Category: 4-button

Brother Profile 551 (KH551) knitting machine serviced and tested in my shop in May 2026

Brother Profile 551 knitting machine is an amazing miracle of Japanese engineering. This knitting machine has 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart, and all mechanical patterning capabilities. Read more about the pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of this post is dedicated to a specific Brother Profile KH551 serviced and tested in my shop in May 2016.

I performed the usual maintenance on this machine as I always do: removed all the needles, cleaned and inspected them. The bent needles were discarded and replaced with new ones. Some needles were polished until they were smooth. To further ensure that all needles formed correct stitches, I knitted on the full needlebed (see the video). I knitted stockinet, hold-, tuck-, and slip/part stitches, and all went really well! In addition, read my short article on tuck stitch if you experience problems with tuck stitch.

The needlebed, the carriage, and the sinker plate are in good shape, especially considering the age of this machine. See below some cosmetic imperfections on the carriage. The carriage runs very smoothly. Suppose you feel it does not run smoothly, oil (as shown in the manual), and reattach the sinker plate. The needle selection and the buttons work great, too. Also, at the end of my video, I show how to correctly activate the needle selection mechanism.

The machine will come with all necessary accessories. A lot of original accessories with a couple of minor exceptions. The S-shaped table clamps are original, but I had to cover them with a layer of Rustoleum. The transfer tools are original as well and are even in the original case (a better picture is below with a row counter). A set of claw weights is not part of the original setup, but I am including a pair because it is a very handy accessory to have. They are brand new (new stock).

The 1×1/0 needle selection ruler is original, but the other two are plastic replacements from new stock.

The tension mast and the cast-on combs are in great shape, especially considering their age.

The carriage lock is original.

The ratchet tool is a replacement. I used it during all the tests shown in the video. The needle picker is a 3D-printed copy and works well. The cleaning brush is a generic replacement. Not sure if the tapestry needle is the original, but it came with the machine. The wax is a bit crumbled, but if you need it, it will provide a good starting point. As a thank you for your patience and an apology for not having all other original tools in stock, I am including an adjustable needle transfer tool. I think it is original (not the new-stock generic), but the sticker is no longer attached to it.

The accessories that are missing are: the toolbox and its lid, the tool holder, and yarn hangers (easy to replace with a paper clip), and machine oil (use Hoppe’s gun oil available on Amazon).

I included a replacement needle indicator strip. The original ones that come with KH551 machines are transparent. The strip that I included is not new, but from one of the older machines to complement the vintage look of this machine.

The case and the lid are in great shape. Read below about some minor cosmetic imperfections.

About imperfections:

The tension dial on the carriage has some dents. It, however, still works well and provides reliable tension.

The carriage handle has a minor crack. It is, at the moment, the best handle I have to offer. I’ve seen handles in much worse shape, and they were still working fine. When attaching the handle onto the carriage, screw both sides at the same rate: a couple of turns on the left, then a couple of turns on the right, etc. The same with unscrewing/removing.

The raw counter is original, but the front panel had a crack. I secured it with super glue. The row counter otherwise works well (see the demo at the end of the video).

The lid and the case have some very minor stains and dents. Some of them are shown below.

Apparently, the handle has an opening in the metal cover. First, I thought it was a defect, but all other machines have the same feature. So, no alarm here.

None of these imperfections affected any functioning of the machine.

Happy knitting!

Brother Profile KH551 serviced in February 2026

Brother Profile knitting machine is a standard-gauge machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart. It has a push-button needle selection mechanism that allows to knit patterns. Read more about the pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. This post is dedicated to a specific Brother Profile 551 serviced in my shop in February 2026.

The carriage was cleaned and serviced (oiled as well). All levers and buttons move freely.

The machine was cleaned and oiled. The sponge strip in the retaining bar was replaced with a new one. The retaining bar is the original.

All the needles were inspected; first visually while I cleaned them, and then by knitting on all of them. I did discover a couple of faulty needles (one ofthe “finds” is shown in the video), which were replaced. To test all needles, I knitted several different patterns: plain stockinet, slip (or part) stitch with the patterning on every other needle as well as tuck-stitch. See the video. All needles formed correct stitches (but read below more on tuck).

I included a new needle indicator strip.

The machine comes with all major and most minor accessories.

Among the major accessories, the tension mast, the ratchet lever (it the video I used a different one but later replaced it with the original one), and the table brackets are original. The missing minor accessories are 1) one of the sinker plate yarn hangers (I am including the second one and if needed, one of a similar shape can be made from a paper clip. These are only needed for fair isel and/or weaving (refer to the manual)); 2) tool box, 3) case for the minor accessories and 4) the unravel cord (any silky strong thread will work as well). I forgot if I included a tapestry needle (sorry 🙁 ) but any needle of your choice with a wide eye works. I even included a small tube of good lookingmoriginal knitting machine oil. But for future lubing, order Hope’s gun oil on Amazon.

A hard copy of the manual, unfortunately, will not be included. I don’t even have my own copy. But it is available online for free.

The transfer tool set is not original (the original one has metal needle pushers/combs), but it is brand new. It includes the transfer tools, latch hook, and the 1×1 needle selection comb. The two other combs are not original either, but in great shape, and the selection-“teeth” correspond to those mentioned in the manual.

