Blog – Thoughts on knits

Singer MemoMatic 323 prepared in my shop in October 2026

Singer MemoMatic 323 is a standard-gauge knitting machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart. Read more about this model in its own article in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of the blog post below is dedicated to a specific Singer MemoMatic 323 machine serviced in my shop.

As usual, the machine was deep-cleaned, oiled, and serviced. All needles were removed, cleaned, and inspected (for rust, straightness, and mobility of the latch). The sponge strip was replaced with a new one. (I recommend buying a small roll of medical tape to reglue the sponge strip because frequent removal of the retaining bar might strip the old tape – a typical problem of the refurbished sponge strips). The punchcard reading mechanism was serviced, cleaned, and tested.

Read in more detail all the steps I take when cleaning, inspecting, and testing my machines. Briefly, after the machine was inspected, I knitted several swatches to familiarize myself with how the machine behaves, to test how the tension dial works, and then on the full bed to test the same and also to check whether all the needles form correct stitches. The video of all those tests is here.

The machine behaved great during all those tests. I demonstrated tuck-, slip-, and fair isle patterns. All stitches were formed well. I will include a couple of cards for popular (for blankets and for baby items) patterns with the standard set of punchcards.

I included a new needle indicator strip (although the needles leave the black oil mark the second they slide against the strip and thus, the new strip already looks used). I removed the old and crumbling side end-racks and installed new ones. The carriage was opened up and serviced. The drums on the carriage move very freely (which is important for smooth carriage movement).

The machine will come with all major accessories and most minor ones. It might seem at first (based on the picture below) that a LOT of accessories are missing. However, the manual the closest matching the machine feature and function covers two models: Singer MemoMatic 322 and 323. Singer MemoMatic 322 has a built-in knit leader, while Singer MemoMatic 323 does not. Thus, some of the accessories crossed out below (gauge scale, stitch scales, and knit leader sheets) are not applicable to this machine because it does not come with a knit leader.

Single motif accessories (one point cam, plate cam, and separators) did not come with this machine, and I do not have any replacements. I also do not have any weaving brush attachment (weaving arm) to include. My understanding is that single motif and weaving are among the last techniques new and returning knitters try (as well as try to master) on the knitting machines.

The minor accessories also not included are: ravel cord (any strong and silky yarn will work), tapestry needle (any needle of your choice, including plastic, will work), name paper (it is simply a sticky paper to put your name on it and attach to the machine), and the punchcard rod (called card guide).

All the tests shown in this video were done without the card guide, and there were no issues related to the absence of this rod.

Among the accessories that are included are the box with a lid (original, in decent shape), stitch transfer tools (two original and one also original but does not say “Singer” on it), claw weights (one original and one brand new, new stock), table clamps, needle selection ruler, punchcard clamps (including an extra set because the original green one might not survive for long), 1×1 needle selection ruler, oil (decent, but I still recommend getting Hope’s gun oil on Amazon). I will include a small ball of yarn that I used when knitting on this machine: it is good to familiarize yourself with the machine with a yarn of known performance. I am including extra wheels/brushes with plastic covers (those get bent quite frequently, so practice first till proficiency and then remove those plastic circles if needed).

I am including a brand new set of punchcards. They should match the original cards. I included about a dozen various cards as well (some from Knittery (professional ones) and some hand-punched (not by me)).

The row counter is original. I will also send the books below.

Imperfections: overall, the machine is in a very decent shape. However:

I replaced the broken end caps on the lid with brand new ones (new stock). So they are bright and shiny and new. Not quite an imperfection, but it the look will clearly show the discrepancy in wear/tear (pictures are coming in the second draft).

There were super minor, very small spots that could be interpreted as rust on the case on the inside. I covered them with the Rust-Oleum for extra precautions. I covered the sinker plate holder in the lid with a layer as well.

Like all knitting machines, this vintage beauty machine has its own character too. Before connecting the yarn, practice moving the carriage on the first dozen needles and then expand to the whole bed with one solid continuous motion with both hands. This is not an imperfection but more of a “need-to-pay-attention-to” sort of thing.
There are a couple of very minor stains on the needlebed and plastic case (they are even hard to see in the pictures below)

The oyster clamps seem a bit chewed up but still work pretty well.

