Category: Push-button

Brother Profile 585 (sometimes called KH585) is an 8-push button knitting machine manufactured by Brother Company in the early 1970-ies or late 1960-ies. It is one of the last machines (besides Profile 588) to have metal end caps, which makes this machine very durable, and easy to ship and handle. Its bed is narrower than later models (with numbers above 710).

In addition to eight push buttons that control which needles will be selected, Brother Profile 585 has a pattern center. It includes the push buttons, reset button, A/B and L/R knobs. Reset button (blue on the left-hand side) unpushes all buttons currently pushed in. A/B knob determines which needles will be brought forward: those selected (the knob in position A) or Not selected (the knob in position B). L/R knob determines how much to shift the needle selection. This shift is shown on the small dial on the left-hand side. It might sound confusing but once you start working according to got the instructions in the manual, it will be more clear.

Specifically about this machine:

The machine was cleaned. A new sponge bar is inserted. All needles are inspected and cleaned manually one by one. The machine was tested on all needles to knit stockinet, tuck-stitch, and part-knitting patterning. Details of this testing are shown in my video. All tests went great and all needles knit wonderfully. Push buttons are very easy to operate. Just in some cases, they need to be pressed very firmly but it happened just once. Typically, when it happens, I just reset all the pattern center knobs.

The machine came to me without any assesories so I made a set from my own supplies. So, all major assesories will be included and some extra.

Comes with all major assesories. The assesories did not come with this machine but I made a set of all major tools. The selection rulers are not identical to those mentioned in the manual but is a good start.

Minor assesories not included are:

• Unravel cord (any smooth thread will work)
• Wax (the one that came with the machine was crumbled but when I tested the machine with acrylic yarn I did not feel the need for waxing)
• The box for assesories (including its lid) is not included as it was missing from the original setup
• The needle selection rules are somewhat different than in the manual but I included couple of extra ones
• A hard copy of the manual is not included but can be found online (it is a generic one for 8-push button machines).
• Oil bottle (I threw it away – was too old) but a gun oil can be purchased on Amazon

  

The mast that came with the original machine was causing me problems. I replaced it with the working one from my stash. So, it fits a bit funky into the lid but is still manageable.

The assesories setup comes with only a long cast-on comb. To knit swatches, I recommend purchasing a small cast-on comb like this one or this one.

The rail guards need to be a bit lose when inserting the rails. Tighten them after the rails are inserted. Also, if using a ribber, they need to be removed. Keep them in a safe place because the replacements are hard to find.

The only imperfections with this machine were on the case itself (see the pictures below).

One minor rust spot on the lid (on the end cap). The case has usual very minor pumps and discolorations.

Some minor bumps and scruffs on the case:

Other than that I don’t have any other complaints or imperfections for this machine.

Below is what I knitted on this machine while testing it: a reversible cowl/neck warmer/hood.

I hope you, a reader of this blog, will be soon a proud owner of this machine!!

Brother Profile 552 knitting machine is an 8-push button knitting machine. It is probably the first 8-push button machine and it appeared on the market around 1964. The pattern center includes eight needle selection buttons, a reverse lever, a slide dial, and a set lever. 

This is my fifth 8-pushbutton knitting machine refurbished and prepared for other knitters and I am completely falling in love with these machines!!

The role of the set lever is to bring the needles forward: you push the corresponding buttons and then rotate the set lever with a special wrench and the needles move forward.

The role of the reverse lever is that: for example, you want to select needles 2 through 8. So, you simply push button #1, turn the reverse lever to B and rotate the set lever: all but needles in position 1 will be brought forward.

The role of the slide dial is to shift the needle selection. For example, a pattern requires the selection of needles 1 and 5, then 2 and 6, then 3 and 8. Instead of pushing and unpushing the corresponding buttons, you simply push buttons 1 and 5 and then simply move the slide dial to the corresponding number of places. If you move the dial only once, needles 2 and 6 will be selected even though buttons 1 and 5 are still pushed in. If you move the slide dial two places, then (even though the buttons 1 and 5 are pushed in) needles in positions 3 and 7 will be moved forward.

The additional patterning is accomplished by moving and holding the cam lever in positions I, II, or III and by pressing pattern selector buttons.

Now about this specific machine. I refurbished, cleaned, and serviced it. A completely new sponge bar was inserted. All needles are cleaned and inspected individually. They were also checked by knitting on a full bed to make sure they form the stitches properly.

