Singer MemoMatic 700 is a standard-gauge knitting machine with 200 needles, 4.5 apart. It has a punchcard reader (on the machine body) and patterning drums (on the carriage) which allows the machine to automatically select needles and knit patterns, like tuck, slip/part, fair-isle, weaving, lace, etc. Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of the post below is dedicated to a specific Singer MemoMaic 700 machine serviced and tested in my shop.
The case (including the end caps and the lid) is in great shape with minium scaffs and scratches. The plastic panels are in great shape too, with minimum discoloration due to the exposure to UV.
I cleaned the surface of the machine and the inside of it as well. I serviced and cleaned the punchcard mechanism and fine-tuned it to ensure flawless patterning. I opened the carriage and cleaned it thoroughly too, to ensure the drums and all other internal mechanisms move freely. The rubber wheels on the sinker plate were too fragile, so I replaced them with the old stock.
Installed new end racks (new stock).
I replaced the sponge strip in the retaining bar. I cleaned and inspected all needles to ensure they are not bent, latches move freely, and form correct stitches. Then I knitted on the full bed (i.e., on all needles) using tuck, skip/part, and two-color fair-isle to ensure that all needles indeed form correct stitches. I used several different kinds of yarns (you will even see in the video that the machine handled a couple of minor knits pretty well). I was very pleased by these tests, as the machine indeed handled well all the various yarns and all stitches formed correctly. The video of these tests is here.
The machine comes with all original accessories for the knit leader.
Knit leader was not tested in action but I checked all buttons, levers and knobs: they all move freely.
It comes with almost all the machine’s accessories.
The accessories fit nicely into a built-in box.
The standard accessories that are missing are: two cast-on threads (only one is included) and the oil (Hoppe’s Gun oil from Amazon is an excellent substitute).
The carriage lock is now shown in the list of accessories but the original metal carriage lock is included.
Note: The machine did not come with the original punch cards. I am including a generic set of 15 punch cards. Also, hard copies of the manuals are missing as well. But they are available online for free: pattern book, knitting manual, and operation manual.
The machine is lucky enough to come with its own cardboard box as well (with a lid).
Now, about Imperfections:
– Because I applied cleaning oils during cleaning, you might notice that some of the oil might bleed out of the carriage (especially when moved back and forth several times), leaving some black-ish residue on the main bed. Just wipe it with a towel and continue knitting. This is not unusual as the oil becomes thinner as the carriage becomes warmer as it moves back and forth.
– when the lid sits on top of the main bed, there is a small lip. It is pretty typical for these old machines and does not affect the works of the machine. However, precuations will be needed when the machine is in storage: put it in a plastic bag when stored for a long time.
– The carriage handle has some minor scratches.
– The case also has some minor scratches and dents. But it is overall in very good shape.
I typically include pictures of an item I made while testing this machine. I indeed made a small blanket and a gift bag, but due to the time contains, they are not quite finished yet.
I think the new owner of this machine will be very pleased with it because it not only looks good, but it works fantastically and has some advanced functions other punchcard machines don’t: like built-in intarsia.
A vast majority of knitting machines on the current used market are from Brother and Silver Reed (also released under the Singer, Studio, and Empisal Knitmaster, Riccar, Silver names) manufacturers. In turn, a lot of models from these makers are machines capable of patterning using punchcards.
This article gives a general comparison of the punch-card reading and patterning mechanism of Singer/Silver Reed/Studio/Empisal knitting machines versus those released to the markets by Brother Co.
The patterning mechanism of Brother punchcard knitting machines is activated when the carriage is locked into the timing belt. Silver Reed (and also some of the Toyota models, like Elna EK2300) machines have patterned drums on the carriage.
I find that knitting on machines with patterning drums is a bit quieter than when knitting on machines with a timing belt. However, it is somewhat easier to move the carriage when it is also guided by the timing belt.
Both types of machines have their own problems. For example, yarn often tangels on machines with patterning drums. While machines with timing belts have a lot of issues with timing belt misalignment.
However, I find it easier and more straightforward to set up a tension mast on the Silver Reed machines than on the Brother. Sometimes I feel that when I unfold the head of the tension mast on Brother machines, I bend it too much.
