These unique knitting machines, Brother KH800 and KH801, make it super easy to make punch cards and knit various patterns.
However, as I started to explore the steps on how to knit these various patterns, I discovered that the manual does not really present all the steps clearly, especially for the two-color fair isle knitting. So, a combination of researching manuals of similarly (with a ratchet) working push-button machines and my own trial & error, will be presented to you below as an attempt to ease up your learning of how to operate these wonderful machines. I also made a video of how I knitted a fair isle on my own Brother KH800 machine.
Before you even start, take a look at your main carriage. Find the N/T/MC knob in the top-right corner (we’ll need the MC settings). Please find the button on the carriage (we’ll need to push both PART buttons in). The slide lever on the carriage is on the settings “3”.
The change lever on the right-hand side of the needle bed in the top corner should be moved to MC.
These are the components we need to pay attention to to change to knit fair isle on Brother KH800 and KH801 knitting machines.
Preparation: knit several rows of stockinet in the main color. The second yarn is threaded into the left-hand side wire of the tension mast.
Step 1. The carriage is on the left side. On the carriage, set the change knob to MC and establish the desired tension (a two-color fair isle is recommended to knit at higher tension numbers). MC change lever is also at the MC setting. Holding cam lever (HCL) is at the setting “3”. Insert a desired punchcard and pull the step indicator up (“unlock” position) so it advances every time we knit one row.
Step 2. Move the carriage to the right. All needles will shift to DI position. Push both PART buttons on the carriage. Double-check your tension. Guide/insert the second yarn into the slot on the left side of the sinker plate.
The manual for the KH800/KH801 knitting machines does a very poor job of showing how to insert/guide the second yarn into the slide slot of the sinker plate. I found an excellent demonstration in the manual for the KH710 knitting machine, which has very similar steps to the knitting fair isle. Also, watch my video on how I did it.
Step 3. Move the ratchet tool to move the needles according to the punch card. Notice they will split into the DI and DII positions. The needles that will knit with the second yarn remained in the DI position. The needles that will knit with the main yarn will move to the DII position. Move the carriage to the left while holding the second yarn gently (watch the video).
Step 4. Before moving the carriage back to the right, activate the needle selection for the second row: move the ratchet tool. As you move the carriage to the right, place the contrasting yarn onto the right-hand side guide of the sinker plate. Also, make sure that the row indicator moves after you pass the V-shaped trigger. If the row indicator does not move, pull it upwards.
Continue these steps.
The same approach can be used on fair isle patterning on pushbutton machines, like Brother KH585, KH588, KH581, KH552, KH601, etc. The carriages for the pushbutton machines and for the 12-stitch punchcard models KH800 and KH801 are the same (except for the slide lever – the 8-pushbutton machines have side levers for the same purpose). Thus, after the needle selection, all consequent actions are very similar for all these machines.
…this post is a collection of tests and tricks I use when I test knitting machines I refurbish. It is a continuous work in progress as I learn more about various knitting machines.
Preparation for the knitting:
After you have fully serviced your machine (read the list of steps I follow in here – sponge bar section is especially important), place the carriage onto the need bed (while ALL needles are in non-working position A). and move it across the needle bed (without the sinker plate attached). Ensure that the carriage runs smoothly on the needle bed. Apply oil if necessary according to the instructions if you feel that your machine does NOT run smoothly. Also, check the contact points (between the carriage and the needle bed) for gunks/rust/debris since they can contribute not only to poor movement of the carriage but also to static accumulation and other problems down the road.
Attach the sinker plate to the carriage according to the instructions. Run the carriage + sinker across the bed (the needles are still in non-working position A).
Using a 1×1 needle selection comb (AKA ruler) move 20-30 needles to the B position (15 needles from the left of the “0” mark and 15 needles to the right). You will have every-other-needle in the B position. Run the carriage over the needles, first, without the sinker plate. You will see how the needles move while you run the carriage. If everything goes well, run the carriage with the sinker plate attached to the carriage.
