This blog is about a specific Brother KH800 knitting machine, which I cleaned, serviced, and tested in March 2024.
To learn about the Brother KH800 model, with all its pros and cons, read my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia.
All needles were removed, cleaned, serviced, and inspected. The sponge in the retaining bar was replaced. The case and the lid were wiped thoroughly but I did not subject the case and the lid to excessive rubbing to remove all staining. So some stains remain. The same applies to the plastic panel: I was able to remove most of the dirt and grime but some minor staining might still be visible.
I installed new weaving brushes (it is typically a pain in the butt to do it – so take good care of them). The old ones completely fell apart. They are not black as the original ones but white with strong bristles.
The machine will come with all major accessories (which fit inside the knitting machine case lid):
extension rails (to accommodate the lace carriage if you are using one or to accommodate the main carriage when you are knitting on the full bed)
tension mast
lace carriage
big and small cast on combs
Most critical minor accessories are included too:
metal 1×1 needle pusher
claw weights (greenish. like the machine)
latch and transfer tools as well as crochet needle
set of 3 spare needles
carriage lock
puncher
table clamps
set lever (also known as ratchet tool)
cleaning hand brush (good for cleaning carriage and removing some lint between the needles)
two carriage handles (one for the main carriage and one for the lace carriage)
row counter (I specifically looked for a greenish row counter to match the machine)
The minor accessories that are NOT included are marked below. These minor accessories do not affect the functioning of the machine. But read below about the punch and pattern cards.
The parafin is only needed for the yarns that are prone to static. The pen is actually for the knit leader and not for the machine. The greaze was old and I tossed it away. Any gun oil will work to service this machine. Any strong thin yarn can serve as a cast-on or waste-yarn thread.
All minor advisories are stored inside the built-in box with the lid.
The handles for both carriage are screw on and are also stored in this storage box. The carriage moves very smoothly on the needlebed.
The machine did not come with the original hard copy of the manual. It can still be found online for free. I can include a printed copy that came with this machine – just let me know but it might add to the weight (1-2 lbs) of the shipping package.
Even though the original pattern and punchcards are missing, it is very easy to make your own cards. I made a video on how to do it and described it in another blog. Follow the links for free pdf-files for the blank and pre-patterned cards. In my video, I printed out and used those cards.
Also, the cards are very easily to make (punch). Simply insert the cut-out of a new card into the punchcard reader and punch the wholes either using the punch provided or using a simple pencil. I describe it in my other blog and show it in my video as well.
The machine can be easily attached to a knit leader using the triangular tripper and the rod above it. Read on the manual of a specific knit leader on how to attach the machine to it.
I knitted several swatches (tuck, slip, stockinet and fair isle) on this machine to ensure the carriage functions properly. I also knitted on the full bed to ensure all needles form proper stitches and that the patterning mechanism works well on the whole needlebed. Watch the video of all tests. The picture below shows the tuck-stitch fabric knitted during these tests.
Check out my blog and a video (…coming soon) on the fair isle patterning on this machine. It was quite interesting.
The panel I knitted during all these tests was converted to this 3-in-1 berett/cowl/hood shown below.
Turned out pretty good!!
Now about imperfections:
The most obvious imperfection is the scratches on the main carriage. They seem to be just cosmetic and did not affect the functioning of the machine.
All other impefections are also cosmetic. Like some minor dents and scratches on the lid and the case (not shown).
KL111 knitleader has all major accessories, including a good-looking hard copy of the manual, mylar sheets, scales, ruler and very important triangular brackets. The post below is about a particular knit leader but to know more details about the KL111 model, refer to my other post.
I did not test the knit leader on the machine but all the buttons, knobs and levers move freely. I inspected it thoroughly and wiped easy-to-remove dust and grime. Some stains remained – I do not like rubbing the plastic parts too extensively out of fear of damaging this old plastic even more.
The ratchet with the white handle is missing. So I will include the ribber spanner that fits well although is not as ergonomic as the original one. The handle can be improved a bit by applying several layers of tape.
The long scales seem like were never used. The mylar sheet also looks in great shape.
The knit leader tripped will be included if your carriage did not come with one.
The control center is in great shape also:
Below are some imperfections I noticed when preparing the knit leader. Most are the different degrees of staining on the boxy of the knit leader.
