Thoughts on knits

Studio SK-303 knitting machine serviced and tested in my shop in July 2025

Studio SK303 is a metal flat-bed knitting machine with 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart, which makes it a standard-gauge knitting machine. Studio SK303 is capable of creating patterns with automatic needle selection governed by the turn-knob control center and buttons and levers on the carriage.

This post is dedicated to a specific machine serviced and tested in my shop in July 2025. To learn all the pros and cons of the Studio SK-303 model, refer to a post in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia.

The machine will come with almost all major and most minor accessories.

The toolbox (and its lid) is pretty sturdy (normally, those boxes become so fragile with time and exposure to elements that they just crumble apart).

The S-shaped table clamps are original. I am also including two brand new claw weights (which are not even part of the original setup) because they are very useful, especially for beginners, to put on the edges of the fabric or to assist with the cast-ons.

The missing minor accessories/tools are:

hard copy of the manual. You can refer to a manual available online for free.
card copy of the pattern cards. They can also be downloaded for free. The manual also has some basic patterns. The pattern shown in my video for a blanket is a variation of the pattern in the manual. I also include patterns that I printed out from that pdf file.
original metal carriage lock is not included but I am including a 3D printed plastic replacement

clips to hold the cards did not come with the machine, and since there are not cards, they are not really necessary.
the case for the spare needles was falling apart and thus will not be included
oil was too old and I discarded it. I use Hoppe’s gun oil available on Amazon.
the yarn tension guide will be included but it is not the original one: it does not look like two bunny ears but more like a triangle.

the cast-on wires also did not come with this machine but I will include two identical medium (in between the short one and long ones shown above) wires.

I did all standard maintenance on this Studio SK303 machine: cleaned the retaining bar from the old gunk, replaced the sponge strip in the retaining bar, inspected all needles, cleaned inside and oiled the machine as well as the turnknob and patterning mechanisms.

I tested several acrylic yarns with this machine (just small swatches and also on the full bed), from super smooth to a textured wool yarn to a relatively thick one. Smooth fibers are sometimes problematic because a lot of static might form. The machine handled the slightly thicker (than I normally use on standard-gauge machines), almost sport weight, very well, although there were some hiccups. Additionally, it handled a two-thread 2-color fair isle pretty well, too. Textured wool yarn was not ideal – I should have selected every other needle, but still knitted a decent-sized swatch. All the tests are shown in the video I put together. The machine behaved pretty well, especially with thinner yarns. I tested two-color fair isle, tuck- and slip-stitches and all stitches and knitted fabric looked great.

The full bed tests are necessary because very often faulty needles might not show up during just visual inspection. In fact, I did discover a needle with a bad latch – it formed tucked stitches (shown in the video as well). After I replaced it, no more bad stitches formed on the full needlebed.

Below is a picture of a pattern I accidentally discovered while testing this machine. It is a combination of needles in A position (to create a lacy opening) and a hold-tuck combo.

I converted this knitted panel to a blanket (the pattern is coming soon). I like the look of it so much that I knitted little booties, hat and mittens to make it a matching reversible set.

Now, about imperfections:

One of the metal slide-ins (where the row counter or the card holder are attached) is missing.

The row counter is similar to the original ones but branded as “Silver”, not “Studio”. There is an identical knitting machine model but branded as Silver SK303.

The row counter has some minor staining but it does not affect its functioning.

The turn-knobs have some minor discoloration but still feel solid (they will not crumble easily).

The case has some minor stains and scratches but nothing too major (not all are shown). The scratches do not affect the functioning of the case.

Singer 888 knitting machine serviced and tested in June 2025 in my shop.

Singer 888 knitting machine model has 200 needles, 4.5 mm apart, which makes it a standard-gauge knitting machine. It was released to the market in the mid-to-late 1960s. It has turn knobs, controlling needle selection and, thus, patterning when knitting. Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of the post below is dedicated to a specific Singer 888 knitting machine, serviced and tested in my shop.