The replacement needles are not in the picture, but they are indeed included (I placed them inside the kit).

Things to pay attention to:

  • When removing the retaining bar to inspect the sponge strip or to replace the needles, the tape on its ends might come off. Securing the sponge strip ends with some sort of tape is a typical way of replacing these sponge strips. Just apply a fresh section of medical tape. Make sure not to wrap too much around: not even once, but just enough to attach the sponge and leave the top surface of the retaining bar exposed.
  • Check the position of the row counter once in a while. Because I had to loosen up the sliding bracket, it might become loose if the machine is not fastened strongly enough by the table clamps and vibrates a bit.
  • If the carriage starts making strange noises, check the sinker plate positioning (described in the video).
  • The manual online has a poor resolution. There are a couple of pdfs for the manuals for other pushbutton machines on that website. The position of the levers is the same. So, when uncertain: refer to those or message me.
  • If the cast-on comb teeth are slightly bent, apply gentle pressure (just with your hand) to bent them back. No extreme bent please so they dont snap.
  • Since there is no toolbox, I placed the tools inside the bubble wrap and placed it on the needlebed. They might fall out when you open the lid. I fastened the bubble wrap with purple masking tape. So if you see this tape, it is not to secure the lid and the case but to prevent the bubble wrap from sliding inside.

Imperfections:

  • it turned out that the cast-on ruler set that came with this machine is not the original one (the original ones are metal). They do not quite fit inside the lid’s brackets. But they are in such a great shape and match the color that I felt they should go with this machine. So, it might be quite frustrating to put them back into the lid, but this is the best way they are stored/travelled.
  • The handle has some minor cracks.

  • The row counter is not the original one, but it works great. I had to expand the socket a bit to accommodate its wider base so it will only go inthe middle position. The left- and right-hand rail-like placement slots can accommodate the tool holder. One in a while
  • Needle picker has some age-related discoloration but works fine. Watch a video I put together on how to use it.
  • There is a small section on the lid where a small connecting plate broke off. It was either glued or soldered on. It is such an awkward place and I just let it be. The lid is a tiny bit loose in that area but nothing too bad.
  • Other than that, the lid and the case are in great shape. There was some staining on the outside, which I cleaned, but some minor stains are still there (or maybe I am just seeing them after spending so much time trying to remove them 🙂 )

General advice on knitting, which is applicable to any machine:

  • pull the yarn up a bit when knitting on a large number of needles and turning the carriage to knit in the opposite direction; it will help to avoid looping on the edges and dropped stitches due to the tension change.
  • also, to avoid looping and dropped stitches on the sides, especially when a lot of needles are active, apply claw weights. I just realized that they are not in a typical setup but I’ll throw a couple into the package. Please, look for them.
  • Tuck-stitch might be a steep learning curve (see above) but with patience, you can do it!! General advice, especially when just learning your machine: when knitting tuck stitch, move the carriage slowly, watch for any signs of incorrect tension, watch for stitches that did not slide correctly, apply weight for tension on the fabric, and pull the yarn up when turning the carriage. All this might not be needed for some yarns but for some, it is a must, especially at the beginning of familiarizing yourself with your machine and its likes and dislikes. In the video, I made a mistake during yarn switching and some of the needles dropped stitches. This is why the tuck with pink yarn was not on all needles. But notice that I am not adjusting the stitches as I did with the grey yarn. Tuck overall is finicky: certain tension is needed, low static, oiled needles… just to name a few “issues”. The video shows some tricks.

Happy knitting!

Brother KH521 knitting machine for Kate

Brother KH521 knitting machine is a standard-gauge machine with 200 needles and four pushbuttons to activate the needle selection mechanism with an automatic 4-stitch repeat pattern. Read more about the pros and cons of this machine in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The article in the Encyclopedia was put together using a lot of information I got while testing a specific machine described further in the post.

This post is dedicated to Brother KH521, serviced and tested in my shop in January 2026 for a customer.

First of all, this machine is so cute, and even though it looks vintage, it works like a trooper! It is overall in great shape, no rust, and has most of the accessories. The picture below shows accessories for the Brother KH511 machine. The setups between KH511 and KH521 are identical, with the exception of the carriages: they look different but work under the same principle and are interchangeable. So are their corresponding sinker plates.

After the usual maintenance (cleaned, inspected, and oiled the needlebed, needles, and carriage; replaced sponge in the retaining bar), I ran numerous tests on a small number of needles and on a full bed to make sure all the needles form correct stitches, and the machine operates over the whole needlebed correctly. All the tests are documented in this video. Sometimes needles knit stockinet stitch OK, but struggle with tuck. Therefore, I want to make sure ALL needles form correct stitches. The main stitches are: stockinette, slip and tuck. fair isle is knit as slip/part and was not tested.

Plain (stockinet) and slip-stitch were very easy and straightforward to knit, on both swatches and a full needlebed. However, please, still pay attention to the tension on the mast: if after finishing the row, two or more needle butts are pushed forward due to the yarn tension, the tension is very likely too high. Adjust it accordingly. If only one or none, the tension is ok. If the loops are forming on the sides, the tension is too loose. Paying attention to the yarn on tension on the mast is especially (and extremel important) when knitting on a full bed with a tuck-stitch or with more than just a swatch number of needles.