Brother knitting machines with model numbers KH800 and KH801 have a very unique patterning mechanism: a combination of a punchcard reader with the ratchet tool activating the needle being pushed forward (also known as “needle selection”)
When I was refurbishing a Brother KH800, I had to open the case up to see why the machine was mispatterning. I, thus, had a lot of fun looking at how the patterning works. (By the way, mispatterning was due to the selection strips/plates being tucked together – nothing that a good layer of Kroil oil can’t fix).
Brother KH8000 and KH801 accept punchcards with 12 holes. There are also twelve selection rods.
Punchcard-reader pins poke through the holes in the punchcard when the ratchet tool is moved.
This pattern is then transferred to the patterning rods, which move according to the holes in the punchcard (see the video).
Notice in the picture below how the distance between the rods is no longer even because some of the rods were activated and some were not. This “activation selection” is determined by the punchcard pattern. I was testing this machine with the punchcard with every other hole unpunched.
These rods determine which tabs are pushed towards the needles.
Notice below how these tabs push forward only every other needle….
…according to our punchcard pattern.
Here is a closer look at these patterning tabs. Notice they are grouped in twelve.
Another view from a different angle:
So, if your machine mispatterns, it is very likely due to this mechanism. The good news is: it is probably easy to fix since everything is 100% mechanical.
Although I did not really open up any of the pushbutton machines (4-button like KH551 or 8-button like KH581, KH585, KH588, KH710, etc.) to watch their needle selection mechanism, I suspect that it is performed the same way as on Brother KH800 and KH801.
Even 24-stitch punchcard-reading knitting machines (KH8XX series, like KH840 and KH891) have similar patterning rods.
This article lists several short overviews of projects very friendly for machine knitters who are just beginning to knit on their machines and are tired of just making swatches. Each project builds on the skills introduced in the previous one.
Enjoy, and let me know how it went!
1. Cord
Knitting a cord on your flatbed knitting machine is very easy and fast. These cords can be used for a variety of projects. I use them to insert into hats, bags, and socks as strings but also for decorations.
This project can be done on a full bed of any flat-bed machine (mid, standard or bulky gauge) with or without patterning capabilities. No swatches are needed. While working on this project, you will learn how to 1) cast on with waste yarn, 2) create mock-ribbing, 3) fold the knitted fabric over, 4) cast off, 5) knit a cord (also a skill from the previous tutorial), and 6) make a buttonhole. You will need to know on your own how to sew panels together (mattress stitch or whatever stitch you feel comfortable with). You will also learn about how 1) your machine knits across the full bed, and 2) how all your needles function (whether you have sticky latches or badly forming stitches). It is a fun project and can be done with any yarn of your choice (as long as it knits on the machine of your choice).
3. Vintage girl’s hat, bandana- or headscarf-like shape, with cables
With this simple project, you will learn increases/decreases, buttonhole making, and simple cables. Optional ribbing on the front can be done by hand, on the ribber, or left as is. It can be done on standard, mid-gauge, or bulky knitting machines in a similar way. No gauge calculations are needed.
This is a very simple project, but it requires a lot of yarn. So it is good for destashing. You will use the skills from the previous projects (making cord, mock-ribbing, and folding the fabric on the machine as well as making cables). It can be done on any machine using ALL needles. If you are using the same two contrasting yarns, no swatch is needed: just keep track of how many rows you knit. If using yarns of a different weight, a swatch is recommended to calculate the appropriate number of rows.
Read the full description here or watch a video tutorial.
3. Simple 1 x 1 rib hat.
For this project, you will need a flatbed knitting machine and a ribber attached to it. By doing this project you will learn how to operate your machine with the ribber, how to adjust/attach side weights, and how to cast on and cast off. It is a fun and very easy project to do. The knitted panel can be finished as a hat or as a neck warmer
5. Christmas Bag for presents and decor.
With this project, you will learn how to make a two-color cord, knit mock-ribbing, to make a buttonhole, basic fair-isle patterning, as well as optional tuck- and slip-stitch patterning, cord making, as well as optional usage of garter bar (but can be done without it as well). You will need to know how to insert the cord into the folded fabric, and how to sew panels together (using basic stitching like back-stitch or mattress stitch).
Best if done on a punch card or electronic knitting machine for faster fair-isle patterning with two colors.
I knitted several variations of these cowls/neck-warmers. In fact, this is my favorite project to do while I am testing knitting machines. The reasons are:
This project is done on a full bed, thus, I am checking whether all needles function and knit properly.
This project can be done on any-gauge flat-bed knitting machine (mid, standard or bulky gauge) with or without patterning capabilities. Just choose the correct yarn for your gauge.