With the regards to the tension masts: there are two slots on Singer/Studio/Silver Reed/Empisal machines (and they are in the case handle – so in the middle of the needlebed) to insert the tension mast. On Brother machines, there is one in the middle
I like that on Brother machines, the needles move forward according to the punch card. So, it is somewhat easier to see if the machine mispatterns. On Silver Reed/Studio/Singer machines, all needles (selected and not selected according to the punchcard) remain in one position (B). Thus, sometimes it is hard to see if the pattern is transferred to the needles correctly.
Patterning of the Singer/Siler Reed/Studio/Empisal knitting machines occurs when the drums pass the patterning center. Brother patterning occurs when the timing belt is latched onto the carriage (by activating the KC button). Thus, it is very important to follow the instructions on how to start knitting andpatterning using the punchcards for both models.
Clearing of the patterning in Silver Reed machines occurs when the lever passes the “clearing center “, while on Brother, the patterning selection changes when the carriage turns.
After working with it, I feel that standard-gauge Singer/Studio/Silver Reed takes yarns thinner and smoother than the same gauge Brother machines. It seems that Brother machines can handle yarns not just thicker but with a wider variety of textures. But it might be just my experience. Working with various yarns is always an interplay between tension, use experience, how tight the yarn is in the cake/cone, static (which depends not only on your yarn but on the condition of the bed and your environment, which also changes seasonally), etc.
*KH800 and KH801 models have a slightly different punchcard mechanism and thus are not considered in this comparison **KH811 also has pushbuttons in the patterning center. Punchcard reading and needle selection work like in all other Brother punchcard machines.
Brother KH892e is a blueish-color combo (anniversary edition) of the standard-gauge knitting machine Brother KH892. Read more about the pros and cons and features of KH892 in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia.
This blog post is dedicated strictly to the Brther KH892e I serviced and tested in my shop in March 2025.
I removed the old sponge, cleaned the metal section of the retaining bar, and removed, cleaned, and inspected all needles. I was checking each needle for good latches, for being straight, and for having no rust.
I cleaned, serviced and inspected the punchcard reader mechanism, timing belt, and the drums guiding the timing belt to ensure absolutely reliable needle selection and patterning. The carriage was opened and deep cleaned as well.
After the machine was thoroughly serviced and cleaned, I first tested on all number of needles to ensure all carriage functions run well. I knitted stockinet first and then fair isle (see the video).
Then, I tested the machine on all needles to ensure that all needles formed correct stitches and that the needle selection worked across the full needle bed. All tests passed with flying colors (see the video).
The machine came with some accessories missing but I was able to source most of them out. So I included new-stock claw weights, table clamps, transfer tools, replacement needles, punchcards, and card snaps. I only used them during my tests.
The tension mast also did not come with the machine so I am including a brand new (new stock) mast. It is a bit hard to insert (and then to remove) it into the place for the tension mast but I kinda like it because sometimes when the tension mast sits too loose, it is too wobbly and messes up with my knitting (or yarn tension).
The cast on comb did come with the machine. It is a new design where the two sections, a longer and a shorter one, attach to each other. Well, the slide out each other easily. But I was still able to use it without problems. (All my tests in the video were made with that cast-on comb). I actually find of like it because in the past, some of the cast on combs attach to each other so hard that it actually hurts to pull them apart.
The original lace carriage will come with the machine. I cleaned the carriage and tested all the knobs but I did not test it in action. It is a simple enough carriage where I do not anticipate any problems.
The hard copy of the manual will NOT be included. But a free online version can be found here.
The punncard set (20 cards total, like in the manual) also did not come with the machine, so I included a set I purchased from new stock. Card #1 was used quite extensively during my tests, so it is a bit bent (which still did not affect its functionality). But all other cards are in great shape. Some match the cards in the manual and some don’t.
Cast-on lace is not included, but any strong, thin (and preferably silky) yarn will work the same. A tapestry needle is not included: any needle of your choice with a wide eye will work as fine. The oil will also not be included. I use Hoppe’s gun oil I purchase on Amazon for everyday lubricating and when I clean needles.
The original metal carriage also did not come with the machine. I am including a 3D printed plastic one.
The punchcard holder pin is also not included but all the tests I ran in the video were done without it so it is actually not such a critical component.
I replaced broken plastic rivets with new ones (new stock); therefore, some of them look whiter than others (not shown).
The little cap for the punchcard reader lever was cracked, and I replaced it with a new 3D printed one (on the right-hand side in the picture below).
Some of the imperfections:
– since I oiled the machine really well and used greaseless lubricants to clean the old gunk/first, the first tests might cause he machine to “sweat”( meaning the excessive oil might come to the service when heated due to the carriage being moved back and forth). Just have a piece of cloth by your side to wipe it away. It is shown in the video of my tests.