Just a quick disclosure: I was nervous starting testing this machine with so many buttons and levers and moving parts, but as I started working with it fell in love with this machine. Patterning was so easy and kind of almost meditating. Check out the video of these tests.

The machine will come with almost all and most critical major (carriage, sinker plate, row counter, tension mast) and almost all minor accessories (table clamps, transfer tools, needle selection ruler, replacement needles). A lot of accessories were missing when I got the machine, but I was able to outsource most of them.

All levers, knob, dials, and buttons on the carriage move freely.

The hard copy of the manual will not be included. However, it can be found online (look on that site for the info on Knitmaster ES-302, Studio SK-302, and Silver SK-302 knitting machines as they are similar to Singer 888). Silver SK-301, Studio SK301, Silver 303, Silver 305 and Empisal Knitmaster mod. 305 are also similar turn-knob machines that will provide a lot of useful tips if instructions for the 302-series models.

The case to store tools is not included. The tools will be secured to ship even without the case. Oil was too old, and I tossed it away. For maintenance, get a Hopp’s gun oil on Amazon. The clips to hold the pattern cards also did not come with the machine. Tapestry needle and cast-on thread are not included. Any needle and any silky and strong thread will work.

The table clamps are original. The transfer tools were missing, but I am including a new set, which also comes with a new needle selection ruler. Only one, 100 stitches, cast-on wire will be included. It came with the machine but does not seem to be the original (the bead on the end is not oval; a wire is simply bent into a knot). As a courtesy, i am including a small cast-on comb to quickly cast on for swatches while learning the machine. I am not sure if using case-on wires is a popular cast-on method since I most often see e-wrap based cast ons. However, for quick swatches and quick tests, the cast-on comb-based is my favorite.

The pattern cards also did not come with this machine, but they are also available online.

The needle bed, all needles, the patterning center, and the inside of the machine were thoroughly inspected and cleaned. The carriage was thoroughly oiled to ensure all buttons, dials, and levers move freely.

The sinker plate and all its wheels are in great shape.

I knitted several swatches with different patterns to ensure that the carriage performs the needle selection and patterning well.

Then I knitted on the full bed to ensure that all needles form correct stitches. I knitted on all 200 needles, stockinette, tuck, and slip-stitch. The two-color fair isle was only done on a swatch.

I like making something from the knitted panels I knit while testing the machines. This time, I made a very light-weight but still warm baby blanket for a friend.

Now, about imperfections of this machine:

There is some staining on the case that I could not remove. I, however, do not use harsh chemicals because I fear damaging the original coating more than I dislike the stains.

The lid has some staining, too.

A couple of stains on the bed, which are black because I covered them with the protective coating.

The underside of the carriage has some discoloration and scratches on the metal. Discoloration looks a bit like rust (but is still smooth), so I covered it with a protective coating. None of these affected knitting: the carriage still glides smoothly, and no static is forming (although static accumulation can also depend on the yarn).

These minor flaws and imperfections do not affect the functioning of the machine at all.

It is a lovely, light-weight and straightforward machine to use. It is easier to pattern in my opinion than the pushbutton Brother machines since no additional steps (like turning the ratchet) are required.

Pros and Cons of turn-knob knitting machines

So far, I’ve been able to become very familiar with the Silver/Empisal Knitmaster/Studio/Singer turn-knob knitting machines: Empisal Knitmaster mod. 305, Knitmaster ES-302, Riccar RK-601, Silver SK-301, Silver SK-302, Silver SK-303, Silver SK-305, Singer 666, Singer 888, Studio SK-301, Studio SK-303. Thus, the pros and cons below are applicable to the following models:

PROS:

light weight
compact
needles similar to the ribber (easy to find)
The carriage is very easy to remove from the needlebed if it is jammed
manual and pattern cards are available online for free
sturdy end caps
excellent for those who like the satisfaction of manual stitch manipulations
excellent for beginners
it is significantly faster to perform needle selection than manually and than the Brother pushbutton knitting machines (which involves the lever movement every time the needles need to be brought forward)
no ratchet tool is required to move the needles forward (like in Brother push-button machines)
needle selection pattern versus turn knob combinations is show on the front panel: no need to constantly refer to the manual
ribbers were available to convert the machines into double-beds

