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Review of Scrubby yarn and how it knits on circular knitting machines Addi

Scrabby yarn (from IceYarns or from RedHeart) has sort of an eye-lash thread but with the “eyelashes” are created with the twistiess. It is typically used to knit washcloth for dishes and baths

Knitting by hand with this yarn was fun – it creates a unique texture without any effort. I also decided to use my Addi circular machine to see if I can make household items faster. So, I was able to knit loofahs, coffee holders (aka reusable sleeves for paper cups), place holders, table pads and coasters.

Both IceYarns and RedHear offer a very wide variety of colors, including solid, two and three color variegated types. I chose white and black yarn because in my opinion it hides all the crumbs and spills really well

The IceYarn offers scrubby yarn as 100% polyester. One skein holds 3.53 oz (100 g) and contains 103 yards (95 m). Red Heart offers both 100% polyester (100g/3.53 oz and 85 meters/92 yards per skein) and 100% cotton yarn (weight and yardage depend on whether the color is solid or variegated). I only tested the 100% polyester yarn because I had cotton washcloths and I could never get rid of the smell of dirty dishes even after washing the scrubbies over and over again.

The cast-one was straightforward and relatively easy. It did help to keep the tension loos but not too loose because the yarn is silky (very smooth) enough where it can skip stitches (which we don’t want). However, I started using contrasting waste yarn because it is easier to manipulate the stitches afterward (in order to put the washcloths together )

The knitting on the machine became significantly easier after the first two rows. However, some of the stitches did not sink into the slots on their own and I had to help “them” . Even though the yarn will hide all defects because of the variegated colors and because of the twisties on the yarn, I still did not want to create tuck stitches because they sometimes lead to missed stitches. Check out my youtube video on how I dealt with these stubborn stitches.

A square scrubby took 12 rows. In the same video, I demonstrated the techniques I used to finish these square scrubbies. I tested them and they are washable on a regular cycle and even dryable on “knits” cycles. Coffee mug sleeves would probably take 12-30 rows depending on whether you like it single-or double-layered. Placement mats should be done on large Addi. I made mine rectangular and double-layered with 60 rows.

Hague Linker – review by ComfiKnits, April 2022

I purchased a new Hague linker directly from Hague in UK and so far I am very pleased although not everything is ideal. This is the only linker that I ever used so I don’t really have what to compare. My linker with the one with the electronic foot pedal control but the same pros and cons and advice are applicable to a manual machine.

What I did on Hague linker:

  • Linked the edges of the scarf knitted on standard knitting machines. As the Hague manual mentions, it is extremely important to get a hang by practicing putting the knitted edge on the linker’s pegs to create a very nice and even seam.
  • Linked the open stitches on every and every other needle. I use this technique when I was to create more stretchy edges. Check out my video on those.
  • Linked the edges of the scarf knitted on a bulky machine – was very pleased as well

Overall recommendations:

  • Learn how to put the knitted edge efficiently and evenly on the pegs.

    I typically try to put the whole piece on a linker – it helps me to evenly distribute the stitches along the piece length.

  • Always knit blank 10-12 stitches at the end to easy take of the linked piece of the machine and to hide the loose ends. By ‘blank’ stitches I mean the thread looping on itself without any underlying fabric.
  • Push the fabric placed on pegs as far as possible so it does not slide off.
  • Keep even tension between first and second fabric layer when joining them on pegs

Pros and Cons.

(+) The edge is nicer than when sewn by hand

(+) Faster than linking by hand

(+) Easy to see as you knit whether the edge is even or not

(+) the size of the linker is compact enough so I sometimes move the whole machine if for some reason I feel that moving the ring with pegs is not convenient. Or sometimes I move around myself whatever works, right?!?

(+) very well-written instructions and manual.

(+) If the needle breaks, it is easy to replace

(+) Parts are available from the manufacturer.

(-) even though there is a tension mast and a threading mechanism with tension control, I feel the flow of the threading yarn is not even. I tried to wind my thread in a different way and it still catches one in a while. But that’s ok and is easy to get control over.

(-) it does miss stitches once in a while. So the yarn threading, tension, combination of thread and the thickness of the knitted pieces are all important.

(-) Even though replacing a needle is relatively easy, putting it in the absolutely correct position requires trial and error. It is doable, yes! But I had to step away from my Hague linker for a couple of days not to get too frustrated

Pros and cons specifically for an electric linker:

(+) Hands are free – all control over the needle movement and speeds are through the foot pedal.