– The tension mast sits very tightly in its socket on the needlebed. Thus, some pressure/strength needs to be applied when inserting and pulling the tension mast out.
– Some of the teeth on the cast on the comb are a bit rusted. I chose to leave them be instead of risking them being bent. This is NOT a critical con at all.
– There is a tiny crack on the lever on the sinker plate. I see it pretty often in punchcard machines. It is not critical and does not affect knitting.
The spring that holds the lace carriage in the lid is acting up. I do not have a replacement spring, but this is a very non-critical component. I am posting it here so you are aware that it is not behaving when the lace carriage is removed from the case and put back together.
– The case and the lid have minor scratches and bumps. The most serious ones are shown in the photographs below.
Despite these minor flaws, this machine is beautiful and works beautifully.
I made the gift bag below from the fabric I knitted while testing this machine. Hoping the new owner will enjoy it too!
This tutorial describes step by step how to make a double-layered blanket on a knitting machine without a ribber. The cables are separated by mock purl stitches to make them stand out.
The demo below was made on a bulky knitting machine (Brother KH230), but it can be applicable to any knitting machine of any gauge (standard, mid-, and fine-gauges): push-button machines like Brother KH551 and KH588, punchcard machines like Brother KH840 and Studio mod. 360, Silver Reed SK280 and even electronic knitting machines without using their electronic functions, just to name a few.
The video of the steps can be found here. My two yarns were different (the fuchsia yarn was thicker, and the pink yarn was thinner), so I had to knit a couple of swatches to figure out how many rows to knit to have the same length measurements. If you are a bit off, blocking will solve it (like ironing in sewing). By knitting swatches, you’ll also determine what is the best tension to run the yarn of your choice at.
1. Knitting the mock-ribbing.
– Bring every-other needle to position B across the whole needlebed or as desired. Cast-on using a cast-on comb with waste yarn. Knit several rows with the waste yarn. The last row (before starting knitting with main yarns) should be with either an unravel cord or any other easy-to-remove yarn.
– Reset the row counter to zero. Knit ten (or as many as desired) rows using yarn #1 (the backing yarn: in my case, the fuchsia colored yarn).
– Remove yarn #1 from the sinker plate (you can cut it or secure it behind the bed, out of the way) and thread a second yarn (from the side, yarn #2).
– Apply weights when needed on the edges to keep them neat and on the cast-on comb as well (which is especially needed for bulkier yarns).
– Knit 12 rows with yarn #2 (I knitted two more rows because my yarn #2 was thinner and also because I wanted the folded mock-ribbing to overhang a bit on the wrong side and not on the right side). I didn’t want any fuchsia color to show on the “right” side of the fold.
2. Folding the mock ribbing to create a rim for the cord (which we’ll add later).
– Remove side weights and remove the cast-on comb.
– Using a single-tip needle transfer tool, grab a yarn of the very first stitch on the first row knitted with yarn #2 and move it to the needle that is currently in position A. After the stitch is latched onto the needle, push this needle to the B position. Continue throughout the whole width of the knitted panel. At the end, you will have all needles in the B positions.
3. Preparing the front panel to knit cables.
– Hang the cast on comb on just-bolded mock-ribbing fold and add a weight onto it (to push the folded fabric a bit down so it does not get in the way of the carriage; without the weights, the folded fabric might jam the carriage).
– Loosen the tension a bit by 1-2 digits on the carriage dial (because now we have ALL needles in B position) and knit two rows with yarn #2 (the right-side yarn).
– Set the tension back to the optimum tension for yarn #2, and knit two more rows.
– Preparing for the mock-purl runners:
a) Starting with the needles in the center (closest to position “zero”), gently nudge the two needles on each side of it slightly forward. Perform this after every four needles. The stitches on the needles we slightly pushed forward will be transferred to the neighboring needles (and the freed needles will be pushed to A position). This empty space will create separation in the fabric, which will mimic the effect of purl-stitch runners around cables. Continue with this needle selection for the rest of the needle bed, including on the right-hand side. Your needles should be positioned as shown below. The first row is needles in position B; the second row is just slightly below position B. Note: on the very right-hand side edge of the needlebed, you will have 5 needles: 4 for a cable and one for the seam. On the left-hand side, you will have only four needles (we will not make a cable in the very left block of 4 needles).
b) Using a one-pring needle transfer tool, move the stitches from the needles we just slightly pushed forward onto the needles at the beginning of each 4-needle block (see the schematic below).
c) After the stitches are transferred, push the freed needle to A position. After you complete the needle transfer for all needles, your needle selection should look like the picture below. The empty spaces will create separation from the cables and 4-stitch stockinet blocks, acting at the same time like mock purl stitches. The contrasting backing will help with this effect.
