What was done with this machine in terms of cleaning and refurbishing:
- Included tools that were missing (some are still missing-please read below). All major parts and assesories are included.
- Cleaned outside
- Opened the lid and cleaned under the lids using only isopropanol around the electronics
- Inserted absolutely new sponge and a retaining bar (it is NOT a refurbished retaining/sponge bar). So, it should last longer.
- Inspected all needs – run 2-3 visual inspections under different “angles”. Replaced all defective needles with brand-new ones.
All assesories are included except for:
- Pattern book (it can be downloaded from here)
- A hard copy of the manual (it can be downloaded here. The pdf cover page states that the manual is for KH940 but KH940 and KH930/930e are identical in their operations. The only difference between KH940 and KH930/930e is the size of the electronic storage memory: KH940 has more memory.)
- Design sheets (they are simply graph paper; if you REALLY need it, any graph paper would do)
- Tapestry needle (any plastic or metal needle would do)
- Oil (the container that came with the machine was empty; but regardless – I recommend using newer/fresher oil. I typically use this gun oil)
- Wax (the one that came with the machine was too old and crumbled)
Here are the pictures of all accessories. They all fit into a small build-in compartment (see the two left-hand side photos below).
The hole in the carriage handle is to attach the machine to the motor. The previous owner made this hole, not me. I don’t own such a motor!!!
Tests performed on this machine:
- Tested needle selection – works great!
- Tested on a full bed tuck, slip/part and fair isle – all worked great.
- Tested file transfer – work great! Knitted a small item from this custom pattern.
Read more about pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia: https://mightyknittymachines.com/brother-kh930-electronic-knitting-machine/
Additional notes on this machine:
- During tuck knitting, I always check the tuck wheels to make sure that they are always in their working position (pushed forward). I reach with my hand under the sinker plate while it is still on the bed and check it. When they accidentally slid back, the stitches move slightly forward on the needles and the nest row does not form correctly and a lot of looping occurs. So, this is why in the video you will see me constantly checking under the sinker plate. Once I figures out what to look for in my stitches (namely, not too much moving forward on the needles), I stopped checking these wheels/brushes. I also feel that if this problem occurs, the operator should play a bit with the tension (on the tension mast and on the tension dial) of their yarn. Also, tuck-stitching requires an optimized yarn tension and weight combination.
- The machine is somewhat sensitive to the yarn tension. Honestly, they all are so I recommend when starting a new yarn to play with tension on a small swatch before making a garment and knitting fast.
- The eight pins where the transfer cable gets inserted are fragile. Please be careful.
- Always turn off and even unplug this machine when not using its patterning capabilities. There are stories about motherboards being damaged if left for too long in ON condition. If this happens, replacement boards are available for purchase from somewhere in Honk Kong (but it is a reliable source).
The transfer cable is NOT included. I used my personal one.