No need to count your rows and stitches to calculate gauge, and no worries about changing tensions
While knitting this hat, you will learn about the appropriate tension for the yarn I chose and how your machine will handle different yarns. I start with knitting on every other needle which is easier on the carriage if the yarn is too thick (thus, if you are experiencing problems with knitting on every-other-needle, that means the yarn is definitely too thick).
It is a very easy project and fun. You will not only know you knitting machine better but in the process, you will make something wearable either for yourself, your friends, and relatives or for charity.
While working on this project you will learn how to 1) cast on with waste yarn, 2) create mock-ribbing, 3) fold the knitted fabric over, 4) cast off, 5) knit a cord and 6) make a buttonhole. You will need to know the basic stitches of sewing knitted fabric, like back-stitch, and mattress stitch, and, what yarn is good for you machine.
Below are the instructions on how I knitted the cowl/neck warmer/hood/hat below.
If some steps are unclear, refer to the video tutorial I created. These steps were performed on the Brother machine. Thus, some steps are specific to Brother machines only (like cast-on combs and the part button) but if you already know how to start knitting without the cast-on comb and how to make your machine knit in partial mode in one way, you can easily adjust those instructions below.
Additionally, the project I describe below was made on the standard-gauge knitting machine.
Step 1: Cast-on and knitting mock-ribbing.
With your 1×1 needle selection ruler, bring every-other-needle to the working position (typically B-position).
Run the carriage from right to left and back to even out all needles.
Rezero the row counter.
Thread the waste yarn into the carriage and knit one row.
Hang the cast-on comb
Knit several rows until you are sure all stitches are established well.
Knit one row of contrasting strong yarn or with an unravel cord.
Rezero the row counter again.
Thread the main yarn into the carriage. Hang an optional barrel weight onto the middle of the cast-on comb.
Knit 10 rows.
Make a buttonhole. We will use it to insert the cord into the folded mock-ribbing. For this purpose, remove the stitch closest to the zero-position and put it onto the next needle in working positions. Move the just-emptied needle back to the B-position (standard working position).
Knit 10 more rows.
Fold the mock-ribbing. First, remove the cast-on comb. Then, using a one-eyelet tool, transfer the stitches that are right above the contrasting yarn (remember – the one row we knitted in sub-step 7 above?) onto the needles in non-working positions. Watch this step in the video at approximately 3 min 25 s position. After the stitches were transferred, make sure the needle is in the B-position. Continue for the rest of the fabric.
Grab the stitch right above the contrasting yarn….
…and put it on to empty the needle (in A, non-working, position) on the right.
Then push it to the B position.
Step 2: Knitting the main section
Optional: After the mock ribbing was folded, attach the cast-on comb to the section knitted with waste yarn. Increase the tension dial number by 1-3 numbers and knit one row. Because we just went from knitting on every-other-needle to knitting on all needles, it might be too tight to knit this very first row on the full bed. This is what we are loosening the yarn tension.
Knit 80 rows. (In my demo, I knitted simple stockinet stitch. But you can knit any pattern you desire.) It is about 7-8 inches of the knitted fabric. If you want to make a longer cowl/neck-warmer, or a deeper bonnett, knit more rows. Also, if knitting on a bulky or mid-gauge machine, you might need fewer rows. 7-8 inches of the knitted fabric is a good approximation to get a good size cowl/neck warmer/hat/hood.
Step 3: Second mock-ribbing
Using a one-eyelet tool, transfer the stitches from the every-other-needle to the neighboring needle. Move the needle without the stitch to A position (non-working position, pushed all the way in). Watch the video at 6 min 54 s if this step is unclear. I am also showing in the video that you can use an adjustable stitch transfer tool to move 2-4 stitches at a time. The adjustable tool can be purchased in my independent store or in my Etsy store.
Continue for the rest of the needles. Optional but helpful: hang a claw-weight on the edge of the knitted fabric next to the stitches you are transferring. The transfer will go a bit smoother without snagged yarn.
Increase the yarn tension by 2, i.e., decrease the tension dial by the number 2.
Knit 10 rows on every other needle.
Make a buttonhole as described above in step 1.11. After that knit 10 more rows. Or continue knitting for 10 more rows without making the buttonhole. Maybe you do not want the cord in the second ribbing. I also show in the video that the cord can be inserted into the mock-ribbing fabric without the buttonhole. So, at the end of this step you should have 20 rows of mock ribbing.