– Knit two rows with yarn #2.
4. Making cables:
– Use two 2-prong transfer tools to switch two pairs of stitches to make a cable. Start with the first 4-needle block. It does not matter if you switch the stitches from left to right or from right to left. Just be consistent. After each swap of the stitches, move the needles to the E position (all the way out), which will be easier for your machine to handle.
– The second 4-needle block will be plan stockinet (not a cable), the third will be a cable, etc. So, you will have alternating 4-stitch stockinet runs with cable runs like those shown below in the photographs and in the schematics.
– After all cables are made, knit 6 rows with yarn #2 (“right” -side yarn), and then make cables again above those made in the previous section (starting with the first 4-needle block). Note: the first row right after the cables were knit will always be a bit tight. So, loosen the tension a bit (by 0.5-1), but then set the tension to the usual tension (after the first row).
– Knit repeating the cables every six rows until the desired length of the front panel is achieved. It is best (for a more pleasant visual appearance) to keep a 3:4 or 5:7 ratio between the width and the length of the blanket. So, when you make your swatch at the beginning of the project, calculate your final width and then figure out how many rows you’ll need to knit to achieve the desired length.
– After the desired length is achieved, move the needles that were in the A position into the working position B and knit two rows with yarn #2. Alternatively, if you prefer this second method better, prior to knitting the last two rows, make the stitches onto the needles that were in the A position all this time by pulling the walls of the neighboring stitches onto these needles.
5. Knitting a second mock-ribbing.
– Transfer every other stitch onto a neighboring needle and push the freed needle into A position. Do this for the whole width of the needlebed. You can use a one-prong tool or an adjustable 7-prong tool if making this blanket on a standard knitting machine (such a tool is not available for bulky machines unless it is custom-made).
– After this transfer, you will have only every other needle in B position. On every other needle, knit 12 rows with yarn #2 and 10 rows with yarn #1.
6. Folding the second mock ribbing.
– Remove all weights and a cast-on comb.
– Grab with 1-prong the stitch on the first row when we just started knitting on every other needle (the second mock-ribbing) and transfer it onto the needles in A position, while also bringing them into the B positions. It will create the fold.
– Attach the weights back on (I do it by hooking the cast-on comb onto the knitted panel and then attaching the weights to it; in this case, the weight is evenly distributed).
7. Knitting the backing.
-The yarn #1 should still be threaded through the sinker plate. So, continue to simple stockinet using yarn #1. Remember that the first row after we transferred all every-other-needle stitches might feel a bit tighter because now we have ALL needles in B position. So, you might want to loosen the tension by 1-2 for the first row. But then move it to the regular tension. In my case, yarn #1 was thicker than yarn #2, so I had to adjust the tension accordingly.
– Continue knitting stockinet until a desired length (AKA number of rows) is achieved. Don’t forget to rehang weights periodically.
8. Linking the panels together.
– Go to the mock-ribbing fold we made at the very beginning and remove the contrasting waste yarn (just one row we knitted at the end of the waste-yarn rows). Remove the waste yarn section.
– Find the last row of that mock ribbing that we knitted using yarn #1 and attach those stitches onto the needle bed onto every other needle. Take your time, and a nice seam will form. Continue for the rest of the bed.
– After all sitches are hooked onto the bed, attach a cast on comb (to push the folded fabric out of the carriage way) to the panel and weights and knit one row with yarn #1. Remove the cast-on comb.
9. Cast-off
– Use your favorite cast-off method to finish the panel and take it off the needles. The formed edge (seam) might seem a bit too thick if the blanket is made on the bulky knitting machine. So, as an option, link this edge/seam to the mock-ribbing fold to make it less obvious and to hide the linked seam of the fold.
10. Final steps.
– Link the sides together using a mattress stitch
– Knit two cords on the cord machine or on your own knitting machine (see here how to do it); insert them into the mock-ribbing folds.
Brother KH230 is a bulky-gauge (9 mm between the needles) knitting machine with 110 needles. It has only manual/basic stitch manipulation capabilities. Read about the pros and cons of this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of this post is dedicated to a specific machine serviced, cleaned, and tested in my shop.