CONS:

bunch of knobs, buttons and levers might at first seem confusing
vintage row counter if mispalced is hard to find
somewhat limited patterning capabilities: manual needle selection is needed for complex patterns and patterns with more than 8 needle repetitions
colored fair isle requires manual yarn manipulation (the knitter will need to lay the yarn onto the needles with open latches; might seem tedious on larger projects, but makes it easy to knit single motif patterns)
limited number of add-ons: only ribber (no knit leaders, no color changers, no lace carriages, etc).

If you are new to machine knitting on flatbed machines and you just got a machine, consider the beginner-friendly projects I recommend to all my students and customers. These projects can be done on any machine with any gauge. Also, if you are unsure how to choose a knitting machine, check out an article I put together.

…stay tuned for more insights as I test other turn-knob knitting machines.

Working, mechanism, pros and cons of drums-based knitting machines (sold under the Silver Reed, Singer, Studio, Empisal model names) with punch card capabilites.

… in progress. Last update: January 2026

Knitting machines with punchcard capabilities have carriages with drums that glide on the back rail and also assist in needle selection when they are passed over a punchcard reading mechanism pegs.

Well, since these patterning drums are such a prominent feature (which also makes these machines stand out from Brother punchcard knitting machines), a lot of cons and pros are associated with them.

PROS:

needle selection is localized to drums/carriages, thus fewer (theoretically) things can go wrong;
Drums assist the carriage in sliding on the needle bed

CONS:

Yarn and debris can’t tangle around these drums
These drums often freeze up when the machine is not in use for a prolonged time due to solidified old grease/oil.

Here are my other observations/feedback so far:

Pegs on the drums pass the needles to either B position or C position.

When the patterning dial is in the fair isle position, the mani yarn goes onto the needles in C position.

I see blog posts stating that some of the clanking noise might be due to the static in the yarn. To solve this issue, attach wax to the tension mast so the yarn passes through it.

But some knitters experience that noise even when there is no yarn in the carriage. Sometimes, if the carriage was not recently serviced or the sponge in the retaining bar is old, you might hear some clanking noise. I am discussing this issue (as well as how to address/minimize it) in my video.

When the ribber connecting arm is attached (from SRP50 ribber – maybe others, still researching), the carriage cam dial does not turn from L to Stockinet freely. You will need to disconnect the connecting arm, and the problem will be solved.

Brother: anniversary edition machines machines and accessories

I found a brochure in my stash showing which knitting machines and their accessories were released as anniversary editions (which means the machines had a slightly different color combination but the same functions as their non-anniversary sisters).

Brother KH-930E knitting machine and Brother KR-850E ribbing attachment:

Brother KH-950E knitting machine.

Brother KH-892E and KH-836E knitting machines

Brother KH-260E knitting machine and Brother KR-260E ribbing attachment

Garter carriages KH-93E and KG-89II

Knit leader KL-116E and Color changers KRC-900E and KHC-820AE

Although the color combination is not seen very well in this brochure, all anniversary editions have baby-blue color: buttons, electronic panel, logo, etc.

Studio mod. 324 knitting machine prepared for Lara

Studio mod. 324 knitting machine is a standard-gauge knitting machine with 200 needles. Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. This post is dedicated to a specific machine serviced and tested in my shop in May 2025.

The setup will include the machine with all major accessories and a stand-alone knit radar (model KR7).

The machine, the carriage, the card reader, and the knit radar were thoroughly cleaned. I opened the carriage and cleaned it of old gunk. The atterning drums move freely (see the test video) so do all levers, knobs and buttons on the carriage.

All needles were removed, cleaned, and inspected. All latches were checked on how they move (sticky latches form tucked or other incorrect stitches). All faulty needles were replaced.

I replaced the end racks as well. Some minor discoloration spots, which seemed like rust, were covered with a protective coating.

