Brother KH860 machine and Brother KR830 ribber (with KR850 carriage) serviced and tested in November 2025 in my shop

Brother KH860 knitting machine combined with Brother KR830/850 ribbing attachment is a powerful standard-gauge knitting setup capable of producing garments, blankets, and other knitted items. Read more about pros and cons of KH860, KR83,0 and KR850 in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The post below is dedicated to the particular setup serviced and tested in my shop in November 2025.

A typical first step for any needlebed is to remove, clean and inspect all needles. Bent needles or those with bad latches are replaced with new stock. Then I clean the needlebeds and carriages from old gunk and grease. I opened both carriages and cleaned under the lids as well. All the needles were then tested while knitting various fabrics: tuck, slip, fair isle and ribbing (see the videos of the ribber and the machine).

Knitting machine:

I replaced the end caps for the lid and the main bed as they were cracked. You might see slightly different colors between left- and right-hand side plastic caps.

The machine was tested on all needles. I knitted tuck-, slip- (same as part) and two-color fair isle. I discovered several faulty needles during these tests and replaced all of them.

Punchcare reader was cleaned from old grease, insides were cleaned from lint and old gunk. Its functionality and needle selection were tested using card #1, where every other needle is selected on every other row (easy to see if there are any problems).

The machine came without many accessories, but I collected a nice, almost all-new stock of accessories.

The missing items are: oil (use Hope’s oil, available on Amazon); a tapestry needle (any needle of your choice will work); and wax.

Brand new (new stock) Brother row counter. Because it is new, its color is lighter than the plastic panels of the needle bed (they show yellowish discoloration due to the sunlight, which is typically seen with these machines).

The cast-on combs are in good shape, too.

New tension mast (new stock). A tension mast that came with this machine did not include a slot for the wax and a slot for the garter carriage sensor. The only “original” accessory is probably the carriage lock.

This KH860 does not include built-in garter carriage rails (in the past, I worked with some KH860 that indeed include those).

Imperfections:

  1. Overall, the machine is in great shape. The case and the case lid are in good shape. The lid has one medium-sized ben,t but overall is almost free from scratches and scuffs.

2. Carriage has some minor rust spots on the plate where the sinker plate attaches, which I treated but not painted with Rustoleum (it sometimes creates too thick of a layer and might prevent smooth gliding). No rust inside the carriage or on the undercarriage side.

3. The lace carriage has a superficial crack and some minor scuffs on the handle.

4. The retaining bar with a newly replaced sponge strip goes in with a bit of effort. This configuration is the only one out of several I tested (I had to reglue several different sponges) that provides 100% accurate patterning on the whole bed. If the tape on the ends wears out (which happens if you remove the retaining bar often to replace needles, etc.), just tape with very thin medical tape with just one (non-overlapping) layer. Medical tape is the best because if it comes off, it is not as gluey as other tapes (like electrical tape).

Despite all the imperfections and a couple of missing minor accessories, the machine works great (see the video). The carriage slides on all needles (without yarn) very easily, with just one hand, with different carriage settings. Even with the yarn, it glides easily.

RIBBER:

The ribber bed is KR830 model but the carrigae is for the KR850 (the lili buttons are a give-away).

The carriage was deep-cleaned and inspected. All buttons, levers, and pressers work and move smoothly (see the video).

The ribber brackets were cleaned of old grease to ensure smooth movement (but you don’t want it too smooth to prevent the ribber from unplanned sliding down).

The machine comes with all accessories (including a hard copy of KR850 manual; KR830 can be found online). When attaching the needlebed, refer to the KR830 manual. When operating the carriage, refer to the KR850 manual. I do not have a plating feeder at the moment; that is an accessory to the KR850 carriage. Nor do I have the pressers (when I knitted, I did not use them at all). My understanding is that these are not all that critical. Most knitters do not get that advanced in choosing plating.

KR830 accesories
KR850 accessories

The ribber was tested using two different combinations of every other needle (it is easier to knit on every other needle than on all needles: problems associated with yarn and tension selection are less pronounced) to ensure that all needles form the correct stitches. I used two separate yarns but they are only different by color.