I did the usual maintenance on this machine: removed, inspected, and cleaned all needles (some were rusty and I either replaced them or cleaned and polished them), replaced the sponge bar, and cleaned the machine inside and outside.
I also tested the machine on all needles to ensure that all needles form correct stitches and that the carriage moves freely across the needlebed. I tested several yarns on this machine (see the video): thick wool/acrylic blend (just a swatch with a blue yarn), 100% acrylic yarn (for hand knitting from KnitPicks, and acrylic/wool blend). The machine handled all yarns beautifully. I made a pink blanket on this machine while testing it. I did not experience any static but used the tension mast with a wax already attached to it.
The machine will come with all major accessories and most minor ones. A lot of accessories were missing, so I replaced them with new ones, new or old stock (some claw weights are new, needle selection tools/rules are new/old stock). The knit leader scales are new stock as well.
The case and the lid had several new plastic rivets missing, so I replaced them too (in case you notice them to be of a different color; not shown).
The toolbox is still very sturdy but is missing a lid. Other missing accessories are:
tapestry needle (any needle, even plastic, will do the job).
original two-sided hook; I included a plastic replacement (to be honest, I never even use those hooks; I prefer the latch hook).
oil bottle is not included; I use Hoppe’s gun oil from Amazon to lubricate the machine during kntiting.
unravel cord is also not included, but any silky and smooth yarn will do
The carriage is in good shape. There are very minor discoloration spots, but they are smooth to the touch, and I treated them with a special corrosion-stopping and preventing solution. During the tests, I did not experience any static (which sometimes happens due to the corrosion on the parts and carriage).
Now, about imperfections of this machine:
A hard copy of the manual is not included but pdf copy can be found online.
The carraige lock is original but has some discoloration.
You might notice that some of the needles are discolored. Those were polished and are smooth to touch. The discoloration is only cosmetic. All tets were performed with these needles.
The case has some very minor bumps and scuffs (only most major and most noticeable ones are shown below)
The lid has some as well (only most major ones shown below)
The row counter has some minor scratches but works just fine.
the cast-on combs have some minor dents but also work just fine. All tests on this machine were made with these cast-on combs. Cast-on combs for KH230 are very rare: they are shorter than the combs for the KH260 but longer that those for standard-gauge machines.
The toolbox comes without a lid. I covered it with plastic wrap for transport.
The tension mast is not original but rather a standard Brother tension mast (old stock). It fits almost all knitting machines, including electronic, including those that can knit with a Garter carriage (note the white holder-like addition on the mast – it is for the garter carriage sensor. It will not get in the way of knitting on this KH230). I am also going to leave the way sitting there. I used this mast setup during all tests.
the needle bed under the connecting screw on the left-hand side is indented. It still did not affect the functioning of the machine but keep that in mind and check and tighten that bolt often.
Despite all these imperfections, the machine is in overall great shape, and I had a lot of fun knitting on it. Keep in mind that it seems that there are a lot of imperfections, but I am just listing them all because I am thorough and because I want my customers to know in advance about these imperfections and how they affect the functioning of the machine. In fact, none of these mentioned above affected the knitting on this machine (with and without the ribber).
Brother KR230 ribbing attachment works with only one knitting machine: 9 mm -gauge (bulky) Brother KH230.
This post is dedicated to the KR230 ribber I refurbished in my shop.
To learn about the overall pros and cons of Brother KR230 ribbers, refer to my other blog post in my Knitting machine Encyclopedia.
The ribber came without a lot of accessories but I was able to collect most important ones.
Thus, all major accessories will be included with the ribber with the exception of:
yard tension stand: since the machine I tested did not have the original (to the KH230) tension rod but a generic Brother tension rod, the yarn tension stand was unnecessary. But if you are buying JUST the ribber from me, and your Brother KH230 has the original tension mast, contact me, and I might be able to source the original yarn tension stand for you. I am actually not quite sure why the ribber came with this special yarn tension stand – maybe to create a right angle for the tension mast because it is quite unique and is unlike any other Brother knitting machine tension masts.
cast on thread: any silky and strong yarn will work
case for the needles
Knit leader setting plates: the machine did not come with those. Typically, new knitters new to machine knitting rarely use the knit leader and as a result, these parts get misplaced. If you advance enough to use KH230/KR230 setup with knit leader, these setting plates are available online for a reasonable cost.
hard copy of the ribber will not be included, but it can be found online. Keep in mind that the manual is written pretty poorly with typos.
