Brother KH551 tested and cleaned in September 2022

Preface: If I had to describe this machine with just one word – it would be FLAWLESS!!!

But, first, a little bit of history. Brother KH551 knitting machines were introduced to the market in the 1960s and were the first machine with somewhat semi-automatic patterning capabilities. In this machine, there are 4 buttons, that you push to prepare for the needle selection and then rotate the knob (using the wrench) to select the corresponding needles. It is an excellent machine for beginning knitters. I feel that it would be also great for people who are not quite yet ready to give up hand-knitting but want to have more even stitches and a bit faster progress…. Brother KH551 is also lighter than other machines mostly because its bed is narrower. The carriage is also significantly lighter and I could easily move it with just one hand.

The machine comes with heavy-duty cast-on combs that eliminate the need for any other weights. As you can see from my video, I did not attach any additional weights and had only one small problem with an uneven stitch which is amazing considering no additional weights and a rather difficult (with specs and boucle) yarn.

Not the whole machine is light, but the carriage is also light and small and is ideal for somebody with small hands and not a lot of upper body strength. Its lightweight makes it pretty portable, compared to other machines. The machine is capable of plain old knitting with hand manipulations of the needles. But also is capable of semi-automatic needle selection. The petiteness of the machine also makes it easier to store when not in use. I like the three-thread tension mast and a yarn clip in from of the tension mast rod. I love the three-horned tension section of the mast (not just a triangle) where each color of yarn can be inserted individually. However, the tension on the second and middle tension disk only has two settings (although they might depend on the very right one).

One feature of this model that I have not observed in others: There is some kind of protective lever at the end of the bed because the machine does not slide very easily from the end of the bed. One has to work really hard to “accidentally” pull it off the machine. In the video, you will see me seemingly struggling with the carriage towards the bed’s end (when knitting on a full bed only). But the knitting itself did not struggle: I believe it was just that protective mechanism in action.

The setup includes all major accessories. A couple of minor things are missing:

  • Sinker plate yarn hanger. The machine came with only one. However, when or if or both you decide to knit using the plating technique (see p. 18-19 in the manual), you can just make a similarly shaped hanger out of a heavy-duty paper clip). On other machines, when I knitted multicolor slip- and tuck-patterns, I was just leaving the thread on the side of the machine to keep it out of the way…Regardless of the technique you chose, the absence of this part does not affect the machine’s functioning and you can still do a LOT of various things with it using a variety of techniques.
  • I did not want to include the old container with oil because I did not want to risk putting such old oil onto this machine. I recommend getting a Hoppe’s gun oil (this is what I used to clean the needles and lightly oil the machine) and oil only lightly on the parts mentioned in the manual.

This machine comes with two brochures: a hard copy of the manual (which is in great shape) and a knitter’s guide (which contains techniques, a bunch of how-tos advice, and a couple of examples on garment knitting). I used this brochure when I knitted my sweater last year (using another KH551). The manual is also available online but the scanned copy is not of great quality.

I tested this machine and other KH551 and I was very pleasantly surprised by how well it handles potentially challenging yarns. This machine handled boucle yarn without any problems. In fact, I did not even have to restart the knitting of this shawl. Check out a pretty pathetic attempt of me modeling it below. I later added decorative edging to the shawl. I found a yarn that matched the color of the tiny yarn specs (boucle), made a cord out of it, and then attached it to the edges. I actually like how it turned out. Light yet warm garments are the most favorite types of garments for my constantly-cold petite body.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A couple of other things I liked about KH551: Love the small container for tools. I like that it is so easy to remove and position onto the bed. I also love a special container that stores all the tools when not in use. The table clips are somewhat different than the younger models. It is first screwed onto the case and then onto the table.

I removed all the needles, cleaned them and inspected them all individually. I then knitted on a full bed machine, which helps me to identify faulty needles even more: when there is a propagating error or a flaw in the knitting that appears in the same place, it is definitely due to faulty needles.

A couple of disclaimers about this machine. The case (lid and the bottom part) has several very small dents (hey – it is over 50 years old after all! It is like us having age spots and wrinkles). The table clamp attachments (on the bottom portion of the case) were rusty and I cleaned them and painted those areas with rustoleum to slow down or even prevent further rusting to extend the life of this wonderful machine. It appeared to be the only place, where I observed rust on the main bed. There is some rust on the lid – at the ends where the metal ends touch the cover panel.