BTW, I am including the yarn I used while testing the ribber (the bluish one) for you to practice with a knwon-to-work thread

I am also including a manual for the KR850 for the carriage functions. I do not have a spare manual for the KR830 but it is available online for free. The only difference between KR830 and KR850 beds is the brackets: how they are inserted and attached to he main bed. All other settings and functions are the same. As a result, some of the accessories that typically come with the KR850 ribber bed will not be included with this KR830 bed.

Imperfections of the ribber:

  1. The cast-on combs are not as smooth as I wished, but the yarn does not get pulled. So I left them alone.
  2. The knob for the I-II change lever (at the bottom of the carriage) is in a bit rough shape. But it sits pretty tightly, so I left it along.
  3. When attaching the connecting arm to the main carriage, sometimes the plastic from the oister screw-on knobs comes off as small shavings (the metal screws rub against the thread on the oister knobs). It is pretty typical for these old machines.

These imperfections are mostly cosmetical. They still did not interfere with me knitting several pieces of fabric that I converted into the items below.

Gift bag

Hat:

Ear warmer/head band:

KnitKing RK900 ribber serviced and tested in October 2025

Knitking RK900 ribber fits most Brother and Knitking knitting machines with punchcard and electronic capabilities. It is identical to the Brother KR850, KR890 and KR900 ribbers. Thus, read the corresponding articles about their pros and cons in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The rest of the blog post below is dedicated to a specific ribber, serviced and tested in my shop in November 2025.

Before I even started testing the ribber, I removed all needles, cleaned them and inspected each individually for any bents, flaws, sticky latches, etc.

I then tested the machine using three different yarns. One yarn is a sport-yarn thickness with wool content (50%), and two others ones are thinner 100% acrylic yarns. The machine handle all of those wonderfully. The tests were done on small number of ever-other-needles, on two configurations of every-pther-needles, but on the full bed and on all needles on a select number of needles. The machine behaved really well during the tests: watch a video I recorded to confirm that.

On one of the knitted panels, I saw an area with an ok-formed stitch but not super even. I was not sure what it was (probably because I mistakenly moved forward several needles on the main bed to B position, not every other one). I tested that middle section on ALL (not on every-other-one) needles. Because all the needles were selected, the carriage moved a bit harder. But all stitches formed beautifully. So: false alarm.

All carriage buttons and level move freely. The little round knob on the carriage bottom lever is missing but will be replaced soon.

The machine will come with all accessories. A lot of these accessories look brand new (from my personal stash), especially the cast-on combs and the barrel weights. Several are indeed new from new stock (double eyelet transfer needle, needle selection comb, ratchet tool, claw hanging weights).

A hard copy of the manual is included as well (it is marked as Brother KR900, which is the same model).

CONS and IMPERFECTIONS:

  • Carriage cover has some minor scratches and spots (none affect the functioning)
  • The only, very minor “accessory” missing is a spare needle case
  • Attaching the connecting arm might need paying attention (see below)
  • Cam lever knob is missing (but is replaced soon)

The way I figured out the best way for this setup to attach the connecting arm is this: insert the connecting arm into the main carriage, slightly fasten the oister knobs, move the carraige+connecting arm to connect to the ribber carriage; after it snaps into the ribber carriage, finish fastening the oister knobs, but do not overtighten it. I found out that this is the best way to securely and reliably tighten the connecting arm to the main carriage and to the ribber carriage. When I tried the usual method (completely insert the connecting arm, tighten and then attach to the ribber carriage positioned to the left of the carriage, they did not feel all reliable and did not nest as snugly. My TLC-method is also shown in the video.

The panel knitted while testing this ribber were converted to a hat (the brown ribbing in on the “right” side and the greyish ribbing is on the inside), which will go to charity during our local Thanksgiving and Christmas hat and scarf drive.

Happy Knitting on this wonderful ribbing setup!

Studio SRP50 ribber tested on Studio by White SK740 knitting machine in my shop in August 2025

BUY HERE AND PAY LESS

Studio SRP50 ribber ($505) + shipping ($50) Shipping to West Coast, Hawaii and Alaska might be more.

$555.00

Studio SRP50 ribber fits a vast majority of standard-gauge Singer/Silver/Silver Reed/Studio/Empisal Knitmaster/Riccar knitting machines.

Read about Studio SRP50, Empisal Knitmaster SRP50, Silver SRP50 and Singer SRP50 ribbers (which are the same, just different branding) in the Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. The post below is dedicated to a specific ribber I serviced and tested in my shop.