Folding the second mock-ribbing: using a one-eyelet tool, transfer stitches from the 1st row of this mock ribbing to the needle in the working position. (See the video for details). In words: find the stitch right above the hole (created when we transferred every other needle) onto the working needle right above it. Continue for the rest of the panel. Even out the needles to be as close to the B-position as possible.
Optional: Hang the cast-on comb with the weight onto the just-folded fabric. Loosen the yarn tension (increase the tension on the carriage dial by 1-2 numbers).
Knit one row.
Step 4: Cast-off
Remove the yarn from the carriage. Let it hang free on the side.
Remove the cast-on comb.
Using the one-eyelet tool, remove the stitch on the very edge of the needle bed and transfer it to the next needle. Manually knit a stitch on this needle (see the video for visual reference). The manipulations in this step are similar to the cast-off in hand-knitting. Continue for the rest of the needle bed.
Close the last stitch and take the panel off the bed. Secure the last stitch with a knot.
Hint: when making a stitch, push the last needle (with a needle with two stitches) to the A-position. In this case, it creates a long stitch and a loose cast-off seam.
Optional: hang the claw weight on the fabric below the last needle in the working position. It will create tension on the fabric for easier removal of the stitches from the needles. Rehang as you cast-off the stitches.
Step 5: Sewing the panels together.
Remove the contrasting yarn by pulling it out of the knitted panel.
Remove the waste-yarn-knitted section. It will come off very easily after the contrasting thread is removed.
Fold the fabric with the right sides touching each other (stockinet sides, in my case).
Start sewing the fabric at the folded section. Match the internal sides of the folded section first. I like using backstitch for such seams (but it actually does not matter how it looks because this will be hidden inside the fold), moving to the outside edges. I like using a mattress-like stitching technique on the outer edges of the folded section of my knitted panel. After the fold, keep on sewing, again with the stitch of your choice. I like back-stitch – it creates very knit edges and seams on both sides.
After reaching the second folded section, again, sew first the internal panels of the fold using a back-stitch and then the external sides using a mattress stitch. Hide the ends of the yarn used to sew the panels.
Step 5: Cord making
Make two cords, roughly 30 inches long. Use your favorite method or make it on your flat-bad knitting machine (follow the steps outlined in my other article).
Secure the ends of the cord: make a knot and then sew through the knot with the remaining yarn (watch my video on cord-making).
Step 6. Inserting the cords.
Insert a safety pin into the knot of the end of the cord.
Insert the safety pin head into the “button hole” we created.
Thread the safety pin with the cord through the fold and pull out from the fold through the “button hole”.
Do the same with the second cord on the second fold. Hint: if you forget to make a button hole, the 1×1 mock stitch ribbing is loose enough where you can insert the head of the safety pin through the stitches.
Happy Knitting!
The same approach can be used for patterned panels, like those shown below.
It can also be done on bulky and mid-gauge machines. Choose a variegated yarn for best effect:
.. this article is a constant work in progress as I collect more information and personal experience… LAST UPDATE: March 2026
… Please, read the whole article first before proceeding.
Abbreviations used below:
KM = knitting machine
If you purchased your KM serviced from a reputable seller, you can this post and go straight to the post where I recommend the very first steps/tests with your new KM.
If you were not as lucky and got a machine that still needs TLC, below are the steps you can follow. A lot of new machine knitters get a machine from friends and relatives or just find one at a garage sale and feel very overwhelmed. Well, I hope the steps below will help you to guide your approach to cleaning and testing your KM.
First inspection, cleaning, and servicing steps:
Check against the manual if all parts are present. (If your KM did not come with a hard copy of the manual, search its model number, and you will easily find a free PDF file of the manual. The most critical ones are a carriage and a sinker; they are a MUST-HAVE. The secondary is a tension mast (I managed to knit on a machine by just holding the yarn in my hand and creating tension by hand, but this is far from ideal, but doable if you have to). Also nice to have are claw weights. If others are missing, you can probably manage to knit without them. If the major parts are missing, search on the Internet to purchase them and while they are arriving, work on the steps below.
Clean/wipe the visible dirt from all parts.
Remove the retaining bar (metal strip sitting on top of the needles). Push it on the side until the other end shows up, and then pull completely out. The manual should mention the retaining bar in the section about needle replacement. If you have a long-tail brush, insert it into the channel for the retaining bar and clean the gunk out of there. DO NOT RUN THE CARRIAGE ON THE NEEDLE BED UNTIL YOU INSERT A RETAINING BAR WITH THE NEW SPONGE BAR. I have a separate blog post dedicated to the retaining and sponge bars and how to clean/refurbish/restore them.