(+) The electric linker can be used manually as well but not many stitches.

(-) I wish the cord was a bit longer. But I wonder if this is some sort of safety precaution because the cord on my sewing machine is also shorter than I want.

I learned a lot by simply using and experimenting with various techniques. There is still a lot to knit and to link and to learn on Hague linker! Below are some products I finished on Hague!

Since this is the only linker I ever tried I cannot really compare it to anything else rather than sewing the garment pieces by hand and on a sewing machine. Overall I am very pleased and will continue getting a hang of various techniques, including decorative ones, on my Hague linker.

Testing Lion Brand 24/7 cotton yarn on Addi circular knitting machine

I was again trying to discover what yarns my Addi will like. Additionally, I was destashing and helping a friend with a charity project. So, I decided to see if I can make a scarf out of this Lion brand 24/7 Cotton yarn.

Each skein contains 186 yards (170 m) and 3.5 oz (100 g) of yarn. I used grey color – neutral color and can be a scarf for male or female.

Typically, cotton yarns are not very suitable on circular knitting machines because of their rigidity. Additionally, this yarn almost looked like a chain and had to stretch to it. Or maybe the thread could be described as a cord. However, the skein was wound so tightly, I could not even get the other end from inside of the skein. So, I decided to rewind it into a cake (which I strongly recommend for all projects on circular and flat bed machines especially operated with a power adapters or motors).

The yarn surprised me: it behaved flawlessly. I was able to hand-crank and get extremely even stitches. First, I was very cautious because at the very beginning (as always), the first rows knitted somewhat loose and I was worried the machine might even skip/tuck of drop stitches or skip the yarn. But once I had enough length and attached a weight, I was even able to knit the whole length of the scarf with a power adapter to my Addi. See my video that shows actual knitting speed – was pretty fast!!

Looks at this beautiful web of stitches created by both hand and drill-cranking.

One skein proivded 252 rows of the scarf with beatiful even stitches. I was so pleased!! I hope you will enjoy knitting with this yarn – just remember the apply enough tension to knit without problems.

Second Singer Studio 360 Mod restored/cleaned/refurbished in March 2022

This machine was in decent shape when I got it. Even now, look how it shines even though there is some age-related discoloration on the plastic. It still needed a new sponge bar. A typical problem when the old sponge bars are not replaced in time is that it corrodes all needles. So, yes, some of the needles needed to be polished.

It was dusty so I also cleaned the bed and all the mechanisms. Patterning drums and the carriage needed some Kroil-oil treatment to get levers unstuck.

The machine works really well. I tested it on a full bed with stockinette stitch (to make sure all needles perform as they are supposed to). Check out my youtube video recorded specifically on this machine, which shows all these tests. (The only thing I did not test is the knit leader. I just do all my calculations myself and as of now don’t see a need in a kinit leader for my projects. The drum rotates though.

I tested fair isle, touch and slip stitch patterning. I also did a full bed fair isle testing.

See what cam out of these experiments on this machine:

  • A double-sided reversible scarf/neck warmer
  • And cozy, soft and very comfortable leg warmers

Some minor accessories are missing (but it will not prevent you from knitting even sophisticated things):

  1. No lace carriage: lace carriages are typically sold for Memo Matic Singer 360K separately.
  2. The machine came with only one set of punch card clamps, one set of yarn separators, one set of point cams and one silky thread/cord. Please, refer to the diagram below to know what these are. Point cams and yarn separators are only needed for single motif fair isle knitting. When you know how to do that, that means you are already very advance and by that time you will know whether you need an additional set and where to get it. Punch-card clips don’t break often but if they do, it is easy to get them on Aliexpress or Amazon.
  3. The machine also did not come with an auxiliary feeding cam (number 22 on the diagram below). This cam is needed when knitters knit garments with the help of knit-leader (also often called a knit radar or knit contour). I consider myself an intermediate knitter but I yet to use a knit leader. I do all my calculations myself.

Now about several imperfections on this machine.