This Studio SRP50 ribber was tested on Studio by White SK740 standard-gauge knitting machine with punchcard reading capabilities.

I performed the usual cleaning routine: took out all needles, cleaned and inspected each, replaced bent or those with sticky latches; cleaned and serviced the needlebed. I spent a lot of time making sure that the distance between the main and ribber beds is optimum for my knitting. I used very thin and medium-thin yarns. If you use slightly thicker yarns or thinner ones, you might need to adjust the distance. There are a lot of online resources on how to do it.

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The correct distance between the beds is one of the most critical aspects of successful knitting.

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I cleaned the carriage and cleaned the retaining bar (which is a plastic strip; no sponge).

The ribber will come with all major and most minor accessories.

The missing accessories are:

  • close-knit bar. It is a narrow (1 x 910 mm) piece of plastic. According to the forums and even the manual itself, it gets misplaced and lost very often. The same forums mention that it is rarely used – maybe for very fine yarns.
  • The “screw driver” did not come with this setup either. I am adding a ratchet tool instead. I used it for all adjustments of the ribber. For some adjustments, a regular flat-head screwdriver might be needed.

I recommend first swatch tests to be on every other needle and/or with a very thin yarn to get to know your machine without worrying about yarn adjustments. This is what I did when I tested this ribber. The knitted fabrics were then converted to hats, a band (made from a swatch) and a neck warmer below.

I knitted on every other needle but used two different combinations to ensure that I knit on ALL needles. Combination one was three needles on the left of the ribber not selected, and combination two was two needles on the left of the ribber not selected. See the video of those tests. The tests on a full bed are also important not only to assess how smooth the carriage runs, how well the needlebed is oiled, but also to ensure that all needles form correct stitches. Check out the video to see that all needles indeed knitted well.

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Brother KR830 ribber serviced for Tyan

This Brother KR830 ribber was prepared (cleaned, serviced, and tested) in January 2025. This post is dedicated to this specific ribber. Refer to my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia to learn the pros and cons of Brother KR830 ribbers.

The ribber did not come with a carriage. Thus, I used a carriage from my stash. However, the carriage is from Brother KR850 ribbing attachment (which is a bit more advanced – read here): you can see “lili” buttons on the carriage picture, which are specific to KR850 ribbers only.

However, as shown in my video, KR830 needle bed, KR830 sinker plate, and KR850 carriage worked well in tandem with my Brother KH940 knitting machine. In fact, the carriage slides easily even with the yarn fed through it (as also demonstrated in my video).

Despite being not for the KR830 machine, the carriage works great and is in great shape. All levers, knobs and buttons move on both sides of the carriage.

The ribber came without some other accessories. I put together a set of accessories. All major accessories will be included.

The original cardboard box will not be included. Regardless, the machine will be packed for shipping really well.

The table clamps are exactly those used during the tests. So the angle between the ribber bed and the main bed will be the same. The needle selection ruler is new stock as well.

The aluminum claw weights are new. The rack lever is new (thus, it is lighter in color than all other plastic components).

The hard copy of the manual for the Brother KR830 will be included as well.

Refer to a free manual available online to learn about the functions of the KR850 carriage.

I cleaned the ribber, thoroughly oiled it, and removed old grease. I inspected all needles (individually and then by knitting on the full bed) and replaced the bent and faulty ones with the needles from a new stock.

I dedicated a lot of time to adjusting the distance between the main bed and the ribber. It is one of the most important parameters during knitting.

Knitting on a machine attached to a ribber is often an interplay between the yarn the knitter is using, tension, and the angle between the ribber and the main bed. The distance was adjusted for the thin yarn (boucle) and slightly thicker than the sock-yarn-thickness yarn (see my video).

During the tests, while the tension was chosen too loose for my first yarn, I was losing stitches (shown in my video – see a clip starting at 2 min 30 s). But as I adjusted the tension, the knitting became flawless.

I knitted on the full bed to demonstrate that all needles form nice stitches. If the latches did not work well or if the needles were bent, it would manifest itself as tucked or missed stitches.

Typically, it is challenging to need a full ribbing on the full bed (All needles are in working positions). Thus, I chose an every-other needle ribbing pattern and knitted on two different sets of every other needle.

