Thoughts on knits

Brother KH601 knitting machine serviced in May 2024

Silver Reed SK120 knitting machine refurbished in May 2024

Needle positions of various flat-bed knitting machines

Two-color Fair Isle patterning on Brother KH800 and KH801 knitting machines.

First steps of testing and learning a new-to-you knitting machine.

Brother KH800 knitting machine, serviced and tested in March 2024

Vintage KnitLeader KL111 prepared for Sheryl, April 2024

Patterning mechanism of Brother KH800 and Brother KH801 knitting machines.

Simple projects for absolute beginners in flat-bed machine knitting.

Knitting a cowl/neck warmer/hat/beret on any flat-bed knitting machine.

Brother Knitting machines

Silver Reed Knitting machines

Brother KH601 knitting machine was released by Brother in the 1970s. It is a standard-gauge knitting machine with the needle selection performed by the pattern center and the 8-push buttons. Read more on pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia.

The machine discussed in this blog was refurbished by me in May 2024. I lenjoyed working with this model and learning its mechanisms.

The machine comes with all major accessories (lace carriage, cast-on combs, extension rails, tension mast). The standard set includes one long cast-on comb (for the full bed) and one short one. The short one did not come with this machine so I will include a cast-on comb from my stash but its color is slightly different: greenish (while the original is greyish).

Most minor accessories are included as well. The row counter is not the original one (the original emerald-color one was missing – so I included a brand new cream-colored row counter from my stash). A hard copy of the manual will be included as well.

The accessories that are NOT going to be included are: cast-on thread (any strong thin yarn will work) and a bottle with oil (use Gun Oil instead). Laying-in thread feeders are already attached onto the sinker plate. Also, the machine did not come with the 1×1 needle ruler and I think this is such a basic tool that I included one from my personal stash. It is not metal like the original needle selection rulers but does the job.

All minor accessories fit into the toolbox. Unfortunately, the old plastic became fragile and the box has several cracks. It still holds all the tools well and will be included with the machine.

The carriage of KH601 differs a bit from all other 8-pusbutton machines I knitted on (KH5552-KH588-KH710): it has a sliding hold cam lever in the middle of the carriage right under the tension dial instead of two levers on the side.

The writings on the carriage and on the pattern center are in Japanese. But the previous owner left some marks in English – so it will be easy to understand and follow the manual.

The hard copy of the manual that came with this machine shows a slightly different carriage (a more standard for 8-pushbutton machines – with side levers rather than with a slide lever above the buttons on the carriage). There is a one-page insert (provided by the manufacturer, I believe) that shows the setting for this particular carriage.

I recommend using the manual for the KH800 to guide you on the HCL position (the sliding lever above the TUCK, PLAIN, and PART buttons) during patterned knitting.

I thoroughly cleaned the machine, inspected and cleaned all the needles, replaced the sponge in the retaining bar, and cleaned and serviced the carriage (ensured all the levers, knobs, and buttons move freely). I then tested the needles by knitting various patterns on a full bed watch the video of these tests here).

All tests were passed with flying colors! The patterns I tested were the “butterfly” pattern with needles being held and then knitted, a 1×1 tuck pattern (the trickiest to execute out of all tuck-pattern, in my opinion) and a slip-stitch siz-zag pattern. All neeles worked great!

The knitted fabric was then converted into a reversible cowl/neck warmer/hood.

Now about imperfections:

Buttons #6 and #7 in the pattern center are a bit sluggish when are revered to the unpushed position. But only if they are unpushed by themselves. When pushed and then unpushed together, they are pretty perky. My video shows this flaw at the end but it did not affect the patterning or the knitting of the machine.
There are some minor scratches, stains and bends on the case and the lid (not shown here but I will document them when I pack the machine).
Cracked tool storage box. The lid for the storage box is a bit cracked too. (not shown)
The greenish cover for the tension dial has a small broken nugget that holds it in place. It sometimes gets loose. I did not glue it completely because it needs to be removable in case the carriage requires disassembling. It does not affect the functioning of the carriage or the tension dial.
The carriage has minor rust and metal discoloration spots. It did not affect the functioning of the carriage.

Overall, this machine behaved very well. With regular oiling and cleaning, it will serve your knitting needs for many years!

This machine as well as other machines with punchcard patterning capabilities can be purchased from my Etsy store, or in my independent shop (for less).

