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The demo below was made on a bulky knitting machine (Brother KH230), but it can be applicable to any knitting machine of any gauge (standard, mid-, and fine-gauges): push-button machines like Brother KH551 and KH588, punchcard machines like Brother KH840 and Studio mod. 360, Silver Reed SK280 and even electronic knitting machines without using their electronic functions, just to name a few.

The video of the steps can be found here. My two yarns were different (the fuchsia yarn was thicker, and the pink yarn was thinner), so I had to knit a couple of swatches to figure out how many rows to knit to have the same length measurements. If you are a bit off, blocking will solve it (like ironing in sewing). By knitting swatches, you’ll also determine what is the best tension to run the yarn of your choice at.

1. Knitting the mock-ribbing.

– Bring every-other needle to position B across the whole needlebed or as desired. Cast-on using a cast-on comb with waste yarn. Knit several rows with the waste yarn. The last row (before starting knitting with main yarns) should be with either an unravel cord or any other easy-to-remove yarn.

– Reset the row counter to zero. Knit ten (or as many as desired) rows using yarn #1 (the backing yarn: in my case, the fuchsia colored yarn).

– Remove yarn #1 from the sinker plate (you can cut it or secure it behind the bed, out of the way) and thread a second yarn (from the side, yarn #2).

– Apply weights when needed on the edges to keep them neat and on the cast-on comb as well (which is especially needed for bulkier yarns).

– Knit 12 rows with yarn #2 (I knitted two more rows because my yarn #2 was thinner and also because I wanted the folded mock-ribbing to overhang a bit on the wrong side and not on the right side). I didn’t want any fuchsia color to show on the “right” side of the fold.

2. Folding the mock ribbing to create a rim for the cord (which we’ll add later).

– Remove side weights and remove the cast-on comb.

– Using a single-tip needle transfer tool, grab a yarn of the very first stitch on the first row knitted with yarn #2 and move it to the needle that is currently in position A. After the stitch is latched onto the needle, push this needle to the B position. Continue throughout the whole width of the knitted panel. At the end, you will have all needles in the B positions.

3. Preparing the front panel to knit cables.

– Hang the cast on comb on just-bolded mock-ribbing fold and add a weight onto it (to push the folded fabric a bit down so it does not get in the way of the carriage; without the weights, the folded fabric might jam the carriage).

– Loosen the tension a bit by 1-2 digits on the carriage dial (because now we have ALL needles in B position) and knit two rows with yarn #2 (the right-side yarn).

– Set the tension back to the optimum tension for yarn #2, and knit two more rows.

– Preparing for the mock-purl runners:

a) Starting with the needles in the center (closest to position “zero”), gently nudge the two needles on each side of it slightly forward. Perform this after every four needles. The stitches on the needles we slightly pushed forward will be transferred to the neighboring needles (and the freed needles will be pushed to A position). This empty space will create separation in the fabric, which will mimic the effect of purl-stitch runners around cables. Continue with this needle selection for the rest of the needle bed, including on the right-hand side. Your needles should be positioned as shown below. The first row is needles in position B; the second row is just slightly below position B. Note: on the very right-hand side edge of the needlebed, you will have 5 needles: 4 for a cable and one for the seam. On the left-hand side, you will have only four needles (we will not make a cable in the very left block of 4 needles).

b) Using a one-pring needle transfer tool, move the stitches from the needles we just slightly pushed forward onto the needles at the beginning of each 4-needle block (see the schematic below).

c) After the stitches are transferred, push the freed needle to A position. After you complete the needle transfer for all needles, your needle selection should look like the picture below. The empty spaces will create separation from the cables and 4-stitch stockinet blocks, acting at the same time like mock purl stitches. The contrasting backing will help with this effect.

– Knit two rows with yarn #2.

4. Making cables:

– Use two 2-prong transfer tools to switch two pairs of stitches to make a cable. Start with the first 4-needle block. It does not matter if you switch the stitches from left to right or from right to left. Just be consistent. After each swap of the stitches, move the needles to the E position (all the way out), which will be easier for your machine to handle.