The case is in decent shape but has some minor warping as well as bumps and scratches.

The plastic covers on the brushes on the sinker plate are slightly bent, but it does not affect the knitting. The new plastic covers are included, but I recommend replacing the old ones only when they are completely unusable and only AFTER the user is proficient with the machine. These plastic circles bend easily, especially when the yarn tangles.

With regard to the manual for this machine. The hard copy WILL NOT be included. I tried to find a suitable online copy… Although all machines in the 32X series look and operate similarly, their accessory lists and some functions differ slightly (table clamp shapes, sinker plate appearance, presence or absence of the weaving arm, some single-motif accessories, to name a few). So, I found that this video shows the most accurate manual for the Singer MemoMatic 323 knitting machine. Additionally, the manual for the Empisal Knitmaster 326 is poor quality but also somewhat accurate. A good manual is here. Keep in mind the difference between 322 and 323 models (only 322 has knit leader and all associated accessories). None of the manuals describe the machine exactly as it is. For example, one manual describes all accessories correctly, but the model picture has two knobs at the punchcard pattern center, and this machine has only one.

Below is the serial number for this machine, which I will delete from the web after the machine is received by its owner.

What to look for when purchasing a new-to-you knitting machine

… this post is constantly in progress. I’ll update with pictures when I can.

If you are one of those lucky people who inherited a knitting machine, got one passed down from your grandmother’s attic, or got a set for free, you can ignore this post. Just know: we are all already jealous, no matter how small or big your inheritance is.

If you are looking for a machine on Marketplace, below are a couple of things to look for. None of these are deal breakers, depending on the price, on what you need, whether or not you are ready for a project machine…

Look that the carriage is present. You cannot knit without the carriage.
Look that the sinker plate (sometimes called fabric presser) is present. You will not be able to knit without it either.
Look for other major accessories: tension mast, cast-on combs (for Brother machine), needle transfer tools, etc. You will be able to knit without them, but those are nice to have. Even on the used market, you are looking at an additional $100 or so of investment if the tension mast and the cast-on combs are not present.
Look for pictures of needles moved from A to D position: make sure there is no rust or very little rust. Very often, a decomposed retaining bar that was sitting for a long time in the machine will rust the needles at the point of contact. However, believe it or not, this rust might be ok to fix. If the needles are rusted beyond that point, then there is a very big chance there is rust inside the needlebed, which might pose more serious problems down the road.

Importance of demonstrating knitting on the machine:

Thoughts on Toyota knitting machines

… constantly in progress. Check regularly.

Ya’ll heard by now how hard it is to find replacement parts, especially needles, for Toyota knitting machines. So, why are Toyota knitting machines still so desirable? Is it worth buying a Toyota knitting machine? Should I really accept that vintage present out of my aunt/grandmother/neighbor attic?

A lot of users emphasize that Toyota machines with Simulknit are most desirable because no other Japanese or European manufacturer makes something as easily manageable as Toyota’s Simulknit. There is a stand-alone Simulknit kit (Toyota Simulknit K80), and some setups have built-in Simulknit. Setups of the knitting machine compatible with ribbers with model numbers 5XX do not need any additional attachments because the Simulknit function comes with those 5xx ribbers.

Toyota Simulknit K80 attachment can be fitted onto the Toyota KR460 ribber.

A lot of users mention how wonderful the lace-knitted fabric looks on Toyota. Most Toyota machines that offer lace-knitting capabilities come with a two-carriage system for lace. Toyota KS950 has a carriage with built-in lace-knitting capabilities. Toyota KS950 (same as Elna EK2400) with its matching ribbers are the most desirable machines from this maker.

Many emphasize the ease with which Toyota carriages slide across the needlebed.

Many are just in love with everything Toyota and will buy a second second-hand machine to keep for parts.

Thoughts on replacement needles for Toyota knitting machines

The majority of the needles are used and sold by people who either have old stock supplies or disassembled machines for parts and have needles remaining. Often, people buy a second Toyota machine just for parts and needles and are willing to let go of some of their inventory.

Once in a while on social media, a manufacturer surveys for people who are willing to buy in bulk so it will be worth it to manufacture a lot of needles, but to the best of my knowledge, nothing has materialized yet.