I would not recommend beginners to start knitting on the full bed since there are several challenges associated with it:

  • hard to insert the side hanging weights when all (or almost all) needles are in their working positions (you can see of bit of this struggle in the video);
  • the knitter needs to pay especially more attention to the carriage position on the edges of the needle bed and to the yarn tension to avoid side floaters (I experienced them – see my video)

Pattern one (see video) had three needles NOT selected on the ribbing attachment. It used slightly thicker yarn. Pattern two had two needles not selected on the left-hand side of the ribber bed. I used thinner but boucle yarn. Both yarns produced wonderful fabrics. I made two great hats out of the knitted panels.

Imperfections:

1. The main bed has two minor rust spots underneath that I covered with the rust-stopping liquid. It is not pretty but at least it prevents further corrosion.

2. The cast-on combs, both small and long, had rust spots that I also covered with Rustoleum. I know it does not look pretty after i applied to liquid but it stops further corrosion. I did not have problems with the yarn catching on the rust spots. These are mostly cosmetic defects.

One cast-on comb side has more spots than the other (on both combs).

The yarn holder looks a bit rusted too but is relatively smooth to touch:

The plastic fine knitting bar is packed inside the ribber itself:

BTW, the hats were donated to a woman, who hand-embroiders the textiles ( as a hobby) and then donated to the women who lost hair due to the alopecia.

Overall, I am very pleased with the performance of this ribbing attachment. Hoping you will be too!

Brother KR260 ribber serviced in August 2024

Brother KR260 ribbing attachment fits bulky knitting machines Brother KH260 and Brother KH270. Read more about this ribbing attachment in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia (…coming soon).

The article below is focused on the ribber I tested in August 2024 in my shop.

The ribber bed was thoroughly cleaned, the side brackets were cleaned and oiled, and all needles were removed and inspected individually (and then tested by knitting on the full bed).

The distance between the main bed and the ribber was easy to adjust. I almost instantly got the optimum distance and was able to knit a swatch right away. See the pictures of the first cast-on row: all distances are even and there are no missed stitches.

I left the side brackets in the machine so the next owner will not have to make too many adjustments. I knitted the swatch to several rows and made a narrow scarf out of it (see pictures below).

The retaining bar is new with the new sponge. (Typically I reuse the retaining bar (the metal part of the needle pusher) and attach a new sponge strip to it. For this ribber, I used a brand-new metal retaining bar with a brand-new sponge strip.

The machine comes with all minor and major accessories. One exception is a spare needle case: it was so old, that it crumbled as I opened it. The spare needles are inside a regular plastic bag.

Some accessories (1/2 and 2/2 needle pushers) are brand new from new stock.

The 1×1 needle pusher is also a handy tool but it is included with te main bed (Knitting machine).

All other accessories came with the machine but they are still in great shape.

Watch the tests on full bed in my video. I knitted 1×1 ribbing on every other needle on the bed and on the ribber. Thus, to check all ribber needles, I knitted two combinations of those needles to ensure I knitted in all needles. All stitches formed nicely! Thus, all needles, their latches, and the retaining/sponge bar functioned well.

The connecting arm is in great shape. All brushes are intact.

The ribber carriage is also in great shape and all buttons and levers move freely.

I will include the yarns I used to test this machine with the purchase so the next owner will start familiarizing themselves with this machine with the proven threads. These turns turned out to be pretty staticky. On the small swatch (narrow scarf, olive green color), the static was so strong that I could even feel it on my legs as I was knitting the long panel. On the large piece (olive green hat) the status was even stronger but the machine handled it very well: no grinding noise and no problems with tension. I did not use wax with the olive green yarn.

An original cardboard box for the ribber will NOT be included. I will, however, put the ribber into a cardboard box and wrap the accessories in bubble wrap.

Ribber cast-on combs are in great condition. If the wire does not go inside the holes, just rotate it a bit and it will slide in.

Brother punch-card knitting machines: quick reference

All Brother punch-card knitting machines have 200 needles. Except for the Brother KH260 model, all other punch-card Brother knitting machines are standard gauge (4.5 mm distance between needles).

Below is a summary of which punchcards were released for specific machines. Keep in mind that all these cards are interchangeable.

Miscellaneous
Card Set, letter
Standard-gauge machines
Brother KH830-836D
Brother KH840G
Brother KH860,881J
Brother KH890,891M
Brother KH864/868S
KnitKingKK93/KH893R
Bulky-gauge machines
Brother KH260P
Miscalleneous
Garter CarriageB-KG
Ribbers

Needle positions for Brother and KnitKing knitting machines.