I replaced the sponge bar and cleaned the machine, carriage and sinker plate from dust/lint.

The row counter is easy to operate: also shows how many rows remained and how many rows are current. The numbers do not jump uncontrollably as in a couple of other machines I tested when you are trying to re-zero the ones- or tens positions. Basically, the numbers do not slip when you turn the wrong way. This type of row counter is actually my most favorite out of all other machines I tested.

To summarize, below are the lists of pros and cons for the Brother KH551:

Pros:

+ Carriage is very light and slides very easily

+ The bed is narrower than other machines – which makes it more compact

+ …and makes the machine lighter than other similar models

+ relatively easy deep cleaning – all parts are solid and straightforward to insert/assemble/disassemble

+ The needle count is engraved on the bed – so these slippery and constantly in-the-way paper liners showing the needle count won’t annoy you by constantly sliding and getting lost.

+ Threading the yarn is a bit more intuitive and straightforward in my opinion

+ built-in capabilities for 3 different yarns

+ the hard case is a combination of fake leather and plastic, which makes it not only look neater and nicer than other machines but also made durable. The case shows absolutely no discoloration despite the age of this machine.

Cons:

  • The push-button mechanism helps to select the needles but you need to change the needles selected quite often (basically turn the ratchet tool to SET and OFF). It might be tedious and you need to keep track of the correct order. When I tested this machine, I got into this zen-like rhythm that helped no prevent mistakes…
  • Some might find the machine too simple – yes, it has only limited patterning capabilities. However, with manual needle selection and yarn manipulation, the possibilities are endless.
  • I discovered some typos in the manual when I was testing the patterns. I vaguely remember that I’ve seen an addendum to correct the errors but I cannot find it now. Maybe it was for another machine… Just keep it in mind when you try the patterns from the manual and they are not working.

A little bit more about potential typos in the manual. I tried at least a dozen of times to knit the patterns on p. 33: a purl-like stitch on the left and another one on the right. The purl-like was either dropping stitches on the whole swatch or was tangling the yarn so bad that I had to start all over again multiple times…I do not exclude a complete operator failure….But: when I started reviewing the pattern on the right-hand side (the anonymous one on p. 33), I noticed some inconsistencies. I was still able to knit it but the pattern did not look like in the manual: see the picture below (the very top swatch) of what I got and compare it to the manual – two big differences. Well, at least the swatch did not fall off the bed like in the case of the “purl-like” pattern attempt. But that pattern (on the right-hand side in the manual) definitely had typos: Look at the schematics: it shows TUCK but the description writes PART. I vaguely remember seeing an addendum to one of the manuals of the machines I refurbished last year… Maybe the purrlike stitch pattern on the left also had typos/errors and this is why I could not figure it out… But I successfully knitted herringbone (not shown in my video – sorry), seed stitch A, seed stitch B (pics below and on a video), and diamond design (pattern I in the book on p28)….I then knitted these patterns on the whole bed and converted what I got into a hood/neck warmer/cowl…

Not much else to say about this machine left, other than it was an extremely pleasant experience working on it. Indeed, now, after failed attempts to knit a “purl-like” pattern, I want to go back and experiment with all possible knob and lever combinations to see what other UNKNOW YET patterns I will come up with.

360 for Laura, cleaned in August 2022

Studio (also known as Singer, Silver Reed and Elna) machines are great machines to have for beginners or advanced knitters…They offer a lot of versatility. So far, I had a simple (without any automatic patterning with the exception of manual needle selection) and punch-card Studio machines. Studio 360K appeared on the market in 1980-1982. They are equipped with a 24-stitch patterning mechanism transferred to the needles using the punch-card reader.

The hero of this blog, Studio 360K, has 200 needles. The distance between needles (which is also called a gauge) is 4.5 mm, which is considered a “standard”. The best yarn for this machine is sports weight. Thicker yarns can be kitted on every-other needle.