Some needles are interchangeable among the models. However, needles for the 787 model are not compatible with the 747 one, and vice versa. Needles for the Toyota 747 have a small tail curved up. Needles for the 787 are similar in dimensions but lack this curved tail. Some sources say that needles for the Silver Reed SRP50 and SRP60 studio might work on Toyota 787.

Needles from the 950 will not work on the 901. Some sources state that needles from Silver Reed 321 model might work but the butt is a bit taller.

Brother needles currently available new are a bit shorter and will jam the carriage. So, if the Brother needles installed on the Toyota 901 are extended all the way to “hold” position, their ends will very likely pop out.

Needles for Toyota KR501 ribber are the same as needles for the Singer 313 and similar to the needles for the Studio SRP50 and SRP60 needles. Some sources state that needles for Toyota KR501 ribber are similar to the needles of the main bed of Toyota 787

Brother KH260+KR260 setup tested in August 2026

Brother KH260, especially with a matching Brother KR260 ribber, is a highly sought-after setup. Read more about the wonderful Brother KH260 knitting machine and KR260 ribber in their corresponding posts in the Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. This post is dedicated to the setup I serviced and tested in August-September 2026.

The machine is in great shape and worked very well (see the video of the tests). I tested the machine by itself, with a ribber, and with a ribber+color changer setup. I used three different yarns, two of which were problematic ones (based on my previous experience with them). The machine handled all stitches (stockinette, slip/part, tuck and even plating) all very well. The thickest yarn, as shown in the video, was the light green one. The case and the lid are in great shape too. Despite some minor discoloration (which sometimes indicates rust starting to form), there were no static issues, and I tried several yarns, including difficult ones.

All accessories will be included with some minor exceptions (see below). A hard copy of the manual, with some additional brochures and additional punchcards included as well.

The carriage is in great shape. I left the carriage in the settings that correspond to the “last pair of needles being selected” (read the manual on that). Because I left the ribber insertion brackets in, I used the ribber lock for the machine. The machine-only lock is included as well with the accessories.

The tension mast came with the machine, and there was usable wax in it (although a bit yellow). I am sending it along. The cast-on combs are also original and are in great shape. Three of the claw weights are brand new (new stock), and three are original ones (thus, they are slightly different in color).

One pair of card clips is original (white); one is new stock but used. The needle selection ruler and the set of transfer tools is original. Card holder pin/rod is included, but I did not even use it during my tests.

A brand new knit leader scale (part of the machine setup) is also included. The cast-on thread is in a bobbin. Table clamps are original and look brand new, in my opinion.

All needles were removed, cleaned, and inspected (according to my standard procedure). I paid special attention to the latches because I had some minor problems with the tuck stitches. I deep cleaned everything, including the card reader mechanism. The sponge bar is new, not refurbished.

I cleaned the sinker plate, the needlebed, and the carriage again after the tests, but some residual lint accumulated after my tests (very minor) might remain.

Punchcards are a new set (new stock), but it matches the original one (thus, correspond to the patterns shown in the manual). Unfortunately, I damaged card #1 slightly from this set, but I am including another one from another set. It is made on a bit thicker paper and is marked as 1s (others are marked with “p”). I am also including, as a thank you, two original Knittery cards and four custom-punch cards (punched by hand but not by me).

The accessories are stored in the built-in storage box.

During my tests, the only issue I experienced was when I knitted tuck. First, I knitted tuck when the ribber was attached to the machine (so, the machine was at an angle to the table). Some of the stitches did not slide easily, and I had to manually inspect them. When I removed the ribber and the main needlebed was parallel to the table, I was able to tune the tension for that particular yarn with the amount of weights to knit tuck without checking the needles too much. Additionally, I knitted tuck without engaging the tuck wheels and the brushes (the manual describes it pretty well) and still got good results. Read my article on tuck and how to troubleshoot it. The article emphasizes the importance of swatching (aka, figuring out the right tension and weight combinations) for tuck.

Minor imperfections of the machine:

Wheel brushes for waving and tuck have some discoloration, but nothing too serious to mess with it (it is even hard to see in the pictures).

