Category: Knitting Machine

This post is in progress as I am editing it while cleaning the machine.

Replaed two main plastic consoles since they were broken. Took these parts from identical (but for parts) Studio 360K. Cleaned very thoroughly inside the mechanism (but I did not disassle it since there was no rust and overall everything looks in good shape and everything moed freey).

This machine was a rare find since the patterning drums did not shut stuck and moved freely. I suspect this machine was not used a lot since even during cleaning I did not see a lot of fold grime.

Replaced sponge bar, inspected all needs, polished and visually chcked. Also checked all needles in action (see my video on a full-bed knitting) to make sure the needles not just looked good but also functioned well.

Well, this caption is so strangely phrased because the very first Singer 321 came with a Spanish manual and with the knitting terms written on the machine in Spanish 😊 But both machines are in great shape and are workhorses no matter in what language their menu is.

I thoroughly cleaned this machine. I would like all my buyers to be aware that I only completely disassemble machines that are in very VERY rough shape or severely rusted.

Checked all needles, replaced sponge bar and tested how it knits tuck stitch, slip stitch, fair isle and stockinet. I did it on the whole bed to make sure all needles function properly. The machine is capable of patterning using the old-fashioned punch-card technology.

A little bit of history: Singer/Studio 321 machines were introduced in1972 and were the second earliest model capable of patterning with 24-stitch punch cards. It is a standard (4.5 mm) gauge machine with 200 needles. So, this machine is 50 years old!!

It is still beautiful and this particular model has barely any age-related discoloration.

The machine came with all accessories with couple of exceptions:

• Box to pack all the tools is missing. It did not come with this machine. I will pack all the tools in a sturdy bubble-enforced plastic bag. All other accessories are included.
• The carriage lock is unfortunately missing too. The lock secures the carriage on the metal bed during storage and transport. I will secure the carriage with zip ties to make sure it does not slide.

Pros and Cons of this particular machine:

Pros:

• Typically, these machines have rubber end rails to keep the carriage from sliding from the bed and mis-patterning as a result. These end rails are made from rubber, which degrades with time (years). But not in this machine: you don’t have to worry about them. This machine has metal end-rails, which will stay forever.

Cons:

• No built in leader. It is not a deal breaker for me – I calculate and keep track of all my patterns and forms myself.
• This model does not come with a lace carriage
• The carriage does not have a release lever – if the carriage gets stuck during knitting, you will have to do remove the sinker plate and then move the carriage.

The rest of pros and cons is typical for all other singer/studio knitting machines with punch card mechanism, namely:

General Pros and Cons for Singer/Studio machine with punch card patterning mechanism:

Pros

• The patterning drums make it very easy to move the machine. They engage with the punch card mechanism very nicely without much noise.
• The manual is very well-written and I was able to follow the instructions with ease and to learn all the techniques.
• Easy-to find replacement needles since these models are relatively “newer” ones. I get mine on Aliexpress.
• The tools are pretty standard and are pretty interchangible with other models. Aliexpress also sells them.
• I found that putting this machine to storage and opening and closing is much easier than multiple brother machines I had a chance to struggle with. There is a very clear schematic on the cover with the order of how placing the parts together. I found this extremely helpful as putting these machines away is often a big frustrating struggle.

The cons are:

• no timing belt, which might make the carriage movements somewhat hard depending on your tension and knitting pattern and technique. It was not a problem for me at all.
• The most significant flow in my mind is that the patterning drums often get stuck if not oiled regularly, especially when not used for a very long time or put into storage (I restored already two OTHER machines where the drums were simply shut… They needed soak in an oil bath and some heavy-duty disassembling). To avoid this problem, put some light oil regularly on the patterning drums. Lucky for me, this machine had the drums in excellent shape

Check out my freshly posted youtube video: https://youtu.be/te0sV0o78FI

This is what I knitted while I tested this machine: a two-in-one cowl/scarf and a head cover. I love multipurpose things.

This machine is a beauty despite some of its minor flaws (Like missing pieces). It has beautiful color combination and barely any discoloration of the plastic.

This wonderful machine was made in 1970^th and, I think, it was the first model to include a built-in knit leader. Like most standard gauge knitting machines, the Singer 326 has 200 needles spaced 4.5 mm apart. It has a built-in row counter, punch-card reading mechanism for automatic patterning using a punch-card reading mechanism. I gave this machine a thorough clean. The carriage was also deep-cleaned and serviced and all knobs and levers and functions were thoroughly tested. Drums on the carriage move freely.

It comes with all accessories including (numbers are going in the order as they are listed in the manual).