To adjust tension, experiment with how the yarn is fed through the steps shown in the manual. For example, if the tension is too high, skip step D, or pass the yarn on different sides of the small lever in D. At the end of my tests video, I briefly show how I threaded skipping step D becuase the tension was too high and the mast bent too much.

If the tension is still problematic, use the extra tension mast I am providing (see below).

In fact, when I knitted tuck-stitch on the full bed, I could not achieve an even enough tension with the original mast but had no problems when I used the replacement mast. Its adjustable tension cylinders provide more even tension even if the carriage is moved to the far left or far right sides.

The machine came with a full set of all original accessories. Cast on combs are in great shape. In fact, all accessories are in great shape.

The accessories that will not be included are:

  • hard copy of the manual. Use the combination of the manuals: KH531, and KH551 for patterning and setup. For general tips, manuals for other 4- and 8-pushbutton machines are useful too.
  • Cast-on thread is not included. Use any silky, and strong yarn/thread.
  • Although not shown in the diagram above, the original setup contained an oil bottle, but it is too old to use. Use Hoppe’s oil available on Amazon.

The writing on the carriage is in Japanese. Refer to the manual for details. As a quick reference, the two left-hand side buttons are “tuck”, the middle button is “plain” knitting or to reset the buttons and the right-hand side buttons are “part” or “slip”.

The row counter works great. Since it is a bit on the super vintage side, the knobs on the back (to change numbers) move only in one direction. So, to rezero, simply keep rotating the knobs until you reach zero. (In later models, the knobs on the row counters rotate in both directions). I kinda like it because I never remember in which direction to rotate to faster achieve zero… and then if I move in the wrong direction, the second dial switches…. Well, it turns out to be the same number of rotations 🙂

I included a new needle indicator (the strip under the needles showing the needle numbers). I will also include (new-stock) light-weight claw weights as I think they are important to have (put them on the edges of the fabric). The matching ribber Brother KR321 will have claw weights but they are somewhat heavy-duty and might be too heavy for knitting on just a single bed.

I will include an additional tension mast: it is not perfect but it is what I can spare at the moment so you will have the original tension mast and an additional tension setup to avoid problems with tension like I did when knitted tuck. The wax disk on the tension mast below will come with it too. It is not new but still has a lot of life in it.

A couple of words of wisdom.

  • When learning how to work with this machine (all machines are so different and all have their own temperaments), experiment with different speeds and how you shuttle the carriage back and forth. Sometimes is moving too fast, the carriage drops stitches. Moving too slowly might create loose tension and loops on the ends of the knitted fabric

ABOUT IMPERFECTIONS:

  • there are a couple of uneven spots on the needlebed (you see them in the video and in the pictures below, although it is hard to see). I see a lot of those in these vintage machines. It does not interfere with quality knitting.
  • the lid has some spots where the paint came off. However, it is in great conditions otherwise especially considering the age of the machine: no major bumps or scratches.
  • One end cap has some rust spots. I typically cover those with silver Rustoleum, but this time I feel it would damage the authenticity of the machine. The endcaps are smooth and shiny, and a layer of Rustoleum would ruin it. The other end cap is in much better shape.

Brother KR321 ribber tested in my shop on Brother KH521 knitting machine

Brother KR321 ribbing attachment complements vintage manual/basic and four-pushbutton Brother knitting machines. Read more about this model in my Knitting machine Encyclopedia. The post below is dedicated to a specific ribber serviced in my shop in February 2026.

The ribber is in very good shape. However, I still cleaned it, inspected the needles, serviced, oiled and cleaned the carriage. The sponge in the retaining bar was replaced. The metal retaining bar is original.

The ribber is very easy to install/attach. It is easy to maintain distance between the ribber and the machine (which is important).

To test the ribber, carriage functions, and to check if all needles form correct stitches, I knitted on the full bed. All this is documented in this video. All needles formed correct stitches. I knitted on two sets of every-other needle to check that. The machine knits beautiful ribbing. Please be mindful when choosing thicker yarns or textured yarns. I will include a partial cone with yarn that I used in my tests (the dark green yarn),

I spent quite a lot of time familiarizing myself with this ribber and learning about it. I followed the manual for the original cast-on instructions. They are shown in this video. This original method recommends suspending the cast-on comb on the needlebed before the first row is knit. However, the cast-on can be hung after as well (similar to just the usual knitting).

However, I quickly discovered that the original wire hangers do not attach well when too many needles are used for knitting. Thus, I am including the wire-hangers from KR830 with smaller ends to get through the free section between the ribber and the main bed. The small barrel weights (also from KR830) seem to be a better fit than all weights included with the standard setup, so I am including those as well.

I also think, if not absolutely necessary, it is better to knit, leaving 5-6 needles on each side in a non-working position. In this case, it is easier to insert the side weights (on wire-hangers), to distribute weight evenly on the cast-on comb and to better see if the cast-on comb and other weights are not getting caught on something.

The ribber will come with all its “official” accessories, according to the manual. The setup comes with a generous number of replacement needles.

I am including additional accessories: barrel weights, wire-hangers with a round end, and table clamps with a less sharp S-angle. I’ll also include the remaining strip for the sponge bar (please, keep it in a dark place away from fumes and light to extend its longevity).