After the sponge bar is out, remove all needles, clean/wipe them, and inspect. I visually inspect if there is deep rust (if there is just shallow rust – I gently polish the needles with fine sandpaper), and obvious bends. Wipe all the needles while inspecting them. Check if the latches move freely back and forth and do not stick (sticky latches can lead to incorrectly formed stitches, especially to tucked stitches).
Vacuum the needle bed from the top (simply run the narrowest attachment your vacuum has over the needle bed). If you are brave, and if the machine has them, unscrew the top plastic panels, detach all the plastic components from the machine’s front panel, and vacuum underneath.
If you are even braver, remove the plastic end-caps and vacuum from the sides as well. But if the machine is clean under those long front panels, you probably don’t need to remove the end caps, which is good news because they are kind of a pain to deal with.
While the panels are out of the way, check if the punchcard reading mechanism moves freely. Often, those gunk up too (or freeze simply due to time) and need to be cleaned. There are video resources available online on how to clean the punchcard reading mechanism. However, I do not recommend disassembling the punchcard mechanism completely without trying less drastic measures (like simply spraying with Kroil oil and cleaning with wipes and Q-tips). It is often not even needed to go that deep, and the error of assembling those intricate mechanisms back happens quite often.
Then check if the buttons on the carriage move freely (middle button and tuck/part buttons). Those often get stuck as well. Kroil Oil will take care of that: spray the Kroil oil over the frozen parts and try to jiggle them every several hours. Reapply Kroil oil as needed.
Check the undercarriage for visible lint, dust, dirt, etc. Clean with Q-tips if needed. If the carriage is very dirty, use the UP lubricant/cleaner for a faster (but significantly smellier) process. Make sure all levers on the undercarriage move symmetrically when you press the buttons on the carriage. Move the levers with your finger or a tool and ensure they move freely and snap back to the original positions without lag.
Inspect and clean the sinker plate. Often, yarn is caught
Insert back all the freshly inspected and cleaned needles.
Insert a refurbished or new retaining bar with the new sponge. (Read my other blog post on how to clean/refurbish/restore them.) I will soon have some sponges and complete retaining bars in my store. Make sure the retaining bar is inserted correctly (with the spongy part touching the needles and the retaining bar being on TOP of the needles)
Put together all large plastic pieces (covers, boxes, and lids) if you removed them for cleaning.
Place the carriage onto the needle bed.
Attach the sinker plate according to the instructions.
Once you are satisfied with all the cleaning, you can start testing your machine. Please read the first tests I typically subject to my freshly refurbished knitting machines in my other article.
Brother KH800 and KH801 knitting machines have unique designs for needle selection: they accept 12-stitch punchcards that are positioned flat on the special panel on the machine (called “card presser”).
Brother KH800 pattern center with the 12-hole card pressure in the middle.
If your machine came with original punchcards, you are super lucky! If you did not get the punchcards, or you want to make more cards for your own custom patterns, it is very easy to do.
Below are step-by-step instructions. You can also watch a video I made with these steps.
You need to cut a piece of paper, 20.5 x 6.5 cm (8 x 2.5 inches). Regular printer paper will work. Or print this file which shows blank cards for KH800. Another option is to print a standard set of cards (from the file downloaded here) and then punch the holes using the steps I will describe below.
Insert the cut-out punch card into the pattern card cassette holder. The manual describes all the steps of inserting the card really well. The only difference from the manual is that you will have to push the paper through the setting pins.
If your machine comes with a special puncher, you are again lucky. You can now use it to punch your pattern through the holes. If your machine did not come with it, you can use a marker with a relatively thick end. Ideally, find a marker that no longer draws (dried up or broken) so it does not draw on the machine.
Continue punching holes according to your desired pattern.
The holes do not have to be fully complete: they just need to be open enough for the patterning rods to go through upon activation.
Watch in the second half of my video how I tested and ensured that the rods indeed went through.
Happy punching and Happy knitting!
Also, read or watch about the patterning mechanism of Brother KH800/801.
If you own a Brother flat-bed knitting machines, like pushbutton KH551, KH585, KH588 and KH710, or Brother punchcard machine like KH830, KH840, KH860, KH890, etc., or even electronic models, like Brother KH910, KH930, KH940, KH950, KH965, and even KH970, you can make cords on these machines in just quick 5 minutes or less.
The steps are outlined below. Or, if you are a visual learner or some terms in this article are not quite clear, watch this video.