Move the remaining needles to B position. You will now have 30 needles next to each other, all in B position. Run the carriage and then carraige+sinker over these needles. Watch the needles move freely. If the needles move freely with only the carriage but not with the carriage+sinker, you might have a damaged sinker plate.
If steps 1-4 did not give you any trouble, you are ready to knit your first swatch.
Knitting a first swatch:
Review the manual which yarn is best with your machine. When choosing yarn for your first swatch, stay on the thinner side – we want to have our first knitting steps go smoothly and not go wrong because of the poor yarn choice. Once you learn to know your machine, you will know which yarns it can handle (and what to do so the machine can handle these yarns). For standard machines, I recommend sock-yarn-thickness and even thinner, for bulky and medium gauge machines – use sport-weight yarn.
If your yarn came in a cone or a cake – you can skip this step. If your yarn is in a skein or a ball, you need to use a yarn winder to rewind your yarn into a cake or onto a cone. The reason is that during machine knitting you want as even yarn tension as possible.
Bring 20-30 needles upfront and select every other needle (move them to the working position B). Run the carriage back and forth to even out the needles.
Cast-on: I recommend using a cast-on method with a cast-on comb. Most Brother knitting machines have cast-on combs. Silver/Silver Reed/Studio cast-on combs do not typically come with cast-on combs. Cast-on combs can be purchased online. Or you can use an e-wrap cast-on method. Refer to the instruction manual of your machine for the recommended cast-on method.
Once the first initial row is knit, knit several rows on every other needle. It will give you a good feel for the yarn thickness, tension and carriage behavior. Adjust tension as needed. The carriage needs to run smoothly.
Bring the remaining needles to the working position. Increase the number on the tension dial. On all needles, the yarn tension needs to be looser than on every other needle. Knit several rows.
If all these tests are successful, you can now start experimenting with patterning as well as knitting on a full bed.
This blog is about a specific Brother KH800 knitting machine, which I cleaned, serviced, and tested in March 2024.
To learn about the Brother KH800 model, with all its pros and cons, read my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia.
All needles were removed, cleaned, serviced, and inspected. The sponge in the retaining bar was replaced. The case and the lid were wiped thoroughly but I did not subject the case and the lid to excessive rubbing to remove all staining. So some stains remain. The same applies to the plastic panel: I was able to remove most of the dirt and grime but some minor staining might still be visible.
I installed new weaving brushes (it is typically a pain in the butt to do it – so take good care of them). The old ones completely fell apart. They are not black as the original ones but white with strong bristles.
The machine will come with all major accessories (which fit inside the knitting machine case lid):
extension rails (to accommodate the lace carriage if you are using one or to accommodate the main carriage when you are knitting on the full bed)
tension mast
lace carriage
big and small cast on combs
Most critical minor accessories are included too:
metal 1×1 needle pusher
claw weights (greenish. like the machine)
latch and transfer tools as well as crochet needle
set of 3 spare needles
carriage lock
puncher
table clamps
set lever (also known as ratchet tool)
cleaning hand brush (good for cleaning carriage and removing some lint between the needles)
two carriage handles (one for the main carriage and one for the lace carriage)
row counter (I specifically looked for a greenish row counter to match the machine)
The minor accessories that are NOT included are marked below. These minor accessories do not affect the functioning of the machine. But read below about the punch and pattern cards.
The parafin is only needed for the yarns that are prone to static. The pen is actually for the knit leader and not for the machine. The greaze was old and I tossed it away. Any gun oil will work to service this machine. Any strong thin yarn can serve as a cast-on or waste-yarn thread.
All minor advisories are stored inside the built-in box with the lid.
The handles for both carriage are screw on and are also stored in this storage box. The carriage moves very smoothly on the needlebed.
The machine did not come with the original hard copy of the manual. It can still be found online for free. I can include a printed copy that came with this machine – just let me know but it might add to the weight (1-2 lbs) of the shipping package.
