Brother KH260 are wonderful and highly desired machines. They habe 110 needles, spaced 9 mm apart from each other).
This distance and large needles makes this machine “bulky”. Brother KH260 can handle a large variety of thicker yarns, including worsted. I tried double-thrded boucle yarn and it ahndled it well as well. I was especially happy about it because I love textures yarn, especially boucle, but not many machines can handle them.
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What I did on this machine:
- Removed all needles, cleaned them and inspected individually and then during knitting on a full bed.
- Oiled carriage and ensured that all levers and kbod ove frely and do not mis-function during knitting
- Cleaned the bed and gently cleaned the plastic parts
Overall the machine was in good shape before I started cleaning it. The case does not have any major bends/scratches. Only minor ones.
This machine came with all its assesories with some minor exeptions.
The card clips were missing – I cinluded two paris of new ones (small yellow plastic things in the picture below).

The assesories that are missing from the machine and wll not be included are:
- Oil canister. I do not include old oil on purpose. Please, get a fresh/new oil. The recommended by many machine kntiters is Hoppe’s Elite Gun Oil
- No ravel cord is included but any smooth strong yarn can be used.
- Place card holder was missing from the set. As you can see in the video, I was not even using it and the cardreder worked well. However, any straight or bent hand-knitting needles will work. I included one.
- -some manuals state that the machine comes wth 20-count punch card set. The hard copy of the manual that came with this machine lists only 15 cards. Indeed, a set containing only 15 cards came with it.
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All tools fit into a tool box: a buil-tin compartment on the main bed.
This tool box is excellent to store assesories whlie the machine is not in use. The sinker plate, tuck-brushes, punchcard, tension rod and the row counter also fit wonderfully into the lid of the case when not in use.
The machine size is larger than all other single-bed flat-bed machines. The bed is winder and slitly longer.
The machine performed wonderfully with slip, tuck and fair isle patterning on full bed. I did not even have my usual trial/error starts. I did nothave to putz around too much with tension and the right number of hanging weights…. I was very pleased how well everything went.
I used this machine to knit simple stockinet, fair-isle, slip and tuck-stitch patterning. You can see those in my video. Below are the things I made while testing this machine and filming my demo.
Cowl/hoodie from a variegated dark red yarn using slip-stitch. Reversible/double sided.

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Cowl/hoodie with a matching hat. Hoodie was knitted using a self-striping yarn and tuck-stitch patterning. Can be worn as reversible. The hat was knitted using simple stockinet. The ribbing was made by a mock-1×1 ribbing.


Cowl/hoodie knitted using fair isle and custom-made punch card. It can be worn as double-sided/reversible.

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I did not really find a lot of cons for this machine. Maybe simple specifics of the machine which make it to stand out.
So, pros and cons are:
Pros:
+ Carriage (despite being heavy) is still relatively easy to move especially in KC mode (attached to a timing belt)
+ capable of handling thicker and textures (typically challenging) yarns
+ accessories, including needles, are still easy to find.
+ straightforward manual
+ because of the usage of thicker yarn, creates a texture similar to hand-knitting. I personally love those large stitches. Makes me instantly feel warm and cozy. The thicker yarn when knitted on loose tension also make the knitted fabric very soft and moldable (not stiff as on some standard machines).
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Cons:
– Larger than other machines, including some other bulky models. It is also heavier.
– Expensive as they are highly desirable.
– carriage levers prone to sticking, especially when not in use for a long time. This might result in improper needle selection. But can be done with regular maintenance/care.
– requires more weights than other machines very likely because of heavier yarns.
– tuck brushes need to be installed. Some machines (mostly standard) already have built-in tuck-brushes on sinker plate. This is not really a con but just one more thing to keep track of and not to misplace.
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Overall, machine knitters all over the world call Brother KH 260 a working horse. And I am in complete agreement!!