The row counter has typical yellowing/discoloration, but it does not affect its functioning. It is original: the pink insert on the dial gives it away.
The metal insert to hold the parts inside the lid was a bit rusty, so I covered it with my favorite Rust-Oleum.

The needlebed had some discoloration as well, so a layer of Rust-Oleum was applied as well.

There is some minor straining/discoloration on the needlebed itself. But it does not affect the functioning of the machine.

Minor staining and unevenness on the needlebed main bed and/or lid.

The ribber is set up at the moment perfectly for the machine (distance-wise): the first knitted zig-zag row looked perfect.

I suggest using the settings that the ribber came with, and if there are problems, then try to adjust them. I knitted on the ribber+machine 1×1 ribbing at two different needle combinations (shown in the video) and got excellent results for both.

The only comments I have about the ribber are to pull on the fabric when the yarn is worsted-weight to make sure nothing gets caught. The weights sometimes rest against something on the machine stand, and it is something to watch for as well. I feel a tilt stand would be ideal for this setup, but those are hard to find. Even I don’t have one in my possession.

The ribber will also come with ALL accessories. Most are original. Only some are replacements, but still original to Brother. A hard copy of the manual is also included (typically I do not have spare copies to include). It is with the knitting machine package and all other brochures.

The ribber carriage is in great shape. The spanner is the original but is a bit rough to the touch. It is not a big deal. I feel that the spanner has not been used at all.

The claw hangers are new (new stock). The D-slider is original.

Table clamps are original but showed some discoloration, and I applied a layer of Rust-Oleum.

The cast-on combs are original too and have some discoloration, but I decided not to make them uglier with my mediocre painting skills. The combs are still smooth to the touch. Only one side is discolored. The other looks perfect.

The handle is new stock (thus, it is a bit whiter than the rest of the plastic).

Both the ribber and the machine will come with their original packaging, which I will then put in another box. The resale value of the machines with original packaging is a bit higher, and it is also nice to have them for storage, especially the ribber packaging since it has all these nice compartments.

Differences, pros, and cons of Brother pushbutton and punch card knitting machines

… in progress while I am organizing my thoughts on this subject.

The comparisons below are done for the 4- and 8-pushbutton machines versus the 24-stitch repeat punchcard machines. This means Brother KH800 and KH801 are not participating in this comparison. The hybrid model, Brother KH811, is also not considered here. A full current list of machines included in this article is at the end of this post.

At first sight, Brother pushbutton and punch card machines have different patterning mechanisms. However, the actual needle selection occurs using the same patterning plates, a basic mechanism of almost ALL Brother knitting machines.

Pushbutton machines need a ratchet tool to activate the needle selection. Punchcard machines just need a prepatterned punchcard inserted into a slot of a card reader, and after that the needle selection is automatic.

Pushbutton machines offer an 8-stitch repeat pattern, while punchcards 24. However, the users are still limited to the punchcards themselves: there is somewhat limited selection of premade punchcards unless knitters hunt down knittery and other custom cards or punch them themselves. It would seem that pushbutton would offer more variety but more of a more involved (some are by hand manipulations) process.

I feel that keeping track of knitting cables spread at even distances from each othter is easier on pushbutton machines: I can memorize which buttons to press to move the needles (that mark my cable positions) forward.

It seems that the list of accessories compatible with punchcard machines is much bigger. Ribbers for pushbutton machines are hard to find and there is only a limited number of models that fit. Ribbers for punchcard knitting machines are all interchangeable, and they are easier to find on the used market. Thus, I feel pushbutton machines offer more flexibility in terms of creating patterns, which might be important to designers and those who ar enot ready to give up satisfaction of manipulation stitches by hand. Punchcard machines offer faster automation of knitting patterns.

Additionally, minor accessories, like linking, transfer, and intarsia carriages, as well as color changers were NOT made for pushbutton machines.

I heard that lace patterns come out very nice on pushbutton machines.

Pushbutton machnes are somewhat lighter than punchcard ones. Most pushbutton machines have all-metal robust case. It is sometimes prone to rusting when not stored properly. Out of dozens pusbutton machines I only saw two that were not really fixable. Punchcard machines have metal lid and the case but the end caps and covers are plastic. These plastic parts are prone to sun light damage. Visible damage is yellowing but the over time degradation makes the plastic fragile. These plastic components often break during shipping.