I cleaned the needle bed, and side brackets. I cleaned and inspected all needles individually. Needles in good condition but with some minor rust were polished until they are smooth to touch (however, some discoloration might still be visible but it does not affect the needle functioning). I inspected the carriage and the connecting arm thoroughly too and replaced some broken plastic parts in it.
I included a brand new retaining bar with a brand new sponge.
I am also including new table clamps for the ribber (not shown). All tests were done with these table clamps (incorrect table clamps can create an incorrect angle between the main and the ribber beds and cause misalignment and, as a result, missed/dropped stitches).
The cast on combs that came with the ribber are in great shape.
I also sourced out completely new setting plates for KR230. Notice that the setting plates are asymmetric, unlike settings plates for all other ribbers.
One feature that I like about the KR230 ribber is that there are markings on the needle bed for the working position (position B) of the needles.
I serviced and oiled the connecting arm to ensure that the wheel inside it moved freely as it is responsible for the indicator arros as well as for lifting the pressers to assist with pushing the stitches down.
To ensure all needles knit properly as well as other are no hidden problems, I knitted on 20-30 needles as well as on all neeldees using several different yarns: acrylic sport-weight yarn, double-thread worsted-thickness acrylic-wool blend yarn, and a mohair-blend with Lurex thread in it. The machine handled all the yarns like a champ!
These tests are shown in my video. Prior to the tests, I made sure the distance between the needlebeds was adjusted to the optimum to ensure no missing stitches during the cast one and further one.
Below are the finished projects made from the panels knitted on Brother KH230/KR230 setup using the two out of three yarns I mentioned above.
Let me know what you think.
The ribber does not come with its original packaging. It will very likely be shipped in two different packages – long one for the needle bed and a smaller one (in size) for all other parts.
takes a variety of yarns (thickness- and texture-wise)
comes with all major accessories
CONS:
some minor accessories are missing (see above); however, their absence does not affect the functioning of the ribber.
The part of the side bracket that gets inserted into the machine on the left-hand side was a bit bent and I straightened it. (The top surface of that section has scratches as a result of my strainitening it). The series of pictures below shows that bracket and that area from different angles. Again, it did not affect setting up the machine but the bracket needs to be pushed in with a bit more force than the other one. Just something to keep in mind when connecting the ribber to the main bed.
As you can see, I invested a lot of both time and money into this ribber to ensure it has all accessories and that it functions well before I pass it on to other knitting machine enthusiasts.
This Brother KR830 ribber was prepared (cleaned, serviced, and tested) in January 2025. This post is dedicated to this specific ribber. Refer to my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia to learn the pros and cons of Brother KR830 ribbers.
The ribber did not come with a carriage. Thus, I used a carriage from my stash. However, the carriage is from Brother KR850 ribbing attachment (which is a bit more advanced – read here): you can see “lili” buttons on the carriage picture, which are specific to KR850 ribbers only.
However, as shown in my video, KR830 needle bed, KR830 sinker plate, and KR850 carriage worked well in tandem with my Brother KH940 knitting machine. In fact, the carriage slides easily even with the yarn fed through it (as also demonstrated in my video).
Despite being not for the KR830 machine, the carriage works great and is in great shape. All levers, knobs and buttons move on both sides of the carriage.
The ribber came without some other accessories. I put together a set of accessories. All major accessories will be included.
The original cardboard box will not be included. Regardless, the machine will be packed for shipping really well.
The table clamps are exactly those used during the tests. So the angle between the ribber bed and the main bed will be the same. The needle selection ruler is new stock as well.
The aluminum claw weights are new. The rack lever is new (thus, it is lighter in color than all other plastic components).
The hard copy of the manual for the Brother KR830 will be included as well.
I cleaned the ribber, thoroughly oiled it, and removed old grease. I inspected all needles (individually and then by knitting on the full bed) and replaced the bent and faulty ones with the needles from a new stock.
I dedicated a lot of time to adjusting the distance between the main bed and the ribber. It is one of the most important parameters during knitting.
Knitting on a machine attached to a ribber is often an interplay between the yarn the knitter is using, tension, and the angle between the ribber and the main bed. The distance was adjusted for the thin yarn (boucle) and slightly thicker than the sock-yarn-thickness yarn (see my video).