Not sure which machine is right for you? Read how to choose the right machine for your needs. Regardless of the machine you choose, check out easy-for-beginners projects for your first knitting machine. Also, check my website for a blog article on the first steps with your new-to-you knitting machine.

Have questions? Get in touch with me through FaceBook: https://www.facebook.com/MightyKnittyMachines

… still in progress. Finishing soon…

This machine is simple yet so pretty in its simplicity.

The machine i worked on was also marked as Kantan Bulky.

replaced a sponge bar. The retaining bar is very narrow for this machine. Thus, it was a challenge to find such a narrow sponge. After a long online search and consultation with numerous online chats and forums, I settled on a window seal strip with the glue on one side. It is more rubbery than spongy. It was also somewhat hard to insert but I finally got a hang of it (used a thin plastic knife and gently stuck it one inch at a time.

Although not ideal, this rubbery strip did a good job.

Why not ideal: it seems that the needles rub against it and remove small chunks. Because of this, I feel the rubbery strip will need to be replaced a bit more often than on other knitting machines. But I will include the extra strip that I have left – enough for 2-3 more replacements.

The machine handled thick yarns very well. The yarns I tried on this machine are:

Alara 50% acrylic/ 50% merino worsted yarn (50 g/ 100m). I knitted a top of a hat.

comes with all accessories with the exception of oil

comes with the toolbox still in excellent conditions

hard copy of the manual is not included but is found online for free.

Watch the video on how I inserted this rubbery sponge bar into this narrow retaining bar.

A – non-working position

B – standard working position

C, DI, DII – patterning positions

E – holding position

Basic (manual) knitting machines
Machine Model number	Needle Positions

4-Pushbutton machines
KH511
KH521	A	B	C	DI	DII	E
KH531	A	B	C	DI	DII	E
(Profile) KH551	A	B	C	DI	DII	E
8-Pushbutton machines
KH552	A	B	C	DI	DII	E
KH561	A	B	C	D		E
KH571	A	B	C	D		E
KH581
(Profile) KH583	A	B	C	D		E
KH585	A	B	C	D		E
Profile 585	A	B	C	DI	DII	E
KH587	A	B	C	DI	DII	E
KH588	A	B	C	DI	DII	E
KH601
(Genie) KH710	A	B	C	DI	DII	E
12-stitch punchcard machines
KH800, KH801	A	B	C	DI	DII	E
24-stitch punchcard machines
KH830, KH840, KH890	A	B		D		E
Electronic machines
KH900, KH910, KH930, KH940, KH950, KH965, KH970

These unique knitting machines, Brother KH800 and KH801, make it super easy to make punch cards and knit various patterns.

However, as I started to explore the steps on how to knit these various patterns, I discovered that the manual does not really present all the steps clearly, especially for the two-color fair isle knitting. So, a combination of researching manuals of similarly (with a ratchet) working push-button machines and my own trial & error, will be presented to you below as an attempt to ease up your learning of how to operate these wonderful machines. I also made a video of how I knitted a fair isle on my own Brother KH800 machine.

Before you even start, take a look at your main carriage. Find the N/T/MC knob in the top-right corner (we’ll need the MC settings). Please find the button on the carriage (we’ll need to push both PART buttons in). The slide lever on the carriage is on the settings “3”.

The change lever on the right-hand side of the needle bed in the top corner should be moved to MC.

These are the components we need to pay attention to to change to knit fair isle on Brother KH800 and KH801 knitting machines.

Preparation: knit several rows of stockinet in the main color. The second yarn is threaded into the left-hand side wire of the tension mast.

Step 1. The carriage is on the left side. On the carriage, set the change knob to MC and establish the desired tension (a two-color fair isle is recommended to knit at higher tension numbers). MC change lever is also at the MC setting. Holding cam lever (HCL) is at the setting “3”. Insert a desired punchcard and pull the step indicator up (“unlock” position) so it advances every time we knit one row.

Step 2. Move the carriage to the right. All needles will shift to DI position. Push both PART buttons on the carriage. Double-check your tension. Guide/insert the second yarn into the slot on the left side of the sinker plate.

The manual for the KH800/KH801 knitting machines does a very poor job of showing how to insert/guide the second yarn into the slide slot of the sinker plate. I found an excellent demonstration in the manual for the KH710 knitting machine, which has very similar steps to the knitting fair isle. Also, watch my video on how I did it.