However, if a pushbutton machine misbehaves, it is easier to troubleshoot it: punchcard machines have way more complicated timing-belt-based patterning process, which might be overwhelming to tune up.

There is no bulky gauge pushbutton machine. On a flip side, Brother’s only fine-gauge machine is pushbutton.

My personal choise would be to keep pushbutton machine for creating patterns and having a punchcard for quick patterned design of already established (in my head/skill level) garments/items.

List of 4- and 8-pushbutton machines as well as 24-stitch repeat punch-based knitting machines:

4-button	8-button	24-stitch repeat punchcard
KH511, KH521, Brother KH531, Brother Profile 551	Hi-Knitter Auto, Profile 552, KH552, KH561, KH571, KH580, KH581, Profile 583, KH583 Profile 585, KH585, KH587, Brother Profile 588, KH588, KH601, KH610, KH701, KH705, KH710, KH880	KH260, KH264P, KH810, KH820, KH821, KH830, KH831, KH835, KH836, KH838, KH840, KH850, KH851, KH860, KH864, KH868, KH871, KH881, KH890, KH891, KH892, KH893, KH894

Brother Profile KH552 for Paige, July 2026

Brother Profile 552 knitting machine is the first machine on the market with an 8-push-button needle selection mechanism. Read more about its pros and cons in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The post below is dedicated to a specific Brother 552 machine serviced and tested in my shop.

I deep-cleaned this machine using my standard procedure. In addition, I deep-cleaned the pushbutton mechanism. I removed the old sponge strip and replaced it with a new one (it will not be visible). The new sponge bar helps the buttons spring back faster/better. I also oiled the selecting plates, which also helps the pushbutton retract more reliably (which is demonstrated in the video).

The machine knitted wonderfully during my tests on the full bed (read here why tests on the full bed are so important to me; not just knitting a swatch). In this video, I show stockinette, slip- and tuck- stitches with 3 different yarns (but all a bit thinner than the sock yarn). All needles formed wonderful stitches. I will include a little bit of the first (blue) yarn with the setup. During those tests, I showed the functioning of the A/B and L/R knobs in the pattern center.

The description of the slip “zig-zag” pattern in the manual is not accurate. I am including a printed copy of that pattern as well. An accurate schematic for the zig-zag slip-stitch pattern is actually in the manual for the Brother KH587. It is in Spanish, but the schematics are self-explanatory. This manual has a lot more patterns than any other.

The setup will include almost all original parts: claw weights, ratchet tool, transfer tool, table clamps, carriage, cleaning brush, crochet hook, carriage lock, carriage screw-on handle, row counter, cast-on combs, wax in a container, sinker plate, and toolbox (although it might be from KH585/KH588 since it has designated spots for two carriage handles: one for the main carriage and one for the lace, but KH552 does not come with a lace carriage).

Replacement parts are:

Needle selection rulers: a slightly different set as shown in the manual
Tension mast (in great condition from a Brother machine but not the original one for the Brother Profile 552)
Replacement needles are new stock;
Cast-on thead is very likely not original; it is wound up on a bobbin.

Accessories that WILL NOT BE included:

Oil bottle; to lubricate my machines, I use Hoppe’s gun oil (Amazon has it).
“Accessories Kit” and “plastic case for spare needles” are just covers for the accessories. They were missing. Typically, those are so old and fragile that they are useless anyway.
Hard copy of the manual. There is a copy online that claims to be a manual for KH552; however, it is for KH588 (it shows the list of accessories for KH588). For reference: check out an online copy for KH585 (this is the one I used, as shown in the video, but the zig-zag pattern is not accurate).

BTW: Another useful free online brochure for pushbutton machines with patterns is a Baby’s book.

The accessories marked in blue below are for the KH588 machine and do not come with the Brother Profile 552 setup.

The machine’s look is in great shape as well, especially considering its age.

There are a couple of minor imperfections (read below):

There is a minor dent on the front panel

The lid had a couple of rusty areas, which I covered with Rust-Oleum.