  1. The tension dial on the carriage has slight dents (see below right under the handle). It absolutely did not affect my knitting, tension setup or stitch pick-up.
  2. Side racks (also often called as rail ends) are missing. Typically, these are plastic pieces with ribbing that are attached on each end of the bed. They can be ordered online as well. The machine actually came with them but they were so crumpled that fell off the bed instantly. So, I had to throw them away. Why I do not find them to be the critical components? An average knitter would rarely use a full bed to knit. These rail ends are needed so if your carriage to maintain the patterning of the drums when you are close to the end of the metal bed. Sometimes the carriage accidentally comes of the bed and the patterning can be messed up. However, even without these side racks, I was able to demonstrate a full-bed knitting with punch cards: I just slowed down the arrange movements towards the end-sides of the bed to make sure that the patterning drum remains on the tracks.
  3. I feel that on this machine, the carriage runs back and forth a bit louder than other machines even after a thorough oiling. I did not find any issues with the knitting though.
  4. The lid of the whole case has some chipping. The most critical is on one side (see the two pictures below).

The case, however, is still structurally intact. I simply recommend when the machine is in storage, to put it n a dry environment maybe just wrapped with a large plastic bed on the side where you see this hole.

Two other minor cracks/broken pieces are on the other side of the case lid and inside the lid where the tension mast attaches. These are not critical.

Overall pros and cons of Singer 360K:

Pros:

  • The patterning drums make it very easy to move the machine. They engage with the punch card mechanism very nicely without much noise.
  • The manual is very well-written and I was able to follow the instructions with ease and to learn all the techniques.
  • The other optional brochures included with the setup up contain information on the settings for punch cards to achieve certain pattern as well as how to knit garments of various shapes. I know these are available online, but when one knits, it is always nice to have a hard, high-quality, copy handy. All brochures could be found online.
  • Easy-to find replacement needles since these models are relatively “newer” ones. I get mine on Aliexpress.
  • The tools are pretty standard and are pretty interchangible with other models. All tools fit into a built-in box on the left-hand side of the machine.
  • Some might find having the built-in knit-leaders very handy: there is no need to have a separate long setup laying around – in this setup all fits into one carrier box
  • Includes an optional lace carriage
  • I found that putting this machine to storage and opening and closing is much easier than multiple brother machines I had a chance to struggle with. There is a very clear schematic on the cover with the order of how placing the parts together. I found this extremely helpful as putting these machines away is often a big frustrating struggle.

     

  • The carriage has a release lever (earlier Studio/Singer models do not), which is very convenient when a carriage needs to be removed from the bed in the middle of knitting if it gets stuck. In earlier models without this lever, one needs to unscrew the sinker plate and then lift the top cover of the carriage to remove the carriage from the bed.
  • Built-in row counter.

The cons are:

  • no timing belt, which might make the carriage movements somewhat hard depending on your tension and knitting pattern and technique. It was not a problem for me at all but after 200 rows of knitting my garment my hands and arms were a bit soar. Well, I guess this is how I can substitute my work out now.
  • The most significant flow in my mind is that the patterning drums often get stuck if not oiled regularly, especially when not used for a very long time or put into storage (I restored already two OTHER machines where the drums were simply shut… They needed soak in an oil bath and some heavy-duty disassembling). To avoid this problem, put some light oil regularly on the patterning drums.
  • Unlike Brother punch card machines, lace carriage is in a separate box. So, just one more thing to keep track off.
  • The row counter dial is at the end of the bed. Not too inconvenient but I personally prefer the row count to be right in front of me – not at the end of the bed.

The machine is currently for sale in my Etsy store.

Singer 700 Mod Memo-Matic Knitting machine

When I got this machine, it was in excellent shape. Previously I restored and cleaned Singer 210 MemoMatic and Studio 360K so I was familiar with Singer’s knitting machines designs.

Singer 700 is very similar to Studio 360: the most obvious differences are positions of punch card reader, knit leader and a row counter. Another prominent difference is that the row counter dial in Singer 700 is in the middle of the bed (versus at the very end of the bed on Singer 360). Singer 700 is also a later-released model. But maybe the reason for a later release is simply a rebranding – the name changed from Studio to Singer (or vice versa). Since all of this not critical, let’s get to the actual machine.

Singer 700 is a 24-hole punch card reading machine capable of slip- and tuck- stitch patterning and fair isle knitting. In fact, I learned fair isle knitting on this machine for the first time. I will post in a several blog article my thoughts about fair isle, common mistakes and problems and how to trouble shoot mis-patterning issues.