Step 3. Move the ratchet tool to move the needles according to the punch card. Notice they will split into the DI and DII positions. The needles that will knit with the second yarn remained in the DI position. The needles that will knit with the main yarn will move to the DII position. Move the carriage to the left while holding the second yarn gently (watch the video).

Step 4. Before moving the carriage back to the right, activate the needle selection for the second row: move the ratchet tool. As you move the carriage to the right, place the contrasting yarn onto the right-hand side guide of the sinker plate. Also, make sure that the row indicator moves after you pass the V-shaped trigger. If the row indicator does not move, pull it upwards.

Continue these steps.

The same approach can be used on fair isle patterning on pushbutton machines, like Brother KH585, KH588, KH581, KH552, KH601, etc. The carriages for the pushbutton machines and for the 12-stitch punchcard models KH800 and KH801 are the same (except for the slide lever – the 8-pushbutton machines have side levers for the same purpose). Thus, after the needle selection, all consequent actions are very similar for all these machines.

Happy Knitting!

…this post is a collection of tests and tricks I use when I test knitting machines I refurbish. It is a continuous work in progress as I learn more about various knitting machines.

Brother KH800 knitting machine

$625 machine + $110 shipping (with insurance)

$735.00

This blog is about a specific Brother KH800 knitting machine, which I cleaned, serviced, and tested in March 2024.

To learn about the Brother KH800 model, with all its pros and cons, read my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia.

All needles were removed, cleaned, serviced, and inspected. The sponge in the retaining bar was replaced. The case and the lid were wiped thoroughly but I did not subject the case and the lid to excessive rubbing to remove all staining. So some stains remain. The same applies to the plastic panel: I was able to remove most of the dirt and grime but some minor staining might still be visible.

I installed new weaving brushes (it is typically a pain in the butt to do it – so take good care of them). The old ones completely fell apart. They are not black as the original ones but white with strong bristles.

The machine will come with all major accessories (which fit inside the knitting machine case lid):

extension rails (to accommodate the lace carriage if you are using one or to accommodate the main carriage when you are knitting on the full bed)
tension mast
lace carriage
big and small cast on combs

Most critical minor accessories are included too:

metal 1×1 needle pusher
claw weights (greenish. like the machine)
latch and transfer tools as well as crochet needle
set of 3 spare needles
carriage lock
puncher
table clamps
set lever (also known as ratchet tool)
cleaning hand brush (good for cleaning carriage and removing some lint between the needles)
two carriage handles (one for the main carriage and one for the lace carriage)
row counter (I specifically looked for a greenish row counter to match the machine)

The minor accessories that are NOT included are marked below. These minor accessories do not affect the functioning of the machine. But read below about the punch and pattern cards.

The parafin is only needed for the yarns that are prone to static. The pen is actually for the knit leader and not for the machine. The greaze was old and I tossed it away. Any gun oil will work to service this machine. Any strong thin yarn can serve as a cast-on or waste-yarn thread.

All minor advisories are stored inside the built-in box with the lid.

The handles for both carriage are screw on and are also stored in this storage box. The carriage moves very smoothly on the needlebed.

The machine did not come with the original hard copy of the manual. It can still be found online for free. I can include a printed copy that came with this machine – just let me know but it might add to the weight (1-2 lbs) of the shipping package.

Even though the original pattern and punchcards are missing, it is very easy to make your own cards. I made a video on how to do it and described it in another blog. Follow the links for free pdf-files for the blank and pre-patterned cards. In my video, I printed out and used those cards.

Also, the cards are very easily to make (punch). Simply insert the cut-out of a new card into the punchcard reader and punch the wholes either using the punch provided or using a simple pencil. I describe it in my other blog and show it in my video as well.

The machine can be easily attached to a knit leader using the triangular tripper and the rod above it. Read on the manual of a specific knit leader on how to attach the machine to it.

I knitted several swatches (tuck, slip, stockinet and fair isle) on this machine to ensure the carriage functions properly. I also knitted on the full bed to ensure all needles form proper stitches and that the patterning mechanism works well on the whole needlebed. Watch the video of all tests. The picture below shows the tuck-stitch fabric knitted during these tests.

Check out my blog and a video (…coming soon) on the fair isle patterning on this machine. It was quite interesting.