It will come with all major assesories:

• The toolbox with a lid
• Latch hook, crochet hook
• Transfer tools
• Needle selection rulers
• Claw weights (greenish to match the color of the machine)
• Brush to clean the carriage and the needle bed
• Replacement needles
• Ratchet for the set lever
• Carriage lock
• Handle for the mani carriage
• Two cast-on combs – one long for the full bed and one shorter for swatches
• Table clamps
• I will even include
• Yarn mast
• Bottle with oil
• Wax (two small wax cylinders will be included – the reason why is below).

The hard copy of the manual will not be included but it can be found here. Additionally,

All these assesories are shown in the picture below.

The assesories fit nicely into a special toolbox.

And the toolbox then sits on the bed. So, you have all you need for your knitting set up in one place.

I always like to knit on a full bed when I test my machines. First, it gives me a chance to see if I overlooked any defective needles. Even when inspecting each needle individually, it is easy to miss a latch that is not moving as freely, a slight bend in the tip of the needle, etc. So, when I knit on a full bed, I see immediately if there are needles that repeatedly mispattern or create strange stitches. If defects on the fabric occur randomly – it is very likely not a defective needle since these defects might be due to the carriage snags, some small knots, or imperfections in the yarn (yarn splits sometimes, which might also result in uneven stitches randomly appearing on the knitted fabric).

The second reason to knit on a full bed, which is especially important for push-button machines, is to see if all needle pushers inside the machine are working as they are supposed to be. The patterning mechanism on push-button machines uses long strips. They look sort of like needle selection tools (some people call them combs or rulers). Each metal strip has “teeth”, shifted by one position on each strip. There are 4 strips for 4-button machines and 8 for 8-button machines. The position of the teeth is shited by one on every strip. There are, accordingly, 4 and 8 positions on the strips for 4- and 8-button machines. So, if these “teeth” are bent, or damaged, not all needles will be pushed forward. And this is what I am checking when I knit patterns on the full bed on push-button machines.

So, on this machine, I knitted slip-stitch and tuck-stitch on the full bed. The stockinet was very easy to knit. When I knitted the pattern, I noticed that the tension was getting tighter and tighter. It was due to the static accumulation. This was the first time I experienced such static accumulation (using the same yarns on other machines) but attaching a wax to the tension mast solved the problem.

Knitting a 1×1 tuck pattern on this machine uses all needles. In the first row of the pattern, all odd needles are selected and in the second row of the pattern, all even needles are selected. So, on a full bed when knitting this tuck-stitch we test the needle selection and how needles knit the tuck-sitch. All went well as shown in my video. After such a successful test, I then knitted a pouch for my husband’s paddle (the knitting process is shown in the video, and the end result is on the picture to your right).

This brings us to the imperfections of this particular Brother Profil 552 knitting machine:

Buttons need firm pushing. Sometimes I had to press the button twice or three times. The firmer you press, the fewer times you’ll need to repeat pressing. Also, all the levers need to be in their default positions when you start pressing the buttons. Once the buttons are pressed, they are firmly sitting in their positions and do not jump back. It took me some time to get used to firmly pressing the buttons. But once I got used to the right force needed to push the buttons and reset all levers before, all went smoothly. This is one of the reasons this machine needs a patient knitter. Watch my video to see how these buttons sometimes misbehave.

The second imperfection of this machine is slight discoloration of the metal surface as well as roughness. I only see this discoloration on the carriage. However, keeping in mind that this machine is over 55 years old, this should not be surprising. And I still think that this machine has a lot to offer for another 20-30 years, especially if serviced and maintained well. However, because of this, the static accumulation on this machine is a bit more than average. But this problem is solved by using wax and regular oiling. Thus, with this setup, I am including two wax cylinders. This is the second reason this machine needs a patient and caring knitter who will ensure all the setup steps are undertaken prior to the knitting and ensure this machine is well-kept and serviced timely. One tube of oil will be included. Another good oil to use is gun oil on Amazon.

The third imperfection is the levers on the carriage. The lever on the right-hand side slides not as smoothly as on the left-hand side. The metal bracket on the left-hand side was popped out when I got this machine. I fixed it and secured it (it will NOT pop out again) but the metal grooves are not as smooth). I am a petite woman with medium-strength hands and I still move the levers without too much force. At the end of my video, I show the movements of these two side levers.

Video of tests and demo of all imperfections is here.

A couple of cosmetic flaws are shown in the photos below.

Scratches inside the lid:

Minor dents on the outside of the lid.