Even though the original pattern and punchcards are missing, it is very easy to make your own cards. I made a video on how to do it and described it in another blog. Follow the links for free pdf-files for the blank and pre-patterned cards. In my video, I printed out and used those cards.
Also, the cards are very easily to make (punch). Simply insert the cut-out of a new card into the punchcard reader and punch the wholes either using the punch provided or using a simple pencil. I describe it in my other blog and show it in my video as well.
The machine can be easily attached to a knit leader using the triangular tripper and the rod above it. Read on the manual of a specific knit leader on how to attach the machine to it.
I knitted several swatches (tuck, slip, stockinet and fair isle) on this machine to ensure the carriage functions properly. I also knitted on the full bed to ensure all needles form proper stitches and that the patterning mechanism works well on the whole needlebed. Watch the video of all tests. The picture below shows the tuck-stitch fabric knitted during these tests.
Check out my blog and a video (…coming soon) on the fair isle patterning on this machine. It was quite interesting.
The panel I knitted during all these tests was converted to this 3-in-1 berett/cowl/hood shown below.
Turned out pretty good!!
Now about imperfections:
The most obvious imperfection is the scratches on the main carriage. They seem to be just cosmetic and did not affect the functioning of the machine.
All other impefections are also cosmetic. Like some minor dents and scratches on the lid and the case (not shown).
KL111 knitleader has all major accessories, including a good-looking hard copy of the manual, mylar sheets, scales, ruler and very important triangular brackets. The post below is about a particular knit leader but to know more details about the KL111 model, refer to my other post.
I did not test the knit leader on the machine but all the buttons, knobs and levers move freely. I inspected it thoroughly and wiped easy-to-remove dust and grime. Some stains remained – I do not like rubbing the plastic parts too extensively out of fear of damaging this old plastic even more.
The ratchet with the white handle is missing. So I will include the ribber spanner that fits well although is not as ergonomic as the original one. The handle can be improved a bit by applying several layers of tape.
The long scales seem like were never used. The mylar sheet also looks in great shape.
The knit leader tripped will be included if your carriage did not come with one.
The control center is in great shape also:
Below are some imperfections I noticed when preparing the knit leader. Most are the different degrees of staining on the boxy of the knit leader.
Brother knitting machines with model numbers KH800 and KH801 have a very unique patterning mechanism: a combination of a punchcard reader with the ratchet tool activating the needle being pushed forward (also known as “needle selection”)
When I was refurbishing a Brother KH800, I had to open the case up to see why the machine was mispatterning. I, thus, had a lot of fun looking at how the patterning works. (By the way, mispatterning was due to the selection strips/plates being tucked together – nothing that a good layer of Kroil oil can’t fix).
Brother KH8000 and KH801 accept punchcards with 12 holes. There are also twelve selection rods.
Punchcard-reader pins poke through the holes in the punchcard when the ratchet tool is moved.
This pattern is then transferred to the patterning rods, which move according to the holes in the punchcard (see the video).
Notice in the picture below how the distance between the rods is no longer even because some of the rods were activated and some were not. This “activation selection” is determined by the punchcard pattern. I was testing this machine with the punchcard with every other hole unpunched.
These rods determine which tabs are pushed towards the needles.
Notice below how these tabs push forward only every other needle….
…according to our punchcard pattern.
Here is a closer look at these patterning tabs. Notice they are grouped in twelve.
Another view from a different angle:
So, if your machine mispatterns, it is very likely due to this mechanism. The good news is: it is probably easy to fix since everything is 100% mechanical.
Although I did not really open up any of the pushbutton machines (4-button like KH551 or 8-button like KH581, KH585, KH588, KH710, etc.) to watch their needle selection mechanism, I suspect that it is performed the same way as on Brother KH800 and KH801.
Even 24-stitch punchcard-reading knitting machines (KH8XX series, like KH840 and KH891) have similar patterning rods.
This article lists several short overviews of projects very friendly for machine knitters who are just beginning to knit on their machines and are tired of just making swatches. Each project builds on the skills introduced in the previous one.