– The second 4-needle block will be plan stockinet (not a cable), the third will be a cable, etc. So, you will have alternating 4-stitch stockinet runs with cable runs like those shown below in the photographs and in the schematics.

– After all cables are made, knit 6 rows with yarn #2 (“right” -side yarn), and then make cables again above those made in the previous section (starting with the first 4-needle block). Note: the first row right after the cables were knit will always be a bit tight. So, loosen the tension a bit (by 0.5-1), but then set the tension to the usual tension (after the first row).

– Knit repeating the cables every six rows until the desired length of the front panel is achieved. It is best (for a more pleasant visual appearance) to keep a 3:4 or 5:7 ratio between the width and the length of the blanket. So, when you make your swatch at the beginning of the project, calculate your final width and then figure out how many rows you’ll need to knit to achieve the desired length.

– After the desired length is achieved, move the needles that were in the A position into the working position B and knit two rows with yarn #2. Alternatively, if you prefer this second method better, prior to knitting the last two rows, make the stitches onto the needles that were in the A position all this time by pulling the walls of the neighboring stitches onto these needles.

5. Knitting a second mock-ribbing.

– Transfer every other stitch onto a neighboring needle and push the freed needle into A position. Do this for the whole width of the needlebed. You can use a one-prong tool or an adjustable 7-prong tool if making this blanket on a standard knitting machine (such a tool is not available for bulky machines unless it is custom-made).

– After this transfer, you will have only every other needle in B position. On every other needle, knit 12 rows with yarn #2 and 10 rows with yarn #1.

6. Folding the second mock ribbing.

– Remove all weights and a cast-on comb.

– Grab with 1-prong the stitch on the first row when we just started knitting on every other needle (the second mock-ribbing) and transfer it onto the needles in A position, while also bringing them into the B positions. It will create the fold.

– Attach the weights back on (I do it by hooking the cast-on comb onto the knitted panel and then attaching the weights to it; in this case, the weight is evenly distributed).

7. Knitting the backing.

-The yarn #1 should still be threaded through the sinker plate. So, continue to simple stockinet using yarn #1. Remember that the first row after we transferred all every-other-needle stitches might feel a bit tighter because now we have ALL needles in B position. So, you might want to loosen the tension by 1-2 for the first row. But then move it to the regular tension. In my case, yarn #1 was thicker than yarn #2, so I had to adjust the tension accordingly.

– Continue knitting stockinet until a desired length (AKA number of rows) is achieved. Don’t forget to rehang weights periodically.

8. Linking the panels together.

– Go to the mock-ribbing fold we made at the very beginning and remove the contrasting waste yarn (just one row we knitted at the end of the waste-yarn rows). Remove the waste yarn section.

– Find the last row of that mock ribbing that we knitted using yarn #1 and attach those stitches onto the needle bed onto every other needle. Take your time, and a nice seam will form. Continue for the rest of the bed.

– After all sitches are hooked onto the bed, attach a cast on comb (to push the folded fabric out of the carriage way) to the panel and weights and knit one row with yarn #1. Remove the cast-on comb.

9. Cast-off

– Use your favorite cast-off method to finish the panel and take it off the needles. The formed edge (seam) might seem a bit too thick if the blanket is made on the bulky knitting machine. So, as an option, link this edge/seam to the mock-ribbing fold to make it less obvious and to hide the linked seam of the fold.

10. Final steps.

– Link the sides together using a mattress stitch

– Knit two cords on the cord machine or on your own knitting machine (see here how to do it); insert them into the mock-ribbing folds.

– Wash and block the blanket

Brother KH230 is a bulky-gauge (9 mm between the needles) knitting machine with 110 needles. It has only manual/basic stitch manipulation capabilities. Read about the pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of this post is dedicated to a specific machine serviced, cleaned, and tested in my shop.

I did the usual maintenance on this machine: removed, inspected, and cleaned all needles (some were rusty and I either replaced them or cleaned and polished them), replaced the sponge bar, and cleaned the machine inside and outside.