Scuff mark on the right-hand side of the carriage.

The machine knits wonderfully despite imperfections. In fact, push-button machines handle some unusual yarns better than punch-card machines (not sure why but maybe due to the more fragile nature of the punch-card mechanism – if lint or dirt is stuck in it, it will not pattern properly…??). This is why I like these machines so much. They are working horses!! A combination of automatic stitches selection with hand manipulation of the needles will give a knitter a lot of possibilities!! Yes, punch cards and electronic machines are more versatile and people think they are easier. But think about it: to come up with a novel design for a punch-card machine, a knitter needs to carefully punch a card and then test it. But the design is limited to a 12-24 stitch-repeat pattern. Yes, on an electronic machine one can use repeat patterns with more stitches but then the software is needed, special cables and all those machines are still expensive to buy!!

The bottom line is: there are fewer things going wrong with the mechanically-patterning push button machines and this is why I love them and highly recommend them to a beginner machine knitter or to hand-knitters who still would like to maintain the satisfactory feeling of knitting by hand but with a bit of help from the machine in speed and forming more even stitches!!

I am currently testing KR580 ribber, which fits Brother Profile KH552 machine.

Brother KH588 and Genie 710 knitting machines are both standard gauge (4.5 mm) knitting machines manufactured in Japan. Both feature 200 needles and are capable of patterning using semi-automatic needle selection performed by 8-push buttons.

This website states that these machines are the same but my experience is somewhat different as I had a chance to work on both machines. Below is my assessment.

Brother KH588

The machine and all associated assesories are blue in color. The end-caps of the machine case and the lid are metal. The machine comes with lace carriage, cast on combs and extension rails. The handle on the carriage detaches (screws on) and when not in use, is stored separately in the lid on in the tool box.

The pattern center features 8-push buttons, set-lever (the one that moves the needles after the corresponding buttons are pushed), reverse lever (to determine whether the operator wants to bring forward the needles that are selected or those NOT selected), slide dial (the knob helping the knitter to shift the needle selection by 1-8 positions without pushing/unpushing or selectin/unselecting the needles) and MC change lever.

The shapes of the table clamps is typical for older models – with two wide screws, one of which is attached to the main bed.

Brother KH588 comes with laying-in thread feeders (two metal pieces laying next to the blue claw-weights in the picture to the left). They are used for weaving. They are inserted under the knobs between the knob and the sinker plate. See the images below.

Picture below shows part of the pattern center for the KH588: 8 push buttons , reverse lever and a slide dial.

The pictures of the MC change lever (shown below) features the N and MC positions also accompanies by the open and black triangles, which helps if you get a machine with Japanese writing for all main functions on the main bed and carriage.

The KH588 machine I worked on had all words written in Japanese (see the picture below). Next to it is a carriage from Brother KH588 released to English-speaking market. Unlike some other Brother machines, including some 8-push buttons ones, holding cam levers (marked on the bottom side of the carriage as I, II and III) are moving horizontally along the low side of the carriage. On many machines these cam levers are on the side. The carriage also has a change knob (on the top right-hand side of the carriage). This knob chooses normal, weaving or fair-isle knitting.

Brother KH588 can knit with KR586, KR587 and KR710 ribbers according to this chart.

Genie KH710

Genie KH710 is white/brown/orange in color scheme and some with all the same assesories (lace carriage, extension rails, cast-on combs). The laying-in feeders did not with the standard setup for Genie KH710. The table clamps for this machine are of newer design: they simply slide into the main bed slots and then screwed on to the table.

Genie 710 has 8-push buttons, reverse lever, slide dial and the MC lever.

Carriage for Genie 710 featuring a change knob, foldable handle, set levers moving horizontally along the length of the carriage.

Genie 710 is very similar to KH588 and I will not explain in this post the purpose of the main levers and buttons as I did for KH588. I also have a dedicated post to KH710 specifically.

So, the summary of the differences:

• Genie 710 did not come with the laying-in yarn feeders and KH588 did
• Genie 710 is white and brown/orange in color and KH588 is blue
• Handles for main and lace carriages screw on in KH588 and are permanently attached in Genie 710 but can be folded
• End-caps for the main bed case and for the lid are plastic in Genie 710 and are metal for KH588
• Table clamps are of different shapes: KH588 has clamps that screw on to the main bed and table clamps for the Genie 710 slide into the main bed to hold it to the table
• KH710 is a bit newer model than KH588 judging by its computability with ribbers and newer table clamp design.