1. Move the carriage to the right-hand side of the needle bed and press the right-hand side PART button.
2. Move to the most forward position 3-4 needles and perform an e-wrap cast-on with the short end of the yarn being on the left side. This post does not go into details into e-wrap cast-on, so if you are unsure how to do it, there are a lot of online resources on it.
3. Thread the long piece of the yarn through the carriage as usual.
4. Move the carriage from left to right while pulling the short end of the yarn down. After the first tow is knitted, if you prefer, attach the claw weight to the formed stitches. Or, pull the knitted fabric down by a free hand.
5. Continue knitting with the carriage moving it side to side while pulling the formed cord with the free hand.
6. When a desired cord length is achieved, cast off with your desired method. Tie a knot on each end and fasten the knot by sewing several stitches over the know with the yarn left on each end.
The cord can be used for hoods, hats, neck warmers, or for decorations.
Brother KH830 is a knitting machine with 200 needles, positioned 4.5 mm apart. This machine is capable of automatic patterning and needle selection performed using a punchcard reading mechanism.
The post below is dedicated to this specific machine. To read details (including the pros and cons of the Brother KH830 model in general, refer to a blog article dedicated to this model.
Brother KH830 knitting machine tested by me in January 2024 comes with all major assesories: tension mast, cast-on combs, lace carriage, row counter, and extension rails.
All major assesories fit nicely into the lid. I did not knit lace during my tests by all knobs and levers move freely on the lace carriage.
Almost all minor assesories are included as well.
The minor assesories that will not be included are:
Hard copy of the manual but it can be found online for free.
Tapestry needle (any needle will work).
Wax and wax container
Oil (the one that came with the machine was too old). Use Hoppe’s Elite Gun Oil from Amazon instead.
The rod for the card reader was missing. So, I used a hand-knitting needle instead and it worked fine: all the tests shown in my video were performed with my custom-made card-reader rod.
All tools and minor assesories fit into the built-in storage box.
Additionally, I included brand new (new stock) claw weights because the old ones had bent teeth. The little knob for the card reader was cracked, So I replaced it with the freshly 3d printed one.
I cleaned the machine, replaced the sponge in the retaining bar, and cleaned and inspected all needles.
To test the machine’s functions, I knitted on a full bed using tuck-, slip- and fair isle patterning (see the video of these tests). I knit on a full bed while testing my machines because I want to make sure all needles knit and form stitches correctly (without sticky latches and without forming tuck stitches). In the test video, you will see how I identified two flawed needles. I ran this test until I could obtain a knitted panel without any tucked or mispatterned stitches.
This model already has built-in (or preinstalled by the previous owner) Garter carriage bars.
The following paragraphs list minor flaws I identified:
The card needs to be guided into the card reader with a bit more attention than usual. Because if you don’t pay attention, it might get inserted a bit crooked and mess up your patterning. So, carefully line up with the whole and then watch if the card goes in smoothly. If the card is lopsided in one direction, pull gently to straighten.
There is a minor crack on the plastic panel to the right of the card reading mechanism. There is also a minor scuff (in front) and a microcrack (to the left) of the punchcard reading mechanism. Those did not affect knitting.
There are a couple of minor scuffs on the front panel and on the case as well. The pictures below show the most noticeable out of all of them.
The end caps of the bottom and top parts mismatch in color (the machine came to me this way) but the case still closes well without any problems. There are only some minor gaps probably due to the age of this machine.
One of the cast-on combs has minor bents but it does not prevent them from being used effectively (for all my tests I used those combs shown below).
The carriage has some minor rust or wear/tear rust spots. (These spots are pretty typical for these vintage machines.) I treated them with protective oil. I did not observe any static while knitting or any other problems.
Despite these minor flaws, this machine worked great. I knitted the Christmas-themed bag that I will use next year to put presents in 🙂 I hope you soon will be able to make something even more beautiful.
… this article is constantly being updated depending on the questions my customers ask me. So, check frequently.
LAST UPDATE: March 22, 2026
My customers often ask me: what machine will I recommend for a beginner, for a fiber artist, for an experienced hand-knitter, to start a small craft business, or to experiment with stitches and techniques?
There are several things to consider. For example:
You are a hand-knitter (or crocheter) with a large stash of yarn and fiber, or your stitches are not even, or the small finger movements are no longer feasible for you;
or you have never hand-knitted before and just want to explore what machine-knitting is.