Imperfections:

  • Retaining bar with a fresh sponge strip is a bit hard to insert and remove (see below).
  • couple of the bar-weights that came with the ribber have minor rust spots on them
  • Carriage knobs have tiny cracks. I super-glued the most cracked, and it holds well. It did not affect the knitting and the knobs move up and down well.
  • I am not sure what the original design of the handle is supposed to look like, but this metal feature on the handle protrudes a bit.
  • Well, talking about the handle: it is not critical, but screw it on evenly: a little bit on one side, then a bit on the other, so it goes on evenly.

Several more words of wisdom and things to pay attention to:

  • when assembling and disassembling the sinker plate to remove or accommodate the brush-arm assembly, pay attention to how the brush arm assembly goes in. It has the yarn guide, which is important for correctly forming the stitches. It might touch the pegs if incorrectly set up or cause problems when knitting tuck.
  • If you need to remove it to replace the needle, stick a pencil (with an eraser on its end) into the retaining-bar channel and gently hammer on it until the other end of the retaining bar shows on another end. Then grab pliers and remove it. I noticed that with time (for those couple of weeks I was testing the ribber), it became easier as the sponge was probably being compressed a bit). I tried to use different kinds of retaining bars: plastic ones like in later models, but they did not hold the needle,s and they were not even staying in the working position (sliding back). And I could not find any other narrow enough spongy material to fit.
  • If you feel that the arm-brush assembly is touching the ribber needles, pull the arm a bit towards you and then fasten the oyster clamps.
  • When knitting a small section on the ribber, using the original setup is ok (I did not encounter any dropped stitches when knitted swatches). However, for wide panels, I strongly suspect you will need the “new” table brackets. Those gave me the most reliable weight across the comb and no dropped stitches.
  • be patient and learn one technique at a time, do not start complex projects until feeling confident with less sophisticated ones. Ribbers, in general, are honestly a pain in the butt: so many (additional) things to keep track of.

Brother Profile 551 tested and serviced in my shop in October 2025

Brother Profile 551 (Or KH551) knitting machine is a standard-gauge knitting machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart. Read more about the pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia.

The article below is dedicated to a specific machine tested and serviced in my shop in October 2025.

The machine was cleaned and oiled. All needles were removed, cleaned, and inspected individually. Their latches and straightness were checked and confirmed. The carriage was cleaned and serviced (oiled and inspected). The sponge in the metal retaining bar was replaced with a new one.

I first knit a swatch while testing the machine to demonstrate that the carriage, all its levers, buttons and knobs as well as the needle selection mechanism, work well.

Additionally, I tested the machine on all needles to ensure the needles form correct stitches. The video of these tests is posted on my YouTube channel. I used several different yarns. All tests went really well. I tested the machine using several different yarns. I will include a skein of one of the yarns I used and liked the most for this machine.

In the video, you will see that I first checked how smoothly the carriage runs on the needlebed. I moved forward (to B position) one section of needles at a time and ran the carriage in different settings across these needles. Thus, I ran the carriage across the needlebed after moving the Russel levers to I, II< and III positions and pushed the “tuck” and “part” buttons on the carriage.

When knitting the “butterfly” pattern (the very first “holding” pattern) I deviated from the pattern and instead of alternating between pressing buttons 1 and 3, I pressed 1 and 3 and then 2 and 4 to demonstrate that machine, buttons and needle selection function properly.

The machine will come with all major accessories and almost all minor.

The accessories that are not included are:

  • one of the yarn hangers, used in the plating type of knitting (page 19 in the manual). On one of the previous machines, I used a paper clip. My experience also shows that knitters rarely use these.
  • oil. It was too old and I discarded it. Use Hoppe’s gun oil available on Amazon.
  • A tapestry needle was rusty and I discarded it as well. Any needle will suffice.
  • A hard copy of the manual will not be provided.

The original manual can be found online, but the resolution is poor. For patterns, it is better to use this manual, which is for the 8-pushbutton machine, but the functions of the carriage are all the same. When converting those patterns, in the pattern table, cut the number of buttons by half and just follow the rest of the directions.

I noticed that the claw weights do not come with this machine. But you can easily order them on Amazon (as well as a smaller cast-on comb for swatches). The price on Amazon is even better than I would offer.

When knitting tuck patterns, especially on every other needle, watch that the stitches come off the round section of the needles. Always remember that the tuck (other stitches too, but tuck especially) is always an interplay between the correct yarn, tension, carriage settings, and static, among a few aspects. I will include a skein of yarn I used for my tets to use as a reference yarn.

A couple of hints to avoid mistakes with the set lever and pushbuttons:

  • Make sure the ratchet tool goes ALL THE WAY to the left when activating the needle selection and all the way to the right (to the OFF position); otherwise, incorrect (or incomplete) selection might happen.
  • general rule of thumb: tuck requires higher tension (smaller number on the tension dial) than stockinet. So does slip/part.
  • Notice in the video that I am adjusting the tension as I am going from stockinet to tuck/slip.
  • For consistency, I recommend the very last two needles (on each side) to be in B position. For example, in the video when i was knitting tuck stitch, I was checking if the last needles are in B or C position. I like my last needles to be in B position, so I moved the needles pushed to C position up.