The panel I knitted during all these tests was converted to this 3-in-1 berett/cowl/hood shown below.

Turned out pretty good!!

Now about imperfections:

The most obvious imperfection is the scratches on the main carriage. They seem to be just cosmetic and did not affect the functioning of the machine.

All other impefections are also cosmetic. Like some minor dents and scratches on the lid and the case (not shown).

KnitLeader KL111 + customer’s ship label

$44 + customer provides shipping label

$44.00

KL111 knitleader has all major accessories, including a good-looking hard copy of the manual, mylar sheets, scales, ruler and very important triangular brackets. The post below is about a particular knit leader but to know more details about the KL111 model, refer to my other post.

I did not test the knit leader on the machine but all the buttons, knobs and levers move freely. I inspected it thoroughly and wiped easy-to-remove dust and grime. Some stains remained – I do not like rubbing the plastic parts too extensively out of fear of damaging this old plastic even more.

The ratchet with the white handle is missing. So I will include the ribber spanner that fits well although is not as ergonomic as the original one. The handle can be improved a bit by applying several layers of tape.

The long scales seem like were never used. The mylar sheet also looks in great shape.

The knit leader tripped will be included if your carriage did not come with one.

The control center is in great shape also:

Below are some imperfections I noticed when preparing the knit leader. Most are the different degrees of staining on the boxy of the knit leader.

Brother knitting machines with model numbers KH800 and KH801 have a very unique patterning mechanism: a combination of a punchcard reader with the ratchet tool activating the needle being pushed forward (also known as “needle selection”)

When I was refurbishing a Brother KH800, I had to open the case up to see why the machine was mispatterning. I, thus, had a lot of fun looking at how the patterning works. (By the way, mispatterning was due to the selection strips/plates being tucked together – nothing that a good layer of Kroil oil can’t fix).

Brother KH8000 and KH801 accept punchcards with 12 holes. There are also twelve selection rods.

Punchcard-reader pins poke through the holes in the punchcard when the ratchet tool is moved.

This pattern is then transferred to the patterning rods, which move according to the holes in the punchcard (see the video).

Notice in the picture below how the distance between the rods is no longer even because some of the rods were activated and some were not. This “activation selection” is determined by the punchcard pattern. I was testing this machine with the punchcard with every other hole unpunched.

These rods determine which tabs are pushed towards the needles.

Notice below how these tabs push forward only every other needle….

…according to our punchcard pattern.

Here is a closer look at these patterning tabs. Notice they are grouped in twelve.

Another view from a different angle:

So, if your machine mispatterns, it is very likely due to this mechanism. The good news is: it is probably easy to fix since everything is 100% mechanical.

Although I did not really open up any of the pushbutton machines (4-button like KH551 or 8-button like KH581, KH585, KH588, KH710, etc.) to watch their needle selection mechanism, I suspect that it is performed the same way as on Brother KH800 and KH801.

Even 24-stitch punchcard-reading knitting machines (KH8XX series, like KH840 and KH891) have similar patterning rods.

This article lists several short overviews of projects very friendly for machine knitters who are just beginning to knit on their machines and are tired of just making swatches. To know more about the specific details, click on the title which will reroute you to the article describing that project and a video link. Enjoy and let me know how it went!

1. Cord

Knitting a cord on your flatbed knitting machine is very easy and fast. These cords can be used for a variety of projects. I use them to insert into hats, bags, and socks as strings but also for decorations.

Read step-by-step instructions here.

2. Cowl/neck warmer.

This project can be done on a full bed of any flat-bed machine (mid, standard or bulky gauge) with or without patterning capabilities. No swatches are needed. While working on this project you will learn how to 1) cast on with waste yarn, 2) create mock-ribbing, 3) fold the knitted fabric over, 4) cast off, 5) knit a cord and 6) make a buttonhole. You will need to know on your own how to sew panels together (mattress stitch or whatever stitch you feel comfortable with). You will also learn about how 1) your machine knits across the full bed, and 2) how all your needles function (whether you have sticky latches or badly forming stitches). It is a fun project and can be done with any yarn of your choice (as long as it knits on the machine of your choice).

Read the full description here.