1) magic cams,

2) point cams,

3) separators,

4) box to store and transport all tools,

5) replacement knitting needles,

6) brush to clean the machine,

8) weaving arm,

9) container with oil

10) crochet hook

11) tapestry needle,

12) ravel cord for cast-on and to use as one-row intermediate level during waste-yarn knitting,

13) round brushes for tuck knitting (I already installed them on the sinking plate for you),

14) card snaps to clip the patterning cards together,

15) stitch scale (simply a set of rulers to help with knit-leader and stitch counting),

16) gauge scale to count stitches and your gauge on a swatch,

17) and 18) tension mast assembly,

19) weights to hang on the ends of your knitted piece,

20) set of stitch transfer tools,

21) tappet tool,

22) clamps to secure the machine to the table. On this particular machine with these particular clamps, it is somewhat hard to attach them to the bed– the bed needs to be at a certain angle. But with enough wiggle, they will fit in.

23) carriage lock to secure the carriage during transport and storage

24) card guide,

25) needle pusher and needle selector,

26) set of punchcards: the original set was supposed to include 20 cards but this machine came with only 19. Card #19 is missing,

27) a set of pattern paper with some patterns for knit-leader (also known as knit contour).

All accessories fit nicely in the box.

A couple of minor accessories are missing:

• Only two-point cams are included. These are used for single-motif fair isle knitting. By the time you are ready to knit a single motif, you will be an expert in knitting and will know where to find the second pair (if you need to knit two single motifs).
• Name paper: it was included with the originally new machine so the owners can write their names to mark the machine as belonging to them.
• Ravel cord: any silky or acrylic yarn will work

I tested the machine on single -and double-color slip-stitch, tuck-stitch and fair isle techniques. On

this machine, the ‘fair isle’ is marked as a ”knit-in on the carriage. Old terminology? Hm..

I knitted on a full bed to make sure all needles were not bent and without any other defects. I knitted a double-sided reversible cowl on this machine.

A disclaimer: I typically completely disassemble machines only if they show a significant amount of rust or damage. The old screws often don’t make it threw frequent screwing and unscrewing. And these screws are hard to find in regular hardware stores.

A couple of things to keep in mind about Singer/Studio machines in general. It seems that table clamps for Singer/Studio are slightly different than those from Brother machines. Singer clamps have a slightly longer top part. However, not all Singer/Studio machines have clamps with flat tops (some have large screw-top fasteners).

Some Singer/Studio machines have metallic end rails but this one had separate rubber ones. They typically tend to decompose due to time and fall off. So, initially, these rubber end-rails were still present but while I was using the machine they fell off since they already showed a lot of cracking and deterioration. These end rails are also not very critical pieces and the machine will work fine without them. They are important when knitting on all 200 needles. But even in this case, if you slow down the carriage on the last 10-20 needles and don’t let the carriage slide too far, you will be ok. These end rails are needed to prevent drums from mispatterning if the carriage is moved too far from the bed.

Some of the pictures above were taken prior to a complete cleanup – so the machine looks dusty on some. But it is much cleaner and happier now because it is a working horse and I hope you will adopt it for your knitting projects.

I did not extensively test the knit leaders because I do all my calculations myself. But all buttons turn freely.

The tuck brushes, according to the manual, need to be installed when knitting tuck-stitch patterns. In the video I created for this machine, I demonstrated that these brushes can stay on the sinker when knitting slip-stitch, stockinet, and fair-isle. Also, tuck-stitch can be knitted without these brushes (also shown in my video).

The sinker plate comes with already installed tuck-brushes and honestly, I do not recommend removing them as it is rather painful to put them back.

Overall, I was very pleased with this machine: it absolutely does not show its age and knits wonderfully! I hope you will be able to enjoy it soon too and knit a lot of wonderful garments! Talking about age: it might have some super minor scratches on the bed but everything else looks great.

And last, but not least, pros and cons:

Pros:

• The patterning drums make it very easy to move the machine. They engage with the punch card mechanism very nicely without much noise.
• The manual is very well-written and I was able to follow the instructions with ease and to learn all the techniques.
• Easy to find replacement needles since these models are relatively “newer” ones. I get mine on Aliexpress.
• The tools are pretty standard and are pretty interchangeable with other models. Aliexpress also sells them.
• Some might find having the built-in knit-leaders very handy: there is no need to have a separate long setup lying around – in this setup, all fit into one carrier box
• I found that putting this machine to storage and opening and closing is much easier than multiple brother machines I had a chance to struggle with. There is a very clear schematic on the cover with the order of how to place the parts together. I found this extremely helpful as putting these machines away is often a big frustrating struggle.