Preface: If I had to describe this machine with just one word – it would be FLAWLESS!!!
prepare for the needle selection and then rotate the knob (using the wrench) to select the corresponding needles. It is an excellent machine for beginning knitters. I feel that it would be also great for people who are not quite yet ready to give up hand-knitting but want to have more even stitches and a bit faster progress…. Brother KH551 is also lighter than other machines mostly because its bed is narrower. The carriage is also significantly lighter and I could easily move it with just one hand.
uneven stitch which is amazing considering no additional weights and a rather difficult (with specs and boucle) yarn.
machine also makes it easier to store when not in use. I like the three-thread tension mast and a yarn clip in from of the tension mast rod. I love the three-horned tension section of the mast (not just a triangle) where each color of yarn can be inserted individually. However, the tension on the second and middle tension disk only has two settings (although they might depend on the very right one).
l), you can just make a similarly shaped hanger out of a heavy-duty paper clip). On other machines, when I knitted multicolor slip- and tuck-patterns, I was just leaving the thread on the side of the machine to keep it out of the way…Regardless of the technique you chose, the absence of this part does not affect the machine’s functioning and you can still do a LOT of various things with it using a variety of techniques.



mind when you try the patterns from the manual and they are not working.
A little bit more about potential typos in the manual. I tried at least a dozen of times to knit the patterns on p. 33: a purl-like stitch on the left and another one on the right. The purl-like was either dropping stitches on the whole swatch or was tangling the yarn so bad that I had to start all over again multiple times…I do not exclude a complete operator failure….But: when I started reviewing the pattern on the right-hand side (the anonymous one on p. 33), I noticed some inconsistencies. I was still able to knit it but the pattern did not look like in the manual: see the picture below (the very top swatch) of what I got and compare it to the manual – two big differences. Well, at least the swatch did not fall off the bed like in the case of the “purl-like” pattern attempt. But that pattern (on the right-hand side in the manual) definitely had typos: Look at the schematics: it shows TUCK but the description writes PART. I vaguely remember seeing an addendum to one of the manuals of the machines I refurbished last year… Maybe the purrlike stitch pattern on the left also had typos/errors and this is why I could not figure it out… But I successfully knitted herringbone (not shown in my video – sorry), seed stitch A, seed stitch B (pics below and on a video), and diamond design (pattern I in the book on p28)….I then knitted these patterns on the whole bed and converted what I got into a hood/neck warmer/cowl…
Studio (also known as Singer, Silver Reed and Elna) machines are great machines to have for beginners or advanced knitters…They offer a lot of versatility. So far, I had a simple (without any automatic patterning with the exception of manual needle selection) and punch-card Studio machines. Studio 360K appeared on the market in 1980-1982. They are equipped with a 24-stitch patterning mechanism transferred to the needles using the punch-card reader.
The carriage was somewhat more sensitive to the combination of yarn and tension than the other machines I refurbished. If possible, I would recommend using new sport weight yarn, wound into cakes, and taking the yarn from the middle of the cake while knitting.








Say hello to my freshly refurbished and tested Brother KH930 knitting machine. It was made in Japan in 1986 and is a standard machine with 200 needles. Standard means that the gauge is 4.5 mm (the gauge is the distance between needles). The needle bed is metal. This and the electronic components make this machine pretty heavy.
Pros:

A convenient holder for tools is located to the very left of the electronic display:


For example, a friend sent me a pattern for a blanket. The file was 200 stitches by 270 rows. Because 930 has limited memory, such a large file DAK can only be uploaded into the 930 in 66-row sections. So, 5 sections total. So, I first knitted 5 rows of stockinet (which is always recommended), then patterned the device and knitted the first section. The machine beeped and flashed 66 when my carriage was on the left. All needles were selected. While the carriage was on the left, I uploaded another pattern. Then I programmed the pattern and then knitted the last row of the previous section (where all the needles were still selected).
While testing this machine, I manually entered two patterns (W and S for a vest for my son’s teddy bear) into the machine’s memory and used them to knit a vest. I successfully loaded a pattern from a disk (through FB100) and I also transferred a pattern through a direct link cable (from DAK) and knitted a book cover for my son with his initials.
My ultimate goal is to learn about knitting machines as much as possible. Out of all machines I tested so far, which is only 12 (which includes Singer/Studio/Silver reed punch card machines, Brother manual and Brother push-button machines), this is by far my favorite. Luckily, I have three more of these machines and one is definitely going to live in my machine knitting garage!!! I hope you will think the same!!







It comes with all accessories including (numbers are going in the order as they are listed in the 
in the box.
Some Singer/Studio machines have metallic end rails but this one had separate rubber ones. They typically tend to decompose due to time and fall off. So, initially, these rubber end-rails were still present but while I was using the machine they fell off since they already showed a lot of cracking and deterioration.
These end rails are also not very critical pieces and the machine will work fine without them. They are important when knitting on all 200 needles. But even in this case, if you slow down the carriage on the last 10-20 needles and don’t let the carriage slide too far, you will be ok. These end rails are needed to prevent drums from mispatterning if the carriage is moved too far from the bed.
And last, but not least, pros and cons: