Knitting Machine

Brother KR230 ribber tested on Brother KH230 knitting machine

Brother KR230 ribbing attachment works with only one knitting machine: 9 mm -gauge (bulky) Brother KH230.

This post is dedicated to the KR230 ribber I refurbished in my shop.

To learn about the overall pros and cons of Brother KR230 ribbers, refer to my other blog post in my Knitting machine Encyclopedia.

The ribber came without a lot of accessories but I was able to collect most important ones.

Thus, all major accessories will be included with the ribber with the exception of:

yard tension stand: since the machine I tested did not have the original (to the KH230) tension rod but a generic Brother tension rod, the yarn tension stand was unnecessary. But if you are buying JUST the ribber from me, and your Brother KH230 has the original tension mast, contact me, and I might be able to source the original yarn tension stand for you. I am actually not quite sure why the ribber came with this special yarn tension stand – maybe to create a right angle for the tension mast because it is quite unique and is unlike any other Brother knitting machine tension masts.
cast on thread: any silky and strong yarn will work
case for the needles
Knit leader setting plates: the machine did not come with those. Typically, new knitters new to machine knitting rarely use the knit leader and as a result, these parts get misplaced. If you advance enough to use KH230/KR230 setup with knit leader, these setting plates are available online for a reasonable cost.
hard copy of the ribber will not be included, but it can be found online. Keep in mind that the manual is written pretty poorly with typos.

I cleaned the needle bed, and side brackets. I cleaned and inspected all needles individually. Needles in good condition but with some minor rust were polished until they are smooth to touch (however, some discoloration might still be visible but it does not affect the needle functioning). I inspected the carriage and the connecting arm thoroughly too and replaced some broken plastic parts in it.

I included a brand new retaining bar with a brand new sponge.

I am also including new table clamps for the ribber (not shown). All tests were done with these table clamps (incorrect table clamps can create an incorrect angle between the main and the ribber beds and cause misalignment and, as a result, missed/dropped stitches).

The cast on combs that came with the ribber are in great shape.

I also sourced out completely new setting plates for KR230. Notice that the setting plates are asymmetric, unlike settings plates for all other ribbers.

One feature that I like about the KR230 ribber is that there are markings on the needle bed for the working position (position B) of the needles.

I serviced and oiled the connecting arm to ensure that the wheel inside it moved freely as it is responsible for the indicator arros as well as for lifting the pressers to assist with pushing the stitches down.

To ensure all needles knit properly as well as other are no hidden problems, I knitted on 20-30 needles as well as on all neeldees using several different yarns: acrylic sport-weight yarn, double-thread worsted-thickness acrylic-wool blend yarn, and a mohair-blend with Lurex thread in it. The machine handled all the yarns like a champ!

These tests are shown in my video. Prior to the tests, I made sure the distance between the needlebeds was adjusted to the optimum to ensure no missing stitches during the cast one and further one.

Below are the finished projects made from the panels knitted on Brother KH230/KR230 setup using the two out of three yarns I mentioned above.

Let me know what you think.

The ribber does not come with its original packaging. It will very likely be shipped in two different packages – long one for the needle bed and a smaller one (in size) for all other parts.

Below are the pros and cons of the Brother KR230 ribber I serviced in my shop (to read overall pros and cons of Brother KR230 ribber, refer to my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia):

PROS:

easy to set up
takes a variety of yarns (thickness- and texture-wise)
comes with all major accessories

CONS:

some minor accessories are missing (see above); however, their absence does not affect the functioning of the ribber.
The part of the side bracket that gets inserted into the machine on the left-hand side was a bit bent and I straightened it. (The top surface of that section has scratches as a result of my strainitening it). The series of pictures below shows that bracket and that area from different angles. Again, it did not affect setting up the machine but the bracket needs to be pushed in with a bit more force than the other one. Just something to keep in mind when connecting the ribber to the main bed.

As you can see, I invested a lot of both time and money into this ribber to ensure it has all accessories and that it functions well before I pass it on to other knitting machine enthusiasts.

Brother KH260 knitting machine serviced in August 2024

Brother KH260 is a bulky (9 mm gauge) knitting machine with 114 needles. Read about this model, as well as the pros and cons, in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. All information below is about a specific machine service in my shop in August 2024.

I cleaned and inspected the machine. I removed, cleaned, and inspected all needles. The needles and the patterning (including the punch card reader) were inspected with various cards. All of these features were also tested on all needles and with various cards. Watch the video of these tests here. This machine was also tested with a matching ribber, Brother KR260. watch the video of those tests here. The machine behaved very well during all those tests by itself and without the ribber. It was easy to adjust the proper distance between the machine and the ribber, which implies no warping of the metal beds.

The rubber wheels on the sinker plate are in great condition. The wheels for tuck-knitting move freely.

The machine will come with all major accessories: sinker plate, cast-on combs (short and long ones, attached together by the metal clip), tension mast (not shown in the picture above – forgot to include it, sorry) and a detachable row counter.

I also replaced the retaining bar: I inserted a completely new retaining bar + sponge bar (typically, I attach a new sponge to the existing retaining bar).

The machine will come with most minor accessories, including a hard copy of the manual (which is in decent condition).

The only accessories that are included are the cast-on thread (you can use any strong, silky yarn/thread) and a punchcard holder pin (all the tests in the video were done without that pin and all worked great).

Table clamps, stitch-measure scales, punchcards, and claw weights are brand new, from the new stock.

All minor accessories fit inside the toolbox.

The carriage lock is not the original (the machine did not come with one). I attached the machine with the carriage lock from the ribber (because I left the setting plates in after testing the ribber). But I am including a white plastic replacement carriage lock in case the machine is sold in the future without the ribber.

Since the machine came without the punch cards, I had to purchase them. The punchcard set included is marked with the letter P (as it is supposed to be for the KH260 models) but it is not an original set. It is brand new but the paper/plastic is a bit thinner than the original set. However, I checked and the card corresponds to those in the manual.

The machine came with the wax and oil in decent condition. Thus, those will be included as well. The mast still contains a piece of wax I used when I tested the machine (some yarn was a bit more staticky than the other but only when tested with the ribber).

The machine originally came without the carriage. I have included a substitute carriage (which was fully serviced and tested) this is why the color is a bit different from the main bed.

When selecting needles, make sure that the needle buds are as close to the marked B position as possible otherwise the carriage might have trouble. It is true for all knitting machines but bulky machines are especially “sensitive” to misaligned needles probably because the needle buds are so much bigger.

A couple of other very individual things for this machine: if the numbers in the row counter do not get triggered reliably, two things can be done. 1. Gently shift the plastic cover on which the row counter sits towards you. Even a little bit of movement will shift the row counter enough to make it more reliable. I installed it properly but the top cover can shift during the shipping/transport a little bit, enough to increase the distance between the tripper on the carriage and the row counter lever. 2. Pass the carriage slowly next to the row counter. If the carriage is moved quickly, the row counter is still triggered but the number does not increase. I thought it was the problem with the row counter, but I tried several. The best thing that works is to slow down around the row counter. The slower motion triggers it better so the number changes.

Imperfections:

the end caps have minor cracks. Those are super minor – I’ve seen machines in much worse conditions.

the lid and the case have some staining from scotch tape. I will be washing them off with soap and water but not with strong solvents (as it might severely damage the coating). Sometimes some especially sticky residues remain.

The case and the lid have minor scratches. Below is an example of the biggest one. Other minor scratches are not shown.

Brother KH860 knitting machine cleaned, serviced and tested in my shop in August 2024

Brother KH860 is a standard-gauge knitting machine with punchcard reading capabilities to select needles according to the pattern of the punchcard. Brother KH860 is a wonderful machine. Read more about its pros and cons in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. This blog entry is dedicated to a particular Brother KH860 knitting machine, cleaned, serviced, and tested in my shop in August 2024.

The machine was cleaned, all needles were removed and inspected for bends, faulty latches, and sticky latches…. The needles were cleaned, and polished where needed. The faulty ones were replaced with the new stock.

The sponge in the retaining bar was replaced. The machine was cleaned on the inside (without any major disassembling: I removed the end caps and the top plastic panel). The carriage was deep cleaned. All buttons and levers on the carriage move freely. The sinker plate was also cleaned and inspected. The tuck wheels move well. The brushes are in good shape.

Additionally, I tested the patterning (AKA needle selection) as well as the needle-in-action while knitting on the full bed. The video of these tests is here. The full bed tests included stockinet, tuck- and slip-stitches. I did not test weaving and lace.

I typically like making something when I test these machines just to be able to show something from these tests. And if it is a wearable item, I donate it to charity. So, I converted the knitted fabric into a beret and a Christmas gift bag.

The lace carriage was not tested but all buttons and levers move freely. It is a very simple carriage and extensive testing is typically not needed.

Typically, I use card #1 for patterned tests. It is the card where every other needle (EON) is selected and the position of these EON needles alternates every row. In this case, any mispatterning will be immediately visible. Check out the video: all stitches formed beautifully. Also, for fair isle tests, I use very contrasting yarns where ANY mispatterning will be immediately noticeable.

The machine handles two kinds of yarn types very nicely (one an acrylic blend and 100% acrylic) and no static formed.

Some sources claim that Brother KH860 typically does not come with built-in garter carriage rails. Well, this is already the third KH860 that I came across that had them. Built-in garter carriage rails are great for future accessorization with a Garter carriage.

The machine had all major accessories (I only had to get cast-on combs from my stash – they are shown below in a disassembled state): lace carriage, extension rails, sinker plate, tension mast and of course the main carriage. They all fit into the lid of the case.

The machine came to me with very few minor accessories but I was able to find and collect the replacements.

The claw weights, transfer tools (with 2×1, 3×1, and 2×3 pegs), table clamps, set of motif cams, and the needle indicator strip are all new from the old and new stocks (yeah, new stock is probably a knock-off but serves the purpose).

The missing accessories are wax (it was so old it crumbled), a punchcard holder (a rod that is inserted into the small hole behind the punchcard reader) a tapestry needle (any needle will work – I like plastic needles), oil (get a gun oil on Amazon), and a cast-on thread (I use a strong silky thread or a thin acrylic yarn as my cast-on three).

The absence of these accessories did not affect the functioning of the machine. For example, all the tests shown in my video were performed without them: I did not need to insert a punchcard holder rod into the slot and the punchcards advanced without problems.

The punchcard set that came with this machine is not the original set. The original cards should have been marked with the letter J. Those included with this machine will be marked with the letter S. These cards correspond to those in the manual for the KH868 knitting machine (available for free here).

The hard copy of the manual for the KH860 model will also not be included with this machine but it is available online for free here.

Now about imperfections:

Crack on the plastic near the knob for the punchcard reader. Although cosmetically not pleasing, it did not affect the functioning of the machine and/or the punchcard reader.

2. Because of the garter carriage rails and the carriage stoppers on each end of the needlebed, the carriage gets a bit stuck when pulled too far to the right or to the left (see the last couple of minutes of the video). It is just something that you’ll need to get used to.

3. The lid and the case have some minor stains, scratches, and scruffs. Below are the pictures of some of them. Despite these minor cosmetic imperfections, the overall states of the case and the lid are pretty good. One of the best ones I’ve seen.

Happy Knitting!

Brother punch-card knitting machines: quick reference

All Brother punch-card knitting machines have 200 needles. Except for the Brother KH260 model, all other punch-card Brother knitting machines are standard gauge (4.5 mm distance between needles).

Below is a summary of which punchcards were released for specific machines. Keep in mind that all these cards are interchangeable.

Standard-gauge machines
Miscellaneous	Card Set, letter
Brother KH830-836	D
Brother KH840	G
Brother KH860,881	J
Brother KH890,891	M
Brother KH864/868	S
KnitKingKK93/KH893	R
Bulky-gauge machines
Brother KH260	P
Miscalleneous
Garter Carriage	B-KG
Ribbers

Needle positions for Brother and KnitKing knitting machines.

12-stitch punchcard machines
Machines/Ribbers Model numbers	Needle Positions
KH800, KH801	A	B	C	DI	DII	E
24-stitch punchcard machines
Bulky: KH260 Standard: KH810, KH811, KH820, KH821, KH830, KH831, KH836, KH840, KH850, KH851, KH860, KH864, KH871, KH881, KH890, KH891, KH893, KH894	A	B		D		E
Ribbers matching the Brother and KnitKing punchcard knitting machines
KR810, KR830, KR840, KR850, KR890, KR900, RK900	A	B		D		E

A – non-working position
B – standard working position
D, DI, DII – patterning positions
E – holding position

More summary information on punchcard knitting machines is coming up.

Brother KH881 serviced and tested in July 2024

Brother KH881 is a standard-gauge knitting machine with 200 needles and a built-in knit leader. Read more about the pros and cons of the Brother KH881 knitting machine model in a separate blog post. This post is specifically about Brother KH881 serviced and fully tested in my shop in July 2024.

Brother KH881 came to me without a lot of accessories and even without a carriage. I found a replacement carriage and all minor missing accessories.

Most of the other major accessories were present with the machine and almost all accessories will be included.

The still missing minor accessories are:

oil: it was old and I had to toss it away (use a Gun oil available on Amazon instead)
cast-on thread (you can use any silky and strong yarn)
the wax is technically not included but there was a piece still attached to the tension mast and it worked well while I knitted. I will include the plastic case for the wax.
A punchcard holder pin is also not included. All the tests shown in my video for this machine were performed without this rod.

These minor accessories are stored in a special toolbox.

The toolbox sits on the needle bed when the machine is stored away.

All major accessories are included as well: lace carriage, tension mast, knit leader sheet guides, row counter, cast-on combs, and extension rails. The major accessories fit nicely into the lid. The lace carriage was not tested but it is much simpler than the main carriage, so no problems are anticipated and I checked that all buttons move freely.

For the knit leader, the only missing accessory is a felt pen (it didn’t write – too old, so I also tossed it away). I read in the online forums that washable Crayola markers work as well as whiteboard markers. To remove, machine knitters advise to use a gum eraser. Depending on the pen, rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab works well too.

The binding wire was originally missing but I included a binding wire from a set from the KL116 knit leader.

The wire I included is a bit longer than the wire that came with KH881. So I bent it to fit into the sheet case. It is very easy to unbend it. The purpose of this wire is to temporarily “seam” the knitted panels together.

So, the punchcard set is brand new – never used. It contains 20 cards, 6 of which are for lace knitting. The machine will come with the original hard copy of the knit leader manual and the hard copy of the instruction manual as well.

THE WORK DONE ON THIS MACHINE:

The machine was deeply cleaned, all needles were inspected, and faulty needles were replaced. The sponge it replaced in the retaining bar. This machine was given a lot of TLC, in particular to the punch card reader and the needle replacement mechanism to ensure they function well. I then ran tests on a full bed to again ensure needle selection on the full bed and that all needles form stitches as they are supposed to.

The knit leader was not tested but I checked and all the buttons and levers move freely and advance when triggered.

Now about the tests:

I tried 4 different yarns on this machine: one blend, and three acrylic yarns. The thicknesses varied too. The machine formed stitches wonderfully with all these yarns. I knitted on a full bed using tuck-stitch, slip-stitch, and fair isle. I used card #1 and other cards (with a 24-stitch repeat pattern) too. I like using card#1 (which has a 2-stitch repeat pattern and thus, every other needle is selected) because it immediately shows incorrectly selected needles. Additionally, any errors will be shown on the fabric (especially in Fair Isle).

Watch the full video of these tests.

There was only one hick-up during these tests. When I was knitting tuck-stitch with the 2-stitch repeat pattern (using card #1), I did not notice right away that in one place, one needle is selected incorrectly. There was a 3-needle cluster (around left-hand side needle #20) that I did not catch.