If you discovered other differences I did not mention, please message me so we can update this information. I would also appreciate if you message me if you found this article useful.

Brother/Genie KH710 knitting machine is a 4.5 mm (standard) gauge machine with 200 needles. This chart states that it is the same as KH588 but my experience with both KH710 and KH588 is that those are slightly different (see my other post).

Brother KH710 is one of the latest models for the 8-push button knitting machines and has a lot of modifications not present in earlier models (like KH552-KH588). The case has more plastic (for example, end caps are plastic and not metal like in KH588 and earlier 8-push button models). The carriage covers as well as the handle are also not metal but plastic. The standard setup comes with a lace carriage and cast-on combs. The handle no longers screws on but is permanently attached to the carriage (good – fewer things to lose – I see so many machines arriving without these screw-on handles). But the handle folds for easier fitting into the case.

Besides 8-push buttons, genie 710 has a pattern center, which allows you to fix the needle selection and simply move the following needle selection relative to the initial position. It also allows (using the reverse lever) to select either needles push-in or select needles, not pished-in.

About this particular machine:

It was very easy to use it. The carriage slides very easily – in my video I show that I could use just one hand.

The machine comes with all major and minor assesories. 

The assesories fit nicely into a special toolbox with a matching lid.

The hard copy of the manual will not be included. The manual is available for download here. It mentions some of the patterns and button/lever variations. More patterns and variations of push buttons can be found here.

I inserted a brand-new retaining bar with a brand-new sponge. All needles were inspected individually. I tested this machine on a full bed using stockinet, pull-up, and tuck-stitch patterning (shown in my video). None of the needles were mispatterning and the knitted fabric looked even and great. 

After I gave it some TLC, the machine feels and looks like new. It is very lightweight (because end-caps are plastic.

The case has some cracks: see the pictures below but they do not affect the functioning of the machine.

Genie 710 is excellent for beginners or for advanced knitters who prefer hand-manipulations of stitches and needles. I hope you will consider adding this machine to your craft room.

This is a Brother KH588 knitting machine with an 8-push button needle selection mechanism. This model was released to the market in the late 1960s-early1970s. This model is equivalent to a rebranded Genie 710 (in case you need to search for information related to this machine). These are other 8-push button models similar to this one: KH581, KH560, and KH552, but their pattern control center is a bit less “sophisticated”. The pattern control center in KH588 makes your job of creating patterns and following the sequence of which buttons and levers to push the easiest.

The “patterning center” consists of:

• 8-push buttons. If a specific needle wants to be selected, the corresponding button is pushed. The red button cancels out the button selection.
• Slide dial (the blu knob on the white panel. It determines in what direction (left or right) the needle selection will be moved relative to the very first selection
• Slide indicator (to the left-hand side from the push buttons). It helps to determine in what direction the needle selection is moved and also what needles are currently being selected.
• Reverse lever (the bluish knob to the right-hand side of the pushbuttons, it is left to the slide dial). If the reverse lever is pushed to the right, then the needles that are not selected by the pushbuttons will be moved (AKA selected).

  In my video, recorded specifically for this machine, I demonstrate three patterning techniques and how I moved the levers, knobs and a ratchet. At first, it took me a while to figure out a chart but after just 5 minutes, I was able to develop a groove and knitted faster without problems. More sophisticated patterns (many of them can be found here) will probably need a bit more concentration. I also tested knitting cables on this machine. The hardest part of the cables is to keep track of which stitches on which needles to swap. But with the patterning center on this machine, these positions can be kind of memorized by the buttons pushed and it makes keeping track of stitch-swapping easier.

A couple of things I personally found interesting in this model. Check out the carriage image below, in particular, the levers on the bottom left and right sides of the carriage with markings I, II, and III. This feature was unusual to me since in other early versions of Brother knitting machines (manual 4- and 8-push buttons) these levers are on the actual sides of the carriage. I found this feature of KH588 very convenient. The positions of the levers are right in front of your eyes and it makes it less hard to overlook the position of these levers (which happens quite often ).

About this particular brother KH 588 machine.

In this particular machine, the words on the carriage (with the exception of huge BROTHER branding) are in Japanese. I asked the knitting community and apparently, not all KH588 are in Japanese. At the very end of this blog, I show pictures to be used as English references.  Maybe this machine was brought from Japan.

Below are the pictures of pattern examples I tested (also shown in my video on all 200 needles).