If you know how to hand-knit, then the next question is: what do you want to do with this machine? Design cloth, make new fabrics, make custom patterns, or simply knit through your yarn stash? Do you want to make blankets and throws and if yes, how wide? Also, ask yourself: do I just want to knit for friends and family or to sell? The next series of questions is how much patterning you would like your machine to do. And of course, you need to have a clear picture of what your budget is and how comfortable you would feel with servicing a new-to-you machine.
Here are some of the things to consider for the options mentioned above.
If you are considering getting a machine to go through your stash quicker, check what is the thickness of the yarn you have the most. If sport-weight and below, you will be able to go through your stash with the standard-gauge knitting machine. If thicker – then you should consider getting bulky and mid-gauge knitting machines. Fine-gauge knitting machines create wonderful, profesionally-looking fabrics, but they are not recommended for knitters who are just starting to explore machine knitting.
Overall, good entry-level knitting machines are circular plastic ones (like Addi or Sentro), and plastic flat-bed mid-gauge, like Brother KX350 or Silver Reed LK-series. These will take worsted yarns or double-threaded thinner yarn (available in craft stores for hand knitting) and will create lots of great hats, scarves, vests, and simple sweaters.
If you are a hand-knitter transitioning that just wants to make sure all stitches are even, the panels are knitted faster but you are not quite ready to give up the satisfaction from hand manipulation stitches (like creating cables, lace, etc.), consider standard-, bulky, and/or mid-gauge knitting machines with only manual/basic patterning capabilities.
If you want to create a lot of intricate patterns and designs, you will need to consider machines that can pattern with less annual needle selection and stitch manipulation. Namely, the needles would move to the patterning positions with some button pressing and the type of stitches will form in a predetermined way. The highest technology for such performance is electronic knitting machines. Those not only have several hundred built-in patterns but can also accept custom patterns from external sources. You can create those patterns yourself. Knitters can still do all the same manual stitch manipulations on electronic machines as on basic knitting machines (just turn off the electronics and select needles by hand). Read separate posts on how to choose Brother and/or Studio/Silver Reed/Singer electronic machines. Also, let’s not forget that Passap also made electronic machines for hobbyists and small shops.
If you are not super technology-savvy and could settle for less intricate patterns, consider machines with punchcard-reading capabilities. They come in bulk and standard gauges. The repetition pattern is typically 12-24 stitches. There are so many various designs circulating on premade punchcards. You can also punch your own cards (doable but quite a tedious process). Some drawbacks are somewhat finicky punchcard reading mechanisms, that sometimes cause troubles. Also, punching custom-punchcards is somewhat a tedious process but doable with enough patience and practice. On a punchcard machine, knitters can still do all the same manipulation and stitches as on manual/basic machines if the punchcard reader is not activated.
If even this seems too much to manage, consider push-button or turn-knob machines. These machines offer 4- to 8-stitch repeat patterns. With some hand manipulations, patterns with more stitch repetitions can be accomplished. Despite being the oldest patterning technology in machine knitting, these machines are robust (almost all metal), and offer endless possibilities. I only saw standard- and fine-gauge turn-knob and push-button machines. I put couple of articles together on pros and cons of pushbutton, turn-knob, punchcard and electronic knitting machines.
A lot of fiber artists like pushbutton machines a lot because they feel more control over the stitch manipulation and needle selection, yet it is still not completely manual. However, sometimes it is hard to accessorize these machines with attachments (knit-leader, ribber, color changer) due to their vintage nature.
Now, about picking a machine depending on your desired projects. If you know for sure that you want to knit sweaters or garments, you should probably get a machine with a built-in knit leader (aka charting device) or a machine that can be attached to one. Some older models of knitting machines cannot be accessorized with knit leaders, so keep that in mind. There are only a couple of models of Brother Machines with built-in knit leaders (most popular ones are Brother KH881, KH891), while Singer/Silver Reed/Empisal KNitmaster/Stuio were more prolific in that sense. Check out a full list.
If you want to knit beanies: do you want them to be seamless (then get a circular machine, which are very affordable) or don’t you mind seams (flat bed is ok in this case)? Or what about socks? Circular sock machines are pretty expensive. Plastic circular machines are be used as well, but socks do not come out as nice looking. There are patterns for flat-bed machines for socks with and without seams and their looks are different as well depening on the technique.
If you want to knit colored patterns (jacquard or fair-isle) with more than two colors, your desired machines should probably be compatible with color changers unless you are willing to manually changing color, which is a rewarding but tedious process. Also, do you want to knit double jacquard, no floats in the back? Then you will need your machine to be compatible with a ribber. Some ribbers have an automatic option to allow knitters to know double-jacquard semi-automatically (read on Brother KR850 ribbers). Some still require hand manipulations, but much easier than if you did not have a ribber.