Machines/Ribbers Model numbers
Needle Positions

12-stitch punchcard machines
KH800, KH801ABCDIDIIE

24-stitch punchcard machines
Bulky: KH260
Standard: KH810, KH811, KH820, KH821, KH830, KH831, KH836, KH840, KH850, KH851, KH860, KH864, KH871, KH881, KH890, KH891, KH893, KH894


A


B


D


E

Ribbers matching the Brother and KnitKing punchcard knitting machines
KR810, KR830, KR840, KR850, KR890, KR900, RK900ABDE
A – non-working position
B – standard working position
D, DI, DII – patterning positions
E – holding position

More summary information on punchcard knitting machines is coming up.

Brother KR830 refurbished in May 2024

Brother KR830 ribbing attachment is typically used with Brother Knitting machines, with model numbers KH8XX and KH9xx. To learn more about the pros and cons of the Brother KR830 ribber, refer to my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia.

This article is dedicated to a specific ribbing attachment, serviced and tested in May 2024 for Mercedes.

The machine was cleaned, all needles were inspected and then tested by knitting a 1×1 ribbing on the full bed. I did it in two different needle configurations to ensure I tested all needles. I also used two different yarns. Watch a video of all my tests.

I used my own Brother machine to test the ribber and to set up an optimum distance from the main bed.

You will need to do it on your own machine. I like this video, which explains really well how to do it.

The levers, brackets, knobs and buttons on the ribber and on the carriage move really well.

The ribber will come with all the accessories mentioned in the manual:

A hard copy of the manual (in English) will be included as well.

The ribber managed two different yarns (smooth and fuzzy) wonderfully. Again, refer to the video of all my tests. Just make sure you establish the correct distance between the ribber and the main bed as well as use the correct yarn tension. additionally do not forget to oil your machine and maybe even wax the yarn if you experience static or hear grinding sounds of your ribber.

When I tested the ribber, the last 3-5 needles sometimes were left in the non-working position. I did that so I could insert the wire hangers. You will see in my video that if I did not have any space to the side of the knitted panel, it would be hard to insert these changes. And they are absolutely needed to create neat edges and to ensure the yarn does not hang on the pegs.

The carriage slides very smoothly across the ribber. If you start knitting and the carriage is not moving smoothly, check the distance between the ribber and the machine, check if the connecting arm is attached correctly, wax your yarn, and decrease the tension of the yarn.

The ribber will be packed in the original cardboard packaging with the original Styrofoam inserts. They are in pretty rough shape (a bit dirty) but they still do a good job protecting the ribber and the parts.

Now about imperfections:

  • The hard copy of the manual shows some discoloration. But the pages are not damaged and the text is still clear.
  • Some of the barrel weights have cracks but it does not affect their functioning.
  • There might be some spots and staining on the plastic of the ribber. I typically do not rub too much on the plastic to remove the dirt spots because I do not want to damage the old brittle plastic by excessive rubbing. Some scratches are present too. None of this affects the functioning of the ribber.
  • I greased and lubed all the parts so you will see some residual freeze/lubricant remaining.
  • Cast-on combs have some minor rust spots but it does not affect their functioning.

I enjoyed working with this ribber! Hope you will too! Happy Knitting!

Steps I take when cleaning and servicing flat-bed metal knitting machines.

.. this article is a constant work in progress as I collect more information and personal experience…

… Please, read the whole article first before proceeding.

Abbreviations used below:

  • KM = knitting machine

If you purchased your KM serviced from a reputable seller, you can this post and go straight to the post where I recommend the very first steps/tests with your new KM.

If you were not as lucky and got a machine that still needs TLC, below are the steps you can follow. A lot of new machine knitters get a machine from friends and relatives or just find one on a garage sale and feel very overwhelmed. Well, I hope the steps below will help you to guide your approach to cleaning and testing your KM.