During the tests, while the tension was chosen too loose for my first yarn, I was losing stitches (shown in my video – see a clip starting at 2 min 30 s). But as I adjusted the tension, the knitting became flawless.
I knitted on the full bed to demonstrate that all needles form nice stitches. If the latches did not work well or if the needles were bent, it would manifest itself as tucked or missed stitches.
Typically, it is challenging to need a full ribbing on the full bed (All needles are in working positions). Thus, I chose an every-other needle ribbing pattern and knitted on two different sets of every other needle.
I would not recommend beginners to start knitting on the full bed since there are several challenges associated with it:
hard to insert the side hanging weights when all (or almost all) needles are in their working positions (you can see of bit of this struggle in the video);
the knitter needs to pay especially more attention to the carriage position on the edges of the needle bed and to the yarn tension to avoid side floaters (I experienced them – see my video)
Pattern one (see video) had three needles NOT selected on the ribbing attachment. It used slightly thicker yarn. Pattern two had two needles not selected on the left-hand side of the ribber bed. I used thinner but boucle yarn. Both yarns produced wonderful fabrics. I made two great hats out of the knitted panels.
Imperfections:
1. The main bed has two minor rust spots underneath that I covered with the rust-stopping liquid. It is not pretty but at least it prevents further corrosion.
2. The cast-on combs, both small and long, had rust spots that I also covered with Rustoleum. I know it does not look pretty after i applied to liquid but it stops further corrosion. I did not have problems with the yarn catching on the rust spots. These are mostly cosmetic defects.
One cast-on comb side has more spots than the other (on both combs).
The yarn holder looks a bit rusted too but is relatively smooth to touch:
The plastic fine knitting bar is packed inside the ribber itself:
BTW, the hats were donated to a woman, who hand-embroiders the textiles ( as a hobby) and then donated to the women who lost hair due to the alopecia.
Overall, I am very pleased with the performance of this ribbing attachment. Hoping you will be too!
Hello, and I bet you are extremely frustrated after you discovered that the new-to-you knitting machine does not select needles properly.
I bet you watched numerous videos and thoroughly cleaned the punchcard reading mechanism, but nothing works…
I’ve been there … I disassembled my machines and discovered that this problem is pretty complex. And the service manual does not really explain well how to solve it. On top of that, most manuals available for free online are of poor quality and sometimes it is hard to see clearly enough all these small (and extremely important) details.
Below is one of the solutions to why your punch-card knitting machine does not select needles correctly.
This article applies to standard-gauge punchcard Brother knitting machines with model numbers KH820-KH894. (For bulky models, like Brother KH260, the alignment of the plastic cylinder with the clutch wheel is a bit different.)
I will not go into details on how to disassemble to the state shown in the pictures below: there are enough resources. Just one piece of advice : take detailed pictures of each step of disassembly or even record a video.
First of all, if you had to replace or remove your timing belt, make sure that the piece of the belt where the ends get together needs to be aligned with the little divot of the pulley (the manual calls it a concave part).
If you still need help, consider purchasing a lesson from my Etsy store. We’ll figure it out together!
Brother KR260 ribbing attachment fits bulky knitting machines Brother KH260 and Brother KH270. Read more about this ribbing attachment in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia (…coming soon).
The article below is focused on the ribber I tested in August 2024 in my shop.
The ribber bed was thoroughly cleaned, the side brackets were cleaned and oiled, and all needles were removed and inspected individually (and then tested by knitting on the full bed).
The distance between the main bed and the ribber was easy to adjust. I almost instantly got the optimum distance and was able to knit a swatch right away. See the pictures of the first cast-on row: all distances are even and there are no missed stitches.
I left the side brackets in the machine so the next owner will not have to make too many adjustments. I knitted the swatch to several rows and made a narrow scarf out of it (see pictures below).
The retaining bar is new with the new sponge. (Typically I reuse the retaining bar (the metal part of the needle pusher) and attach a new sponge strip to it. For this ribber, I used a brand-new metal retaining bar with a brand-new sponge strip.
The machine comes with all minor and major accessories. One exception is a spare needle case: it was so old, that it crumbled as I opened it. The spare needles are inside a regular plastic bag.
Some accessories (1/2 and 2/2 needle pushers) are brand new from new stock.
The 1×1 needle pusher is also a handy tool but it is included with te main bed (Knitting machine).
All other accessories came with the machine but they are still in great shape.