If you want to knit blankets that create knits mostly resembling handknitting, get a machine with the most stitches in a row like a mid-gauge manual SK160 or electronic SK860, but, boy, they are pricey and hard to find. Standard-gauge machines will knit wide enough panels but it will look like machine knitting. If you want to knit custom patterns, or for production, consider electronic machines as they can be fitted with many additional accessories later. Additionally, for blankets, knitters often get a couple of plastic bed machines, like HK100 and KX350, and combine the beds (it is very easy to do – just remove the connecting plates and then reconnect the plastic parts of the bed onto the first bed) to get a double length.
With regards to the manufacturer, very popular machines for beginners are Brother (also branded under Knit King and other names) and Silver Reed (also branded under Singer and Studio names). The parts for these machines are still available in the new and used markets, which is a huge advantage. There are other wonderful knitting machine makers, including Toyota, Corona, Passap, etc.
A lot also depends on your budget. Plastic flatbeds are typically less expensive. Brother machines in general are a bit more expensive than Silver Reed, but it all depends on the dealer or the marketplace where you are looking. Additionally, the more patterning capability diversity the machines have, the more expensive it is (because it is more desirable). Thus, electronic machines typically cost more than manual or pushbutton. Additionally, bulky machines are more expensive than standard-gauge machines. Mid- and fine-gauge are the most expensive because not so many of them were on the market to begin with and they are highly desirable. As you can now guess, the most expensive machines are electronic bulky and mid-gauge machines. All these machines have their pros and cons, about which you can read in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia.
You need to think about what kind of stitches and fabric you want to knit. Lace? – make sure your machine comes with a lace carriage. Garter stitches? – Make sure your machine is compatible with Garter carriages (only standard-gauge Brother knitting machines model numbers KH8xx and up). Fair Isle? – better if you can use at least two yarns at a time. Or make sure your machine is compatible with a color changer. The same principle applies to weaving.
Also, would you like to knit both purl- and knit-stitches? A ribbing attachment does a good job doing that so choose a machine that can be matched with a ribber. Ribbers for electronic and punchcard machines are somewhat easier to find than ribbers for pushbutton and turn knob machines but they are still doable. Another nice attachment that can knit purl stitches, is a Garter carriage but it is only available for Brother knitting machines.
Also, consider your physical limitations. Can you lift a 20+ pound knitting machine? If yes, then metal flat beds are indeed for you. If not, you should consider getting a plastic flat or circular bed knitting machine. The latter ones are also great if you cannot live without knitting and want to travel with your machine.
Last but not least, consider how much you want to grow with your new hobby of machine knitting. (I know – sometimes we don’t know what we don’t know but we know ourselves). For example, do you think you might outgrow the basic functions of your machine quickly and will want to purchase add-on accessories (ribbers, color changes, etc.)? If so, consider getting machines for which these accessories exist and are easy to find. For example, some basic vintage machines never had ribbers or color changers manufactured for them. Some push-button Brother machines and some turn-knob Silver Reeds had ribbers but those are hard to find. So, settle on punchcard-reading machines.
But I do not recommend buying a machine with all accessories at once (Unless you came across a super deal in a local garage sale where the machine is included with all accessories). You might feel overwhelmed, and intimidated and might regret spending all that money at once. need to buy all gadgets at once. For example, if you can’t get a hold of a machine with built-in knit leader, but a machine with a built-in knit leader landed on your radar, you should go for is and get a stand-alone knit leader later while you are learning a new-to-you machine, including shaping (stitch transfer for decreases, patterning, gauging, switching, etc.)
Overall, I would suggest just to trust your gut, your budget and your skills. For example, if you are not tech-savvy, electronic machines might not be the right choice for you. Or you will only be limited to the built-in patterns (but there are plenty of those). If you are having issues with hands, do not get machines where patterning is activated with a ratchet tool (Brother push-button machines, some Toyota machines and a 12-stitch punchcard Brother KH800 model).
To sum up and not considering factors like maintenance and availability of the spare parts: if you are just exploring and want to get rid of your hand-knitting yarn stash, get a simple machine, like Addi or mid-gauge plastic bed (like KX350 or LK100). If you are exploring but with specific projects in mind, get machines that can pattern more automatically and can grow with you.
I wish all of you good luck with discovering your dream knitting machine and starting your new adventure of machine knitting. Shoot me a comment on what machine you decided to get and why.