A new sponge was attached to the original metal retaining bar.

With regards to the minor accessories for the machine:

The machine came with almost all of them. Even the oil looks good, so it will be included (which I normally do not do and recommend getting Hopp’s gun oil off Amazon). The table clamps and the claw weights are new (new stock). The hard copy of the manual was missing, and I do not have one in my collection either. But it can be found online for free. This original manual does not list all accessories on one page. Thus, I borrowed the accessory diagram from the manual of another similar machine. But that machine has a slightly different set of accessories (I know – confusing).

So, the accessories that were supposed to be included but will not be are:

crochet hook (any will work, and honestly, with all the machine knitting work I do, latch hook and needle transfer tools are the most handy tools);
tapestry needle (any needle of your personal choice will work)
cast on cord (any silky and strong yarn will work)

The accessories that are on the diagram below but still not be included are:

rib frame components (they did not come with the machine)
3/1 and 1/3 needle pushers (they also might be for that older machine, and they did not come with this machine either)
needle retaining bar pusher (I honestly have never seen it be included with any of the setups I had experience with. I simply use flat-head screw driver the push the retaiing bar out of its slot.
the intended table clamps are not slanted (the old-fashioned ones) but flat. The diagram above shows slanted table clamps. But this diagram from an earlier model (it still reflects all accessories correctly, just not as accurately). The original manual shows flat table clamps.

The weaving and round brushes are original as well. The only briefly explains what the round brushes are for (and it is also buried inside a lot of other info). There is a diagram showing that these brushes are used for tuck and plating knitting/patterning. I did not test plating, but tuck-knitting was performed without these brushes and it knitted very well on several different yarns.

The toolbox to store accessories is in great shape. All accessories fit nicely into the box.

Apparently, the lid can be hooked onto the one of the sticking metal “screws” to use as a tool tray (refer to the manual).

The punchcard set looks like the original one. It includes the card with the description, which punchcards can be used for what kind of patterning, in case they don’t match what the manual mentions.

I am also including two custom punchcards (as a thank you for waiting for my patience customer! :))

I am also including two extra card clips (transparent ones) as I think the original white ones are kind of hard to clip.

The setup will include a stand-alone knit radar KR7. The hard copy of the manual will not be included but a pdf copy is available online.

As you can see in the video, the carriage moves super smoothly when the needles are in A and B positions (I was able to move it with just one hand). All levers, buttons, and drums move well too, which is extremely important for patterning and advanced knitting.

I tested the carriage by knitting swatches using different yarns (not all shown in the video) as well as on the full bed to ensure all needles form correct stitches. I like doing full-bed tests with card #1 because any mispatterning or faults will be noticed immediately (even the tiny random ones): the fabric will not be even.

In the video I show tests with tuck-, slip-, and fair isle stitches/patterns using Etamin yarn (for hand knitting). I also used slightly thicker yarn (sport weight) but it needed the loosest tension possible. These tests are shown at the end of the video. However, it is recommended to use sport-weight yarn on every other needle.

Knit radar:

It is in great shape and looks like it has barely been used. It will come in its original (although kind of beat up) packing cardboard box.

However, it did not come with a hard copy of the manual but a good quality online version can be found (for free) here. One plastic panel chipped on the side (not shown) – I glued it together. It is barely visible. It does not affect the functioning of the knit radar.

Stitch scale #4 is missing. If I find it, I will ship it later for free.

If I think of something else while I pack the machine, I will post it accordingly.

The original pattern paper is missing, but I am including a generous 5-sheet pack of graphed paper. It is wider but can be easily cut. It is the same quality (thickness and feel) as pattern paper for other knit leaders I have (but they are half size).

When I was looking for a replacement pattern paper, I did a lot of research. Even if I found the original paper, the overall opinion in the knitting machine groups is that the models of the closing on those patterns are outdated. So it feels like you will be better off using he graph paper for your own designs than having the original patterns, which would be useless.

Some imperfections include the missing accessories (described above), some minor scratches and dents on the case, and discoloration on the plastic parts (from exposure to sunlight). Some are shown below.