Enjoy, and let me know how it went!
1. Cord
Knitting a cord on your flatbed knitting machine is very easy and fast. These cords can be used for a variety of projects. I use them to insert into hats, bags, and socks as strings but also for decorations.
This project can be done on a full bed of any flat-bed machine (mid, standard or bulky gauge) with or without patterning capabilities. No swatches are needed. While working on this project, you will learn how to 1) cast on with waste yarn, 2) create mock-ribbing, 3) fold the knitted fabric over, 4) cast off, 5) knit a cord (also a skill from the previous tutorial), and 6) make a buttonhole. You will need to know on your own how to sew panels together (mattress stitch or whatever stitch you feel comfortable with). You will also learn about how 1) your machine knits across the full bed, and 2) how all your needles function (whether you have sticky latches or badly forming stitches). It is a fun project and can be done with any yarn of your choice (as long as it knits on the machine of your choice).
3. Vintage girl’s hat, bandana- or headscarf-like shape, with cables
With this simple project, you will learn increases/decreases, buttonhole making, and simple cables. Optional ribbing on the front can be done by hand, on the ribber, or left as is. It can be done on standard, mid-gauge, or bulky knitting machines in a similar way. No gauge calculations are needed.
This is a very simple project, but it requires a lot of yarn. So it is good for destashing. You will use the skills from the previous projects (making cord, mock-ribbing, and folding the fabric on the machine as well as making cables). It can be done on any machine using ALL needles. If you are using the same two contrasting yarns, no swatch is needed: just keep track of how many rows you knit. If using yarns of a different weight, a swatch is recommended to calculate the appropriate number of rows.
Read the full description here or watch a video tutorial.
3. Simple 1 x 1 rib hat.
For this project, you will need a flatbed knitting machine and a ribber attached to it. By doing this project you will learn how to operate your machine with the ribber, how to adjust/attach side weights, and how to cast on and cast off. It is a fun and very easy project to do. The knitted panel can be finished as a hat or as a neck warmer
5. Christmas Bag for presents and decor.
With this project, you will learn how to make a two-color cord, knit mock-ribbing, to make a buttonhole, basic fair-isle patterning, as well as optional tuck- and slip-stitch patterning, cord making, as well as optional usage of garter bar (but can be done without it as well). You will need to know how to insert the cord into the folded fabric, and how to sew panels together (using basic stitching like back-stitch or mattress stitch).
Best if done on a punch card or electronic knitting machine for faster fair-isle patterning with two colors.
I knitted several variations of these cowls/neck-warmers. In fact, this is my favorite project to do while I am testing knitting machines. The reasons are:
This project is done on a full bed, thus, I am checking whether all needles function and knit properly.
This project can be done on any-gauge flat-bed knitting machine (mid, standard or bulky gauge) with or without patterning capabilities. Just choose the correct yarn for your gauge.
No need to count your rows and stitches to calculate gauge, and no worries about changing tensions
While knitting this hat, you will learn about the appropriate tension for the yarn I chose and how your machine will handle different yarns. I start with knitting on every other needle which is easier on the carriage if the yarn is too thick (thus, if you are experiencing problems with knitting on every-other-needle, that means the yarn is definitely too thick).
It is a very easy project and fun. You will not only know you knitting machine better but in the process, you will make something wearable either for yourself, your friends, and relatives or for charity.
While working on this project you will learn how to 1) cast on with waste yarn, 2) create mock-ribbing, 3) fold the knitted fabric over, 4) cast off, 5) knit a cord and 6) make a buttonhole. You will need to know the basic stitches of sewing knitted fabric, like back-stitch, and mattress stitch, and, what yarn is good for you machine.
Below are the instructions on how I knitted the cowl/neck warmer/hood/hat below.
If some steps are unclear, refer to the video tutorial I created. These steps were performed on the Brother machine. Thus, some steps are specific to Brother machines only (like cast-on combs and the part button) but if you already know how to start knitting without the cast-on comb and how to make your machine knit in partial mode in one way, you can easily adjust those instructions below.