Due to the machine being so old, or potentially because the tension mast is a bit bigger than the original one, you might see a case that is not fully closed. The crack is smaller when the pressure is applied, which makes me think that it is either the enlarged tension mast or simply the way all the components are packed inside (sometimes it is a pain to solve the puzzle of how all these pieces should lie perfectly inside for the lid to close the exact intended way).

Carriage had a rought/discolored spot on the back; I covered it with Rustoleum. Other than that one spot, the carriage is in great shape. I did not experience any static issues (which sometimes happen due to the rust in the components).

The claw weights are in good shape but have these minor cracks. Typically, something like this does not affect their functioning. I wanted to supply the machine with as many original tools as possible. But if you’d rather have new white claw weights, let me know, and I will replace them.

Cast-on combs are in great shape as well; however, the long cast-on has a small bend. I used that comb during all the tests shown in that video and did not have any problems. The small cast-on comb had some rust-like discoloration on the metal ends, so I applied a layer of Rustoleum as well.

Other useful things to know:

Just a small comment that a “hole” below between the clamp “feet” is NOT missing a screw. I checked with pictures of other machines and with another one of mine, and all of those do not have any screws in that area. I am not sure what the purpose of that hole is. Hmm…

Despite these minor imperfections, the case is actually in very good shape.

I am very confident in this machine, as I spent a lot of time cleaning, servicing, and ensuring it works properly.

Pictures from repairs of the Brother Profile 552.

The pictures below are applicable to most 8-push-button knitting machines.

Showing screws around the pattern center

The look of partially disassembled pattern center

Position of the “foot”. Also, a small screw hole is shown in the middle. Well, it is not for a screw. Not sure what for. But nothing goes in there. I see this small hole on many machines.

The image shows the position of the “feet”: the wide opening faces the “teeth).

Inside the pushbutton mechanism. Check out the video, in which I show how to (re) insert the buttons and the staples.

Position of the guiding plate. It goes against the wall of the pushbutton mechanism. Long staples go through it, and this is how the buttons are retracted. Wiggly staples do not go through this guiding plate.

Partially inserted pushbuttons. The sponge strip is replaced with a fresh one.

Same as above but a different view angle.

The picture shows that I propped the selecting plates assembly with a tool to keep it out of the way while I was inserting the pushbuttons.

Knitting on the full bed (on all needles).

in progress….

When I prepare machines for other people, knitting on the full bed allows me to check a lot of things at once (and knitting JUST the swatch, especially just in the middle of the needle bed, might not show these flaws/problems):
- Are all needles knitting and forming the correct stitches? Do all needles knit (and do not drop stitches)? (Sometimes bent needles get stuck in the carriage, sticky latches form tuck stitches on stockinette, and slightly rusted needle heads might not allow for stitches to slide as easily. Visual inspection can overlook these faults. Additionally, dropped stitches could be due to a bent or warped needle bed.)
- Is the carriage gliding smoothly across the full bed? Without static? With even tension? Sometimes the bed can be uneven (bent/warped from old age or from being dropped), and the problems are discovered only when knitting in that area.
- Is the patterning (in some cases needle selection) correct across the whole bed?
- Are all needles the correct ones? (I didn’t do it, but I heard stories when some people accidentally inserted incorrect needles and were very puzzled why the machine was either getting stuck in that section, dropping stitches, or mispatterning).
Keep in mind that the very last two needles form more like edge stitches rather than full stitches. It is recommended not to knit any patterns on these needles. For example, on Brother machines, these two needles should be pushed forward to C when knitting patterns (some Brother carriages can do it automatically).
Knitting with garter carriage on the full bed:
- It is typically used for blankets, ponchos and other large/wide projects. I found it pretty straightforward (watch video). The garter carriage moves left to right, turns on and off the light at the turn and there is nothing to worry about (like memorizing at which pattern row we stopped, moving the carriage back to be pass the turn light, etc. – you know or will know soon what I mean) when stopping the machine when away or to fix errors.

Brother Profile 551 (KH551) serviced and tested in my shop in June 2026

Brother Profile 551 (also often called Brother KH551) is a standard-gauge knitting machine with four pushbuttons for automatic needle selection and knitting patterned fabrics. Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The post below is dedicated to a specific Brother Profile 551 serviced and tested in my shop in June 2026.