3. Simple 1 x 1 rib hat.

For this project, you will need a flatbed knitting machine and a ribber attached to it. By doing this project you will learn how to operate your machine with the ribber, how to adjust/attach side weights, and how to cast on and cast off. It is a fun and very easy project to do. The knitted panel can be finished as a hat or as a neck warmer

4. Vintage girl’s hat, bandana- or headscarf-like shape, with cables

With this simple project, you will learn increases/decreases, buttonhole making, and simple cables. Optional ribbing on the front can be done by hand, on the ribber, or left as is. Can be done on standard, mid-gauge or bulky knitting machines in a similar way. No gauge calculations are needed

5. Christmas Bag for presents and decor.

With this project, you will learn how to make a two-color cord, knit mock-ribbing, to make a buttonhole, basic fair-isle patterning, as well as optional tuck- and slip-stitch patterning, cord making, as well as optional usage of garter bar (but can be done without it as well). You will need to know how to insert the cord into the folded fabric, and how to sew panels together (using basic stitching like back-stitch or mattress stitch).

Best if done on a punch card or electronic knitting machine for faster fair-isle patterning with two colors.

Machine Model number

Needle Positions

I knitted several variations of these cowls/neck-warmers. In fact, this is my favorite project to do while I am testing knitting machines. The reasons are:

This project is done on a full bed, thus, I am checking whether all needles function and knit properly.
This project can be done on any-gauge flat-bed knitting machine (mid, standard or bulky gauge) with or without patterning capabilities. Just choose the correct yarn for your gauge.
No need to count your rows and stitches to calculate gauge, and no worries about changing tensions
While knitting this hat, you will learn about the appropriate tension for the yarn I chose and how your machine will handle different yarns. I start with knitting on every other needle which is easier on the carriage if the yarn is too thick (thus, if you are experiencing problems with knitting on every-other-needle, that means the yarn is definitely too thick).
It is a very easy project and fun. You will not only know you knitting machine better but in the process, you will make something wearable either for yourself, your friends, and relatives or for charity.

While working on this project you will learn how to 1) cast on with waste yarn, 2) create mock-ribbing, 3) fold the knitted fabric over, 4) cast off, 5) knit a cord and 6) make a buttonhole. You will need to know the basic stitches of sewing knitted fabric, like back-stitch, and mattress stitch, and, what yarn is good for you machine.

Below are the instructions on how I knitted the cowl/neck warmer/hood/hat below.

If some steps are unclear, refer to the video tutorial I created. These steps were performed on the Brother machine. Thus, some steps are specific to Brother machines only (like cast-on combs and the part button) but if you already know how to start knitting without the cast-on comb and how to make your machine knit in partial mode in one way, you can easily adjust those instructions below.

Additionally, the project I describe below was made on the standard-gauge knitting machine.

Step 1: Cast-on and knitting mock-ribbing.

With your 1×1 needle selection ruler, bring every-other-needle to the working position (typically B-position).
Run the carriage from right to left and back to even out all needles.
Rezero the row counter.
Thread the waste yarn into the carriage and knit one row.
Hang the cast-on comb
Knit several rows until you are sure all stitches are established well.
Knit one row of contrasting strong yarn or with an unravel cord.
Rezero the row counter again.
Thread the main yarn into the carriage. Hang an optional barrel weight onto the middle of the cast-on comb.
Knit 10 rows.
Make a buttonhole. We will use it to insert the cord into the folded mock-ribbing. For this purpose, remove the stitch closest to the zero-position and put it onto the next needle in working positions. Move the just-emptied needle back to the B-position (standard working position).
Knit 10 more rows.
Fold the mock-ribbing. First, remove the cast-on comb. Then, using a one-eyelet tool, transfer the stitches that are right above the contrasting yarn (remember – the one row we knitted in sub-step 7 above?) onto the needles in non-working positions. Watch this step in the video at approximately 3 min 25 s position. After the stitches were transferred, make sure the needle is in the B-position. Continue for the rest of the fabric.

Grab the stitch right above the contrasting yarn….

…and put it on to empty the needle (in A, non-working, position) on the right.

Step 2: Knitting the main section

Optional: After the mock ribbing was folded, attach the cast-on comb to the section knitted with waste yarn. Increase the tension dial number by 1-3 numbers and knit one row. Because we just went from knitting on every-other-needle to knitting on all needles, it might be too tight to knit this very first row on the full bed. This is what we are loosening the yarn tension.
Knit 80 rows. (In my demo, I knitted simple stockinet stitch. But you can knit any pattern you desire.) It is about 7-8 inches of the knitted fabric. If you want to make a longer cowl/neck-warmer, or a deeper bonnett, knit more rows. Also, if knitting on a bulky or mid-gauge machine, you might need fewer rows. 7-8 inches of the knitted fabric is a good approximation to get a good size cowl/neck warmer/hat/hood.