• The top is the tuck-patterning on every other needle (EON) selected. On this side, it almost looks like a seed stitch. On the other side, it looks like a ribbing, which I like a lot. I specifically did not say “right” and “wrong” sides because both of sides of this pattern can be right and wrong. This pattern is interesting on both sides.
• The bottom pattern is a “holding” pattern, in which we bring every 4^th needle to the holding position and do not knit on it and the yarn kind of hooks on these needles creating these bow-like knots. In hand-knitting, this is called a “butterfly” pattern.

• The top pattern in the swatch below is the tuck/slip pattern. It creates a very interesting texture and is actually very easy to make. It creates sort of like a ribbing but not as tight as a full eon-tuck shown in the bottom part of this photograph.

The knitted fabrics I created while testing this machine were converted to the two cowls shown below. They are going to be donated to a charity in my area.

The machine comes with all major assesories, including the extension rail, cast-on combs (tucked in the lid), and the lace carriage.

A couple of minor accessories  missing are:

1. Oil. It was too old and I tossed it. I recommend getting gun oil on Amazon.
2. Cast-on thread. I typically use a thin contrasting yarn for this purpose.
3. The toolbox has cracks: the plastic became old and brittle. The lid for the toolbox did not make it at all: died from old age

I included a 1×1 needle selection tool – it is not part of a standard setup but is very handy to use, especially for a quick 1×1 (or every-other-needle (EON) cast on).

The hard copy of the manual will NOT be provided but can be found in here.

Couple of other useful links:

• A service manual in case your machine starts misbehaving;
• A large variety of patterns that this machine can achieve.
• I also feel that this manual (although it is for a slightly older model) describes how the patterning center works really well as well

  Now, about the imperfections of this machine and setup.

The posts, where the handle attaches to the lace carriage, show some rust. The handle still attaches well and effortlessly.

There are some minor rust spots on the sinker plate (on the underside, on one side only

The case has some pumps but nothing major. The toolbox has some cracks – the plastic is too old and brittle. It is also missing a lid (or it never had a lid – not sure since the manual says nothing about the lid).

None of these imperfections affected the working functions of this machine.

The machine came with several damaged needles and I had to replace them. Since nobody manufactures new needles for these machines, I had to use refurbished needles from a machine I stripped for parts. I tested the needles I inserted into this machine to make sure they knit well without problems. Here is the video of the exact needles I placed into this machine.

Below are the images of another KH588 but with all English writing (kindly provided by other push-button knitting machine enthusiasts from https://www.facebook.com/groups/PushButtonPatterningKnittingMachines) to be used as a reference when operating this particular KH588. I included the hard copies of these pictures with the setup for Holly.

MESSAGE ME AT FACEBOOK/COMFIKNITS IF YOU DONT SEE A PAYPAL PURCHASE BUTTON.

THIS MACHINE IS ALREADY SOLD….CHECK MY OTHER POSTINGS AS THE NEW MACHINES ARE COMING 1-2 TIMES A MONTH

A little bit about this model: Brother KH581 is an 8-push button machine. It first appeared on the market in 1969. This particular model was probably made specifically for Japan as the carriage has Japanese markings only (although this is the first and only KH581 I’ve seen so far in real life). It is similar to other eight push buttons Brother machines sold under models KH 588, KH561, KH560, KH585, although I have not tested those yet and there might be some minor differences. This model comes in pretty blue color and even some the assesories have blue tints. I find this color very attractive and unusual.

The standard setup comes with a lace carriage and rails. I think that is the first model to have both of these in its standard setup.

A big advancement of this model over its 4-push button knitting machines (like KH551) is the presence of a whole “pattern center”. It consists of familiar push buttons and a lever with a wrench but also of a slide indicator and a reverse knob. The manual is very clear about what they are but it still took me some time of playing with them to get what it does. Once I figured it out, it was almost like an EUREKA moment to me! I, once again, just was amazed how smart Japanese engineers are.

So, in regular 4-push buttons machines, we need to select the buttons (and then unpush them) every time we need to select certain needles. In 8-push button machines, we select the needles once and then the reverse knob and we simply tell the patterning center by how much the needle selection needs to be shifted. Once I got a hang of it, I was blown away by how simple it became to memorize your needle selection. In fact, you don’t memorize – you simply shift it. Also, excellent pattern charts in the manual explain it really well. Just don’t be discouraged by a learning curve and experiment with the swatch. You will see in my video that while knitting the butterfly pattern (referred to in the manual as “holding” pattern, I selected the buttons only once at the beginning. The rest of the needle selection was done by only turning the reverse and slide knobs. I also feel that this helps to reduce wear and tear on the buttons: the spring indeed will loose their strength from constant pushing and unpushing.