The cons are:

• no timing belt, which might make the carriage movements somewhat hard depending on your tension and knitting pattern and technique. It was not a problem for me at all.
• The most significant flow in my mind is that the patterning drums often get stuck if not oiled regularly, especially when not used for a very long time or put into storage (I restored already two OTHER machines where the drums were simply shut… They needed to be soaked in an oil bath and some heavy-duty disassembling). To avoid this problem, put some light oil regularly on the patterning drums. Lucky for me, this machine had the drums in excellent shape
• This model does not come with a lace carriage
• The carriage does not have a release lever – if the carriage gets stuck during knitting, you will have to remove the sinker plate and then move the carriage.

So, I did everything for this machine so you can simply take it out of the box and start knitting (cleaned, tested, replaced sponge bar, and checked all needles). I hope this machine will soon find you 🙂

This was the first Singer 321 that I refurbished and cleaned. But having already gained experience in servicing and refurbishing Singer/Studio machines, I did not hesitate to start working on it.

A little bit of history: Singer/Studio 321 machines were introduced in 1972 and were the second earliest model capable of patterning with 24-stitch punch cards. It is a standard (4.5 mm) gauge machine with 200 needles. So, this machine is 50 years old!!

I inserted a brand new sponge bar and sponge bar (purchased it from the Knitting Closet). It was specifically advertised for Studio/Singer machines. It fit right in but the white plastic end sticks out only on one side. So, make sure you don’t push the bar too far otherwise it will be hard to get it out to replace the needles and to replace the sponge.

I removed all removable rust from the inside of the machine and covered some rusty spots inside the case with an anti-rust coating.

To remove the carriage from the needles in working positions (for example, to unravel a row or if the carriage is stuck), the sinker plate needs to be removed from the carriage first. It is a bit not as convenient as other, newer models, but not the end of the world, in my opinion. The dial on the carriage is in Spanish but it is intuitive to use, especially if you have an English copy of the manual in front of you. If you are a Spanish speaker, then it is an extra bonus for you!!!

The manual is very well written. This machine could be accompanied by Spanish or English versions. This particular machine has words in Spanish )on the carriage) and an accompanying manual in Spanish. Please, let me know which copy you prefer. I liked very much that this machine have pegs to attach a row counter on both sides of the bed. I knitted a shawl and was glad that I did not have to transfer carriage all the way to the opposite end just t count my rows. The machine comes with all accessories mentioned in the manual, all of which fit nicely into a special box. It includes a set of punch cards but only 18 – cards 14 and 16 are missing.

I tested all the knobs, levers and card readers extensively. I knitted patterns using tuck-stitch, slip-stitch and fair isle on partial and full bed.

The sinker plate and the tension mast fit inside the case lid when not in use.

Now about the imperfections. Maybe because this machine is 50 years old, or maybe because the previous owners did not love her as much, there are some cosmetic imperfections and cracks on the case. None of these affect the machine performance. See the pictures below with brief description.

Side racks are missing. They are rubber pieces that go on the ends of the bed to prevent the carriage from mis-patterning if knitting on a full bed. However, with careful knitting and by not going too fast, it can be avoided. As I demonstrated in my video, it did not affect me tuck-stitch knitting on a full bed.

The body of the machine has a spot that I could not remove.

The case cover has several dents. The one below is especially visible.

Some spots and discoloration on the outside of the case, including the handle

These are where the holding clamps attach at the bottom of the machine. They are rusty but are very strong and held a machine for me without problems/.

Overall, I was extremely pleased with this machine. It is simple yet strong and will serve its new owners long years if serviced and take care of correctly. Check my video blog, showing this machine in action.

This machine was in decent shape when I got it. Even now, look how it shines even though there is some age-related discoloration on the plastic. It still needed a new sponge bar. A typical problem when the old sponge bars are not replaced in time is that it corrodes all needles. So, yes, some of the needles needed to be polished.

It was dusty so I also cleaned the bed and all the mechanisms. Patterning drums and the carriage needed some Kroil-oil treatment to get levers unstuck.

The machine works really well. I tested it on a full bed with stockinette stitch (to make sure all needles perform as they are supposed to). Check out my youtube video recorded specifically on this machine, which shows all these tests. (The only thing I did not test is the knit leader. I just do all my calculations myself and as of now don’t see a need in a kinit leader for my projects. The drum rotates though.

I tested fair isle, touch and slip stitch patterning. I also did a full bed fair isle testing.