This particular Studio 360K knitting machine came to me in a pretty decent shape so no major disassembling was required. There was no rust. I removed dust/dirt using a brush from under the bed (I did not disassemble it). I removed all needles and polished them as there was a tiny bit of rust on them where a bad (decomposed) sponge bar was touching them (it is pretty typical for old neglected machines). However, all the needles were inspected individually and I tested them by knitting on a full bed using different techniques. The short answer is – everything looked good. For more justification/information on how I judge it – refer to the youtube video made for this machine. The sponge bar was replaced at the beginning of August 2022. It was only used to test this machine (made three cowls on it – see below).

The carriage was somewhat more sensitive to the combination of yarn and tension than the other machines I refurbished. If possible, I would recommend using new sport weight yarn, wound into cakes, and taking the yarn from the middle of the cake while knitting.

The machine came with no end rails. This is a typical problem for most Studio/Singer machines. These end-rails are rubber, which decomposes with time. Some Singer/Studio machines have metallic end rails but this one had separate rubber ones. They typically tend to decompose due to time and fall off. So, initially, these rubber end-rails were still present but while I was using the machine they fell off since they already showed a lot of cracking and deterioration. These end rails are also not very critical pieces and the machine will work fine without them. They are important when knitting on all 200 needles. But even in this case, if you slow down the carriage on the last 10-20 needles and don’t let the carriage slide too far, you will be ok. These end rails are needed to prevent drums from mis-patterning if the carriage is moved too far from the bed.

I typically do not include end-rails with my refurbished machines because most knitters do not use the full bed – only some needles in the middle. However, I felt that because this machine is sensitive to tension, it could be relatively easy for a new knitter to accidentally slide the machine from the bed. So, I installed the new Installed end rails. The carriage without them did not run as smoothly. FYI: if these decompose and fall again, the new ones simply snap on but the lid needs to be removed. Contact me if you need help with that.

BEFORE:                                                  AFTER:

I did not extensively test the knit leaders because I do all my calculations myself. But all buttons turn freely and the paper advances as the carriage moves back and forth. The video shows this as well.

The machine came to me without the original punch cards. I purchased a set so this machine has all accessories. Some of the punch cards correspond to the original set and some are different (more exciting, in my opinion).

The machine also DID not come with a hard copy of the manual but it can be found here (totally free). This and this brochures are also typically included with the package for 360K. they cover some knitting techniques as well as garment shaping. I found them very useful when I knitted my sweater last year.

All the tools are present, including replacement needles. If more are needed, I recommend purchasing the replacement needles here. Only one set of unraveling cord, card snaps, point cam, and yarn separators are included. The yarn separators and point cams are needed to knit 2 single motifs. To be honest, a single motif on punchcard machines requires a lot of skills. So, by the time the user decided to knit two single motifs (where two sets of these are needed), this knitter would be considered advanced and will either know where to get these parts or will switch to an electronic machine (single motif on electronic machines is so easy!!!). The carriage lock (accessory number 2) was not supplied with the original setup. So, I ordered a 3D printed one specifically for this machine. The card guide was also missing (accessory number 18). But I included a large knitting needle that I used while testing this setup.

This carriage runs on the bed a bit tighter than my other 360k. It is also very sensitive to tension. Make sure the yarn flows really REALLY smoothly and that the cake/bobbin/cone is right underneath the tension mast.

The machine has several cosmetic imperfections. They are:

  1. The discoloration on the carriage. It is not affecting its function. Probably a previous owner attached a sticker to it and the plastic around it became darker with time.
  2. Shipped end by the end rail. It also does not affect the functioning of the machine.
  3. A couple of scoff marks on the knit leader card advancing mechanism.

I also replaced the two front top panels (they are slightly lighter than the middle one – see the last picture above). They were severely cracked and needed to be totally replaced.

To learn about the general pros and cons of Studio/Singer 360K, please, refer to my previous post.

When I test machines, I really like to knit something in the process. So, I am making these wide pieces of knitted fabric, which I then convert to cows/hoods/neck warmers. Below are the cowls that I made while testing this machine:

You can see me making these in this video (no instructions though – yet!)

All these are going to charity to support the Happy Hats Maryland project to supply 1000 hats and scarves to those in need in my county.

Happy knitting with this machine!!