PROS:

  • Overall the machine is in great shape with no visible rust
  • cast on combs are in great shape: all teeth are straight, and there are only a couple of minor scratches
  • Most of the tools are original

Imperfections:

  • couple of missing minor accessories and a hard copy of the manual
  • minor scratches (some of them are shown below)
  • some minor discoloration on the pushbuttons (shown below)
  • cast on combs have just couple of minor scratches (not shown)
  • The case and the lid are in great shape with only minor, barely noticeable, scratches (not shown)

Picture showing minor scratches on the carriage:

Picture showing pushbutton up close to demonstrate the minor discoloration and minor scratches:

Please keep in mind that my house is a dog-friendly household, so some dog hair is unavoidable.

Hope all looks good and if it does – Happy Knitting!

Retaining bar vs knitting machine model chart

In progress. LAST UPDATED: June 2026

The table below lists the lengths and widths of various knitting machines I measured myself. Use this table as a reference to ensure you purchase the correct retaining bar for your knitting machine.


Model number		Retaining bar parameters
materialsponge strip?length, inch/cmwidth, inch/mm
Brother/Defendi/Empisal/ Jones/KnitKing
Brother KH500, KH531, KH551metalyes41/1040.375/10-10.5
Brother KH110, KH120, KH552, KH582, KH585, KH588, KH710, KH800, KH801, KH820, KH830, KH840, KH860, KH864, KH890, KH891, KH910, KH970metalyes41/1040.5/11-11.5
Brother KH230 machine, KR230 ribbermetalyes43/1090.5/11-11.5
Brother KH260, KH270metalyes47/1190.5/11-11.5
Brother KR810, KR830, KR850 ribbersplasticno41/104
Brother KR260 ribbermetalyes
Brother KR230 ribbermetalyes43/1090.5/11-11.5

JUKI
2500metalyes43/1090.75/11.0-11.5
Riccar/Silver/Empisal Knitmaster/Studio/Silver Reed/Singer
Silver Reed SK120metalyes43/1095 mm/0.2 inch
Silver Reed 260, 280, 321, 322, 323, 324, 326, 327,328,329,350, 500, 560, 580, 600, 700 840
SK270, 370, 830		metalyes41/1040.75/11.0-11.5
Silver Reed SK150.151, 155, 160, 860, 890, HK100metalyes43/1090.75/11.0-11.5
Toyota

About retaining bars in knitting machines and ribbers.

… this article is in constant progress as I learn about various knitting machines and their retaining bars. By the way, a chart on which machine uses what kind of retaining bar can be found here. Read how to deal with a stuck retaining bar at the end of this blog post.

Almost all knitting machines and ribbers have retaining bars. Some machines have retaining bars with a sponge attached to them. Some machines (the majority of plastic flatbed machines) have only a long and narrow sponge (without the metal holder). Ribbers come with either a “retaining bar+sponge” assembly or only with the plastic retaining bar (no sponge strip).

The main role of these retaining bars is to hold the needles in place and to prevent them from bouncing up and down when knitting.

Below are the situations when you want and need to remove (and inspect in many cases) the retaining bar:

  1. When you just purchased your machine (especially used and NOT recently serviced), the first thing you need to do is to remove your retaining bar and inspect it. I made a short video on how to do it because I have been asked about it so many times by my customers.
  2. When you need to replace faulty needles.
  3. When you need to clean your machine.
  4. When you notice your knitting machine mispatterning without any good reason.

Hopefully, you purchased your knitting machine new or recently serviced. In this case, the sponge should be 1-2 cm above the metal edge of the retaining bar.

But in most cases, this is not the case. Thus, it is possible that when you remove the retaining bar, you will see a disintegrated sponge. I’ve seen some spongy strips being just a gooey mess. The old sponge needs to be removed as soon as possible (since it often corrodes the needles) and replaced.

There are two ways to approach this replacement.

First approach: just replace the spongy strip

If you decide to replace the sponge, you will need to remove all this goo. I first use a flat-head screwdriver to scrape all the residue out of the retaining bar canal. Typically, the old sponge residue remains in the retaining bar channels. So, to remove those, I then use “Goo Gone” to remove the rest of the residue. I typically do it outside because it is a very messy process. I pour a thin layer of “Goo Gone” liquid into the retaining bar and wait for a couple of hours. Then I scrape the remains of the old sponge again with the screwdriver. Repeat the “Goo Gone” application if needed. Lastly, I wash the retaining bar with soap and water, wipe it really well, and let it dry (or blow-dry it). You can purchase just the sponge in my store or on Amazon.

I sometimes read in forums that some thrifty machine knitters get simple weather stripping and use them as sponge strips. Well, those have different densities and sometimes do not have a silky ribbon on one side. Also, they are not suited to be exposed to oils and might decompose rapidly, leaving a sticky (potentially unremovable) residue inside your machine.

I read that experienced machine knitters use different ways to attach the spongy strip to the retaining bar. (By the way, the width of the spongy strip is not as critical, and it can be a little bit narrower than the channel of the retaining bar, but not by much). I tried different glues, and my current choice is hot glue. Some machine knitters use wood glue. I apply the glue to the metal part of the retaining bar and attach the strip to the metal by the sponge side (not the silky ribbon side). I then tape the ends of the sponge to the plastic ends. I like using medical tape. Only one layer of the tape is enough to secure the ends of the sponge. More layers will only get stuck when you insert the newly refurbished retaining bar back into the machine. Insert a small section at a time and push the needles gently down. To avoid stripping this tape, push it down on the ends of the retaining bar while inserting it into the machine.