Additionally, the project I describe below was made on the standard-gauge knitting machine.
Step 1: Cast-on and knitting mock-ribbing.
With your 1×1 needle selection ruler, bring every-other-needle to the working position (typically B-position).
Run the carriage from right to left and back to even out all needles.
Rezero the row counter.
Thread the waste yarn into the carriage and knit one row.
Hang the cast-on comb
Knit several rows until you are sure all stitches are established well.
Knit one row of contrasting strong yarn or with an unravel cord.
Rezero the row counter again.
Thread the main yarn into the carriage. Hang an optional barrel weight onto the middle of the cast-on comb.
Knit 10 rows.
Make a buttonhole. We will use it to insert the cord into the folded mock-ribbing. For this purpose, remove the stitch closest to the zero-position and put it onto the next needle in working positions. Move the just-emptied needle back to the B-position (standard working position).
Knit 10 more rows.
Fold the mock-ribbing. First, remove the cast-on comb. Then, using a one-eyelet tool, transfer the stitches that are right above the contrasting yarn (remember – the one row we knitted in sub-step 7 above?) onto the needles in non-working positions. Watch this step in the video at approximately 3 min 25 s position. After the stitches were transferred, make sure the needle is in the B-position. Continue for the rest of the fabric.
Grab the stitch right above the contrasting yarn….
…and put it on to empty the needle (in A, non-working, position) on the right.
Then push it to the B position.
Step 2: Knitting the main section
Optional: After the mock ribbing was folded, attach the cast-on comb to the section knitted with waste yarn. Increase the tension dial number by 1-3 numbers and knit one row. Because we just went from knitting on every-other-needle to knitting on all needles, it might be too tight to knit this very first row on the full bed. This is what we are loosening the yarn tension.
Knit 80 rows. (In my demo, I knitted simple stockinet stitch. But you can knit any pattern you desire.) It is about 7-8 inches of the knitted fabric. If you want to make a longer cowl/neck-warmer, or a deeper bonnett, knit more rows. Also, if knitting on a bulky or mid-gauge machine, you might need fewer rows. 7-8 inches of the knitted fabric is a good approximation to get a good size cowl/neck warmer/hat/hood.
Step 3: Second mock-ribbing
Using a one-eyelet tool, transfer the stitches from the every-other-needle to the neighboring needle. Move the needle without the stitch to A position (non-working position, pushed all the way in). Watch the video at 6 min 54 s if this step is unclear. I am also showing in the video that you can use an adjustable stitch transfer tool to move 2-4 stitches at a time. The adjustable tool can be purchased in my independent store or in my Etsy store.
Continue for the rest of the needles. Optional but helpful: hang a claw-weight on the edge of the knitted fabric next to the stitches you are transferring. The transfer will go a bit smoother without snagged yarn.
Increase the yarn tension by 2, i.e., decrease the tension dial by the number 2.
Knit 10 rows on every other needle.
Make a buttonhole as described above in step 1.11. After that knit 10 more rows. Or continue knitting for 10 more rows without making the buttonhole. Maybe you do not want the cord in the second ribbing. I also show in the video that the cord can be inserted into the mock-ribbing fabric without the buttonhole. So, at the end of this step you should have 20 rows of mock ribbing.
Folding the second mock-ribbing: using a one-eyelet tool, transfer stitches from the 1st row of this mock ribbing to the needle in the working position. (See the video for details). In words: find the stitch right above the hole (created when we transferred every other needle) onto the working needle right above it. Continue for the rest of the panel. Even out the needles to be as close to the B-position as possible.
Optional: Hang the cast-on comb with the weight onto the just-folded fabric. Loosen the yarn tension (increase the tension on the carriage dial by 1-2 numbers).
Knit one row.
Step 4: Cast-off
Remove the yarn from the carriage. Let it hang free on the side.
Remove the cast-on comb.