I enjoyed working with this machine and testing it. It has a lot of life in it – unlimited if well taken for! Happy Knitting!

Studio 360K serviced in my shop in May 2025 for Sabine.

Knitting machine Studio mod. 360 coupled with the Singer MemoMatic 360K carriage, was serviced and fully tested in my shop in May 2025. To read the pros and cons of the Studio mod. 360 and Singer MemoMatic 360K read the corresponding posts in the Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The post below is dedicated strictly to this specific machine and not the model overall.

This girl was manufactured in the 1980s (45 years ago) so it comes with its own character (read below in Imperfections).

The machine was thoroughly cleaned. I removed all plastic panels and cleaned them. I removed plastic end caps and clean inside the needlebed with the brush until not more lint and dust as coming out. The needlebed was vacuumed from inside and outside. All metal parts were oiled. The punchcard reading mechanism was tuned and cleaned with oil. Same for the carriage. All needles were removed and inspected and then tested on the full bed (knitted on all needles). I identified one faulty needle (the video shows the incorrectly formed stitches) and replaced it.

In fact, tests on full bed were performed using tuck-, slip- and fair-isle stitches. All stitches formed as they are supposed to. There was no mispatterning (see the full video). The video also shows that all buttons, levers and wheels move freely on the knit leader and the paper advances accordingly. Read the manual carefully when setting the knit-leader parameters as some of the knobs move at certain settings. The video also shows that the row counter work great as well.

I replaced bent plastic heel protectors (plastic circles around each wheel with soft brushes on the under side of the sinker plate – now shown). They bent kinda easily when the yarn is tangled around the wheels on the sinker plate.

Installed new end racks. I replaced the sponge in the retaining bar. The retaining bar sits a bit tight so if it needs to be removed, initially use pliers to get the bar the first tug.

The drums on the carriage move freely (see the video). The carriage with and without sinker plate moves freely on the carriage across the needles in A and B positions. Read below about some accompanying clanking noise.

The machine will come with all major accessories.

Those that are not included are:

unravel cord (any smooth and strong thread or yarn will work);
tapestry needle (any needle will work)
punchcard rod (all tests i performed and shown in the video were done without it and it worked well).
oil (I get oil for my knitting machines on Amazon: Hopp’s gun oil)
punchcard set has all 20 cards and they are original Singer/Studio punchcards but some are somewhat different than in the Pattern Book
A hard copy of the machine instruction manual will not be included but it can be downloaded online for free. The hard copies of the knitting manual and the pattern book are included.

Despite some discloration of the plastic and metal of the main bed, the case lid, and the needle bed are in overall good shape.

Imperfections:

There was some yellow discoloration, which could be potential rust spots. I covered them with a couple of protective coatings. The covered spots are not as noticeable in real life as shown in the pictures below. In fact, when I am looking at the machine right now, I can’t even see it (but I know it was there).

2. One of such spots is actually the railing itself (I needed to be 100% sure that there will be no further degradation due to rust). So I applied a thin layer of protective coating as well.

In some places, the coating comes of, which comes across as some minor debris. Just be aware of it (and not alarmed). Include cleaning the debris and carriage rail in your regular knitting machine cleaning routine.

3. It seems that either the plastic panels (including the end caps) were replaced by the previous owner, or the machine was exposed to the sunlight unevenly. Regardless, you can see that some panels show a different degree of yellowing (discoloration of the old plastic due to exposure to the UV light/rays). However, the plastic does not seem fragile (I’ve seen a LOT of weakened (due to UV) plastic parts). So the difference is only visual/aesthetic.

4. When I first started testing the machine by moving an empty carriage on the needlebed (with all needles in A, non-working, position), there was some clanking noise in some areas. I tried various carriages on this machine and they all sound like this. After troubleshooting this issue, I was able to improve it (watch this video on this issue) but due to the nature of this noise, it is not completely eliminated. This video discusses how to prevent/minimize that clanking noise. However, with regular maintenance and paying attention as well as moving the carriage in one smooth motion, this will not be an issue.