Step 3: Second mock-ribbing

Using a one-eyelet tool, transfer the stitches from the every-other-needle to the neighboring needle. Move the needle without the stitch to A position (non-working position, pushed all the way in). Watch the video at 6 min 54 s if this step is unclear. I am also showing in the video that you can use an adjustable stitch transfer tool to move 2-4 stitches at a time. The adjustable tool can be purchased in my independent store or in my Etsy store.
Continue for the rest of the needles. Optional but helpful: hang a claw-weight on the edge of the knitted fabric next to the stitches you are transferring. The transfer will go a bit smoother without snagged yarn.
Increase the yarn tension by 2, i.e., decrease the tension dial by the number 2.
Knit 10 rows on every other needle.
Make a buttonhole as described above in step 1.11. After that knit 10 more rows. Or continue knitting for 10 more rows without making the buttonhole. Maybe you do not want the cord in the second ribbing. I also show in the video that the cord can be inserted into the mock-ribbing fabric without the buttonhole. So, at the end of this step you should have 20 rows of mock ribbing.
Folding the second mock-ribbing: using a one-eyelet tool, transfer stitches from the 1st row of this mock ribbing to the needle in the working position. (See the video for details). In words: find the stitch right above the hole (created when we transferred every other needle) onto the working needle right above it. Continue for the rest of the panel. Even out the needles to be as close to the B-position as possible.
Optional: Hang the cast-on comb with the weight onto the just-folded fabric. Loosen the yarn tension (increase the tension on the carriage dial by 1-2 numbers).
Knit one row.

Step 4: Cast-off

Remove the yarn from the carriage. Let it hang free on the side.
Remove the cast-on comb.
Using the one-eyelet tool, remove the stitch on the very edge of the needle bed and transfer it to the next needle. Manually knit a stitch on this needle (see the video for visual reference). The manipulations in this step are similar to the cast-off in hand-knitting. Continue for the rest of the needle bed.
Close the last stitch and take the panel off the bed. Secure the last stitch with a knot.
Hint: when making a stitch, push the last needle (with a needle with two stitches) to the A-position. In this case, it creates a long stitch and a loose cast-off seam.
Optional: hang the claw weight on the fabric below the last needle in the working position. It will create tension on the fabric for easier removal of the stitches from the needles. Rehang as you cast-off the stitches.

Step 5: Sewing the panels together.

Remove the contrasting yarn by pulling it out of the knitted panel.
Remove the waste-yarn-knitted section. It will come off very easily after the contrasting thread is removed.
Fold the fabric with the right sides touching each other (stockinet sides, in my case).
Start sewing the fabric at the folded section. Match the internal sides of the folded section first. I like using backstitch for such seams (but it actually does not matter how it looks because this will be hidden inside the fold), moving to the outside edges. I like using a mattress-like stitching technique on the outer edges of the folded section of my knitted panel. After the fold, keep on sewing, again with the stitch of your choice. I like back-stitch – it creates very knit edges and seams on both sides.
After reaching the second folded section, again, sew first the internal panels of the fold using a back-stitch and then the external sides using a mattress stitch. Hide the ends of the yarn used to sew the panels.

Step 5: Cord making

Make two cords, roughly 30 inches long. Use your favorite method or make it on your flat-bad knitting machine (follow the steps outlined in my other article).
Secure the ends of the cord: make a knot and then sew through the knot with the remaining yarn (watch my video on cord-making).

Step 6. Inserting the cords.

Insert a safety pin into the knot of the end of the cord.
Insert the safety pin head into the “button hole” we created.
Thread the safety pin with the cord through the fold and pull out from the fold through the “button hole”.
Do the same with the second cord on the second fold. Hint: if you forget to make a button hole, the 1×1 mock stitch ribbing is loose enough where you can insert the head of the safety pin through the stitches.

Happy Knitting!

The same approach can be used for patterned panels, like those shown below.

It can also be done on bulky and mid-gauge machines. Choose a variegated yarn for best effect: