retaining bar is the original.

All the needles were inspected; first visually while I cleaned them, and then by knitting on all of them. I did discover a couple of faulty needles (one ofthe “finds” is shown in the video), which were replaced. To test all needles, I knitted several different patterns: plain stockinet, slip (or part) stitch with the patterning on every other needle as well as tuck-stitch. See the video. All needles formed correct stitches (but read below more on tuck).

I included a new needle indicator strip.

The machine comes with all major and most minor accessories.

Among the major accessories, the tension mast, the ratchet lever (it the video I used a different one but later replaced it with the original one), and the table brackets are original. The missing minor accessories are 1) one of the sinker plate yarn hangers (I am including the second one and if needed, one of a similar shape can be made from a paper clip. These are only needed for fair isel and/or weaving (refer to the manual)); 2) tool box, 3) case for the minor accessories and 4) the unravel cord (any silky strong thread will work as well). I forgot if I included a tapestry needle (sorry 🙁 ) but any needle of your choice with a wide eye works. I even included a small tube of good lookingmoriginal knitting machine oil. But for future lubing, order Hope’s gun oil on Amazon.

A hard copy of the manual, unfortunately, will not be included. I don’t even have my own copy. But it is available online for free.

The transfer tool set is not original (the original one has metal needle pushers/combs), but it is brand new. It includes the transfer tools, latch hook, and the 1×1 needle selection comb. The two other combs are not original either, but in great shape, and the selection-“teeth” correspond to those mentioned in the manual.

The replacement needles are not in the picture, but they are indeed included (I placed them inside the kit).

Things to pay attention to:

When removing the retaining bar to inspect the sponge strip or to replace the needles, the tape on its ends might come off. Securing the sponge strip ends with some sort of tape is a typical way of replacing these sponge strips. Just apply a fresh section of medical tape. Make sure not to wrap too much around: not even once, but just enough to attach the sponge and leave the top surface of the retaining bar exposed.
Check the position of the row counter once in a while. Because I had to loosen up the sliding bracket, it might become loose if the machine is not fastened strongly enough by the table clamps and vibrates a bit.
If the carriage starts making strange noises, check the sinker plate positioning (described in the video).
The manual online has a poor resolution. There are a couple of pdfs for the manuals for other pushbutton machines on that website. The position of the levers is the same. So, when uncertain: refer to those or message me.
If the cast-on comb teeth are slightly bent, apply gentle pressure (just with your hand) to bent them back. No extreme bent please so they dont snap.
Since there is no toolbox, I placed the tools inside the bubble wrap and placed it on the needlebed. They might fall out when you open the lid. I fastened the bubble wrap with purple masking tape. So if you see this tape, it is not to secure the lid and the case but to prevent the bubble wrap from sliding inside.

Imperfections:

it turned out that the cast-on ruler set that came with this machine is not the original one (the original ones are metal). They do not quite fit inside the lid’s brackets. But they are in such a great shape and match the color that I felt they should go with this machine. So, it might be quite frustrating to put them back into the lid, but this is the best way they are stored/travelled.

The handle has some minor cracks.

The row counter is not the original one, but it works great. I had to expand the socket a bit to accommodate its wider base so it will only go inthe middle position. The left- and right-hand rail-like placement slots can accommodate the tool holder. One in a while
Needle picker has some age-related discoloration but works fine. Watch a video I put together on how to use it.

There is a small section on the lid where a small connecting plate broke off. It was either glued or soldered on. It is such an awkward place and I just let it be. The lid is a tiny bit loose in that area but nothing too bad.

Other than that, the lid and the case are in great shape. There was some staining on the outside, which I cleaned, but some minor stains are still there (or maybe I am just seeing them after spending so much time trying to remove them 🙂 )

General advice on knitting, which is applicable to any machine:

pull the yarn up a bit when knitting on a large number of needles and turning the carriage to knit in the opposite direction; it will help to avoid looping on the edges and dropped stitches due to the tension change.
also, to avoid looping and dropped stitches on the sides, especially when a lot of needles are active, apply claw weights. I just realized that they are not in a typical setup but I’ll throw a couple into the package. Please, look for them.
Tuck-stitch might be a steep learning curve (see above) but with patience, you can do it!! General advice, especially when just learning your machine: when knitting tuck stitch, move the carriage slowly, watch for any signs of incorrect tension, watch for stitches that did not slide correctly, apply weight for tension on the fabric, and pull the yarn up when turning the carriage. All this might not be needed for some yarns but for some, it is a must, especially at the beginning of familiarizing yourself with your machine and its likes and dislikes. In the video, I made a mistake during yarn switching and some of the needles dropped stitches. This is why the tuck with pink yarn was not on all needles. But notice that I am not adjusting the stitches as I did with the grey yarn. Tuck overall is finicky: certain tension is needed, low static, oiled needles… just to name a few “issues”. The video shows some tricks.

Happy knitting!