The manual shows how to work the most basic patterns. Additional patterns can be found in here.

The machine setup is very easy and almost intuitive. I still recommend following the instructions.

Pros and cons of KH581 in comparison to other brother knitting machines.

Pros (in no particular order):

+ Much simpler needle selection process especially for complex patterns, where different needles need to be selected during each row.

+ Lighter than more modern machines. Thus, it would be ideal for those with weaker upper bodies.

+ Relatively compact: needle bed is narrower than its younger counterparts.

+ Excellent for hand-knitters who want to transition to machine knitting. Often hand knitters are seeking for more even stitches or for less wear on their hand and finger joints when knitting every stitch manually, yet they don’t want to give up the pleasure and satisfaction of manipulating stitches. I had several customers who bought push -button machines from me for this exact reason.

+ Excellent for beginners, crocheters and knitters, as it is not overwhelming as electronic and punch card machines might seem at first.

+ Since the machine is mostly mechanical, not many things can go wrong. Just keep this machine free of dust (which can be achieved with regular vacuuming and sponge bar replacement) and free of moisture.

+ Pretty blue color which makes this machine stand out.

+ All tools are interchangible with other 4.5 mm gauge machines and can be easily purchased new or used.

+ Carriage is very easy to move. I was able to do it with just one hand (but it also depends on a correct combination of yarn and tension).

+ Matching ribbers are available and can still be found on the used market. In fact, I am testing a matching ribber (Brother KR580) right now.

Cons (in no particular order):

• I was not a big fan of the tension mast being stuck inside the tool holder…
• Replacement needles can only be found on a used market. Nobody makes them anymore. I have plenty or replacement available in my shop.
• Fair isle knitting might not be as easy as on punch-card and electronic knitting machines.
• Hand-manipulations of stitches and keeping track of which buttons to push and which levers to turn might be overwhelming for some knitters.

About this machine in particular:

It knitted very well and handled sport yarn, acrylic and wool, at different tensions really well. I did not feel that the machine was sensitive to yarn tension, which was pleasant and allowed me to relax while knitting.

I inspected every needle on this machine to make sure the bed has only good and well-functioning needles. I also inspected the stitches they make (this is why I run all my knitting demos on a full bed). I replaced a sponge bar and cleaned the machine.

Tests on a full bed confirmed that everything works great. I tested stockinet, slip-stitch, tuck-stitch and tuck with hold patterning. Check out my video to see this machine in action on a full bed. Below are pictures showing the swatches with patterns I tested.

I did not test the lace carriage but I thoroughly cleaned it and ensured that all buttons, knobs and levers moved freely.

All major assesories are included with this particular machine except for:

• A hard copy of a manual. A scanned pdf copy can be downloaded for free here or here (this particular manual is the exact copy of the hard copy I used to learn this machine).
• The lid to the storage box – it arrived to me just shuttered. It probably weakened due to its age and got cracked during transport.
• Parafin (or wax) is not included. The original one was too crumbled to include it. When I tested this machine on three different yarns, including 100% wool and 100% acrylic, I did not feel I needed it. There are two groups of knitters with regard to using wax: those who swear by it and those who care less. You decide which one you are for yourself
• A bottle with oil is also not included. The one that came with this machine was too dark to use it. I recommend Gun oil. A lot of knitters use it and I use it to clean and oil all my machines.
• Cast-on thread is also not included but any smooth yarn of the correct thickness can be used instead.

None of these missing assesories affect the functioning of the machine.

This machine was probably meant for the Japanese market. Thus, the wording on the carriage is in Japanese. But you will very quickly learn that the two button on the left-hand side are for tuck and the two buttons on the right-hand side are for “slip” patterns. The position of these buttons is standard across all Japanese knitting machines.

I also felt that the buttons on this machine needed an extra strong push to remain in their pushed position ( I had to do it with my thumb, which is stronger, than an index finger). Just keep that in mind while playing with buttons.

I always convert the fabrics I create while testing the machines into cowls/neck warmers, which I then donate to local charities. Here is what I got while testing this machine:

Overall, I was pretty impressed with this model and this machine. I so wanted to play and experiment with how many different patterns I can come up with I hope you will enjoy experimenting with it too.