You will see some sellers offer plastic ends for retaining bars. There are several problems with those:

  • To insert them on top of your new sponge strip, you will very likely have to widen the metal section of the retaining bar where the ends snap into, and then clip the metal again around the plastic ends. Since you will very likely have to do this procedure often (twice a year), this process deteriorates the metal retaining bar, making it eventually unusable.
  • Sometimes the plastic ends do not snap into place easily and pop out of the retaining bar.
  • Removing the old plastic ends to insert the sponge strip along the whole length of the retaining bar can also damage the ends of the metal retaining bar.

Second approach: buy a new retaining bar

Or if you do not feel like dealing with all this mess, you can purchase a retaining bar with a sponge already in it. Before you order a new retaining bar, make sure you measure the dimensions of your old bar: its width and its length.

Most commonly used by machine knitters Brother, Studio/Silver Reed/Singer, and Toyota knitting machines have somewhat similar retaining bars but there are some differences depending on the model and the gauge of the machine.

For the retaining bars for these machines, there are three different lengths (41, 43, and 47 inches) and two different widths (0.375 and 0.5 inches). This is why it is important to measure your old retaining bar to ensure that you are getting a retaining bar suitable for your machine. Most JUKI, Toyota, Silger/Silver Reed/Studio, Artisan knitting machines use 0.375-inch wide retaining bars. The lengths are either 41 or 43 inches (depending on the model).

I’ve read stories on Facebook groups, where the new machine knitters were puzzled by the fact that they JUST replaced the sponge bar and the needles do not move, advance, or retract the way they are supposed to. I especially see I happen to be the owner of 8 push-button Brother knitting machines. There is somewhere out there some incorrect information on the retaining bar for these machines. 4-push-button machines use a 0.375-inch wide retaining bar, and the 8-push-button machines use a 0.25-inch wide retaining bar. (I’ve refurbished over a dozen push-button machines and I know the difference first-hand).

Brother ribbers use plastic retaining bars without sponges. When (re) inserting the retaining bar into the Brother ribbers, the concave surface (the “channel”) should face you.

There are machines and ribbers with unique retaining bars (like Silver Reed SK120 and SK121 models, Brother KR321 ribber) – I will keep updating the blog as I am learning more. I am also putting a table on machines (and models) and retaining bar compatibility.

In the meantime, enjoy your adventure in retaining/sponge bar replacement!

PS. I measured several dozen retaining bars with my calipers. Even though the “official” measurement is 0.375 and 0.5 inches, mine are measured as 0.40-0.41 and 0.44-0.46 inches, respectively. This inaccuracy in inches makes me like the mm scale (aka metric) a bit better. So the narrower retaining bars are 10.0-10.5 mm, while the wider ones are 11-12 mm wide. Who knew that just 1 mm would make such a difference, but it does! I had an incorrect bar installed on my KH581 8-pushbutton machine, and the needles would not go back from E to B (or A) position!!!

Sometimes the retaining bar gets stuck. Possible reasons are:

  • it was inserted incorrectly originally: e.g., with the metal side touching the needles, or misaligned with the channel or even bypassed the channel.
  • sponge strip disintegrated and the old goo got stuck to the needles;
  • sponge strip goo rusted the needles and they are grabbing onto the old sponge strip;

Solutions when the retaining bar is stuck inside the machine:

  • try to use pliers to pull the retaining bar out;
  • if not much is visible to grab, remove the end cap;
  • try to do the two previous ones from a different end of the needle bed;
  • try to push the needles to E position and try the previous bullet points again

Brother KH551 knitting machine serviced in November 2023

Brother KH551 is a standard gauge knitting machine with 4-pushbutton-based patterning mechanism. This blog is dedicated to one specific machine I serviced. If you want to know more about the Brother KH551 knitting machine model, refer to my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia article.

The machine (including carriage and all needles) was cleaned and serviced. All levers and the buttons on the carriage were checked and they moved and worked without problems. These levers were also tested while knitting. All needles were also checked while knitting on a full bed. No faulty needles were detected.

The 15 needles on each side (30 total) came from my refurbished stack. Thus, when I was knitting on the full bed, I was inspecting the edges especially closely to make sure all these refurbished needles worked well. Also, because of such a high number of refurbished needles, I am including the set of 5 spare needles (instead of usual 3).

The machine comes with all major assesories.

Several missing minor assesories are:

  • A hard copy of the manual is not included but can be found online.
  • Sinker plate yarn hangers, left and right. It can honestly be replaced with a regular paper clip (just unbent them to a desired shape). The manual describes their usage on p. 18. manual
  • The tool storage box is not included
  • Oil is not included also but I recommend Hoppe’s Elite Gun Oil.

Additionally, the small cast-on comb is not all metal – I pulled it out from my own stash.

On the full bed, I knitted stockinet, tuck, slip and hold patterns (see the video of tests – all went well). Butterfly stitch is my favorite on this machine.

Now about flaws and imperfections:

I had to replace the push-buttons but I did not have a part for the button marked #1. So, I replaced it with the button marked as #4 but it is of different shade of white. If you want, you can put a sticker on it with “#1” (I prefer not to put stickers on machines since it damages and stains the vintage plastic).

Despite being vintage, this machine will still serve your craft needs for many years especially if regularly serviced.