Watch the tests on full bed in my video. I knitted 1×1 ribbing on every other needle on the bed and on the ribber. Thus, to check all ribber needles, I knitted two combinations of those needles to ensure I knitted in all needles. All stitches formed nicely! Thus, all needles, their latches, and the retaining/sponge bar functioned well.
The connecting arm is in great shape. All brushes are intact.
The ribber carriage is also in great shape and all buttons and levers move freely.
I will include the yarns I used to test this machine with the purchase so the next owner will start familiarizing themselves with this machine with the proven threads. These turns turned out to be pretty staticky. On the small swatch (narrow scarf, olive green color), the static was so strong that I could even feel it on my legs as I was knitting the long panel. On the large piece (olive green hat) the status was even stronger but the machine handled it very well: no grinding noise and no problems with tension. I did not use wax with the olive green yarn.
An original cardboard box for the ribber will NOT be included. I will, however, put the ribber into a cardboard box and wrap the accessories in bubble wrap.
Ribber cast-on combs are in great condition. If the wire does not go inside the holes, just rotate it a bit and it will slide in.
Brother KH260 is a bulky (9 mm gauge) knitting machine with 114 needles. Read about this model, as well as the pros and cons, in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. All information below is about a specific machine service in my shop in August 2024.
I cleaned and inspected the machine. I removed, cleaned, and inspected all needles. The needles and the patterning (including the punch card reader) were inspected with various cards. All of these features were also tested on all needles and with various cards. Watch the video of these tests here. This machine was also tested with a matching ribber, Brother KR260. watch the video of those tests here. The machine behaved very well during all those tests by itself and without the ribber. It was easy to adjust the proper distance between the machine and the ribber, which implies no warping of the metal beds.
The rubber wheels on the sinker plate are in great condition. The wheels for tuck-knitting move freely.
The machine will come with all major accessories: sinker plate, cast-on combs (short and long ones, attached together by the metal clip), tension mast (not shown in the picture above – forgot to include it, sorry) and a detachable row counter.
I also replaced the retaining bar: I inserted a completely new retaining bar + sponge bar (typically, I attach a new sponge to the existing retaining bar).
The machine will come with most minor accessories, including a hard copy of the manual (which is in decent condition).
The only accessories that are included are the cast-on thread (you can use any strong, silky yarn/thread) and a punchcard holder pin (all the tests in the video were done without that pin and all worked great).
Table clamps, stitch-measure scales, punchcards, and claw weights are brand new, from the new stock.
All minor accessories fit inside the toolbox.
The carriage lock is not the original (the machine did not come with one). I attached the machine with the carriage lock from the ribber (because I left the setting plates in after testing the ribber). But I am including a white plastic replacement carriage lock in case the machine is sold in the future without the ribber.
Since the machine came without the punch cards, I had to purchase them. The punchcard set included is marked with the letter P (as it is supposed to be for the KH260 models) but it is not an original set. It is brand new but the paper/plastic is a bit thinner than the original set. However, I checked and the card corresponds to those in the manual.
The machine came with the wax and oil in decent condition. Thus, those will be included as well. The mast still contains a piece of wax I used when I tested the machine (some yarn was a bit more staticky than the other but only when tested with the ribber).
The machine originally came without the carriage. I have included a substitute carriage (which was fully serviced and tested) this is why the color is a bit different from the main bed.
When selecting needles, make sure that the needle buds are as close to the marked B position as possible otherwise the carriage might have trouble. It is true for all knitting machines but bulky machines are especially “sensitive” to misaligned needles probably because the needle buds are so much bigger.
A couple of other very individual things for this machine: if the numbers in the row counter do not get triggered reliably, two things can be done. 1. Gently shift the plastic cover on which the row counter sits towards you. Even a little bit of movement will shift the row counter enough to make it more reliable. I installed it properly but the top cover can shift during the shipping/transport a little bit, enough to increase the distance between the tripper on the carriage and the row counter lever. 2. Pass the carriage slowly next to the row counter. If the carriage is moved quickly, the row counter is still triggered but the number does not increase. I thought it was the problem with the row counter, but I tried several. The best thing that works is to slow down around the row counter. The slower motion triggers it better so the number changes.
Imperfections:
the end caps have minor cracks. Those are super minor – I’ve seen machines in much worse conditions.
the lid and the case have some staining from scotch tape. I will be washing them off with soap and water but not with strong solvents (as it might severely damage the coating). Sometimes some especially sticky residues remain.
The case and the lid have minor scratches. Below is an example of the biggest one. Other minor scratches are not shown.