First inspection, cleaning, and servicing steps:

  1. Check against the manual if all parts are present. (If your KM did not come with a hard copy of the manual, search its model number and you will easily find a free PDF file of the manual). The most critical ones are a carriage and a sinker, they are a MUST-HAVE. The secondary is a tension mast (I managed to knit on a machine by just holding the yarn in my hand and creating tension by hand, but this is far from ideal but doable if you have to.). Also nice to have are claw weights. If others are missing, you can probably manage to knit without them. If the major parts are missing, search on the Internet to purchase them and while they are arriving, work on the steps below.
  2. Clean/wipe the visible dirt from all parts.
  3. Remove the retaining bar (metal strip sitting on top of the needles). Push it on the side until the other end shows up and then pull completely out. The manual should mention the retaining bar in the section about needle replacement. If you have a long-tail brush, insert it into the channel for the retaining bar and clean the gunk out of there. DO NOT RUN THE CARRIAGE ON THE NEEDLE BED UNTIL YOU INSERT A RETAINING BAR WITH THE NEW SPONGE BAR. I have a separate blog post dedicated to the retaining and sponge bars and how to clean/refurbish/restore them.
  4. After the sponge bar is out, remove all needles, clean/wipe them, and inspect. I visually inspect if there is deep rust (if there is just shallow rust – I gently polish the needles with fine sand-paper), and obvious bends. Wipe all the needles while inspecting them. Check if the latches move freely back and forth and do not stick (sticky latches can lead to incorrectly formed stitches, especially to tucked stitches).
  5. Vacuum the needle bed from the top (simply run the narrowest attachment your vacuum has over the needle bed). If you are brave, and if the machine has them, unscrew the top plastic panels, detach all the plastic components from the machine’s front panel, and vacuum underneath.
  6. If are you even braver, remove the plastic end-caps and vacuum from the sides as well. But: if the machine is clean under those long front panels, you probably don’t need to remove the end caps, which is good news because they are kind of a pain to deal with.
  7. While the panels are out of the way, check if the punchcard reading mechanism moves freely. Often those gunk-up too (or freeze simply due to time) and need to be cleaned. There are video resources available online on how to clean the punchcard reading mechanism. However, I do not recommend disassembling the punchcard mechanism completely without trying less drastic measures (like simply spraying with Kroil oil and cleaning with wipes and Q-tips). It is often not even needed to go that deep and the error of assembling those intricate mechanisms back happens quite often.
  8. Then check if the buttons on the carriage move freely (middle button and tuck/part buttons). Those often get stuck as well. Kroil Oil will take care of that: spray the Kroil oil over the frozen parts and try to jiggle them every several hours. Reapply Kroil oil as needed.
  9. Check the undercarriage for visible lint, dust, dirt, etc. Clean with Q-tips if needed. If the carriage is very dirty, use the UP lubricant/cleaner for a faster (but significantly smellier process). Make sure all levers on the undercarriage move symmetrically when you press the buttons on the carriage. Move the levers with your finger or a tool and ensure they move freely and snap back to the original positions without lag.
  10. Inspect and clean the sinker plate. Often yarn is caught
  11. Insert back all the freshly inspected and cleaned needles.
  12. Insert a refurbished or new retaining bar with the new sponge. (Read my other blog post on how to clean/refurbish/restore them.) I will soon have some sponges and complete retaining bars in my store. Make sure the retaining bar is inserted correctly (with the spongy part touching the needles and the retaining bar being on TOP of the needles.)
  13. Put together all large plastic pieces (covers, boxes, and lids) if you removed them for cleaning.
  14. Place the carriage onto the needle bed.
  15. Attach the sinker plate according to the instructions.

Once you are satisfied with all the cleaning, you can start testing your machine. Please read the first tests I do for my freshly-refurbished knitting machines in my other article.

Retaining bar vs knitting machine model chart

The table below lists the lengths and widths of various knitting machines I measured myself. Use this table as a reference to ensure you purchase the correct retaining bar for your machine.


Model
Retaining bar
materialsponge?length, inch/cmwidth, inch/mm
Brother KH500metalyes41/1040.375/10-10.5
Brother KH551metalyes41/1040.375/10-10.5
Brother KH552metalyes41/1040.5/11-11.5
Brother KH581metalyes41/1040.5/11-11.5
Brother KH585metalyes41/1040.5/11-11.5
Brother KH588metalyes41/1040.5/11-11.5
Brother (Genie) 710metalyes41/1040.5/11-11.5
Brother KH800metalyes41/1040.5/11-11.5
Brother KR810 ribberplasticno
Brother KR830 ribberplasticno
Brother KR850
ribber
plasticno
Silver Reed SK120metalyes42/1095 mm/0.2 inch

First steps of testing new-to-you ribber.