Happy Knitting!

Brother KH 551 knitting machine refurbished in October 2022

This is my Brother KH551 machine tested and cleaned in October 2022.

The machine passed all my tests. I tested how needles move during their push-button selection and tested slip/part and tuck stitch patterning. I tested how this machine knits on a full bed using somewhat challenging yarns: boucle, fuzzy (mohair-like), and yarn with boucle-like specs. All knitted fabrics looked beautiful.

I installed a new sponge bar, checked ALL needles, ran several tests on them to make sure all latches are moving freely, and replaced all damaged needles with new (aka, from old stock) or with refurbished ones. After all this, I typically knit on the full bed to ensure that I did not miss anything while inspecting the needles. If needles do not knit properly (which I judge by the defects in the knitted fabric), I replace them.

I did not see any defects in the fabric – please, refer to my video for details.

The machine came to me with several accessories missing and without a hard copy manual.

  • The hard copy of the manual can be found here;
  • The toolbox which stores all accessories did not come with this machine. I placed all the tools in a bag and securely attached it to the bed for easier transport during shipping
  • I typically discard the oil/grease that comes with these old machines because of their age. I recommend using gun oil, which can be purchased here.
  • The small bag that stores the needles had to be thrown away. It is simply a container that holds them and is not critical
  • The sinker plat yarn hangers did not come with this machine. See page 19 in the manual on what these are needed for. I feel that their use is pretty specific – for plating. I consider myself an intermediate machine knitter and I am yet to learn this plating technique. I also feel that these yarn hangers can be imitated by a simple paper clip.

All knitting machines have their own characters and this one was no exception. I felt that it is somewhat more sensitive to tension or maybe I was just testing it with a challenging yarn. So, I discovered that it liked slightly more than average tension. I had to hang the weights to the corners of the knitted panel every other 10-15 rows or so. I needed to pay A LOT OF attention to the tension in the mast and adjust the tension on the dial. In general, on all machines, all projects will require several tests and swatches to determine the best yarn/tension combination.

Because this yarn was a bit more sensitive to tension, I am including complimentary claw weights (see the picture below, they are typically NOT included with a standard KH551 set).

Let’s talk about the imperfections of this machine:

The needle selection tools also had seen their days. But they still feel smooth to the touch.

My video shows some minor bents on the case.

The most annoying imperfection to me was a twitching row counter. I tried to fix it, oil it, and replace parts – to no avail. I feel that the plastic rotating gears wore over time and make the numbers twitch a bit when transitioning from 9 to 10 and from 19 to 20. I did not notice this twitching for other transitions. The operator simply needs to nudge the row counter during these transitions to keep the correct row count.

Overall, I would definitely consider having KH551 in my machine collection. It is a sturdy and hard-working machine. I hope its new owner will think so too.

Read more about this model in my previous posts on Brother KH551.

http://thoughtsandknits.com/2021/11/01/my-first-restored-and-tested-kh551-knitting-machine/

Brother KH551 – my second one

http://thoughtsandknits.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=1644&action=edit

Brother KH551 tested and cleaned in September 2022

Preface: If I had to describe this machine with just one word – it would be FLAWLESS!!!

But, first, a little bit of history. Brother KH551 knitting machines were introduced to the market in the 1960s and were the first machine with somewhat semi-automatic patterning capabilities. In this machine, there are 4 buttons, that you push to prepare for the needle selection and then rotate the knob (using the wrench) to select the corresponding needles. It is an excellent machine for beginning knitters. I feel that it would be also great for people who are not quite yet ready to give up hand-knitting but want to have more even stitches and a bit faster progress…. Brother KH551 is also lighter than other machines mostly because its bed is narrower. The carriage is also significantly lighter and I could easily move it with just one hand.

The machine comes with heavy-duty cast-on combs that eliminate the need for any other weights. As you can see from my video, I did not attach any additional weights and had only one small problem with an uneven stitch which is amazing considering no additional weights and a rather difficult (with specs and boucle) yarn.

Not the whole machine is light, but the carriage is also light and small and is ideal for somebody with small hands and not a lot of upper body strength. Its lightweight makes it pretty portable, compared to other machines. The machine is capable of plain old knitting with hand manipulations of the needles. But also is capable of semi-automatic needle selection. The petiteness of the machine also makes it easier to store when not in use. I like the three-thread tension mast and a yarn clip in from of the tension mast rod. I love the three-horned tension section of the mast (not just a triangle) where each color of yarn can be inserted individually. However, the tension on the second and middle tension disk only has two settings (although they might depend on the very right one).

One feature of this model that I have not observed in others: There is some kind of protective lever at the end of the bed because the machine does not slide very easily from the end of the bed. One has to work really hard to “accidentally” pull it off the machine. In the video, you will see me seemingly struggling with the carriage towards the bed’s end (when knitting on a full bed only). But the knitting itself did not struggle: I believe it was just that protective mechanism in action.

The setup includes all major accessories. A couple of minor things are missing:

  • Sinker plate yarn hanger. The machine came with only one. However, when or if or both you decide to knit using the plating technique (see p. 18-19 in the manual), you can just make a similarly shaped hanger out of a heavy-duty paper clip). On other machines, when I knitted multicolor slip- and tuck-patterns, I was just leaving the thread on the side of the machine to keep it out of the way…Regardless of the technique you chose, the absence of this part does not affect the machine’s functioning and you can still do a LOT of various things with it using a variety of techniques.
  • I did not want to include the old container with oil because I did not want to risk putting such old oil onto this machine. I recommend getting a Hoppe’s gun oil (this is what I used to clean the needles and lightly oil the machine) and oil only lightly on the parts mentioned in the manual.