Three-needle cluster due to the faulty (and not correctly selected) needle during the tuck-stitch knitting on the full bed.

… And the knitted fabric did not show this flaw (tuck stitch hides the errors well – see the picture below).

Even though the needle was NOT selected correctly around needle #20, the error did not translate in the pattern: all stitches look the same.

So, when I started knitting fair-isle with the same punchcard and 2-stitch repeat pattern, the same needle was not being selected correctly.

… But this time, I was able to clearly see the incorrectly formed stitches (due to the color contrast of the two yarns).

The reason for mispatterning was a bent needle: the end of the needle that gets pushed by the selection plates was out of place due to this bent. After the faulty needle was replaced, I encountered no more problems with the needle selection.

The top pattern was knitted after the faulty needle was replaced: notice long floats around needle #20 are no longer present.

Below is the image showing how the incorrectly-selected needle manifested itself in the pattern.

Below are the things I made from the panels I knitted while testing this machine with various yarns.

Now about imperfections: they are mostly related to the case (minor stains, scratches, and slight bends). See the pictures below.

Additionally, there were some very minor rust spots on the case, which I covered with a special coating to inhibit the corrosion and to cover it up as well (not shown) These rusty imperfections are not visible.

I hope you will consider this machine for your knitting needs.

Happy Knitting!

Brother KH930 serviced and tested in June 2024

Brother KH930 is a wonderful knitting machine with electronic patterning and needle selection capabilities. Read more about this model in my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia. This post is about the Brother KH930 machine serviced and tested by me in June 2024.

I cleaned the machine. I removed, cleaned, and inspected all needles, and replaced faulty ones. Replaced the sponge in the retaining bar. Assembled a set of accessories (read more on that below).

I then tested the machine on a full bed. I knitted slip- (part), tuck- and fair isle patterns on all 200 needles (to ensure all needles form correct stitches). I used built-in patterns in the machine’s memory. See the video of these tests. All stitches formed wonderfully. The carriage moved very freely.

Lace carriage was not tested but all buttons move freely.

The machine came without most accessories so I put together the set from my stash. So a lot of minor accessories are brand new. All major accessories are included. Some minor accessories are missing.

The missing tools are:

unravel cord (any smooth and strong yarn will do; I often use thin acrylic yarn).
wax for the yarn (but the tension mast came with some wax already attached to it. I’ll pass it on on the mast).
oil (buy gun oil on Amazon instead)
tapestry needle (any needle will work)
latch opening tool (you can substitute it easily with a thin piece of plastic – cut a credit card/grocery rewards card in two triangles and use it instead).
hard copy of the manual (but can be downloaded for free)
stitch book (a pdf copy is available for free)
design paper (it is simply a large graph paper – any graph paper will work if you want to draw your own pattern).

None of the missing minor accessories are critical. The machine can fully function and be used without them.

A brand new set of needle transfer tools and selection ruler as well as brand new claw weights are included. The machine also came without a lid. The case lid that will come with this machine is from a KnitKing CompuKnit III model (which is the same machine). So, please, do not be confused about the name when you see it on the lid.

The other minor imperfections of the machine are:

The tension mast has very minor rust spots.

There is very minor rust on the extension rails.

The case has some minor bumps, scratches, stains and one medium-size dent. The case itself has also lots of minor scratches and some stains (too many to show).

The handle on the main carriage has a hole – probably the machine was attached to the motor by the previous owner. The tension dial has an indent between numbers 5 and 6.

None of these minor flaws affected the working of the machine. Do not wait – purchase this hard-working beauty before it is gone!

First steps of testing and learning a new-to-you knitting machine.

…this post is a collection of tests and tricks I use when I test knitting machines I refurbish. It is a continuous work in progress as I learn more about various knitting machines.