The machine came to me with all accessories, including all transfer tools, knit leader sheets, weights, etc. The gauge guides did not come with this machine (see number 8 below). The punch cards that came with this machine are mostly the same with some exception. (For example, intarsia card is not as shown in the manual). Some other cards are different as well. I tested the tuck and slip stitch cards and they worked fine.

The machine has its own original box and hard cover, both of which are in excellent shape.

The set of manuals that came with this machine includes only Operation manual (http://machineknittingetc.com/knitmaster-600-700-operation-knitting-machine-instruction-manual.html).

The knitting manual (which explains how to use the knit radar) is available here: http://machineknittingetc.com/knitmaster-600-700-knitting-machine-instruction-manual.html

The pattern book for this model is available here: http://machineknittingetc.com/knitmaster-600-700-pattern-manual.html

The accessories fit nicely into a storage box on the side of the machine. I used it also as a stand to keep my handy tools (stitch transfer and needle selector) during the actual knitting – otherwise they are constantly getting lost!

In this machine, I replaced a sponge but the bar is original. (the metal sort of “railing” that holds the sponge). Unfortunately, the machine came to me with a slightly chipped sponge bar end – the plastic piece that we grab to remove the sponge bar. However, it absolutely does not affect the function of the sponge bar and, especially, of the machine. I could still easily move the bar in and out.

As needles often rust due to the old sponge bar not being replaced in time, I remove all of them to make sure they did not rust. All needles were in excellent shape. I examined every single needle.

I tested this machine extensively with the exception of the knit leader (I don’t use knit leader as I do all my calculations myself). I am simply not used to knit leaders – it’s just the way I was first taught how to knit). Since this machine is very similar to Studio 360K and I already knew how to do simply tuck- and slip-stitch patterning, with this machine I mostly focused on learning how to knit fair isle.

I knitted fair isle on a full bed and then on only middle 90 needles to make leg warmers. I made several pairs and one of them are shown below. (I used a card I had for my other machine).

The machine has similar pros and cons to the 360K with one exception: the carriage on Singer 700 Mod moves much easier than on Studio 360K even though it does not have a timing belt!!!

Pros:

  • The patterning drums make it very easy to move the machine. They engage with the punch card mechanism very nicely without much noise.
  • The manual is very well-written and I was able to follow the instructions with ease and to learn all the techniques.
  • All manuals and brochures are available online.
  • All tools fit nicely into a built-in storage box, the cover of which actually shows how to arrange them.

  • Easy-to find replacement needles since these models are relatively “newer” ones.
  • The carriage has a release lever (earlier Studio/Singer models do not), which comes handy when the carriage gets stuck and needs to be removed from the bed in the idle of knitting.
  • The tools are pretty standard and are pretty interchangible with other models.


  • The carriage moves very easily – I currently have a shoulder injury but still move it without any pain.
  • Some might find having the built-in knit-leaders very handy: there is no need to have a separate long setup laying around – in this setup all fits into one carrier box
  • I found that putting this machine to storage and opening and closing is much easier than multiple brother machines I had a chance to struggle with. There is a very clear schematic on the cover with the order of how placing the parts together. I found this extremely helpful as putting these machines away is often a big frustrating struggle.
  • Built-in row counter: knitters should not worry that a detachable row counter would be lost (like for Brother machines).
  • All parts fit into a case. The schematics on the case lid shows how to put away the machine and it is very easy to follow (much easier than on Brother).


  • Easy-to-learn patterning. The knobs on the carriage are straightforward – just follow the steps in the manual.



    The cons are:

  • The most significant flow in my mind is that the patterning drums often get stuck if not oiled regularly, especially when not used for a very long time or put into storage (I restored already two OTHER machines where the drums were simply shut… They needed soak in an oil bath and some heavy-duty disassembling). To avoid this problem, put some light oil regularly on the patterning drums. Lucky for me, this machine had the drums in excellent shape.
  • I personally wish the setup included cast-on bars but it might also be my personal preference. However, cast on bars can be easily purchased.

    Take a look again at this beautiful setup and check it out on my Etsy page.

Brother yarn winder

As all my other assesories, this yarn winder was inherited by me with the two large lots of knitting machine and their assesories.

After testing several variety of different yarn winders, I realized that this model and this yarn winding mechanism is actually my favorite (check my blog for the pros and cons of other yarn winder as well as a table comparing severla at once).