If you just purchased or snatched a ribbing attachment to your knitting machine, I can imagine how happy you are!

If your ribber came to you fully serviced and tested, you still need to learn yourself how to use it and attach to you machine. So, follow the steps below. However, if your ribber came to you AS IS, follow the steps outlined in my other article on how to clean and service it before you start the knitting tests.

  1. The first most important step is attaching your ribber to the main knitting machine bed. Your ribber manual is the best source for this. If you are a visual learner, there are plenty of youtube video on how to do it for your particular ribber.
  2. Before you even attach the ribber carriage, main carriage and the connecting arm together, you ABSOLUTELY have to make sure the distance between the main and ribber bed is the optimum. Too wide or too narrow distance between the beds will cause all kinds of problems: yarn is not latching onto the needles, resulting in dropped stitches, grinding noise, difficulties to move the carriage, bent latches, etc. for Brother knitting machines, the best manual that explains how to do it is for the Brother KR810 ribber (available online, just Google it). There are also a lot of YouTube resources on how to establish the optimum distance.
  3. Check all magnets on connecting arm and carriages to make sure nothing got stuck to them.
  4. Once you are satisfied with the distance, make sure the connecting arm is attached to the main carriage properly. (Poorly attached connecting arm will manifest itself in dropped stitches, grinding noise, difficulties in moving in one or both directions, damaged needles or needle latches). Follow manual instructions to the dot. Once you attached the connecting arm to the main carriage, run through the needles (no yarn) to make sure nothing is touching the connecting arm. Start with 20-30 needles and if everything is good, add another portion of 20-30 needles, and so on.
  5. Attach the ribber carriage (unless you have a vintage, earlier model, of ribber, in which case you don’t need to do that) to the connecting arm/main carriage assembly. Again, follow instruction to the dot. Then run again the carriage assembly through just the ribber needles. For this purpose, only bring 20-30 needles to working position and run the carriages through. If everything seems smooth, add another section of 20-30 needles, and so on.
  6. Start knitting on a small swatch. Start with 1×1 rib on every other needle. (When setting up the ribber and knitting the first cast-on rows, it is extremely important to move the needles to the B working position as close as possible. Otherwise the carriage might bend the latches.) Use very thin yarn at first. Preferably the yarn that is no prone to static. (Quick side note on how to check the static of the yarn: bring a small strand of yarn to the crack between the beds and if the yarn sticks to one of the beds, yep, you probably have static. Change the yarn or apply wax). Do not use cotton yarns. Thin smooth acrylic yarn should work. Starting with the very thin and smooth yarn will prevent you from having problems related to JUST yarn: static, tension, friction if yarn has texture. (Please, do not think that knitting swatch is a waste of your yarn or time. There are several learning opportunities. For example, you will also learn how to choose the right tension for the yarn you chose, practice transferring the stitches (by hand or using a transfer carriage), whether there is static with this yarn, etc.) Follow the cast-on and knit instructions to the dot. Knitting just a small swatch will let you 1) check whether all buttons and functions move freely on the ribber carriage and 2) master the cast-on procedure.
  7. Knit on a full bed using the yarn you had success on with the swatch. Start with the 1×1 rib on every other needle. I do not recommend knitting on ALL needles on the ribber – leave 1-3 on each end in non-working position. It will be easier to attach wire-weight-hangers and will also ensure you all stitches are knitted before the carriages returns in the opposite direction. Knitting on the full bed will show you whether all needles function well (If a needle is bend, misaligned, or has a sticky latch, stitches will not form properly. You might also see dropped stitches, tucked-stitches or lots of pull stitches. ) And also discover (if any) additional problems with the setup. (All minor problems not seeing while knitting the swatch might manifest in a full bed in a more pronounced way). The panels knitted on the full bed during your tests can be converted to hats (knit 100-120 rows for one-layered hat with a brim and 200+ rows for a double-layered hat). During your tests on a full bed you’ll also learn how to hang and rehang the wire-hangers with weights to ensure nice edges, how to recognize dropped stitches, how to catch dropped stitches on the very ends of the panel and what to do to prevent them, etc. Knitting on a full bed when you are just starting is a whole new game.

Let me know how the first test went!