Preparation for the knitting:

After you have fully serviced your machine (read the list of steps I follow in here – sponge bar section is especially important), place the carriage onto the need bed (while ALL needles are in non-working position A). and move it across the needle bed (without the sinker plate attached). Ensure that the carriage runs smoothly on the needle bed. Apply oil if necessary according to the instructions if you feel that your machine does NOT run smoothly. Also, check the contact points (between the carriage and the needle bed) for gunks/rust/debris since they can contribute not only to poor movement of the carriage but also to static accumulation and other problems down the road.
Attach the sinker plate to the carriage according to the instructions. Run the carriage + sinker across the bed (the needles are still in non-working position A).
Using a 1×1 needle selection comb (AKA ruler) move 20-30 needles to the B position (15 needles from the left of the “0” mark and 15 needles to the right). You will have every-other-needle in the B position. Run the carriage over the needles, first, without the sinker plate. You will see how the needles move while you run the carriage. If everything goes well, run the carriage with the sinker plate attached to the carriage.
Move the remaining needles to B position. You will now have 30 needles next to each other, all in B position. Run the carriage and then carraige+sinker over these needles. Watch the needles move freely. If the needles move freely with only the carriage but not with the carriage+sinker, you might have a damaged sinker plate.
If steps 1-4 did not give you any trouble, you are ready to knit your first swatch.

Knitting a first swatch:

Review the manual which yarn is best with your machine. When choosing yarn for your first swatch, stay on the thinner side – we want to have our first knitting steps go smoothly and not go wrong because of the poor yarn choice. Once you learn to know your machine, you will know which yarns it can handle (and what to do so the machine can handle these yarns). For standard machines, I recommend sock-yarn-thickness and even thinner, for bulky and medium gauge machines – use sport-weight yarn.
If your yarn came in a cone or a cake – you can skip this step. If your yarn is in a skein or a ball, you need to use a yarn winder to rewind your yarn into a cake or onto a cone. The reason is that during machine knitting you want as even yarn tension as possible.
Bring 20-30 needles upfront and select every other needle (move them to the working position B). Run the carriage back and forth to even out the needles.
Cast-on: I recommend using a cast-on method with a cast-on comb. Most Brother knitting machines have cast-on combs. Silver/Silver Reed/Studio cast-on combs do not typically come with cast-on combs. Cast-on combs can be purchased online. Or you can use an e-wrap cast-on method. Refer to the instruction manual of your machine for the recommended cast-on method.
Once the first initial row is knit, knit several rows on every other needle. It will give you a good feel for the yarn thickness, tension and carriage behavior. Adjust tension as needed. The carriage needs to run smoothly.
Bring the remaining needles to the working position. Increase the number on the tension dial. On all needles, the yarn tension needs to be looser than on every other needle. Knit several rows.

If all these tests are successful, you can now start experimenting with patterning as well as knitting on a full bed.

Brother KH800 knitting machine, serviced and tested in March 2024

Brother KH800 knitting machine

$625 machine + $110 shipping (with insurance)

$735.00

Click here to purchase.

This blog is about a specific Brother KH800 knitting machine, which I cleaned, serviced, and tested in March 2024.

To learn about the Brother KH800 model, with all its pros and cons, read my Knitting Machine Encyclopedia.

All needles were removed, cleaned, serviced, and inspected. The sponge in the retaining bar was replaced. The case and the lid were wiped thoroughly but I did not subject the case and the lid to excessive rubbing to remove all staining. So some stains remain. The same applies to the plastic panel: I was able to remove most of the dirt and grime but some minor staining might still be visible.

I installed new weaving brushes (it is typically a pain in the butt to do it – so take good care of them). The old ones completely fell apart. They are not black as the original ones but white with strong bristles.

The machine will come with all major accessories (which fit inside the knitting machine case lid):

extension rails (to accommodate the lace carriage if you are using one or to accommodate the main carriage when you are knitting on the full bed)
tension mast
lace carriage
big and small cast on combs

Most critical minor accessories are included too:

metal 1×1 needle pusher
claw weights (greenish. like the machine)
latch and transfer tools as well as crochet needle
set of 3 spare needles
carriage lock
puncher
table clamps
set lever (also known as ratchet tool)
cleaning hand brush (good for cleaning carriage and removing some lint between the needles)
two carriage handles (one for the main carriage and one for the lace carriage)
row counter (I specifically looked for a greenish row counter to match the machine)

The minor accessories that are NOT included are marked below. These minor accessories do not affect the functioning of the machine. But read below about the punch and pattern cards.