This machine comes with two brochures: a hard copy of the manual (which is in great shape) and a knitter’s guide (which contains techniques, a bunch of how-tos advice, and a couple of examples on garment knitting). I used this brochure when I knitted my sweater last year (using another KH551). The manual is also available online but the scanned copy is not of great quality.

I tested this machine and other KH551 and I was very pleasantly surprised by how well it handles potentially challenging yarns. This machine handled boucle yarn without any problems. In fact, I did not even have to restart the knitting of this shawl. Check out a pretty pathetic attempt of me modeling it below. I later added decorative edging to the shawl. I found a yarn that matched the color of the tiny yarn specs (boucle), made a cord out of it, and then attached it to the edges. I actually like how it turned out. Light yet warm garments are the most favorite types of garments for my constantly-cold petite body.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A couple of other things I liked about KH551: Love the small container for tools. I like that it is so easy to remove and position onto the bed. I also love a special container that stores all the tools when not in use. The table clips are somewhat different than the younger models. It is first screwed onto the case and then onto the table.

I removed all the needles, cleaned them and inspected them all individually. I then knitted on a full bed machine, which helps me to identify faulty needles even more: when there is a propagating error or a flaw in the knitting that appears in the same place, it is definitely due to faulty needles.

A couple of disclaimers about this machine. The case (lid and the bottom part) has several very small dents (hey – it is over 50 years old after all! It is like us having age spots and wrinkles). The table clamp attachments (on the bottom portion of the case) were rusty and I cleaned them and painted those areas with rustoleum to slow down or even prevent further rusting to extend the life of this wonderful machine. It appeared to be the only place, where I observed rust on the main bed. There is some rust on the lid – at the ends where the metal ends touch the cover panel.

I replaced the sponge bar and cleaned the machine, carriage and sinker plate from dust/lint.

The row counter is easy to operate: also shows how many rows remained and how many rows are current. The numbers do not jump uncontrollably as in a couple of other machines I tested when you are trying to re-zero the ones- or tens positions. Basically, the numbers do not slip when you turn the wrong way. This type of row counter is actually my most favorite out of all other machines I tested.

To summarize, below are the lists of pros and cons for the Brother KH551:

Pros:

+ Carriage is very light and slides very easily

+ The bed is narrower than other machines – which makes it more compact

+ …and makes the machine lighter than other similar models

+ relatively easy deep cleaning – all parts are solid and straightforward to insert/assemble/disassemble

+ The needle count is engraved on the bed – so these slippery and constantly in-the-way paper liners showing the needle count won’t annoy you by constantly sliding and getting lost.

+ Threading the yarn is a bit more intuitive and straightforward in my opinion

+ built-in capabilities for 3 different yarns

+ the hard case is a combination of fake leather and plastic, which makes it not only look neater and nicer than other machines but also made durable. The case shows absolutely no discoloration despite the age of this machine.

Cons:

  • The push-button mechanism helps to select the needles but you need to change the needles selected quite often (basically turn the ratchet tool to SET and OFF). It might be tedious and you need to keep track of the correct order. When I tested this machine, I got into this zen-like rhythm that helped no prevent mistakes…
  • Some might find the machine too simple – yes, it has only limited patterning capabilities. However, with manual needle selection and yarn manipulation, the possibilities are endless.
  • I discovered some typos in the manual when I was testing the patterns. I vaguely remember that I’ve seen an addendum to correct the errors but I cannot find it now. Maybe it was for another machine… Just keep it in mind when you try the patterns from the manual and they are not working.

A little bit more about potential typos in the manual. I tried at least a dozen of times to knit the patterns on p. 33: a purl-like stitch on the left and another one on the right. The purl-like was either dropping stitches on the whole swatch or was tangling the yarn so bad that I had to start all over again multiple times…I do not exclude a complete operator failure….But: when I started reviewing the pattern on the right-hand side (the anonymous one on p. 33), I noticed some inconsistencies. I was still able to knit it but the pattern did not look like in the manual: see the picture below (the very top swatch) of what I got and compare it to the manual – two big differences. Well, at least the swatch did not fall off the bed like in the case of the “purl-like” pattern attempt. But that pattern (on the right-hand side in the manual) definitely had typos: Look at the schematics: it shows TUCK but the description writes PART. I vaguely remember seeing an addendum to one of the manuals of the machines I refurbished last year… Maybe the purrlike stitch pattern on the left also had typos/errors and this is why I could not figure it out… But I successfully knitted herringbone (not shown in my video – sorry), seed stitch A, seed stitch B (pics below and on a video), and diamond design (pattern I in the book on p28)….I then knitted these patterns on the whole bed and converted what I got into a hood/neck warmer/cowl…

Not much else to say about this machine left, other than it was an extremely pleasant experience working on it. Indeed, now, after failed attempts to knit a “purl-like” pattern, I want to go back and experiment with all possible knob and lever combinations to see what other UNKNOW YET patterns I will come up with.