Using the one-eyelet tool, remove the stitch on the very edge of the needle bed and transfer it to the next needle. Manually knit a stitch on this needle (see the video for visual reference). The manipulations in this step are similar to the cast-off in hand-knitting. Continue for the rest of the needle bed.
Close the last stitch and take the panel off the bed. Secure the last stitch with a knot.
Hint: when making a stitch, push the last needle (with a needle with two stitches) to the A-position. In this case, it creates a long stitch and a loose cast-off seam.
Optional: hang the claw weight on the fabric below the last needle in the working position. It will create tension on the fabric for easier removal of the stitches from the needles. Rehang as you cast-off the stitches.
Step 5: Sewing the panels together.
Remove the contrasting yarn by pulling it out of the knitted panel.
Remove the waste-yarn-knitted section. It will come off very easily after the contrasting thread is removed.
Fold the fabric with the right sides touching each other (stockinet sides, in my case).
Start sewing the fabric at the folded section. Match the internal sides of the folded section first. I like using backstitch for such seams (but it actually does not matter how it looks because this will be hidden inside the fold), moving to the outside edges. I like using a mattress-like stitching technique on the outer edges of the folded section of my knitted panel. After the fold, keep on sewing, again with the stitch of your choice. I like back-stitch – it creates very knit edges and seams on both sides.
After reaching the second folded section, again, sew first the internal panels of the fold using a back-stitch and then the external sides using a mattress stitch. Hide the ends of the yarn used to sew the panels.
Step 5: Cord making
Make two cords, roughly 30 inches long. Use your favorite method or make it on your flat-bad knitting machine (follow the steps outlined in my other article).
Secure the ends of the cord: make a knot and then sew through the knot with the remaining yarn (watch my video on cord-making).
Step 6. Inserting the cords.
Insert a safety pin into the knot of the end of the cord.
Insert the safety pin head into the “button hole” we created.
Thread the safety pin with the cord through the fold and pull out from the fold through the “button hole”.
Do the same with the second cord on the second fold. Hint: if you forget to make a button hole, the 1×1 mock stitch ribbing is loose enough where you can insert the head of the safety pin through the stitches.
Happy Knitting!
The same approach can be used for patterned panels, like those shown below.
It can also be done on bulky and mid-gauge machines. Choose a variegated yarn for best effect:
.. this article is a constant work in progress as I collect more information and personal experience… LAST UPDATE: March 2026
… Please, read the whole article first before proceeding.
Abbreviations used below:
KM = knitting machine
If you purchased your KM serviced from a reputable seller, you can this post and go straight to the post where I recommend the very first steps/tests with your new KM.
If you were not as lucky and got a machine that still needs TLC, below are the steps you can follow. A lot of new machine knitters get a machine from friends and relatives or just find one at a garage sale and feel very overwhelmed. Well, I hope the steps below will help you to guide your approach to cleaning and testing your KM.
First inspection, cleaning, and servicing steps:
Check against the manual if all parts are present. (If your KM did not come with a hard copy of the manual, search its model number, and you will easily find a free PDF file of the manual. The most critical ones are a carriage and a sinker; they are a MUST-HAVE. The secondary is a tension mast (I managed to knit on a machine by just holding the yarn in my hand and creating tension by hand, but this is far from ideal, but doable if you have to). Also nice to have are claw weights. If others are missing, you can probably manage to knit without them. If the major parts are missing, search on the Internet to purchase them and while they are arriving, work on the steps below.
Clean/wipe the visible dirt from all parts.
Remove the retaining bar (metal strip sitting on top of the needles). Push it on the side until the other end shows up, and then pull completely out. The manual should mention the retaining bar in the section about needle replacement. If you have a long-tail brush, insert it into the channel for the retaining bar and clean the gunk out of there. DO NOT RUN THE CARRIAGE ON THE NEEDLE BED UNTIL YOU INSERT A RETAINING BAR WITH THE NEW SPONGE BAR. I have a separate blog post dedicated to the retaining and sponge bars and how to clean/refurbish/restore them.