The parafin is only needed for the yarns that are prone to static. The pen is actually for the knit leader and not for the machine. The greaze was old and I tossed it away. Any gun oil will work to service this machine. Any strong thin yarn can serve as a cast-on or waste-yarn thread.

All minor advisories are stored inside the built-in box with the lid.

The handles for both carriage are screw on and are also stored in this storage box. The carriage moves very smoothly on the needlebed.

The machine did not come with the original hard copy of the manual. It can still be found online for free. I can include a printed copy that came with this machine – just let me know but it might add to the weight (1-2 lbs) of the shipping package.

Even though the original pattern and punchcards are missing, it is very easy to make your own cards. I made a video on how to do it and described it in another blog. Follow the links for free pdf-files for the blank and pre-patterned cards. In my video, I printed out and used those cards.

Also, the cards are very easily to make (punch). Simply insert the cut-out of a new card into the punchcard reader and punch the wholes either using the punch provided or using a simple pencil. I describe it in my other blog and show it in my video as well.

The machine can be easily attached to a knit leader using the triangular tripper and the rod above it. Read on the manual of a specific knit leader on how to attach the machine to it.

I knitted several swatches (tuck, slip, stockinet and fair isle) on this machine to ensure the carriage functions properly. I also knitted on the full bed to ensure all needles form proper stitches and that the patterning mechanism works well on the whole needlebed. Watch the video of all tests. The picture below shows the tuck-stitch fabric knitted during these tests.

Check out my blog and a video (…coming soon) on the fair isle patterning on this machine. It was quite interesting.

The panel I knitted during all these tests was converted to this 3-in-1 berett/cowl/hood shown below.

Turned out pretty good!!

Now about imperfections:

The most obvious imperfection is the scratches on the main carriage. They seem to be just cosmetic and did not affect the functioning of the machine.

All other impefections are also cosmetic. Like some minor dents and scratches on the lid and the case (not shown).

Steps I take when cleaning and servicing flat-bed metal knitting machines.

.. this article is a constant work in progress as I collect more information and personal experience… LAST UPDATE: March 2026

… Please, read the whole article first before proceeding.

Abbreviations used below:

KM = knitting machine

If you purchased your KM serviced from a reputable seller, you can this post and go straight to the post where I recommend the very first steps/tests with your new KM.

If you were not as lucky and got a machine that still needs TLC, below are the steps you can follow. A lot of new machine knitters get a machine from friends and relatives or just find one at a garage sale and feel very overwhelmed. Well, I hope the steps below will help you to guide your approach to cleaning and testing your KM.

First inspection, cleaning, and servicing steps:

Check against the manual if all parts are present. (If your KM did not come with a hard copy of the manual, search its model number, and you will easily find a free PDF file of the manual. The most critical ones are a carriage and a sinker; they are a MUST-HAVE. The secondary is a tension mast (I managed to knit on a machine by just holding the yarn in my hand and creating tension by hand, but this is far from ideal, but doable if you have to). Also nice to have are claw weights. If others are missing, you can probably manage to knit without them. If the major parts are missing, search on the Internet to purchase them and while they are arriving, work on the steps below.
Clean/wipe the visible dirt from all parts.
Remove the retaining bar (metal strip sitting on top of the needles). Push it on the side until the other end shows up, and then pull completely out. The manual should mention the retaining bar in the section about needle replacement. If you have a long-tail brush, insert it into the channel for the retaining bar and clean the gunk out of there. DO NOT RUN THE CARRIAGE ON THE NEEDLE BED UNTIL YOU INSERT A RETAINING BAR WITH THE NEW SPONGE BAR. I have a separate blog post dedicated to the retaining and sponge bars and how to clean/refurbish/restore them.
After the sponge bar is out, remove all needles, clean/wipe them, and inspect. I visually inspect if there is deep rust (if there is just shallow rust – I gently polish the needles with fine sandpaper), and obvious bends. Wipe all the needles while inspecting them. Check if the latches move freely back and forth and do not stick (sticky latches can lead to incorrectly formed stitches, especially to tucked stitches).
Vacuum the needle bed from the top (simply run the narrowest attachment your vacuum has over the needle bed). If you are brave, and if the machine has them, unscrew the top plastic panels, detach all the plastic components from the machine’s front panel, and vacuum underneath.
If you are even braver, remove the plastic end-caps and vacuum from the sides as well. But if the machine is clean under those long front panels, you probably don’t need to remove the end caps, which is good news because they are kind of a pain to deal with.
While the panels are out of the way, check if the punchcard reading mechanism moves freely. Often, those gunk up too (or freeze simply due to time) and need to be cleaned. There are video resources available online on how to clean the punchcard reading mechanism. However, I do not recommend disassembling the punchcard mechanism completely without trying less drastic measures (like simply spraying with Kroil oil and cleaning with wipes and Q-tips). It is often not even needed to go that deep, and the error of assembling those intricate mechanisms back happens quite often.
Then check if the buttons on the carriage move freely (middle button and tuck/part buttons). Those often get stuck as well. Kroil Oil will take care of that: spray the Kroil oil over the frozen parts and try to jiggle them every several hours. Reapply Kroil oil as needed.
Check the undercarriage for visible lint, dust, dirt, etc. Clean with Q-tips if needed. If the carriage is very dirty, use the UP lubricant/cleaner for a faster (but significantly smellier) process. Make sure all levers on the undercarriage move symmetrically when you press the buttons on the carriage. Move the levers with your finger or a tool and ensure they move freely and snap back to the original positions without lag.
Inspect and clean the sinker plate. Often, yarn is caught
Insert back all the freshly inspected and cleaned needles.
Insert a refurbished or new retaining bar with the new sponge. (Read my other blog post on how to clean/refurbish/restore them.) I will soon have some sponges and complete retaining bars in my store. Make sure the retaining bar is inserted correctly (with the spongy part touching the needles and the retaining bar being on TOP of the needles)
Put together all large plastic pieces (covers, boxes, and lids) if you removed them for cleaning.
Place the carriage onto the needle bed.
Attach the sinker plate according to the instructions.

Once you are satisfied with all the cleaning, you can start testing your machine. Please read the first tests I typically subject to my freshly refurbished knitting machines in my other article.

How to make punchcards for Brother KH800 and KH801 knitting machines.

Brother KH800 and KH801 knitting machines have unique designs for needle selection: they accept 12-stitch punchcards that are positioned flat on the special panel on the machine (called “card presser”).

Brother KH800 pattern center with the 12-hole card pressure in the middle.

If your machine came with original punchcards, you are super lucky! If you did not get the punchcards, or you want to make more cards for your own custom patterns, it is very easy to do.

Below are step-by-step instructions. You can also watch a video I made with these steps.

You need to cut a piece of paper, 20.5 x 6.5 cm (8 x 2.5 inches). Regular printer paper will work. Or print this file which shows blank cards for KH800. Another option is to print a standard set of cards (from the file downloaded here) and then punch the holes using the steps I will describe below.

Insert the cut-out punch card into the pattern card cassette holder. The manual describes all the steps of inserting the card really well. The only difference from the manual is that you will have to push the paper through the setting pins.

If your machine comes with a special puncher, you are again lucky. You can now use it to punch your pattern through the holes. If your machine did not come with it, you can use a marker with a relatively thick end. Ideally, find a marker that no longer draws (dried up or broken) so it does not draw on the machine.

Continue punching holes according to your desired pattern.

The holes do not have to be fully complete: they just need to be open enough for the patterning rods to go through upon activation.

Watch in the second half of my video how I tested and ensured that the rods indeed went through.

Happy punching and Happy knitting!

Also, read or watch about the patterning mechanism of Brother KH800/801.