Like most home and hobby yarn widners, this one has a screw-on clamp that has a winder range and allows the winder to be attach to variety of thick and thin table surfaces.

Both of the yarn-guide rods have a spiral thread-through mechanism – so if you screwed up your yarn winding, you don’t have to cut it to start all over (like some other models).

The second rod (or yarn guide) is rotating which allows for a more even yarn distribution and also for a bigger yarn skeins to be wound.

Well, it is kind of hard to find many words to describe this yarn winder (as well as others).

I think it would be better if you simply watch my short video:

 

I really hope you can buy this yarn winder since , in my opinion, it is one of the best ones!!

Brother KH551 – my second one

I took on a project of cleaning and conditioning this machine with enthusiasm because I already restored one Brother KH551 earlier this year. This machine was easy to clean – it needed some dusting, wiping, needle inspection, some needle replacement.

 

It came with ALL accessories (even including a silky thread) with the exception of hard copy of the manual (which can be found in here absolutely free: http://machineknittingetc.com/brother-kh551-user-guide.html).

Despite being familiar with Brother KH551 already, I was puzzled by some of the quirky perks of this machine.

For example, the sinker plate’s thread guide was somewhat different from the previous KH551 I restored: it had a bracket. I checked with FB experts on push button machines and they assured me that some KH551 indeed have such brace for better control over color change. When I was threading the yarn through this bracket, it did not cause me any discomfort and it only took two tries to get used to it.

 

Overall, the machine was in great shape even before I started restoring it. The row counter was not even stractch despite this machine being made in 1960s.

Even the undercarraige and the pegs were without any rust.

 

I extensively tested the patterning mechanism. I was not a big fan of constant ratcheting but I was pleased with the result. At least it was straightforward and easy to understand. Maybe sometimes challenging to keep track of the order of operation especially for a long pattern. Below you see several patterns I knitted by following the instrucions in the manual.

 

Then I wanted to make sure that the whole set of 200 needles functions smoothly. So, I started a blanket on a full bed and had good success!!

In my video I created specifically for this machine (https://youtu.be/epZrcb1MEZA) I show that it managed some challenging yarn pretty good as well!!

 

Below are the general pros and cons of Brother KH551:

 

Pros:

+ Carriage is very light and slides very easily

+ The bed is narrower than other machines – which makes it more compact

+ …and makes the machine lighter than other similar models

+ relatively easy deep cleaning – all parts are solid and straightforward to insert/assemble/disassemble

+ The needle count is engraved on the bed – so these slippery and constantly in the way paper liners showing the needle count won’t annoy you by constantly sliding and getting lost.

+ Threading the yarn is a bit more intuitive and straightforward in my opinion

+ built-in capabilities for 3 different yarns

+ the hard case is a combination of fake leather and plastic, which makes it not only look neater and nicer than other machines but also mode durable. The case shows absolutely no discoloration despite the age of this machine.

 

Cons:

  • The push-button mechanism helps to select the needles but every row, you need to change the needles selected (basically turn the ratchet tool to SET and OFF). It might be tedious and you need to keep track of the correct order.
  • Some might find the machine too simple – yes, it has only limited patterning capabilities. However, with manual needle selection and yarn manipulation the possibilities are endless.

 

Overall, I think this machine is excellent for somebody who wants to simply knit blankets, scarves or for people who find punchcard mechanisms and electronic mechanisms too overwhelming. It is also excellent machine for beginners since it is very robust and simple.

Also, you don’t even need to use patterning. Just find a thin self-striping yarn and knit by a simply stockinet stitch like I did to create this wonderful sweater for myself!!

Comparison of various yarn winders

 

Royal

Brother

Silver reed

Knit Picks

    
 

   

Overall rating:

****

*****

****

****

    

Capable of winding into cones?

Yes, with add-on cones

Yes, yes with add-on cons

Yes, with add-on cons

No, to the best of my knowledge

    

Can handle large skeins?

Yes, tested on 6 oz

yes

no

no

    

Manufactured now?

No

Maybe – similar design but not 100% the same

no

yes

    

 

Here are more details on each individual winder:

 

Video demo

Detailed pros and cons

Royal

https://wordpress.com/post/thoughtsandknits.wordpress.com/507

Silver Reed

https://wordpress.com/post/thoughtsandknits.wordpress.com/477

Brother

https://wordpress.com/post/thoughtsandknits.wordpress.com/566

KnitPicks

   

 

Royal yarn winder: the one with a curler.