Despite all these imperfections, I enjoyed working with this machine. I made the gift bag below using various stitches shown in my test video (working on the pattern now).

Singer 700 mod. knitting machines serviced and tested in my shop in April 2025.

Singer MemoMatic 700 is a standard-gauge knitting machine with 200 needles, 4.5 apart. It has a punchcard reader (on the machine body) and patterning drums (on the carriage) which allows the machine to automatically select needles and knit patterns, like tuck, slip/part, fair-isle, weaving, lace, etc. Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of the post below is dedicated to a specific Singer MemoMaic 700 machine serviced and tested in my shop.

The case (including the end caps and the lid) is in great shape with minium scaffs and scratches. The plastic panels are in great shape too, with minimum discoloration due to the exposure to UV.

I cleaned the surface of the machine and the inside of it as well. I serviced and cleaned the punchcard mechanism and fine-tuned it to ensure flawless patterning. I opened the carriage and cleaned it thoroughly too, to ensure the drums and all other internal mechanisms move freely. The rubber wheels on the sinker plate were too fragile, so I replaced them with the old stock.

Installed new end racks (new stock).

I replaced the sponge strip in the retaining bar. I cleaned and inspected all needles to ensure they are not bent, latches move freely, and form correct stitches. Then I knitted on the full bed (i.e., on all needles) using tuck, skip/part, and two-color fair-isle to ensure that all needles indeed form correct stitches. I used several different kinds of yarns (you will even see in the video that the machine handled a couple of minor knits pretty well). I was very pleased by these tests, as the machine indeed handled well all the various yarns and all stitches formed correctly. The video of these tests is here.

The machine comes with all original accessories for the knit leader.

Knit leader was not tested in action but I checked all buttons, levers and knobs: they all move freely.

It comes with almost all the machine’s accessories.

The accessories fit nicely into a built-in box.

The standard accessories that are missing are: two cast-on threads (only one is included) and the oil (Hoppe’s Gun oil from Amazon is an excellent substitute).

The carriage lock is now shown in the list of accessories but the original metal carriage lock is included.

Note: The machine did not come with the original punch cards. I am including a generic set of 15 punch cards. Also, hard copies of the manuals are missing as well. But they are available online for free: pattern book, knitting manual, and operation manual.

The machine is lucky enough to come with its own cardboard box as well (with a lid).

Now, about Imperfections:

– Because I applied cleaning oils during cleaning, you might notice that some of the oil might bleed out of the carriage (especially when moved back and forth several times), leaving some black-ish residue on the main bed. Just wipe it with a towel and continue knitting. This is not unusual as the oil becomes thinner as the carriage becomes warmer as it moves back and forth.

– when the lid sits on top of the main bed, there is a small lip. It is pretty typical for these old machines and does not affect the works of the machine. However, precuations will be needed when the machine is in storage: put it in a plastic bag when stored for a long time.

– The carriage handle has some minor scratches.

– The case also has some minor scratches and dents. But it is overall in very good shape.

I typically include pictures of an item I made while testing this machine. I indeed made a small blanket and a gift bag, but due to the time contains, they are not quite finished yet.

I think the new owner of this machine will be very pleased with it because it not only looks good, but it works fantastically and has some advanced functions other punchcard machines don’t: like built-in intarsia.

Comparison, pros and cons of Brother and Studio/Silver Reed/Singer punch-card knitting machines

… still in progress. Last update: January 2026

A vast majority of knitting machines on the current used market are from Brother and Silver Reed (also released under the Singer, Studio, and Empisal Knitmaster, Riccar, Silver names) manufacturers. In turn, a lot of models from these makers are machines capable of patterning using punchcards.

This article gives a general comparison of the punch-card reading and patterning mechanism of Singer/Silver Reed/Studio/Empisal knitting machines versus those released to the markets by Brother Co.

The patterning mechanism of Brother punchcard knitting machines is activated when the carriage is locked into the timing belt. Silver Reed (and also some of the Toyota models, like Elna EK2300) machines have patterned drums on the carriage.