I also tested the machine on all needles to ensure that all needles form correct stitches and that the carriage moves freely across the needlebed. I tested several yarns on this machine (see the video): thick wool/acrylic blend (just a swatch with a blue yarn), 100% acrylic yarn (for hand knitting from KnitPicks, and acrylic/wool blend). The machine handled all yarns beautifully. I made a pink blanket on this machine while testing it. I did not experience any static but used the tension mast with a wax already attached to it.

The machine will come with all major accessories and most minor ones. A lot of accessories were missing, so I replaced them with new ones, new or old stock (some claw weights are new, needle selection tools/rules are new/old stock). The knit leader scales are new stock as well.

The case and the lid had several new plastic rivets missing, so I replaced them too (in case you notice them to be of a different color; not shown).

The toolbox is still very sturdy but is missing a lid. Other missing accessories are:

• tapestry needle (any needle, even plastic, will do the job).
• original two-sided hook; I included a plastic replacement (to be honest, I never even use those hooks; I prefer the latch hook).
• oil bottle is not included; I use Hoppe’s gun oil from Amazon to lubricate the machine during kntiting.
• unravel cord is also not included, but any silky and smooth yarn will do

The carriage is in good shape. There are very minor discoloration spots, but they are smooth to the touch, and I treated them with a special corrosion-stopping and preventing solution. During the tests, I did not experience any static (which sometimes happens due to the corrosion on the parts and carriage).

Now, about imperfections of this machine:

• A hard copy of the manual is not included but pdf copy can be found online.
• The carraige lock is original but has some discoloration.

• You might notice that some of the needles are discolored. Those were polished and are smooth to touch. The discoloration is only cosmetic. All tets were performed with these needles.

• The case has some very minor bumps and scuffs (only most major and most noticeable ones are shown below)

• The lid has some as well (only most major ones shown below)

• The row counter has some minor scratches but works just fine.

• the cast-on combs have some minor dents but also work just fine. All tests on this machine were made with these cast-on combs. Cast-on combs for KH230 are very rare: they are shorter than the combs for the KH260 but longer that those for standard-gauge machines.

• The toolbox comes without a lid. I covered it with plastic wrap for transport.

• The tension mast is not original but rather a standard Brother tension mast (old stock). It fits almost all knitting machines, including electronic, including those that can knit with a Garter carriage (note the white holder-like addition on the mast – it is for the garter carriage sensor. It will not get in the way of knitting on this KH230). I am also going to leave the way sitting there. I used this mast setup during all tests.

• the needle bed under the connecting screw on the left-hand side is indented. It still did not affect the functioning of the machine but keep that in mind and check and tighten that bolt often.

Despite all these imperfections, the machine is in overall great shape, and I had a lot of fun knitting on it. Keep in mind that it seems that there are a lot of imperfections, but I am just listing them all because I am thorough and because I want my customers to know in advance about these imperfections and how they affect the functioning of the machine. In fact, none of these mentioned above affected the knitting on this machine (with and without the ribber).

Hello, and I bet you are extremely frustrated after you discovered that the new-to-you knitting machine does not select needles properly.

I bet you watched numerous videos and thoroughly cleaned the punchcard reading mechanism, but nothing works…

I’ve been there … I disassembled my machines and discovered that this problem is pretty complex. And the service manual does not really explain well how to solve it. On top of that, most manuals available for free online are of poor quality and sometimes it is hard to see clearly enough all these small (and extremely important) details.

Below is one of the solutions to why your punch-card knitting machine does not select needles correctly.

This article applies to standard-gauge punchcard Brother knitting machines with model numbers KH820-KH894. (For bulky models, like Brother KH260, the alignment of the plastic cylinder with the clutch wheel is a bit different.)

I will not go into details on how to disassemble to the state shown in the pictures below: there are enough resources. Just one piece of advice : take detailed pictures of each step of disassembly or even record a video.

First of all, if you had to replace or remove your timing belt, make sure that the piece of the belt where the ends get together needs to be aligned with the little divot of the pulley (the manual calls it a concave part).

If you still need help, consider purchasing a lesson from my Etsy store. We’ll figure it out together!

KnitKing KH881 knitting machine is a standard-gauge knitting machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart. It is identical to Brother KH881. It contains a built-in knit leader. Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The remainder of this article will be dedicated to a specific KnitKing KH881 knitting machine, serviced in my shop in July 2024.