I performed the standard cleaning/servicing steps outlined in my other post.

Briefly: all needles were removed and inspected, the machine was removed from its case and cleaned, the sponge strip was replaced with a new one, and the retaining bar was cleaned. I knitted on the full bed to ensure that the machine knits patterns along the whole needle bed and that all needles form correct stitches. The video of these tests is here. The reasoning for testing on the full bed (rather than demonstrating that the machine knits on a swatch) is described in my other post. The machine formed beautiful stitches: stockinette, sli=, part and holding tuck. I had to take some precautions on the tuck-stitch, but by choosing the right yarn, the machine knitted reliably. I tested two different yarns.

I acquired this machine without a lot of accessories, but I was able to put together a good replacement set. Thus, the machine will come with all major and most minor accessories.

The carriage, carriage handle, carriage lock, and sinker plate are all original. The transfer tools are original from Brother. They show some age-related yellowing. The cast-on combs are original and are in great shape. The cast-on thread is rolled onto a piece of paper (see the image above). I typically recommend using any strong-ish, thin yarn: easy to break/cut and discard if no longer needed. (I even like using random threads better than the cast-on thread).

The row counter is not original. I retrofitted another Brother row counter (of a more modern design). It sits very solidly and works reliably. Check out a short video I made with this new design tested on this particular machine.

The table clamps are still S-shaped, but from a ribber. They worked fine, and I used them during all the tests shown in the video. If you decide to add a ribber to this Profile 551 machine (if you are lucky to find one), these brackets will not affect anything, as the ribber setup comes with its own table and connecting brackets. One needle selection ruler is original (metallic). I am including two other rulers, but they are not original (plastic).

The tension mast is an original Brother part but not original to this model. I feel that the design of this mast is a bit sturdier, but the original Brother Prifile KH551 tension mast came with three slots for three threads. That’s, of course, a slight drawback. But Brother started releasing machines soon after with only two-thread masts. Additionally, a wax can be placed onto this newer mast much more easily. Other replacements are: ratchet tool (a generic one from Brother ribber), hand brush (brand new), picker (a needle selection tool; it is a 3D-printed copy).

The claw weights are not part of the original setup, but they are so important that I am including a pair from my original stash (they are shown in the left corner of the very first image in this blog). I am also including a new needlebed strip (a small roll). The original one was in rough shape. I honestly don’t even think it is needed because the needlebed is embossed with the needle markers. Sometimes the needle strip gets in the way, but the new owner has the option to have one. Sometimes the embossed markings are hard to see.

The machine case and its lid are in pretty good shape. I replaced the deteriorated case “feet” with the 3d printed one. They are printed from a very strong UV-resistant material. So they should last a long time.

The missing accessories are:

tool box and its lid; the tools will be packed in bubble wrap for shipping;

left and right sinker plate yarn hangers: a replacement can be easily made from paper clips; these are used only for fair isle and potentially weaving;
tapestry needle: any needle of your choice will work
oil: get Hoppe’s gun oil from Amazon;
plastic case for spare needles;
accessory stand;
The lid did not have the original wire bracket that holds the sinker plate and the handle inside. I used bungee cords to secure the sinker plate and the handle during transport and storage.

A hard copy of the manual will NOT be included, but it is available online for free

Imperfections:

The metal on the tension mast and table clamps showed some discoloration, and I used silver Rust-Oleum to even it out and prevent potential corrosion.
The tension mast has some yellowing but is still absolutely functional.
The sinker plate had some very minor roughness. Not really rust, but I covered it with a thin layer of Rust-Oleum to prevent any forming in those areas.
The tension dial has a couple of minor dimples.

The ratchet tool might be a bit uncomfortable to use in comparison if it had the original plastic handle. But I honestly did not notice much of a difference.

The handle has a very minor crack. But I saw handles in much worse shape. These machines are over 70 years old, after all.

There is a small tear in the lid, at the very end where the lid connects with the end caps. Unfortunately, there is not much that can be done here. I’ll make sure the ends are packed securely when shipped to avoid further damage.

Here is the serial number for this machine. The picture will be removed after the machine is purchased, received, and inspected.

The machine is already packed and ready to find its next owner.