I find that knitting on machines with patterning drums is a bit quieter than when knitting on machines with a timing belt. However, it is somewhat easier to move the carriage when it is also guided by the timing belt.

Both types of machines have their own problems. For example, yarn often tangels on machines with patterning drums. While machines with timing belts have a lot of issues with timing belt misalignment.

However, I find it easier and more straightforward to set up a tension mast on the Silver Reed machines than on the Brother. Sometimes I feel that when I unfold the head of the tension mast on Brother machines, I bend it too much.

With the regards to the tension masts: there are two slots on Singer/Studio/Silver Reed/Empisal machines (and they are in the case handle – so in the middle of the needlebed) to insert the tension mast. On Brother machines, there is one in the middle

I like that on Brother machines, the needles move forward according to the punch card. So, it is somewhat easier to see if the machine mispatterns. On Silver Reed/Studio/Singer machines, all needles (selected and not selected according to the punchcard) remain in one position (B). Thus, sometimes it is hard to see if the pattern is transferred to the needles correctly.

Patterning of the Singer/Siler Reed/Studio/Empisal knitting machines occurs when the drums pass the patterning center. Brother patterning occurs when the timing belt is latched onto the carriage (by activating the KC button). Thus, it is very important to follow the instructions on how to start knitting andpatterning using the punchcards for both models.

Clearing of the patterning in Silver Reed machines occurs when the lever passes the “clearing center “, while on Brother, the patterning selection changes when the carriage turns.

After working with it, I feel that standard-gauge Singer/Studio/Silver Reed takes yarns thinner and smoother than the same gauge Brother machines. It seems that Brother machines can handle yarns not just thicker but with a wider variety of textures. But it might be just my experience. Working with various yarns is always an interplay between tension, use experience, how tight the yarn is in the cake/cone, static (which depends not only on your yarn but on the condition of the bed and your environment, which also changes seasonally), etc.

… to be continued.

A quick guide to which machines have punchcard patterning capabilities:

Brother/Defendi/KnitKing/Jones*	Empisal/Riccar/Silver/Silver Reed/Singer/Studio, etc.
STANDARD GAUGE
Brother: KH810, KH810, KH811, KH820, KH821, KH830, KH831, KH835, KH836, KH838, KH840, KH850, KH851, KH860, KH864, KH868, KH871, KH880, KH881, KH890, KH891, KH892, KH893, KH894 Defendi: KM2000, KM3000 KingKing: KK91, KK93, KK98, KH830, KH881, KH891,	Elna: EK2400 Empisal KnitMaster: MK70, 260K, SK313, 321, 322, 323, 324, 326, 328, 329, 360K, mod. 600, mod. 700, 700K Riccar: RK-701, RK-702, RK-703, RK-704K, RK-705K, RK-706K, RK-707, RK-708, LECLE Silver: SK250L, SK311, SK312, SK313, SK315, SK321, SK322, SK325, SK326, SK327, SK328, SK329, SK330, SK360 Silver Reed: 250L, SK280, SK282, SK360, SK640, SK700, SK700N Singer: MK70, 210, 312, 313, mod. 313, 321, 322, 323, mod. 323, 327, mod. 327, 328, 329, 360K, 700K, 700, 740 Studio: 280, by White mod. 280, SK312, SK313, 315, mod. 321, mod. 322, mod. 323, mod. 324, mod. 326, mod. 327, mod. 328, mod. 329, 350, 360K, mod. 600, mod. 700, by White SK740
BULKY GAUGE
Brother: KH260 KnitKing: KH260, PC bulky	Elna: EK2300 Empisal Knitmaster: 155 Silver Reed: SK155, SK155P Singer: mod. 155 Studio: mod. 155 Toyota: KS650
FINE GAUGE
	Empisal Knitmaster: F270, F370 Silver Reed: F270, F370, SK370, SK670 Studio: 270, 370

*KH800 and KH801 models have a slightly different punchcard mechanism and thus are not considered in this comparison
**KH811 also has pushbuttons in the patterning center. Punchcard reading and needle selection work like in all other Brother punchcard machines.