After the sponge bar is out, remove all needles, clean/wipe them, and inspect. I visually inspect if there is deep rust (if there is just shallow rust – I gently polish the needles with fine sandpaper), and obvious bends. Wipe all the needles while inspecting them. Check if the latches move freely back and forth and do not stick (sticky latches can lead to incorrectly formed stitches, especially to tucked stitches).
Vacuum the needle bed from the top (simply run the narrowest attachment your vacuum has over the needle bed). If you are brave, and if the machine has them, unscrew the top plastic panels, detach all the plastic components from the machine’s front panel, and vacuum underneath.
If you are even braver, remove the plastic end-caps and vacuum from the sides as well. But if the machine is clean under those long front panels, you probably don’t need to remove the end caps, which is good news because they are kind of a pain to deal with.
While the panels are out of the way, check if the punchcard reading mechanism moves freely. Often, those gunk up too (or freeze simply due to time) and need to be cleaned. There are video resources available online on how to clean the punchcard reading mechanism. However, I do not recommend disassembling the punchcard mechanism completely without trying less drastic measures (like simply spraying with Kroil oil and cleaning with wipes and Q-tips). It is often not even needed to go that deep, and the error of assembling those intricate mechanisms back happens quite often.
Then check if the buttons on the carriage move freely (middle button and tuck/part buttons). Those often get stuck as well. Kroil Oil will take care of that: spray the Kroil oil over the frozen parts and try to jiggle them every several hours. Reapply Kroil oil as needed.
Check the undercarriage for visible lint, dust, dirt, etc. Clean with Q-tips if needed. If the carriage is very dirty, use the UP lubricant/cleaner for a faster (but significantly smellier) process. Make sure all levers on the undercarriage move symmetrically when you press the buttons on the carriage. Move the levers with your finger or a tool and ensure they move freely and snap back to the original positions without lag.
Inspect and clean the sinker plate. Often, yarn is caught
Insert back all the freshly inspected and cleaned needles.
Insert a refurbished or new retaining bar with the new sponge. (Read my other blog post on how to clean/refurbish/restore them.) I will soon have some sponges and complete retaining bars in my store. Make sure the retaining bar is inserted correctly (with the spongy part touching the needles and the retaining bar being on TOP of the needles)
Put together all large plastic pieces (covers, boxes, and lids) if you removed them for cleaning.
Place the carriage onto the needle bed.
Attach the sinker plate according to the instructions.
Once you are satisfied with all the cleaning, you can start testing your machine. Please read the first tests I typically subject to my freshly refurbished knitting machines in my other article.
Brother KH800 and KH801 knitting machines have unique designs for needle selection: they accept 12-stitch punchcards that are positioned flat on the special panel on the machine (called “card presser”).
Brother KH800 pattern center with the 12-hole card pressure in the middle.
If your machine came with original punchcards, you are super lucky! If you did not get the punchcards, or you want to make more cards for your own custom patterns, it is very easy to do.
Below are step-by-step instructions. You can also watch a video I made with these steps.
You need to cut a piece of paper, 20.5 x 6.5 cm (8 x 2.5 inches). Regular printer paper will work. Or print this file which shows blank cards for KH800. Another option is to print a standard set of cards (from the file downloaded here) and then punch the holes using the steps I will describe below.
Insert the cut-out punch card into the pattern card cassette holder. The manual describes all the steps of inserting the card really well. The only difference from the manual is that you will have to push the paper through the setting pins.
If your machine comes with a special puncher, you are again lucky. You can now use it to punch your pattern through the holes. If your machine did not come with it, you can use a marker with a relatively thick end. Ideally, find a marker that no longer draws (dried up or broken) so it does not draw on the machine.
Continue punching holes according to your desired pattern.
The holes do not have to be fully complete: they just need to be open enough for the patterning rods to go through upon activation.
Watch in the second half of my video how I tested and ensured that the rods indeed went through.
Happy punching and Happy knitting!
Also, read or watch about the patterning mechanism of Brother KH800/801.