This machine was cleaned; the card reader mechanism was thoroughly inspected and cleaned as well. The sponge in the retaining bar was replaced. All needles were taken out, cleaned, and inspected. Faulty needles were replaced with new ones (from a new stock). The knit leader was also deep-cleaned and inspected.

The machine came to me without the carriage and all other major accessories. I collected the major accessories from new and old stock to ensure a complete set. Thus, the knit-leader scales, sheet guides, mylar sheet, extension rails, tension mast, sinker plate, tool storage box and cast-on combs are all included.

The lace carriage, however, is NOT included with this machine. The absence of lace carriage is reflected in the price of the machine. Lace carriages can be purchased either as a new- and/or old-stock online for $70-100.

The machine was tested by knitting on a full bed to ensure that the patterning is flawless on the whole needle bed and that all needles form the correct stitches. Watch the video of these tests. I demonstrated in another video how a faulty needle was identified and replaced. after it was replaced, all stitches formed very nicely. The patterning on the full bed was done using tuck-, slip- (part) and fair-isle stitches. All patterns were knitted beautifully.

The carriage moved very smoothly and I did not experience any static with the two different yarns I used: very silky etamin yarn, 100% acrylic yarn of fingering weight and a textures yarn with some fuzz and occasional boucle features. The machine handled all these yarns wonderfully. Below are the items I made from the fabrics I knitted while testing this machine. They are going to the local charity.

The knitleader was not tested with the mylar sheet but all buttons and levers of the knitleader move and the wheels rotate (thus, the paper will advance) as the carriage moves across the needlebed triggering the knitleader advancement mechanism.

Because the machine did not come with this particular carriage, the color of the carriage is lighter than that of the plastic on the rest of the machine: it is yellowish from the sunlight damage.

The long cast-on comb is in excellent shape but is from my personal stash. The color is a bit off-white since it is from another machine.

The majority of the minor accessories are also included, including a hard copy of the manual.

The toolbox sits on the needle bed when the machine is not in use.

All minor accessories fit inside a toolbox with a lid. The table clamps and the craw weights are from the new-stock and are still clean and shiny.

A couple of minor accessories that are missing and not going to be included are:

• tapestry needle,
• punchcard rod (during my tests I knitted without using this rod and the punchcard reader worked well and the cards advanced without problems)
• wax – the wax that came with the machine was so old, it stumbled.
• oil – it was brown and old so I disposed of it. For your knitting machine needs, use Hoppe’s gun oil available on Amazon.

The only knitleader accessory that is not included is a felt pen. I read on forums that Crayola markers work well. Check out my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia on recommendations for the felt pen substitute.

Now about imperfections:

• The color large cast-on comb is a bit off because it did not come with the machine and is from my personal stash
• No lace carriage is included, which is reflected in the price.
• the case and the case lid have some minor bends and scratches (too many to list here)
• Some of the punchcards that came with the machine are a bit torn/bent but they still work really well (I’ve seen cards in worth conditions and they still worked well)
• 
• The small cast-on comb has a slight bent. It does not affect its functioning (latching onto the stitches). See the video demonstrating that the teeth latch onto the stitches very nicely without any problems. In the video, some of the teeth are slightly bent. I already unbent them (which was very easy). But keep in mind that these teeth bend easily but it is also very straightforward to push them back into their correct position.

Happy knitting with this wonderful machine!

… still a work in progress

Pros:

(+) More needles than any of the hobbyist’s Silver Reed/Studio and/or Brother electronic knitting machines.

(+) Double bed: no need to putz around with aligning robbers to the main needlebed.

(+) Numerous built-in patterns.

(+) Knit great double bed jacquard, lace, etc.

Cons:

(-) Bulky: big in size; bigger footprint than other knitting machines

(-) More expensive than other electronic knitting machines. The exclusion would be bulky electronic Brother KH270, Silver Reed SK890, fine-gauge Silver Reedk SK830, mid-gauge Silver Reed SK860, and standard-gauge Brother KH970. Those machines are either on the same price range or just a bit more expensive depending on the geographic area and demand in your market.