When I inherited this strange-looking Royal Ball winder, I quickly dismissed it and kept it in a drawer. It was when I was still in love with my KnitPicks ball winder and did not knit at high volumes from big skeins of yarn.

But the more I read and participated in FB group exchanges, I realized how valuable it is to some people and I decided to give it try.

First – why I found it strange. At a glance, it looks like an old grammar hair curler was glued to stuck. Would not you agree? Second, the way to thread the yarn through the whole device and (how I discovered later) around the “hair curler” is not intuitive at all. Check out my video of failed attempts.

However, this small device is pretty mighty. You can place a detachable cone on it and wind the yarn directly on it and then remove. I managed to wind 6 oz of yarn. (However, in my opinion, it looked pretty ugly and not like a cone at all! )

I very much liked that it has a built-in and easy-to-screw-in table clamp. So, I would not worry about losing the clamp like with other winders. However, I felt that the thread started weakening as I had to tighten it during the process of wounding the yarn. I also feel that this yarn winder might not be attached to all tables – too thick or too thin table might not work with it.

Below are pros and cons of this Royal Yarn Winder:

(+) can work with detachable plastic cones

(+) has built-in table clamp – you don’t have to worry about loosing it

(+) can handle large skeins of yarn

(+) even slippery yarns don’t slide in the middle of your wounding (like on some other yarn winders).

(+) compact

Cons:

(-) Hard to find

(-) I feel that the screw thread for the clamps inside the body might get broken with age… I somewhat observed it with both yarn winders I tested – I had to tighten them quite a bit during the wounding.

(-) threading the yarn through was not straight-forward and intuitive for me

(-) I wish the large cake looked a bit prettier after it is all done But it is in no way a deal braker for me.

(-) might not be attached to a wide range of tables due to the clamp size limitations.

I sold both of my Royal Yarn Winders as I liked my other ones better but I enjoyed testing this one and learning how it works. I hope you will find one soon to introduce yourself to it too

2021-12-14 Review of a vintage Silver reed yarn winder

This little cute guy was, as all other my aseesories, a part of my last lot of knitting machine purchased during an estate sale. It has seen its ways and was probably working hard jugding by a small chip on its cone.

Howeer, I was very curious to test it and compare to other yarn winders since I have never seen one like this before either in real life or on posts related to hand and machine knitting. It is obviously vintage since these yarn winders are no longer in production and nobody makes such designs.

I was pleasantly surprized how heavy its base was. At first, I though it was the only way it would sit on the table – no other support is needed. After several uncesuful attempts to wind the yarn in this way, I realized that it is indeed supposed to be attached to the table.. the reason I did not realize it quickly enough because the slot for the clamp was not obvious and the base was so heavy. Also, all the clamps that came with that lot were in one large bag – who knows which machine they were for.

However, not all clamps were suitable for this little guy. The clamp shown above has a little knotch sticking out and it did not slide easily into the slot.

However, I was able to find a clamp with the slightly elongated top part – I suspect the clamp for silver reed or studio machine. And it worked perfectly: it slid in without problems and the extra length helped to hold this winder stronger.

The device has a yarn guide that moves in a wide range and guides the yarn to be wound evenly across the cone.

Overall I was pleased. Below is how it is compared to other ones.

Pros and cons:

(+) The design is simple.

(+) Straightforward usage.

(+) can be attached to any table with a metal clamp available with almost every knitting machine.

(+) even though there is no groove to insert the yarn for extra tension, the yarn cake/ball does not slide (like on my KnitPicks Yarn winder) in the middle of the winding. I found this a huge advantage of this Silver Reed winder.

(+) compact

 

Cons:

(-) I wished it had a little groove to attach the yarn like other cones do so the yarn does not slide and it is easy to find the yarn end inside the cake.

(-) the cone is not detachable.

(-) Although I did not specifically test it, other cones probably will not fit on this winder and might prevent yarn guide from sliding freely.

(-) the size of the yarn ball might be limited to 4 oz. When the cake becomes too large, the yarn guide does not slide easily and the cake start slipping and skipping.

(-) does not seem to be capable of winding the yarn into cones

 

Watch how it works in my you tube channel.

https://youtu.be/TDeg5UnBHzc