Brother KH892e serviced and tested in March 2025

Brother KH892e is a blueish-color combo (anniversary edition) of the standard-gauge knitting machine Brother KH892. Read more about the pros and cons and features of KH892 in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia.

This blog post is dedicated strictly to the Brther KH892e I serviced and tested in my shop in March 2025.

I removed the old sponge, cleaned the metal section of the retaining bar, and removed, cleaned, and inspected all needles. I was checking each needle for good latches, for being straight, and for having no rust.

I cleaned, serviced and inspected the punchcard reader mechanism, timing belt, and the drums guiding the timing belt to ensure absolutely reliable needle selection and patterning. The carriage was opened and deep cleaned as well.

After the machine was thoroughly serviced and cleaned, I first tested on all number of needles to ensure all carriage functions run well. I knitted stockinet first and then fair isle (see the video).

Then, I tested the machine on all needles to ensure that all needles formed correct stitches and that the needle selection worked across the full needle bed. All tests passed with flying colors (see the video).

The machine came with some accessories missing but I was able to source most of them out. So I included new-stock claw weights, table clamps, transfer tools, replacement needles, punchcards, and card snaps. I only used them during my tests.

The tension mast also did not come with the machine so I am including a brand new (new stock) mast. It is a bit hard to insert (and then to remove) it into the place for the tension mast but I kinda like it because sometimes when the tension mast sits too loose, it is too wobbly and messes up with my knitting (or yarn tension).

The cast on comb did come with the machine. It is a new design where the two sections, a longer and a shorter one, attach to each other. Well, the slide out each other easily. But I was still able to use it without problems. (All my tests in the video were made with that cast-on comb). I actually find of like it because in the past, some of the cast on combs attach to each other so hard that it actually hurts to pull them apart.

The original lace carriage will come with the machine. I cleaned the carriage and tested all the knobs but I did not test it in action. It is a simple enough carriage where I do not anticipate any problems.

The hard copy of the manual will NOT be included. But a free online version can be found here.

The punncard set (20 cards total, like in the manual) also did not come with the machine, so I included a set I purchased from new stock. Card #1 was used quite extensively during my tests, so it is a bit bent (which still did not affect its functionality). But all other cards are in great shape. Some match the cards in the manual and some don’t.

Cast-on lace is not included, but any strong, thin (and preferably silky) yarn will work the same. A tapestry needle is not included: any needle of your choice with a wide eye will work as fine. The oil will also not be included. I use Hoppe’s gun oil I purchase on Amazon for everyday lubricating and when I clean needles.

The original metal carriage also did not come with the machine. I am including a 3D printed plastic one.

The punchcard holder pin is also not included but all the tests I ran in the video were done without it so it is actually not such a critical component.

I replaced broken plastic rivets with new ones (new stock); therefore, some of them look whiter than others (not shown).

The little cap for the punchcard reader lever was cracked, and I replaced it with a new 3D printed one (on the right-hand side in the picture below).

Some of the imperfections:

– since I oiled the machine really well and used greaseless lubricants to clean the old gunk/first, the first tests might cause he machine to “sweat”( meaning the excessive oil might come to the service when heated due to the carriage being moved back and forth). Just have a piece of cloth by your side to wipe it away. It is shown in the video of my tests.

– The tension mast sits very tightly in its socket on the needlebed. Thus, some pressure/strength needs to be applied when inserting and pulling the tension mast out.

– Some of the teeth on the cast on the comb are a bit rusted. I chose to leave them be instead of risking them being bent. This is NOT a critical con at all.

– There is a tiny crack on the lever on the sinker plate. I see it pretty often in punchcard machines. It is not critical and does not affect knitting.

The spring that holds the lace carriage in the lid is acting up. I do not have a replacement spring, but this is a very non-critical component. I am posting it here so you are aware that it is not behaving when the lace carriage is removed from the case and put back together.