See what cam out of these experiments on this machine:

• A double-sided reversible scarf/neck warmer
• And cozy, soft and very comfortable leg warmers

Some minor accessories are missing (but it will not prevent you from knitting even sophisticated things):

1. No lace carriage: lace carriages are typically sold for Memo Matic Singer 360K separately.
2. The machine came with only one set of punch card clamps, one set of yarn separators, one set of point cams and one silky thread/cord. Please, refer to the diagram below to know what these are. Point cams and yarn separators are only needed for single motif fair isle knitting. When you know how to do that, that means you are already very advance and by that time you will know whether you need an additional set and where to get it. Punch-card clips don’t break often but if they do, it is easy to get them on Aliexpress or Amazon.
3. The machine also did not come with an auxiliary feeding cam (number 22 on the diagram below). This cam is needed when knitters knit garments with the help of knit-leader (also often called a knit radar or knit contour). I consider myself an intermediate knitter but I yet to use a knit leader. I do all my calculations myself.

Now about several imperfections on this machine.

1. The tension dial on the carriage has slight dents (see below right under the handle). It absolutely did not affect my knitting, tension setup or stitch pick-up.
2. Side racks (also often called as rail ends) are missing. Typically, these are plastic pieces with ribbing that are attached on each end of the bed. They can be ordered online as well. The machine actually came with them but they were so crumpled that fell off the bed instantly. So, I had to throw them away. Why I do not find them to be the critical components? An average knitter would rarely use a full bed to knit. These rail ends are needed so if your carriage to maintain the patterning of the drums when you are close to the end of the metal bed. Sometimes the carriage accidentally comes of the bed and the patterning can be messed up. However, even without these side racks, I was able to demonstrate a full-bed knitting with punch cards: I just slowed down the arrange movements towards the end-sides of the bed to make sure that the patterning drum remains on the tracks.
3. I feel that on this machine, the carriage runs back and forth a bit louder than other machines even after a thorough oiling. I did not find any issues with the knitting though.
4. The lid of the whole case has some chipping. The most critical is on one side (see the two pictures below).

The case, however, is still structurally intact. I simply recommend when the machine is in storage, to put it n a dry environment maybe just wrapped with a large plastic bed on the side where you see this hole.

Two other minor cracks/broken pieces are on the other side of the case lid and inside the lid where the tension mast attaches. These are not critical.

Overall pros and cons of Singer 360K:

Pros:

• The patterning drums make it very easy to move the machine. They engage with the punch card mechanism very nicely without much noise.
• The manual is very well-written and I was able to follow the instructions with ease and to learn all the techniques.
• The other optional brochures included with the setup up contain information on the settings for punch cards to achieve certain pattern as well as how to knit garments of various shapes. I know these are available online, but when one knits, it is always nice to have a hard, high-quality, copy handy. All brochures could be found online.
• Easy-to find replacement needles since these models are relatively “newer” ones. I get mine on Aliexpress.
• The tools are pretty standard and are pretty interchangible with other models. All tools fit into a built-in box on the left-hand side of the machine.
• Some might find having the built-in knit-leaders very handy: there is no need to have a separate long setup laying around – in this setup all fits into one carrier box
• Includes an optional lace carriage
• I found that putting this machine to storage and opening and closing is much easier than multiple brother machines I had a chance to struggle with. There is a very clear schematic on the cover with the order of how placing the parts together. I found this extremely helpful as putting these machines away is often a big frustrating struggle.

  

  

   

• The carriage has a release lever (earlier Studio/Singer models do not), which is very convenient when a carriage needs to be removed from the bed in the middle of knitting if it gets stuck. In earlier models without this lever, one needs to unscrew the sinker plate and then lift the top cover of the carriage to remove the carriage from the bed.
• Built-in row counter.

The cons are:

• no timing belt, which might make the carriage movements somewhat hard depending on your tension and knitting pattern and technique. It was not a problem for me at all but after 200 rows of knitting my garment my hands and arms were a bit soar. Well, I guess this is how I can substitute my work out now.
• The most significant flow in my mind is that the patterning drums often get stuck if not oiled regularly, especially when not used for a very long time or put into storage (I restored already two OTHER machines where the drums were simply shut… They needed soak in an oil bath and some heavy-duty disassembling). To avoid this problem, put some light oil regularly on the patterning drums.
• Unlike Brother punch card machines, lace carriage is in a separate box. So, just one more thing to keep track off.
• The row counter dial is at the end of the bed. Not too inconvenient but I personally prefer the row count to be right in front of me – not at the end of the bed.

The machine is currently for sale in my Etsy store.